Gary Lewis

I have one of these steps. Mine is from Northern Tool, but the same one is available from many places. But they, too, will slide if you are on a hard surface.

So, you bought one of those steps? How well does it work?

There wasn't. Nothing in the literature says there was anything but the standard 460. I assumed someone was using 351W terminology where the one with the 4bbl was the "HO".

Right, not too bad. Looks straight. But not many pics and those there are weren't well taken.

It is just 6:30ish and I've not had even a sip of my coffee, so I have an excuse. But I don't understand "the truck side of the molding".

Music to my ears! Question: (the Devil is in the details!): Does this apply to a long bed??? (Note: If not, I've heard that Nylon can stretch ) Anyway, there was this post: "Rusty S85 Aug 6, 2021 10:53am should be 5/16" hardline. That is what is on my truck is 5/16" line from tank to carb. Going to be replaced with 3/8" hardline as 5/16" is too small for high volume high pressure EFI pump. For a carb 5/16" would be fine for a stock or fairly stock engine....." url reference: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Fuel-Line-Fix-td101554.html (Note: I don't know how to cross-thread quote something) So, going all 3/8", round trip, wouldn't hurt and might even be helpful. Question: What does anyone know about the clips that hold the tubes/lines to the rail? would gong all 3/8" create a size problem? Gary - this sounds VERY encouraging! With all this information I think I'm game to do the connectors myself. Question: On your project, did you put the foam cover on the lines (like is shown in my pictures)? If no one has done it, I'd be willing to make a How-To video about making up the connectors on the Nylon lines. Thanks a bunch for all the helpful URLs. The clips that hold the lines to the rails have an internal spring that has to be pushed out of the way. You use a tool to do that, and I think this is the set I bought. And the roll of Nylon tubing did Big Blue, which is a regular cab long bed. As for foam, no. But my lines had a rubber hose over them in some places and I put that back and used some space age insulation on them where they got close to the exhaust, as shown below: And we don't have a video, so go for it!

Thank you for all that information. This helps to explain all the different model names. Old saying: "Nothing is so bad that there isn't some good" If there is no Schrader Valve then maybe there should be one? Ditto, or pressure test port? Is there a way to put one, or these, in one of the new lines? My preference would be to order the lines already "made up" than to do it myself. If I didn't make it up well enough and there was a problem, it would be a lot of work to re-drop the tank and do it all over again. Once would be enough. Besides, there is still the opportunity for a problem if the connection isn't cleaned just right, the O-ring not seating well enough, etc. Preference would be for an experienced person to install the connectors. The plan is to get all new parts (good ones) and replace everything. Clean gas makes for a happy engine. Have done a lot of mechanic work in the old days but life was simpler back then. Oldest engine was a 4-cyl Dort with only 2 main bearings (circa 1916) and a Model T carb, set crosswise on Model T rails and running a 27" buzz saw blade. Used it to cut cordwood next to a lumber mill. Dort name plate on the radiator looked like Ford, oval, blue and white, similar writing style. Regulator? Don't know if there is one ... would this be something good, or easy, to add? (Another saying: "Don't ask the question if you don't want to hear the answer!") Actually, for now, would just like to get the show on the road, if it can be added later. Oh yes, I forgot to say that you may be able to buy the lines already made up. I'll work on those part numbers in another post if you want. But I doubt you can find them and if you do they won't be cheap. As for the frame mounted fuel pump, guess what was missing from this site? But it is there now at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part Numbers/Fuel Senders And Pumps. But we'll include it here for simplicity. As for the regulator, it is on the back of the fuel delivery manifold and is base part # 9C968.

Thank you for all that information. This helps to explain all the different model names. Sorry for the misleading comment. Old saying: "Nothing is so bad that there isn't some good" If there is no Schrader Valve then maybe there should be one? Ditto, or pressure test port? Is there a way to put one, or these, in one of the new lines? My preference would be to order the lines already "made up" than to do it myself. If I didn't make it up well enough and there was a problem, it would be a lot of work to re-drop the tank and do it all over again. Once would be enough. Besides, there is still the opportunity for a problem if the connection isn't cleaned just right, the O-ring not seating well enough, etc. Preference would be for an experienced person to install the connectors. The plan is to get all new parts (good ones) and replace everything. Clean gas makes for a happy engine. Have done a lot of mechanic work in the old days but life was simpler back then. Oldest engine was a 4-cyl Dort with only 2 main bearings (circa 1916) and a Model T carb, set crosswise on Model T rails and running a 27" buzz saw blade. Used it to cut cordwood next to a lumber mill. Dort name plate on the radiator looked like Ford, oval, blue and white, similar writing style. Regulator? Don't know if there is one ... would this be something good, or easy, to add? (Another saying: "Don't ask the question if you don't want to hear the answer!") Actually, for now, would just like to get the show on the road, if it can be added later. Ok, here's what I know about doing the fuel lines. In another post I'll look for part numbers and discuss regulators and Schrader valves. Yes, the supply is 3/8" and the return is 5/16". However, Dorman sells a roll of 3/8" Nylon line that is just long enough to do the whole truck, both supply and return: Dorman 800-072 3/8 in. Nylon Fuel Line - Black, 25 ft.. And they sell connectors that connect the 3/8" line to the 3/8" steel line as well as connectors that connect 3/8" line to 5/16" steel line. But to put the line on the barbs of the connectors you either need to be pretty good with heat or, better yet, use the Dorman 800-301 Fuel Line Repair Tool. That's what I did and there are NO leaks. It went together very nicely and actually pretty easily.

We have had a reasonably cool summer. Have seen 100 a couple of times, but in years past we've seen 114, so it isn't bad. Nothing compared to other places on the planet. And yes, I'll have a conversation with whomever is doing the work. He needs to understand that I did all the work on the truck and I'm quite concerned that his work is done well - not that it is done cheaply. Fortunately this is a small shop and it'll be easy to talk to him.

Thanks, Jim. And yes, I have plenty of spare glides. Pace Edwards really helped me out. As for the A/C, today it blew cool but the clutch was cutting in and out and there was very little condensation - on a day where the real temp was 95 and the "feel like" was 108, so there was lots of moisture to pull out. And I hope they are gentle with the HVAC plenum. I think they'll see that this is my "baby".

IIRC the first EFI systems didn't have a Schrader valve. In fact, here's a search for "early schrader valve" and there are a couple of hits. And the logical place is near the regulator, but if yours doesn't have one there then I'm guessing yours is an early one.

Did someone call me? There should be a tag on the carb to give you the #, but if not you can get there via the calibration code if you have it. It will be on a label on the valve cover. If you don't have that then go to the page entitled CALIBRATION INFO & PART #'S to get it for your truck. And you'll want some tech support, which you can find in the section of the factory shop manual here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Holley 4180C.

Angelo - Did you mean "fuel pump doesn't prime anymore"? Jeff - Sounds like a plan. Please keep us posted.

Scott - Have you tried to find them via the part number? You probably know, but to do that you have to come up with the two-character code for the retainer and then turn that code into the part number on our page at Documentation/Exterior/EXTERIOR MOULDING RETAINERS And you can get the code on the drawing below:

I went to the dealer's website, and although there were no pictures of the certification label, there was a sticker on the radiator support stating the C6 was recalibrated 6/85. Does that mean it was recalibrated at the factory? Or the dealership? Before or after it was sold? I've never seen a sticker like that.

Got an appointment for the A/C system next Monday at 9:00 AM. Sure wish it was sooner. But, with nothing else to do on the truck I replaced all of the glides on the bed cover today. Was kind of warm today so I worked only 15 minutes at a time, which limited things a bit. But I did go through the drill of getting Blue backed up to pull the cover onto, jacking BB up so there was a drop, etc. And while I did my best aligning each of the 44 slats with each other, it doesn't slide as easily as it did last time. Still, it goes into and out of the canister smoothly now and I'm sure the problem is fixed. And there were only six glides that were truly torn up, as shown below. But they were seriously torn up. Glad I got that problem solved.

And, make SURE you put lube on the seals for the transfer tube as you put the tube on and the bowl back on. The seal/o-ring has to slide into the recesses in the bowls, and w/o lube they'll be ruined and leak. Don't ask.

Bummer! So, what are the plans?

Thanks, John.

Well done, John!!!! Is that paint blue or gray?

I'm anxious to find out. Gonna bring it to the show?

Well spotted. Would be nice to know the build date and plant. I'm curious when the D60 was phased in.

Hope it didn't include "quick". Anyway, hope they find one soon.

Sounds like a nice installation. I'll bet pics would confirm that. On the on/off temps, if my aftermarket gauge is accurate Big Blue runs right at 198 to 200 with his 195 'stat. So with your 180 'stat you will probably run at 183 to 185, so turning on at 198 off at 189 should be about right. Do you have a relay to bring one on with the A/C compressor? And please tell me about the "fan 2 comes on 10 seconds later and both shut off when 189" bit? Does fan 2 come on 10 seconds later if the temp hasn't come down, or always? Does it only go off when fan 1 goes off? Just trying to understand how it works.