Gary Lewis

Same here, I also like their Brake Gray that has real stainless steel powder in it. It will rust near the brake fluid but it wont turn into a block of rust like unpainted cast iron. I dont know if I want to wire brush my old master cylinder and spray it or just buy a new one and spray it. I will be getting new wheel cylinders and calipers since truck has sat for a few years now and I do need to go into the rear drums to find out what I need to get the self adjusters working again, I disabled them as they were just constantly tightening up. So I can use the 3/4 can I have of the brake gray to spray those items. I might even use it on the spindles too since its resistant to brake fluid. I have four new Moog ball joints put up to put on the truck but was going to do that after I install new leaf springs in the back to OE specs from Detroit Spring and new coil springs in the front OE spec + 2.5" increase over stock for a built in leveling kit. Im also thinking about pulling the rear axle when I do the leaf springs and stripping it down to bare metal and painting it black. Im going to try and plan it where I do the springs at the same time I plan on doing the currie center chunk housing that way I can just pull the whole axle out wire brush it down and primer it and paint it, but that will be painted in the 2K chassis black as its a very durable paint. Why not go with the later master? Much better. Aluminum and plastic won't rust. As for the rest of that stuff, you are like me - once you get started you don't know when to stop!

I hadn't thought of it. Somehow I was intent on a jack in the back of the cab. Maybe tomorrow I can put the radio back in and test it.

It looks great, Rusty! And I am a fan of Detail Gray. Even have some of it on Dad's truck.

It is good you don't have to do that. Not that I don't think you could, but it is just easier if you don't have to.

Shaun - You are right, that thing is UGLY! How hard is it to replace it? (I think I may actually have one, but if not I may order that one.) Dane - It would have been cool to incorporate it into the light. I'm not sure there's enough room for it, but it might have been able to have gone just off center on the top.

Got the coax connections on and the antenna mounted. But I took the cargo light out to do that and when I put it back I discovered that the goo I used last round to seal it to the cab was almost set up in the tube. I used it, but I'm not at all pleased with it so will have to redo that. And I got the spacer cut and put in place for the rear step mount. In the pic on the left, below, you can see the spacer and the nut/lock washer/washer combo that is up against the frame. There's a similar combo on the other side of the frame and the back side of the piece of plate. So the spacer is sandwiched between the two nuts with tension on the all-thread, and the nuts and washers spread the load on the frame. In the pic on the right you can see the rear spring's front pivot nut, which holds the step bar mount to the spring mount. The step bar mount seems quite solid.

Makes sense to stay with the earlier unit with that switch. So you have to put the larger module on to be able to flash it?

You are now on the map. As for the 1G, it'll do the job as it has done for all this time. And w/o power add-ons you really don't need it.

So you got an SBEC-2? And you have a support community to help you make it happen?

Welcome! Glad joined. That's a cool story. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section to show us pictures and detail your progress. For instance, if you are changing the alternator will you upgrade to the 3G? And tell us how the intake/exhaust system is working for you. And where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city or post code. No actual address, please. Glad the joining process worked.

I didn't know that. Wonder if I could assemble a solution from stock parts - I'll check that out, thanks for the info! I think you should be able to do so. My understanding is that the later VSS also fed the speed control, so at least it handled both inputs.

Wow, that's a big "something"! What software do you use? Is it basically like the EEC-IV's? As for the top, once that prep is done do you have the top ready to go on?

All crew cabs were built in Oakville Ontario as were the Flexes so all three of my Fords are imports. The VSS plugs into the tranny or t-case with a driven gear on it, just like a cable. Then the cable plugs into it. As for Canada, perhaps they were still using the leftover 2-piece cable?

Yes, I am! Almost as much as when I got all of the TSB's shown below. My friend Keith Dickson asked me one day if I'd be interested in ALL of the Technical Service Bulletins from the 70's until the late 90's. My answer was ABSOLUTELY! What do I need to do to get them????? He'd found an instructor in Michigan that had purchased them for use in his classes, but was no longer teaching so they were available. However, I'd have to go to Michigan to get them. SURE! But when I contacted that instructor he was headed to Texas and was passing through Okiehoma, within 30 miles of our house. So he brought the whole lot - for free! Then, after inventorying them I sent the ones Keith didn't have to him, and we both now have full sets for our area of interest. YES, I'm like a kid at Christmas!

Ok, how do you explain Darth having the two piece cable with the sensor near the floor penetration? Built 08/86 There is no explaining what parts are on Darth. Seriously, it looks like there was a difference in trucks with and without the "speed reducer". You can see that on Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Sensors and the Speedo Cables tab. The ones with speed reducer used the two-part cable through '86. But those w/o went to the 1-piece cable in '86. But, of course, that's what the MPC says. However, things were never as crisp in cutover. Many of the changes were made on a by-plant basis. And weren't all the crewcab DRW's made in Canada?

I like collecting the stuff as well as placing it on the website. So would love to acquire what he has, assuming it is relevant. And I can do the scanning as I have a sheet-feeder on my scanner that goes through things pretty quickly. But please see what he has and if he's willing to part with any of it.

I looked around a bit for something that would work off the speedometer cable, but didn't find anything I was sure would work. The speedo cable is somewhat of an unknown quantity right now anyway - the BW 1356 transfer case does not have a provision for a speedo cable. So I don't know if I will get an earlier BW 1356 tailshaft housing and a longer speedo cable, or if I will convert to an electronic speedometer. If I do convert, I am assuming I could take the signal off the stock VSS I will be installing on the diff pinion. Decisions, decisions. Yep, decisions. FYI, from 1980 thru 85 the speedo cable was in two pieces with the VSS under the brake booster. In 86 the VSS went into the tranny/t-case and there was a 1-piece speedo cable. I changed to the latter and got a more stable signal for the speed control. Apparently the speedo cable was twisting and releasing.

Yes, Wow! But what is the CD looking thing in some of the interior shots? I've lightened the image up in this one so you can see it better, but I'm still . And, in this shot you can see some less-than-stock things. Like a wire nut under the dash. And the 4 screws in the kick panel. Plus, in another shot there's a RED master cylinder. I'm not convinced this truck is worth $39K. It does appear to be straight and w/o rust. But I worry about what has been done to it that can't easily be seen.

Jeff - That is VERY interesting! Anything he has could be helpful, and since I am friends with Keith Dickson, who runs the FORDification site, basically anything he has could be used. Keith's site appears to start in 1961 and runs through 1979, and ours starts in '80 and runs through at least '96. Of special interest would be the master parts catalogs in either microfiche or printed form. So please talk to him and see what he has. Or what he might be willing to part with. Thanks!

Yes, the price of used vehicles, and particularly trucks, has gone up dramatically. Take a look at the document in this post. I think you got a good deal.

As a follow up to my post, it pays to have all of your info together and talk to the right people. The straw that broke the camel's back was poor service on a very expensive embroidery machine, so I emailed the manufacturer and told them that their retailer's service section was incompetent servicing their machine. And I got a phone call from their regional service manager the next day. I explained the situation but also said that I'd called the regional sales manager for the chain of stores and she was supposed to call me back. He said he would check back with me later after she'd had a chance to call, but would be talking with her about the problem. Then the regional sales manager called me back. I explained how much money we've spent at the store and what they've done to us recently - sold us a used cutting machine for new and botched the service on the embroidery machine. And every time they've messed up they expect us to drive 45 minutes back to the store to fix their problem. Further, that as of now we will no longer be doing business with them, and that I've filed a formal complaint with the manufacturer, who would be calling her soon. She seemed truly appalled - especially after she did some checking and realized that they didn't even order the replacement cutting machine for a week after we informed them that they'd sold us a used one. And, she was taken aback when I told her the machine they sold us was not only obviously used, but had been registered with the manufacturer - and we know the name of the person who registered it. Turns out we aren't the only ones that have complained about that store. So she's having some serious meetings with them and will make some changes, and will inform me what they are and when they happen so we can return with confidence we'll be treated fairly. But meanwhile, she made things right. Today her top service person showed up with a new, never-opened cutting machine that is two notches better than the one we purchased. And, while here he fixed the embroidery machine. So, I say all of that to say get your details together and have a serious conversation with the right people. It can make a difference.

Thanks, Dane. What I didn't say is how I'm beefing up another part of the rear mount. The 3" square tubing I mentioned is welded to a 1/4" plate that is attached to the truck in two places: The rear spring's front pivot bolt comes through the plate in the middle of the square tubing. A 6" long 5/8" diameter piece of all-thread attaches to the frame on one end and through the top of the 1/4" plate on the other end. That arrangement has worked well since when you step on the bar the all-thread is in tension. However I've realized that if there were to be upward pressure on the bar the all-thread would be in compression, and it might bend. So today I bought some pipe with 5/8" ID and I'll cut pieces of it and slip over the all-thread. That will provide a lot more support in case there is upward pressure on the mounts. Also, I've found some corrosion starting on the mounts. So I'm going to do several things to prevent corrosion. First, all of the mount hardware will be powder coated. And I'll spray the inside of the aluminum step bars with FluidFilm. And I'll lube all of the fasteners with anti-seize. Plus I'll spray the inside of the pipe spacers & all-thread with fluid film. But the design of the step bars, which have a plastic spacer between the ends of the bars and the mounts, creates a fairly positive seal - meaning it'll hold moisture in. So I'll put a slot in the bottom of the end of the tube so the moisture can get out. I hope that means the mounts and bars will be around for a good, long time.

Well done! I'm sure glad you figured out about the bearings before it was too late. On the speed sensor, can you use the input from the sensor in the speedo cable for the speed control?

The Midland magnetic mount base came in, and it does indeed use RG58 coax. So I'm good to go as I'll screw the connector shown into the radio, cut the coax about 4' back and solder it to my bulkhead-mount female connector (SO239) and mount it in the back of the cab. Then I'll put the base in the middle of the roof and cut the coax and install the male connector (PL259) and we will be in business. Also, I got the LR step bar mount beefed up today. I'll get better pics as I go, but here's a shot of it from the bottom and you can see the new plate on the left, the piece of angle that is welded between the left and right sides, and the bolt that goes through the angle into the 3" square tubing. And in these two pics you can see the difference. On the right is the original right rear bracket with the open side on the front. And what you can't see is that it is held to the piece of 3" square tubing by one 1/2" bolt at the top. But on the left is the modified left bracket with its new plate that boxes the 3" square tubing in, and the piece of angle that provides a place for the 1/2" bottom bolt that goes up into the tubing. Which appears stronger?

I'm glad you found it. Or maybe I should say "them", as you seem to have several leaks. That smoke test is amazing. It finds even tiny leaks in really hard-to-get-to locations. Glad it worked for you.