Gary Lewis

Gary, how is this Delta Variant of Covid impacting the Skiatook area? Good question, David. And the easy answer is "badly" But that is a bit too easy. Skiatook's downtown is in Tulsa County while our house is in Osage County. So it is hard to get a good handle on what is happening in Skiatook since Tulsa swamps Tulsa County and Osage County has a very small population so one or two cases make a huge difference. But recently they've come up with a map that shows the # of cases per capita by zip code. And unfortunately our zip code, 74070, is in the 2nd-worst tier of zip codes. And, we are literally next door to one that is in the worst tier. That map also provides other information, including the percentage of people who've had the vaccine. Turns out that our zip code has a low percentage of those fully vaccinated - 20 to 30%. And again we are next door to one that only has 10 to 20% fully vaccinated. I say all of that to say that I'm getting very concerned about bringing people here for the show. In fact, I've set next Friday, meaning the 20th, to decide if I think we should have the show this year.

The 1G can’t keep up with headlights and A/C when idling.

If you're talking about the plug/pigtail for the windshield washer pump, LMC sells it. I have had one on my '84 for a couple years now. (I believe RockAuto has them as well in the electrical-connector section). Cory! You are right! Thanks! So, let me document this. Here's a link to Rock Auto's listings, which are: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S596 ACI 399001 ANCO 4823

YES! That's exactly what they are. They really worked.

Found this thread and thought I'd pass it on: Ultimate Mark VIII fan thread. In it they mention a DC Controls FK-85P controller. That's the manual on it, but here's a link to DC Controls. Their Fan Control page takes you to two options: Multi-Speed and Dual Fan Controllers and Accessories: Our relay based controllers take advantage of two speed motors utilized in various OEM cooling fans. Operation is identical to the Ford CCRM, but in a stand alone unit with a configurable temperature setting. Our 2-fan solid state controllers are designed to power the highest amperage dual fans. Constant Temperature Controllers and Accessories: Our constant temperature, full variable speed controllers have long been considered the best on the market. They can be utilized with virtually any cooling fan and employ pulse width modulation in order to set the fan to any speed in order to attain a constant temperature without cycling, regardless of driving conditions. This stuff is starting to get pricey!

If you had the A/C and lights on it is probably just because the alternator can't keep up. You are still running the original 1G, right?

Yippee!

This is for a 460 in an 80-82 E-series van. (The MPC is wrong here are the 460 didn't re-appear in an F-Series truck until '83.)

I put Monroes on Dad's truck and really liked them. They were self-adjusting, but Monroe-matics don't sound right and that's what they now list.

I'm doubting the radiator cap had anything to do with the fan issue, and I don't think you do either. Right? (Another reason I'm running a very stock radiator cap - I've not had good luck with "oddball" caps.) On the flaps, I think your plan is good - assuming that is what you finally decide to do. As for what to do, I know you have the two-fan cover (not really a shroud?) and another small fan coming. But I'm thinking the better approach is a Mark VIII fan and a factory shroud. I measured Big Blue's shroud's opening at ~22 1/2", so an 18" Mk VIII fan would be a sloppy fit in the opening. But there are plenty of factory shrouds for these trucks designed for an 18 or 18 1/2" fan. And I think they fit the same size radiator? The Mk VIII comes with its own shroud, but it is way too small for our radiators. So what about cutting that shroud and inserting it into a factory shroud with an 18" opening? Here's a Dorman fan from Amazon for similar vehicles and you can see what I'm thinking about.

I thought about doing exactly that, Pete. But since Big Blue is going in for A/C work and the reservoir might have to come off I decided I'd be better off finding the right connector, which I was able to do via another harness. But if you are looking for a pigtail to replace it I'm afraid you might be out of luck. I've cut the relevant pages from Ford's Wiring Pigtail Kits catalog and will embed them below. And the closest I see is WPT-826 in the upper right of Page 9, but it isn't quite right as it doesn't have the hump on one side. Might work, but how many do you really want? They are $37 at Amazon.

Nice truck. Bet it sells quickly.

Ok, missed that. Glad it sounds nice and quiet. You'll enjoy that on the drive to the show.

I believe this is THE unicorn. It is a '96 CA-spec with a mass air flow sensor and looks like a 460. And the 8th digit of the VIN is G, which was an EFI'd 460 in 87 - 89. There aren't many of these and some people doubt they existed, but there it is. And, it is a REALLY nice truck. But is worth $35K?

Well done, Larry. But a rubber hanger should help eliminate some noise. Still, that washer was ingenious. Let us know how it sounds?

Glad you got the squeal problem seemingly solved. If the Spal ones are too small and you don't find others I'd see about cutting some from inner tubes. Even bicycle tubes might work, although truck tubes would have a lot more meat in them as well as size. But I'm with Jim - I'm not seeing why the current setup won't work. Perhaps there are just too many blades? But won't the fans windmill when driving? Maybe spacing back would help?

Larry - My apologies. It has been corrected. I hope.

It is time to pick a logo for this forum & website which will then be turned into stickers to put on our trucks as well as shown at the top of the page on here. Please cast your vote below. The poll will be up for one week and you can change your vote at any point during that timeframe. The contributors are welcome to explain why they drew what they did. (And I hope I got the right drawings in, gentlemen! Please let me know if there are issues.) And the rest of us can give these gentlemen our thanks for spending so much time creating these drawings. However, as we prepare to vote here are some guidelines from this website which might help us decide which image we want to represent us. Simple: Simplicity is especially key when it comes to successful logo design. Memorable: You want the customer to be able to visually recall the shape, color, and words present on your logo. To do this, think about what resonates with your target market and then make it clever! Relevant: Including one or two visual elements that are exceptionally relevant to your target market communicates what your business is about and reminds them of what you stand for, making it easier to promote you. Attractive: In the quest to get noticed by customers, strive to be different! Cohesive: Yes, simplicity and attractiveness are great qualities. Just like being memorable or relevant to your target market. But to communicate cohesively, you must combine all the above aspects of quality logo design to create a beautiful message sent to all those who lay eyes on your logo. And, here are the drawings: Angelo: CliftonK: Larry/ratdude747: John/Machspeed: Randy/rcarlisle:

That fits: 80/85 F250 - -2/W/D Single piston Exc. monobeam axle 80/89 F250 - -2/W/D Dual piston Exc. monobeam axle 80/89 F350 - - 2/W/D Exc. monobeam axle

Yes, a broken ground is tricky. I was scratching my head 'cause the test light was saying all was well. But after testing the pump and it worked fine I realized I'd only tested half of the circuit. So I put the test light's alligator clip on the positive post on the battery and touched the tip to the ground terminal in the connector. The light flickered. Turned out that the terminal was still in there and apparently touched when I pushed the tip in. I was wondering about making a connector. But the whole reservoir is probably going to have to come off if the evaporator is bad, so I really wanted a factory connector on there. It took a while looking through the harnii I have to find this one, but I was a happy camper when I did.

That is 'spensive!!!! Probably less expensive to buy another t-case.

Used in Warner & New Process transfer cases with 3.54 & 4.10 axle ratios.

Rare, but 'spensive!

Thanks, Dane.

Fixed another issue on Big Blue today - the windshield washer. Turns out it was a bad connector, as explained here, but I thought it might be a common enough problem that others should know so I explained in another thread.