Gary Lewis

Just about? It is easy to tell which one you've been working on! And it looks great. Yes, small steps but they add up.

Yes, I've purchased from all three over several decades and they've treated me right. But Digi-Key won my heart today. On another note, I was looking for something yesterday and ran across the upper plenum in all its powder-coated glory. And I got to wondering what the BBK throttle body would look like on it. Kinda pretty if I do say so myself. And, by the way, that's the location of the IAC valve right below the throttle body. But, when I bolted it on I found I'm going to have to do some porting of the plenum. In the shot below you can see the red on the plenum where I "painted" it with a Sharpie. There's enough slop in the bolt-to-bolt-hole fit that you can line it up pretty well if you work at it, but since there's nothing on the back side of that flange there's really no reason not to take it out where it won't cause flow problems. When the time comes, of course.

Welcome. Sure good to see you on line again. Hope things are well with you.

Glad you found a bad connection. I'll bet that fixes it. And padding it and hanging it is a good plan.

Yes, that certainly is good information. And yes, header fitment IS a problem on 460-equipped trucks. That's why I had to trim Big Blue's frame slightly to get the L&L's to fit.

Those are good numbers! Thanks for sharing, and congrat's!

Jim - Thanks for the info on the Frost King spray. Hopefully what I have will do the trick.

David - Yep, it is a plan. Maybe I can execute it on Wednesday. Jim - I wish I could just order a new cable. In this case I need to put a connector on the Midland antenna. Originally the antenna had probably 20' of little coax terminated in a PL-239. But I wanted to be able to remove the antenna so I put a waterproof bulkhead BNC on the back of the cab near the cargo light and cut the coax and soldered it to that BNC so it would reach from that to the radio's SO-239. And then I shortened the coax dramatically and put the male BNC on it. But apparently I did a really poor job on that connector, hence the very short transmission range. At $20+ for just the connector I toyed with buying a new GMRS antenna with a BNC connector on it and coiling the coax somewhere. But I couldn't find any antennas with the right connector. Lots of "NMO mounts" with coax and BNC connectors, with that meaning "New MOtorola" I'm told. But then you need an antenna to go with it, and most of the NMO mounts are to be mounted through sheetmetal rather than on with a magnet. So after lots of searching for the right antenna or right connector, to no avail, finally Digi-Key came through!

That's the place.

Bummer! But thanks for the heads-up.

Chris - It might be less expensive than SMTP2GO, but Pedro got the latter working and I don't think he has the time to figure out how to make SES do the same thing. The reason we went with SMTP2GO was that a guy at Nabble set up an instance of Nabble on his own server and tied it to SMTP2GO and then let Pedro look under the hood at the settings. And since we still need Pedro to figure out https using LetsEncrypt, and then teach me to manage Nabble forums on AWS, I don't want to ask him to do anything else. At least not at the moment. He said he is really busy at the moment, but will see if he can carve out time to look at https this week. Anyway, thanks! Maybe later?

Ok, I'm home now and here's the plan, Stan. The links David found take you to Amazon to buy: nextzett 96110515 Klima-Cleaner Air Conditioner Cleaner: It is 10 fl oz for $17.79, or $1.78/oz, and it would be here in 5 days. Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner: It is 6 fl oz for $16.42, or $2.73/oz, and it would be here in 5 days as well. But I'm confused as to why on the video they suggested buying one can of Kool-It to get the hose and then using Nextzett since it comes with a hose as well. But wait! There's more! O'Reilly's carries the Kool-It for $11.99, which makes it $2.00/oz. And the store near us in Owasso, where we were running errands, had it in stock. So why wait? Unfortunately they only had one can. But I bought it while Janey was in the nearby grocery store and bought Lysol. So the plan is to give the system a shot of Lysol and Kool-It, wait a bit, and then give it another shot of Lysol and the rest of the Kool-It. Wait the 15 minutes and start it up. And if that does it then I'll call it "done" unless or until the smell returns. If it works but not completely I'll order in more of one or the other. And if it doesn't work at all I guess I'll pull the motor and start sniffing. Thoughts?

Thanks, David. I found the Kook-It stuff at O’Reilleys so am going to stop and get it. Amazon is next week.

Ok, I’ve watched all 3 and I like the 2nd one best. But I’m not finding their list of things to use. What am I missing? I’m on my phone and maybe that’s the problem? So if anyone can give me the list I’ll try to pick up the stuff while I’m running errands. And, by the way, we can’t use the 3rd process as we don’t have a cabin filter.

Thanks, David! I've watched the first two and will watch the third in a bit. The second one looks VERY promising, so I need to find those cans.

Hmmm... Ron's Hamburgers? No, today it is Freddy's in Owasso. But two weeks ago today, as we were driving home from St Joe, Missouri I said "How about Ron's for lunch?" Janey agreed and we stopped there about 2 that afternoon.

No prob, John. Tell your wife that I offered to loan you mine but that the gas to/fro is roughly the cost of the tool, and on top of that you offered to buy lunch next time you came up. So it'll be cheaper all around for you to buy one. I think there are three different lengths of cable on the same tool. So pick your length to fit your "need". As for the odor, Janey put on her mask to escape it, and even that didn't really work. She says I have to fix it, so that's the next order of business. Having said that, I did get the BNC connector I need for the GMRS antenna on order, so when it comes in I'll fix the antenna. And, to document the connector I ordered I need to tell a bit of a story. As said, I needed another BNC connector. The one I ordered previously was a crimp-style connector, but since I don't have the right crimp tool I tried to install it by soldering the connection instead of crimping. Which is surely why there is an intermittent short. So I spent Saturday afternoon and evening while watching football and then baseball searching for the right connector. It needed to be weatherproof, solder-style, and for the little bitty 3mm OD coax. Man, what a pain! No one seemed to have exactly what I was looking for. However, along the way I looked at Digi-Key and found that they have a LARGE selection of BNC connectors. But by the time I got to Page 10 of 25 connectors/page my eyes were blurry. And with every page I went to another popped up to the right. So I called Digi-Key even though it was Saturday evening and a nice lady answered. Turns out she isn't Tech Support and no techs were there, but they'd be there at 9:00 this morning. Well, surely I could find my own, so I thanked her and kept looking. But at Page 20, having looked at exactly 500 different connectors, I gave up and sent Tech Support an email outlining my needs. And at 9:35 this morning I got an email from them with the part number as well as a link to exactly what I was looking for: ARF1157-ND, 69475 So, it is on order, and Digi-Key will be the first place I turn to in the future for electronics/electrical needs.

Is lunch included? E0TZ 9034-A 80/86F100/350 (99) — exc. Canada Use with aft axle fuel tank-with unleaded fuel (incl. Crew Cab) 80/86 U150

Gary, you get a chance to use that Borescope? Yep, see this post. Bottom Line: Borescope works well and shows there's no water in the HVAC plenum and no visible mold. So the pull-apart to find the origin of the smell will start on Wednesday as we have errands to run today and tomorrow. Gonna see if I can use a hose to let me sniff various places, starting with the HVAC compartment after I pull the blower motor out.

Yep, you are very good at it! And, for the others, I really should explain that David/1986F150Six is my "really good friend that has a gift for finding things". So while he was finding other altimeters and posting links to them in this thread he found a NIB one and shot me a link one-on-one and I bought it. I think it'll be a cool addition to Big Blue's instrumentation. Thanks again, David!

Thanks, but a really good friend that has a gift for finding things found this one, for less than half what the first one went for.

Well, I didn't win. I set my upper limit to $50 and it sold for $55. But thanks anyway, David.

Eastwood had a post for a 7" round LED headlight that had simulated ribbing to emulate 60s-70s headlights, it wasnt very convicing but better than perfectly smooth clear housings. How ever this post that I screenshot on Oct 7 was from 2018 and it has not been made and no more word from Eastwood about it and the post just disappeared. I do believe a diffused housing would be produced one day for the older vehicles for restorations sort of like how Coker eventually made a bias look radial tire so people could have the best of both worlds, period look tires but modern composition and construction. Aside from that, I dont know if my housings are still fine I havent even really looked but I bought the ECE Hella composite housings for my truck and I used the Silverstar Ultra bulbs and it was great, just wasnt too great being the ECE design as it didnt really light up the overhead signs but it did put a lot of light on the ground. Below are some photos of my setup when new. I did have to get new housings as my first set of housings were hazy out of the box and didnt pay much attention to them and it got worse by year 2. Photo showing the design of the ECE Composite housings from Hella that I have Low beam at dusk with Silverstar Ultra H4 bulbs High beam at dusk with Silverstar Ultra H4 bulbs High beam at dusk with Silverstar Ultra H4 bulbs and KC Apollo 6" 100w driving lights Im going to stick with this layout and eventually if I can verify fitment of the Go Rhino roll bar I want to add two more pairs of KC hallogen lights, preferably two 100w spots and two 100w floods with the floods being on the outboard sides and spots in the middle. Well, I realized recently that it has been almost a year since I asked Daniel Stern, of Daniel Stern Lighting, to tell me about the latest in retrofit automotive lighting. His response is below, and is both very informative as well as lengthy. And much of it is the same or similar to previous responses, but there is enough new info to make it a good read. And I can see that I'm going to be spending $179 + 43.18 = $222.18 or more with Daniel in the near future.

Oh man, that taste won't go away for days! On the wiper control box, I think it will unplug and come out w/o taking the switch out. It is tight up there, but it can be done. And it isn't actually screwed down as popping off the emergency brake has enough impact to cause problems with the box, so it sorta dangles by its wires.

I don't think these people are. Don't you think that's a used one?