Gary Lewis

For simplicity sake, I'd be pulling the blower fan first for further inspection... I hate pulling that whole assembly off the firewall. Dane - We had the smell once in the summer when the A/C wasn't working right so I didn't use it for quite a while. Then, when the A/C was fixed and I used it the smell went away pretty quickly and didn't come back until the truck sat for over a month after getting back from Colorado. We used the A/C daily for the 8 days we were gone to CO and didn't have the smell, then it wasn't used for about 5 weeks and the smell came back with a vengeance. Jim - Welcome back! Janey says "Funky like a wet dog. But mold or mildew makes more sense." I'm thinking mold or mildew. And yes, whatever it is will have to be treated. And the kick panels are vented, and when the vents are open there's no smell from them. The smell only comes when Heat, A/C, or Vent is on in the HVAC system. Cory - Yes, I hate pulling the cover. So pulling the motor seems like an easier start. I think I'll pull the motor and use a piece of hose to "sniff" around. Maybe even sniff from inside the truck by sticking the hose through the dash vents. But not tomorrow as Janey has an appointment and we'll be gone quite a bit of the day. And on Tuesday the GLK is going back in the shop as the check-engine light is on again. Thanks, guys!

I just used my new borescope for the first time and wanted to report on how it works. It is the NIDAGE Wireless Endoscope for Automotive Inspection Semi-Rigid Flexible Waterproof 5.5MM WiFi Borescope Camera Compatible Android and iOS Smartphones, iPhone, iPad (4.92FT) and I got it from Amazon. They have what appears to be the same unit with three different lengths of cable. But I chose the 5' length so I wouldn't have a lot of cable laying around when I'm trying to use the device, and that seemed to work out well as 5' was plenty. It works really well, and setup was easy: 1. Put it on a USB charger for a few minutes to ensure it is charged 2. Download the app for your mobile device 3. Turn the borescope on 4. Go to Settings on your device and connect to the borescope via wifi 5. Start the app. There are several settings for resolution of the camera and for the amount of light the LEDs produce. I set the resolution to 1080p and left the LEDs on the default setting and got the pic below of the inside of my HVAC plenum. Plenty of detail and light.

Thanks, David. As it turns out, that's exactly what I used. Hopefully I used enough. We will find out tomorrow when I test it. It was a balancing act between getting enough to hold vs too much with some coming out. I decided to err on the side of "too little" instead of "too much". And I only had just a little bit come out in one spot, so hopefully there was enough to hold. We shall see. Ok, good news and not-so-good news. First, the super glue appears to be holding the strip on the glass just fine. And I lubed the track with silicone spray, so it slides nicely. And another good news item to report is that the borescope seems to work well. The setup was easy - just charge the thing for a bit via a usb port and download the app for your phone. Power it on, connect to it via wifi from your phone, and start the app. That's all it took. Plus, it takes good pictures, as shown below on the left. But the not-so-good news is that the picture below shows that there is insulation inside the HVAC plenum, as I was pretty sure was the case but just confirmed with the picture on the right which was taken when the plenum was on the work table. And, the borescope confirmed that there's no moisture in the bottom of the plenum. So, I think the cover has to come off of the plenum to see if moisture has gotten into the insulation and is causing mold or mildew. Something is causing a really funky smell, so I'm going to have to go into the system to find it. Anyone have a better idea? Maybe pull the blower motor and use a hose to truly "sniff" around?

Man, at $16 that's a steal. But while it says "reproduction" the picture sure seems to be of a used one. Am I imagining that? And the advert says "RH" and "Nutmeg" but I can't seem to find any LF or other color options. So if it was a repro wouldn't they have others? At least a black?

It won't require a PMGR starter, but it sure would benefit from one. However if you already have a good starter then that'll save some money. Anyway, glad the dizzy slipped down nicely. That makes you feel much better.

Thanks, Cory. The two shots are from slightly different angles, but using the yellow paint mark on the fender liner as a guide the two shafts look to be really close to the same length. But if he had the parts to compare that would sure help.

Wow! That was a "mouthful"! But you are making progress working out all the details. The issue with the distributor would bother me. It should drop down fully, and if you pull it down with the clamp you may cause a problem. I assume you've rotated the engine? I've seen them refuse to drop down until the engine was turned. And I think you will have to heat the #5 exhaust tube and bend it. How would the other guy know how much to bend it? On the color, black radiates the most heat possible. I chose the lightest color I could get to keep the heat in the pipes, and to prevent heating under the hood as much as possible.

These trucks are like onions. You peel and cry, peel and cry. But soon you have enough onions to have a Bloomin' Onion! On the wipers, don't miss the page at Documentation/Electrical/Wipers. And see the Troubleshooting tab.

If you jumpered across the two big terminals and it didn't crank then the problem isn't the relay as you bypassed it. The problem is either the battery cables/connections or the starter.

You may be able to get the ball joint out without removing the eccentric bushing. But it will take placing the nut on the ball joint and hitting it with a hammer to see if it will move. Not easy. I had to destroy the bushings in Dad's truck to get them out. I used a chisel on the "ear" to the right of the slot and made it close a bit and rotate. Then I tried the other side. Broke the ears off but got the bushings out.

If you put a jumper cable from the front big post to the back big post the engine cranks? How 'bout if you go from the front big big post to the little post where the red/light blue wire is? That should pull the relay in and cause the engine to crank. If not, then the relay is bad. If it does then you aren't pulling the relay in with the ignition switch.

My father would have said they are 2/3s of a pun - PU!

Thanks, David. As it turns out, that's exactly what I used. Hopefully I used enough. We will find out tomorrow when I test it. It was a balancing act between getting enough to hold vs too much with some coming out. I decided to err on the side of "too little" instead of "too much". And I only had just a little bit come out in one spot, so hopefully there was enough to hold. We shall see.

Got a bit more done on the truck. I used Larry's suggestion of super glue and put the strip on the rear window. Don't know how well it'll hold yet as I'm going to let it sit 24 hours before trying it. I used Gorilla Super Glue gel and one place I read said it cures fully in 24 hours, although another I read said 45 seconds. :nabble_anim_confused:Next up was the GMRS radio. As background, when I was headed to my hometown in KS to pickup my brother on the way to Ouray I set up a radio test with his son. And he couldn't hear me from his house, which is about a mile off the highway, so he came up to the highway. And even then we couldn't communicate until I was really close.So today I pulled the antenna off and tested it from the BNC connector I'd installed in the middle of the cable out to the antenna. The center wire is a solid connection, but the ground/outer wire has an intermittent connection to the center wire and it varies as you move the wire. So I am looking for a replacement weatherproof BNC connector. :nabble_smiley_blush:Next up was the trim piece over the seat hinge which had come loose - again. This is the third time I've had to fix it, so I decided to make it a bit more "solid". The first fix was with JB Weld and it didn't stick long at all to the plastic. The second fix was with West System G/flex epoxy, and it held longer but finally broke loose from the plastic on the trip to CO.So this time I drilled the spring and put a #6-32 screw through the trim piece and the spring clip. Here's what it looks like on the seat:And here are a couple of closeups. I had to cut the screw down so it wouldn't protrude through the nut to make sure the spring would snap onto the hinge, but it snaps on very solidly. And a drop of Loctite ensures the nut won't come loose.

Tom - Welcome! Glad you joined. But, before we get started, who are you rooting for at 2:30 this afternoon? Seriously though, where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and we could add you if we had a city or zip. On the electrical problem, you'll want to start a thread in the main section as it'll get more attention. But have you seen the alignment directions on the Ignition Switch tab at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition? But it is possible the starter relay, aka solenoid, can go bad. But it is rare for that to happen when you are working on the ignition switch. It is more likely there's something wrong with the switch or its installation.

You are almost ready to turn a corner - in Elyza Dual-little.

I missed that, Dane. Good catch.

Looking good! You'll be driving it soon, dualing-little.

That's fancy, Bill! The Traveler looks like the CompuCruise I had. Anyway, it is really starting to come together. I'll bet you are stoked!

Yep. It is probably half way home with Larry by now.

Yes, once you upload a pic Nabble refuses to upload anything by that name again. So I just change the name slightly and it'll upload it. Happy to help. Hope it drives perfectly.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Beautiful truck! I posted the pic so all could see w/o clicking on a link, which is really a scary thing to do in a newbie's post. But I chanced it, and the reason you couldn't post it is that it is too big. It is over 1Mb, but I just clicked the "Big" button in the Resize option column and there it is. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city/state or zip. Popping through the carb, poor idle, and low MPG might be caused by a leaking accelerator pump in the Carter 1bbl carb. When they leak it allows extra fuel to go right into the intake and the rich mix those symptoms.

Nice, but the K in the trans code says C6, so that wouldn't be my favorite. Other than that it looks fair for the money. But I've seen later ones at about the same money with the E4OD or even the ZF5 that would be more to my liking.

I agree - KISS! And happy we could help.

No, you went well beyond that! I kinda did to a far lesser degree (added some factory options, upgraded head unit/speakers, CB, audio power/ground wiring, and a trailer hitch&brake setup)... but Big Blue makes my truck (which has no name) look purely stock! Glad you got there safely. And aren't driving at night - I hear the deer like to be out at night. I'm not sure you need to worry about UV. The SEM is going to stop any UV from getting in. As for Big Blue, he's just "capable" - capable of going anywhere.