Gary Lewis

Are those electric trucks? Is that what the EV means - electric vehicle?

Time for an update as I just got this in from Midland: So, that means I'll be able to use the PL259 connector that is on the RG58 that comes with the MXTA51 magnetic base to run from the radio to the SO239 in the back of the cab. However, it also means I need another PL259 to graft onto the RG58 on the magnetic base. So I ordered 4 of them from Amazon for $9. (Anyone need PL259's?) Also, I discovered that the Amphenol SO239 shown in the pic below doesn't have the tabbed washer onto which you solder the shield, so I ordered 4 more SO239 bulkhead connectors that do from Amazon for $9. But the difference is that the 4 from Amazon are front mount and I want rear mount, so I paid ~$25 inc shipping for that special one, only to find it doesn't have the tabbed washer for the sheath. And speaking of that special connector, it wasn't completely sealed front/rear. So I used liquid tape to seal the back of it, which seems to have done the trick. For reference, lacquer thinner is the stuff to use to thin that liquid tape just a bit so it'll flow into the cracks and crevices.

Yup, the first page doesn't show correctly. So here 'tis:

Well, let's see if this works. I downloaded the whole evaluation file and am posting it below so you can see the graph, the sales on which the evaluation is predicated, and the 4 different categories. But at first blush the first page doesn't come through. If after I post it we still don't see the first page I'll "print" it and post it as well.

Thanks for updating it. Would be a shame for someone to want one and not be able to contact you.

And you are both on the map now. Apparently you've already met? Small world.

Bummer!

You are now on the map. And the sig looks good.

Nice.

Doesn't "look" that good, but reads like it might be a very good starting point for a project.

All I know is what I've been told and read. Jet-Hot told me that the interior coating does as much for the heat reduction as the exterior does. And several places I talked to said they don't coat the interior as they cannot properly prep it. As for the temp reduction, Jet-Hot's Classic polished coating reduces temps "up to 65%", while the Offroad coating, which is the one I got, reduces temps "40 - 43%" due to the lack of polish. And seems to corroborate the 65%. And from experiments my son and I did when he was a kid, the color makes a very big difference. We spray-painted squares of aluminum and put them in the sun and measure the temp. The coat of paint was probably about the thickness of the ceramic coating, and it made a really big difference. And while that was absorption, the text books all say that emission is the same as absorption.

Interesting. Wouldn’t be worth that to me, but it isn’t bad either. So, if we called the computers from Radio Shack Trash 80’s, would that CB be a Trash 427?

That's a lot of snow! I used to think I wanted to live somewhere, like Colorado, that gets a lot of snow. What I didn't think about is how cold it is to go with the snow. In my old age I'm wanting less cold, so less snow. But I'm glad there are people that like it. Or at least put up with it. Otherwise everybody would be here.

Nice looking truck! And it makes a big difference that you drive it every day. That means most of the issues have been resolved. That being the case then I'll share what I'm finding on Hagerty. But bear in mind that Hagerty deals with collector vehicles.

I think you can. But you don't want the pin to come close to the stator, so any excess should probably point down - unless it'll hit something.

Welcome! Glad you joined. As you know from our conversation, we have others in the UK. You can email them by clicking on their pin on the map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and then clicking the email link. However, our email system is flakey and frequently implies to the user that it didn't send the message, although it usually does. So I tick the box that says "Send a copy of this message to me" so I know it went. Speaking of the map, would you like to be on it? I wasn't sure from your FB message so haven't added you. Last, how 'bout going to the main section and posting a few pics of your truck? And maybe add a signature so when you ask a question we don't have to be reminded what your truck is and has?

The XLS trucks seem like they should be worth more money to me...but they don't seem to bring it in. Some of the Bullnose trucks that have gone for major bucks were very unlikely to me, but they were super low mileage. The XLS is pretty rare...so much so that I don't think most enthusiasts even know what they are...and I mean Ford people. I would LOVE to have this truck personally. It's gorgeous, and decent original XLS trucks are really rare these days. Amen! And it was borne on my birthday in ‘83. Meant to be?

Yes. And clockwise.

Yep, I found that. And from the Standard & Utility Parts Catalog (Documentation/Reference/Standard & Utility Parts Catalog):

I've done that. About 20 years ago we had a serious storm and got ~18" of snow. I took Dad's truck out to get my nephew and it did so fantastically well that I told him I wanted the truck when he was done with it. Years later, he didn't think he was done with it, but we were done with him driving, so we made a deal.

What is the pin's part number? Maybe I can find it. As for the damper, that is the thing on the end of the crankshaft, on the very front. It is made in two parts - the inner hub and the outer ring, and there's rubber between them. When the rubber gets old it can lose its grip on the metal parts and the outer ring can slip in relationship to the inner hub. Which means your timing marks are wrong. So you find top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke and check to see if the TDC mark is aligned with the pointer. Again, this has to be on the compression stroke of the engine, and that can be found by placing your thumb over the sparkplug hole and spinning the engine over with the starter. (Make sure it is out of gear and everything is clear of the fan.) When it comes up on TDC it'll blow your thumb away from the engine. You won't be able to get the engine stopped in time, but you can back up a turn or so and get it. There are lots of ways of finding TDC, but these are the main two: Piston Stop: You can buy a device that screws into the sparkplug hole and stops the piston. You turn the engine over BY HAND very gently and bring it up against the stop. Mark the damper where the pointer is pointing. Rotate the engine back the other way, very gently, up against the stop, and mark the damper at the pointer. Half way between the two is TDC. So if you remove the stop and position the engine there the timing pointer should be pointing at TDC if the damper is good. Straw: Or, you can insert something soft, like a soda straw, through the sparkplug hole and turn the engine over gently and note where the straw is sticking out the farthest. That is roughly TDC. And "roughly" might be good enough to check to see if the damper has slipped.

I think $20K is about what it'll bring. And I think it is worth that. That truck is in wonderful shape. Man, I'd drive it the way it is. Well, maybe change out the wheels something more correct. I tried to value it on Hagerty by VIN, but they can't find it. And I can't seem to even find Flaresides, much less XLS Flaresides.

Well spotted, as your countrymen would say. And, he was talking to you. But it took me a bit to find it as I forgot you are on the West Coast and there wasn't a post time stamped 2:06. However, I found it at 4:06. And copying a permalink on an iPad takes persistence. But 'tis easy of a real computer. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Fixing-Eddie-tp84683p99181.html And how he actually did it is in this post: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Fixing-Eddie-tp84683p99181.html

which is another reason why I am more and more leaning towards the Zirconia color. Only other option would be to just buy some VHT header paint and just paint the headers myself which I dont want to do as my goal is to prevent the underhood temps from going up from switching to headers from OE cast iron manifolds. Yes, keeping the heat in was one of my goals. It lowers the temp under the hood awa increases efficiency. And a coating like you are talking about will not only help that dramatically, but it will last a lot longer than a high-temp paint job. I don't know about the less expensive company you've found, but JetHot coats the inside as well as the outside. You won't have that with paint.

I don't know about turning the shaft, but I saw the writeup below in the 1980 factory shop manual the other day and its discussion about the alignment of one of the spokes of the armature being in alignment with the stator might be applicable. I would see if the spoke and the stator line up. And, if the rotor aligns with #1's terminal at the same time - when the timing mark for #1 is at TDC. Oh, and another thought. How old is the damper? I've seen the outer ring on them slip such that the timing mark was a long way from where it was supposed to be. So if the damper isn't new you might want to find TDC and see if the mark aligns. You may have the timing way off.