Gary Lewis

Just had a chance to test both the deflaters as well as the compressor. I put the Coyote deflators on and in ~5 minutes I was down to their settings. I checked with my two gauges and one showed 14 and the other showed 13 on all four tires, so I'm guessing that Coyote's 15 psi setting is accurate and my gauges are off a bit. Then I aired all four of them back up to 20 psi, which took 3 minutes and 15 seconds with the tank at 200 psi at the start. Then I aired them on up to 25 psi, and that took another 2 minutes and 35 seconds. In other words, it looks like it takes about 3 minutes for each 5 psi on all four tires at that low range, although as I think about it that first "5 psi" injection was probably from 15 to 21 psi since my gauge was reading 1 psi lower than Coyote's setting. But, I discovered that kneeling beside the tire and holding the inflator w/a gauge on wasn't all that much fun. So I put the clamp-on inflator on when I took them back up to 35 psi, and that is a whole lot better. Given that, I'm thinking at the end of the trail I'll give each tire a 2 minute shot of air. My math says that should bring the tires up to 28ish psi, which should be plenty for running around on the highway. And I won't have to even check the pressures but just time the shot. Is that reasonable? And, by the way, this is what the right front looked like at 15 psi. It is a bit lower than I expected, but I guess it is ok?

Try it now, please. I don't think that will fix it, but the scrolling was set to "no". I set it to "yes", but I don't think that's the same scrolling you are talking about. On my iPhone there is scrolling in the document, and there's scrolling on the website page. Just now I was not able to get to the bottom of the 2nd page on that document by placing my finger in the document. But it turned out I wasn't scrolled all the way to the bottom of the website page. Once I put my finger outside the document and scrolled I could get to the bottom.

Oh!!! It is the 2nd page of the document, not the spreadsheet. Does it do the same in landscape? I've had problems with my iPhone that way in the past, although it seems to be working well now. Let me poke around...

Jim - I didn't explain well. Let me try again. I click on the link in the email and get taken directly into the Nabble server and do my replies from there. But I keep many tabs open on my browser into the website, as you can see below, so I can get the documentation, links or pics, and then go back to the tab with the N to post. It is a pain, I know, but necessary insurance right now. As for the TSB's, I think you are saying that you are going to the TSB Index page (Documentation/TSB's/TSB Index) and then cannot scroll to the second page. Right? If so, I'll see if I can figure out what the issue is there. But, can you not see the next layer of the menu? You can go directly to the TSB via the categories, like Brakes/Steering/Suspension, which will get you to the TSB shown above.

The black ground wire’s tab just goes in one of the holes in the hub next to the nut.

You are apparently going directly into the Nabble server instead of going in via the embedded forum on the website. You should go here and probably keep a tab open to that 'cause the emails we get send us directly to the Nabble server and you'll never see the menu. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/

Jim - Maybe we have a bust in the way we are presenting TSB's. Can you not get to Documentation/TSB's/Brakes Steering & Suspension/96-15-11 FRAME - RIVET REPLACEMENT WITH BOLTS via the menu? I'm guessing that, assuming you can't, that it is because the TSB's page is clickable. If so I can fix that. Sorry, but let me know, please.

Sounds like a plan, Stan.

That Pantera looks wonderful! And if you aren't documenting the restoration elsewhere feel free to do so here. On the wire colors, the first few pages of the EVTMs provide the decoder ring, as shown below. So DG is dark green. But a word of caution: Prior to 1986 the wires had stripes, dots, and hash marks. In theory in 1986 Ford did away with the dots and hash marks in favor of stripes. BUT, 1985 was a transition year for sure as Big Blue has some stripes where he should have dots or hash marks, and others have reported the same. So I cannot say hand-on-heart that 1986 is all stripes. As for code reading, you don't need a reader, just a test light or an analog voltmeter. See the Code Reading tab at Documentation/Electrical/Electronic Engine Control (EEC) and then go to the EEC IV tab and then the Code Reading tab.

You are right, that stuff is expensive! But it sure looks good.

Michael - You are now on the map. I moved both you and Rob off the center of town a bit as you were on top of each other.

Wow, that Pantera sounds awesome! I'm not very au fait with them, but my friend Tim Meyer is making aluminum, and soon cast iron, Cleveland blocks and several of the aluminium ones have gone down your way for some of those, and other, cars. As for the solenoids, I suspect they are the TAB and TAD shown in the page from the 1985 EVTM below. And having done away with their source of air by removing the pump you obviously no longer need them. However, what I don't know is what happens when the ECU realizes they aren't there. I suspect it'll get its knickers in a twist and put you in limp-home mode, meaning lock the timing to base. I don't know what it takes to fool the ECU, but I'd bet an inductor/coil of the right value would suffice. Maybe even a resistor.

Jim - You didn't suggest Grade 8's can't be used. You said "Grade 5 does hold some advantage to grade 8" and I took that to mean that they can certainly be used. As for the variety and volume on here, there are a bunch of pages. Over 550 at last count and I've added more since then. And many of those pages have multiple tabs, many of which have documents on them. I would hesitate to guess how many documents we have, but surely in the high hundreds.I'm playing "librarian" connecting people with documentation. But there needs to be a better way.

That's a nice looking carb. And I've heard and read good things about the annular boosters. I'll bet you have a great experience. I'll stay tuned!

Jim is right that there's a TSB for creaking and popping which discusses using bolts to replace rivets. But there's a whole TSB on that subject as well called 96-15-11 FRAME - RIVET REPLACEMENT WITH BOLTS. You'll see that it is just as he said - drill and then ream to within .005" of the bolt size. And while they talk about using Grade 5 bolts, they do say "Grade 8 bolts may be substituted for any application."

Glad it is doing so well. But it sounds like change is in the offing. Good luck on the consolidation.

Good luck! Hope you find it, soon.

Michael - Welcome! Glad you joined. Can you be a bit more specific than “NW Georgia”? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member’s Map in the menu and we’d be happy to add you if we had a city or zip. Glad the truck is running again. And that sounds like a good score. But how about some pics?

Well done!

At this point we don't have any rules. Bring the tools on.

The Dorman site is NOT easy to use. I'm not finding anything on the carb inlet fix. https://www.dormanproducts.com/pages/resources/catalogs/dorman.aspx?origin=topnav

Thanks, Jim.

I can't answer your questions as I've not done that swap. But we do have the section of the Master Parts Catalog on the site that gives all of the dimensions for every truck from 1980 - 89. And the ZF5 was used in the late 80's. Go to Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts and then click the Application tab. Once you have the part number you can go to the Cross-Reference tab and find your driveshaft and its dimensions. One trick is to click the Full Screen button in the lower right of the window and it'll open that file in a new tab. And then you can use the search function to find the part number.

Yes if you use that fitting, but I don't know if it is the right one. But there may well be others available. Let me see if Jim knows the thread size.

Yes, you've probably stripped the carb. But I don't think you'll have to replace the carb. Dorman used to make a repair inlet fitting for that. I believe it had oversized threads and was self-tapping, meaning it cut new, deeper threads. Here's one such but I don't know that this is it: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-self-tapping-carburetor-fitting-1-in-inlet-55140/17190380-P. Someone like Jim or Bill will have to tell you what the inlet fitting size is.