Gary Lewis

Black/White is used here: Power in Ckt 526 from Fuse Link P to trailer lamps Power from Fuse 12 in Ckt 171 to power door locks and mirrors Ckt 359 which connects the TPS, EJP, MAP, ECT, Air Charge Temp Sensor, & Knock Sensor to pin 46 on the ECU Power to the windshield washer pump via Ckt 941 from the wiper switch

Yes, we have similar problems. It is due to our "global economy". But the problems in Europe are different than in the US in that many of our benefits, like social security, are held at a national level. But in Europe yours are done on a country by country basis. Anyway, retirement is GOOD! I highly recommend it. And you'll soon wonder how you got anything done outside of your job. On the motor, I can see that tape would work.

Excellent! And Jim is right, what wire colors are in the other plug?

David - Two things. First, you can "tag" me by assigning the issue to me and I'll get a special email telling me that you want me to work it. Second, answering your question isn't easy as there were four different "cooling" options. So here is the info and Jerry will have to form his own conclusion. Jerry - You don't have any info in a signature to tell the rest of us what you have, so it is difficult to help you. But in this case you can either measure your existing shroud to see if it matches the dimensions below, or look on it and see if it says "E0TA-AA or E2TA-RA. Those are the Identification #'s that could be on shroud E2TZ 8146-C.

You can see what the Master Parts Catalog thinks should be in your truck here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/fuel-tanks.html

Bill - That does look like a major pain. And apparently one that many people are going to experience. I talked to my engineer/mechanic nephew about this yesterday and he said he is seeing a lot of it. Apparently the plastic is getting old enough to come apart easily, so it is a question of when not if. John - You've come to the same conclusion I have - no way I'm going to put a tranny pan back on w/o a drain in it. I do NOT like the messes I've made. And that Summit plan looks great. Good plan, Stan. Angelo - That's a great drivetrain. I think you've made a good choice. I'm anxious to see how it comes together.

What I did was I did searches for different types there is a shooting first aid kit with supplies for treating gun shot wounds for example. Something like that I would like in my case to keep in the truck but they dont cover the basics just gunshot wounds. Then there are some that I found that treats just minor cuts and wounds. Then there are some marketed as surgical that comes with more gear for slicing to remove foreign objects for example as well as hemostats and supplies for stitches. For me I was looking at adding a little from the surgical kit such as the supplies for doing stitches, the entire gunshot wound kit I would add, then your basic bandage kit and I am thinking about if I need to throw in some other supplies such as a snake bite kit, tourniquet kit, etc. It is a balancing at in my eyes where you have to think about what will you have a good chance of using. If you dont know how to do surgery well then a surgical first aid kit would be pointless for you. If you arent around guns and not in an area that has a high number of gun ownership well then the gunshot wound first aid kit would be something you wouldnt need either. Rusty - The question of what I'll run into is one I hadn't really thought enough about. For instance, I didn't consider snake bites, but if you are going out in the woods you may well get bitten. And splinters are a given if you are handling wood for a fire so you'd better have good tweezers. Plus, burns are likely if you have a fire. That suggests I need to pay more attention to what's in the kits. And I may need to customize even a fairly complete kit as I don't remember seeing one with snake-bite provisions. But, with a teeny bit of reading here (HOW TO SURVIVE A SNAKEBITE IN THE WILDERNESS) it looks like it may be more about procedure than equipment. But the information in that article would certainly be helpful in or with the kit. So, this will take a bit more thought. Maybe research each type of problem a bit and determine what is needed in the FAK for that. And if it is more info that "stuff" print the info and put it in the kit and/or the 3-ring binder that's under the seat.

The EU changed a whole bunch of things in Europe. We traveled there both before and after and noticed a lot of change, but I'm sure you see many, many more. As for retirement, what are your plans? What will you do? Travel? Fix Fords? The seat covers look good. And the use of a shock absorber grommet was ingenious. Well done! But taking the door lock motor apart and fixing it was amazing. By cutting right where you did you were able to get the shell back on? How do you hold it on? You are wise to use the original door lock motors. I ordered some from Amazon and they had so little power that they wouldn't operate the mechanism. So I used the old motors with the new skirts to protect them.

In your case it looks like the A/C belt has to come off before you can remove and replace the alternator belt. But both A/C compressor and alternator appear to swivel to tension the belt. Can't tell from the pics, but some provide a square opening into which a breakover can go to provide the leverage to get the belt tight. Otherwise you'll have to use a pry bar.

Have you thought about piecing your own kit together? Some places online sell empty bags that you can then fill with your own supplies to custom tailor it to what you think youll need and you can also make sure they are the freshest supplies with the longest expiration date. Im looking at doing this myself as I find myself wanting my first aid kit for my truck to have pieces from three different premade kits and decided it would be easier to just piece it together myself. This is one of the sites I am looking at myself off and on for empty first aid bags to use as a base for my build. https://gearbags.com/product-category/medical/page/1/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9O6HBhCrARIsADx5qCT4_Z5kMFs1a2pUOWvy0PAizNecjE6iXSCQWO-mFhD6msPKLv-QyQkaAjZtEALw_wcB Dave/Rusty - I have thought about piecing a first aid kit together. But I don't really know what I need in one, so have come to the conclusion that I need to rely on others to tell me what I ought to have. But it appears there are several levels of what I would call a "first aid kit". Scott/Kramttocs and I attended a seminar on trauma at the overland rally a couple of months ago hosted by an outfit called Switchbacksafety.com. They tout what turns out to be a "trauma" kit for overlanding that goes far beyond anything I was expecting in a first aid kit, and their reasoning is that if you are in the back of beyond your chances of getting medical treatment soon are nil, so you'd better take it with you. So where do I draw the line? What do I need? I don't know. But it appears to be more than a few Bandaids and aspirin. Maybe I need to do a comparison of some of the ones I'm looking at to see what they are including?

Shaun - Thanks. Dave - I didn't explain very well. The link I'm talking about it when you highlight a word or phrase, click Link, then are given a pop-up menu where you paste the link into a field. Once you hit Go the word or phrase is a hot-link to that URL, like Shaun did. What I think you did is just to past the URL into the post. And my Chrome still won't do it but Edge and Firefox will.

Not sure whey you think there isn't a Pg 37 of the parts lists, because if I go to Documentation/CALIBRATION INFO & PART #'S and then the Parts Lists tab I find the page below. What am I missing?

Getting it ready is a good idea. And having the stereo and amp on the aux battery makes sense. Las Cruces. Been through there a few times but don’t remember much about it. What I do remember is taking NM26 in our 72 F250 to bypass Las Cruces and having the engine die. No one around and it was getting dark. Long story short, it was the add-on solid-state ignition. But I didn’t figure that out until I’d disassembled the QJet.

Morning, Chris. I doubt you hurt your alternator. I say that because I did something similar and didn't hurt my alternator. I mounted my starter relay too close to the hood hinge and when I closed the hood fire and smoke ensued. I melted a #10 wire totally and completely. But the alternator was fine.

Dave is right, asking in the main section is a better option. But I'll respond here with what little I know. And the answer on the tranny mount is "I don't know". I've not gone looking for those nor had to replace one. Sorry. On the aux battery, I use the EVTM's schematic, below, rather than the wiring diagram as it is lots easier to follow. And as you can see, the only things that the aux battery powers, as wired from the factory, are the body marker lights, trailer, and trailer lights. This was intended people who pull a camping trailer or carry a camper, and the idea was that you could drain the aux battery w/o compromising your ability to start the truck. But that's not to say that you can't rewire things. I have. I replaced the aux battery relay with a Cole Hersee Smart Isolator that lets me parallel the batteries from a switch in the cab. And I added #2 wiring from my power distribution box on the passenger's side to the aux battery relay so if I parallel the batteries the aux battery will participate in a big way in starting the truck. And my aux battery powers the 3000 watt inverter that's behind the seat as well as several 12v power ports that are back there. So, what part of NM?

I agree with Jim. But I'd add that not getting a spark when you turn the key off isn't a conclusive test. All of the modules I've played with did spark in that condition, but the EVTM doesn't list that as one of the tests so the engineers must not have thought it was a legit one.

As it turns out, I can post links using Edge or Firefox, but not Chrome. How 'bout the rest of you? Any problems?

Thanks, Shaun. I hadn't looked at Walmart, but it turns out they carry a number of the ones I've already looked at. Or brothers/sisters of them. For instance, they carry the Adventure Medical Kits Sportsman Series 200, which is the big brother of the Adventure First Aid Family Kit I listed above. At 7.50 x 5.50 x 5.50 Inches it'll fit, and at $39.99 and free delivery it might be a good option. And they carry the My Medic MyFAK, which I listed above, but for $110 instead of $120 as shown in that link, and it has free 2-day delivery. But at 4 in. x 6.75 in. x 7.75 in it is questionable as the 6.75 will have to squish a bit to 6.5". Anyway, thanks for the suggestion of Walmart awa the idea to find one with stuff that won't expire tomorrow. But I'm not sure how to do that if I'm ordering.

In '69 Janey and I drove a 50's VW van on vacation for several hundred miles. No spares, no nothing. The alternator light came on about halfway through the trip, but since we didn't use any lights as we were driving in the daytime I didn't worry about it. And we made it home. Anyway, if your truck is making 100 mile trips it'll probably make 300 miles. But, good luck!

I'm looking for a good first aid kit to put in Big Blue for overlanding. And the spot where I want to put it is in the behind-the-seat storage unit and is 6 1/2" high and 5 1/2" front/rear, but can be any width, side-to-side. Given that I think a soft bag rather than a hard case would be best. So I'm looking for recommendations if any of you are au fait with FAK's. Here are some I'm looking at, but I've not confirmed that they are the right size: (NB: I can't add a link.) Adventure First Aid Family Kit: https://fsastore.com/adventure-first-aid-family-kit/22911.html?utm_source=pepperjam&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_campaign=21181&clickId=3641626078 MyFAK: https://mymedic.com/products/myfak-firstaidkit?variant=19844419059808 Stormproof Universal First Aid Kit: https://mymedic.com/products/stormproof-universal-first-aid-kit?variant=32760344707168 EDIT: Links worked on Firefox.

I don't know why, but as of right now I cannot add a link to a post. If I click "Link" nothing happens. Anyone else have that problem?

I hope you got ethanol compatible hose. Not all hose is. I have a picture somewhere of what I buy at O'Reilly's, but I can't find it. Anyway, it says on it that it is compatible. With a few changes and checks I'd think your truck would be able to make 300 miles.

Been there, done that, several times. Which is why I think of it in these situations. Glad you found it.

Sounds like you found the problem and are getting the bugs worked out. Well done!

At up to 13 degrees it should keep responding better and better. But as Jim said, listen for a rattle on tip-in from cruise.