Gary Lewis

Congratulations?!?! (I'm not sure what is appropriate there.) Someone got a good truck, but now you can move on. I'm anxious to see what you do.

Thanks, Chris. I'm not 100% sure I'll re-jet, but I want the option and I want to be prepared with the jets and rods handy. And right now I don't have the option as the DS jet will not come out. I soaked it in PB Blaster over night and used a screwdriver bit that was a really good fit. But when I hit it with the small 12v drive impact the driver walked out and made ramps out of the screw slots. So I've tried to call Bill to see what he recommends, but my calls aren't going through. Someone seems to answer but If I really want it out I think a left-handed screw extractor is the only way to do it, but that will ruin the jet and until it comes out the carb is toast. So one idea is to leave it. On the other hand, this is Brandon/Bruno2's carb, so I feel obligated to get the jet out or buy the carb from him as he is highly likely to need to swap jets if/when he wants to use it.

Morp - Glad you joined. However it looks like you missed the email from us asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself in a new thread there. That's important because we hold everyone to the guidelines. But many people miss the email so that's not unusual. So please assure me you've read the guidelines and then we can talk about the connector.

Ok guys, thanks for the input. I'm hoping others will chime in as well, so will hold my comments for a bit.

Yes, I was wondering where he's from as well, but he did say Latvia. I think I'm glad he passed on the Bullnose. It is too pretty to beat up. Yes, it has been in some accidents. Yes, it has some miles on it. And yes, the tailgate straps were painted red. But it is pretty. However, there may have been a ton of body putty in it.

I'm missing something. I don't see Cleveland mentioned. Maybe they took it out? Otherwise, that's a lot of truck for $1300. However, it says "needs tranny" and if I can't drive it I'll pay something like $500 max.

Good thoughts, Bob. Thanks. My brother and I talked about how to get there and opted for stopping in Pueblo for the first night. That's 10 hours for me and 588 miles, so if I leave at 8 AM, pick up my brother in Kansas, and stop another time or two we should get in around 6 PM there due to the time change. Since Pueblo is at 4700' that will help get us start getting acclimated to the altitude. Next morning, say at 8 AM, we'll leave and should make Ouray around 3 PM. And I thought I'd re-jet then, which shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes, so assume an hour. But since I'm getting prepared it shouldn't be that big of a deal. Hopefully those two stages will get us used to the altitude. But, taking meds with us just in case is the idea. As for hydration, I've just added to the list a little ice chest so we can take drinks, if not our lunches, with us. We'll take plenty of water from here and drink it as we go. Thanks for the reminder. And that's a good idea about jetting for the lowest altitude we'll be at, which looks to be Ouray's 7800 since both Telluride and Silverton are higher. That's basically that "5" on the list above, and I think I have the .107" jets and probably have the .073 x .047" rods. However, I have .073 x .042" rods in now, so even if I don't have the other rods these should do for 4 days. It'll just be a little richer when the vacuum goes low and the rods pop up, but as you said, better to be rich than lean.

I'm not thinking of it as sealant, but more as lubricant. It is for dissimilar metals and these brass jets sure didn't want to come out of that aluminum carb. So when I get them out I was wondering about using something that would help remove them in the future.

Looks great! They did you a good job!

I don't think float level would cause a dry bowl unless the level was very, very low. There will always be some evaporation, but not a lot. If your paper towel test doesn't show it leaking on the outside of the intake manifold then I suggest you park it with the throttle propped open so you can pull the air cleaner and look down the throat the next morning. Look to see if the bottom of the intake manifold is wet, like it has been leaking into the intake. If you don't prop the throttle open the accelerator pump will squirt fuel into the intake when you open the throttle so you can see down the throat.

Glad to see that.

Ok, I'll be careful with PBB. I'll wipe it out in the morn, hopefully after getting the jet out. And then clean it with brake cleaner. Another question: What do you think of using a dab of Loctite 56747 PST on the jet's threads? On what elevation to jet for, we will be doing a number of passes on trails. For instance, Ophir pass is at 11,789'. Black Bear is at 12,840. And Imogene is at 13,114. So while we won't be rock crawling, we'll be "up there" many times.

Yes, I'm sure he will. (The title of that smiley is "Thinking", but it looks like rolling your eyes to me. ) I do have a small impact. And I'm sure I have a screwdriver bit that will fit the jets, which will be 1/4" drive. So that would work nicely. But I'm short on MMO so will use PBB. I think I'll go back out, mop out the gas in the bowl, and give it some PBB to penetrate tonight. Maybe it'll come out with the impact tomorrow. Thanks.

Jim - I think you underestimate me. I used to be every bit of 6', but with a wingspan approaching that of Michael Phelps. I'm sure I'm a bit shorter than I used to be, but I can still clean the windshield by standing on the step bars. As for the "back gate", which I think of as the rear bumper with a spare tire carrier, yes it certainly would be handy. Maybe next year. And having gotten a lot of the "to take" stuff nailed down I'm now working on the tuning for Big Blue. And I'm going to tag Bill with this, not because he's the only one that knows, but since he did this for a living... My first question is how to get a stuck main jet out of an AFB? I have a screwdriver that is a perfect fit and I got the PS jet out, but the DS jet isn't moving. I'm sure the answer is going to be to use a screw extractor w/a left hand thread, but that means I'm buying a new .110" jet. Anyone have any tricks? Next is the jetting I want to use. We are at about 800' of elevation here in Skiatook, but Ouray is at 7,800 and we'll be going over Red Mountain Pass which is 11,000'. Edelbrock's tuning guide says to 'use the rule of: “2% leaner per 1500 feet”', so maybe I should jet for 8,300' (5*1500 = 7500, and add 800 = 8300). That would mean I'd want to be about 10% leaner than what I have. Or should I go for 10,000'? The chart below is out of the tuning guide and shows: green = current jetting; blue = proposed jetting of ~10% leaner; red = 12% leaner, which would be about right for 10,000 feet. Then I have to think through what jetting I have or can buy. You can see at the bottom of the snag above it says "jet and rod combinations shown on the following page". Here's that page, with the colors being the same: green = current jetting; blue for 8,300 feet, and red for 10,000 feet. Thoughts, y'all?

Ok guys, time for an update. (Not playing on the TEST forum as much today.) Got an email back from one of my nephews, who has done a lot of offroading on his RZR as well as spent time around Ouray. His suggestions in addition to things I already had were: Tire Repair: BLACK JACK TIRE REPAIR Truck Repair Kit w/ 35 Rep. His brother, who has done similar offroading, suggested that kit and it has worked extremely well for both of them. Wire Connectors: Wago 222-413 LEVER-NUTS 3 Conductor Compact Connectors 10 PK. He's used them on everything from little bitty stranded stuff to solid wire and loves them. So for $6.15 I thought I'd give them a try. Window Cleaner: Said the windshield will get dirty, so I'll stick some in as well as some white paper towels. Cargo Bar: Said that HF has a good one that allows you to secure a tote, gas can, etc. Not sure which one he had in mind but I'm checking into it. This one appears to be kind of long. Altitude Meds: Said he got sick in Lake City on his recent trip, so I guess I'd better either get some meds or stay out of Lake City? Marker: An antenna or some such on a magnet to put on the front bumper, allowing you to see where it is. Makes getting into tight places a lot easier. Gorilla Tape: I have some and will put it in.

The photo compressing required makes it hard to see details. But they were moist and glistening. I got so much Dot 3 everywhere that I had a hard time keeping it off the paint. Jonathan - Why don't we make it a writeup on a new tab, as shown below, on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes? You give me the words, or I take them from this thread, as well as the pics and I'll build the writeup.

Sports fans, I need you to help me think through the issue of whether to stick with just providing Ford part numbers in the documentation or to also include vendor part numbers. This morning Randy/rcarlisle said this that is so accurate: So while we could stick to just listing Ford part numbers, that's not terribly helpful as in many cases those parts are no longer available. In that case maybe we should include vendor part numbers? However, therein lies a problem as the vendor part numbers aren't always correct, and they may change them on us so we could be giving bad advice. As an example, and what brought this up, let's take body/cab bushings. If you go to our page on Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Body Mounts and then go to the Cab Mounts tab you'll see that I used a snippet from the LMC catalog to show the mounts, hardware, etc. However, that catalog is wrong. (If you want to read up on that look at these search results which show three threads where the problem is explained.) So I'm now faced with modifying that page. In fact, I've even had a request from a non-member to change our documentation because LMC's part number is wrong. So I'm thinking through the best approach here and am coming up with only these three: Ford Only: Include only Ford part numbers, even though those items are getting fewer and fewer in number and soon will be no longer available. But in this scenario I'd delete the snippet of the LMC catalog and have to figure out what to put in its place. Both Ford & Some Aftermarket: This would be like I did on the cab bushings where I provide both the Ford #'s and some info from aftermarket, like LMC. But then I have bad info when the vendor is wrong, and LMC's #'s are wrong and they haven't fixed it in years after having been told of the problem. So I'd have to mark up their catalog to show the right part number. Seems doable and more helpful than the Ford-Only approach. Ford PN's with Aftermarket Cross Ref: This would be the ultimate. A table with all the Ford numbers and along side them the known aftermarket numbers. But that is a HUGE undertaking so I'd have to have several someone's step up to own that responsibility as it is NOT something I can undertake on my own. So, am I missing any other scenarios? What's the best approach for us? Anyone want to step up and help with this? Please?

Yes, I'm jaded. Biased even. But I have seen power valves leak out of the carb on the 2150. That takes two failures, but I've seen it. First the power valve fails, and second the gasket to the power valve cover fails. Or, for the few trucks with external vacuum to the power valve, the vacuum hose fails. So, I admit it is rare but it can happen. More likely is the accelerator pump. I've seen lots of those leaking on these carbs. Dad's truck did it frequently as the screws seemed to loosen on the cover. Anyway, I agree that placing a paper towel under the bowl is a good idea. I use the blue paper towels for that because getting hit with fuel usually leaves a stain even if it dries. Harder to tell on the white ones.

No, the check valve in the pump shouldn't suck the fuel out of the carb. The carb's bowl is vented so there's no way for it to draw a vacuum and suck the fuel back. But it isn't unusual for the filter to be dry after sitting a day or so. However, the engine should start on the gas in the bowl and the pump will then fill the filter and bowl. So I think the carb is leaking. And the 2150 has an accelerator pump and power valve with fabric in them, so they can leak. Has the engine backfired even once? If so that can easily blow the power valve.

Yes, it is nice! Let's preserve some of the pics and then record what it sells for. Hagerty says it is worth $20,500 in Good condition, and this one appears to be.

Nice! But I wonder how bad that rust really is?

I would contact thisoldpart, a member on here, and see if he could make what you need. See this thread for what he's doing and for a way to contact him.

Yes, there's no joy working on the blend door in the truck. Even when you are done your hands will be bleeding. But, several years later my hands have healed and the door still works, so there's hope. As for the cracks in the dash, are they visible? If not, can you reinforce them? I fear you may find the ones at the breakers cracked as well.

Good luck, Shaun, and be careful!

If you have a 1/4" drive ratchet use it as it has a lot less leverage than larger ones. And just snug them up pretty snug. I don't know how else to describe it.