Gary Lewis

At $45 it is indeed cheap. But those are odd actuators. I've not seen that kind before, and they might be hard to replace if they fail. On the other hand, the buttons/switches aren't the easily-broken style Ford used, so they might last. If I was wanting to do door locks cheaply I'd buy one of the cheap remote lock units like Steve/Foxford33 did and scrounge up a Ford wiring harness and actuators. That would be fairly easy to install, and I'd do so w/o switches. That way you can lock the doors as you walk away from the truck or unlock as you walk up to the truck with the remote. In fact, save for the fact I installed a full-blown security system, that's what I have and love it.

Nice. And I thought "Wow! I could buy this and get a new gasket for mine instead of the goop I used to seal it." Then I looked at the price - $259!!!

Wasn't someone looking for those connectors recently?

Looks good! I'll bet you can't wait. Hope it goes really well.

Yep, during lunch today I canceled the summit order as I found the tee new on ebay for $24.95 which is only a couple dollars more than what I was paying on summit with tax and shipping so I bought it and should have it monday. The woman that helped me at jegs last night emailed me today and informed me that she talked to them on the phone at Manley and they told her these pushrods should be ready late december early january. At least I have a date which is better than the it ships next week and it doesnt. It is good that she got back with you. At least someone is trying to help.

Just reply, we'll see it. And you are now on the map. Electrician, hmmm. I know several of those. In fact, Steve/Foxford33 is one of those as well. Good friend of mine. Anyway, Sparky works.

Bummer! Sounds like you'll be having the same chat I will with the people that serviced Janey's sewing machine. They installed the case such that the foot feed can't be plugged in. So now we have to take it all the way back to south Tulsa just so they can fix it. Two hour round trip because they can't do their job right. But this is the outfit that sold Janey a very expensive Cut & Scan and when we got it home she found it was used. Someone had unboxed it, used it, and even registered it before returning it. But they sold it as new. So I will be having a conversation with the manager of the store.

Bummer!

Yikes! It squeals with no belts? That doesn't bode well. Do you show oil pressure?

So, that means I'll be able to use the PL259 connector that is on the RG58 that comes with the MXTA51 magnetic base to run from the radio to the SO239 in the back of the cab. However, it also means I need another PL259 to graft onto the RG58 on the magnetic base. So I ordered 4 of them from Amazon for $9. (Anyone need PL259's?) Also, I discovered that the Amphenol SO239 shown in the pic below doesn't have the tabbed washer onto which you solder the shield, so I ordered 4 more SO239 bulkhead connectors that do from Amazon for $9. But the difference is that the 4 from Amazon are front mount and I want rear mount, so I paid ~$25 inc shipping for that special one, only to find it doesn't have the tabbed washer for the sheath. And speaking of that special connector, it wasn't completely sealed front/rear. So I used liquid tape to seal the back of it, which seems to have done the trick. For reference, lacquer thinner is the stuff to use to thin that liquid tape just a bit so it'll flow into the cracks and crevices. Got the tabbed washers, as well as the SO239 connectors they were with, in the mail today. Now I just need the stuff from Midland and I can finish the antenna installation. So I turned to the bent step bar bracket on the driver's side rear. Took the step bar off and discovered that straightening that bracket wasn't as easy as expected. But with the press, then a whole lot of heat and a big hammer I got it acceptable. Tomorrow I'll design the upgrade to the rear brackets. Spent some time thinking about it today, but it isn't going to be as easy as expected since the bolt that holds the bar to the bracket is in the way of my planned use of a piece of angle. But, there are other options.

Do you still have a belt on the water pump when it squeals? If so, I'd take that off and see if the squeal goes away. It won't hurt to run the engine just long enough to test w/o a belt on the water pump. If the squeal is there with the belt on and goes away with it off then it is the water pump.

I have hose clamps on my Rangers, but when I tried to put one on the F350, I realized the same thing. So, the hose clamp won't work? Bummer! Unfortunately our tailgates don't lend themselves to a handle lock. The later gates have an inside panel that allows you into the innards of the gate and you can add a lock. In fact, I have one. But our gates don't have the panel and it doesn't look easy to add a lock.

Not anymore. I threw in a few bids and brought it up to where it is now, but I don't want it that bad since it's outdated technology and in my eyes is only good for a restoration, or somebody who REALLY wants one. I agree that it is outdated tech. Jim's use of LED strips glued to the frontside of the insets of the hood proved that. Far superior lighting in all ways. But, I still have one of those trouble lights on Big Blue. However, in my defense it was already there. I just changed out the bulb to an LED.

Congrat's!!! Glad you found the issue with the spacer. Do you have the tranny installed?

Interesting! Hadn’t thought of that. May try it. Thanks.

Thanks for the clarification. Man, that snow does make for a lot of extra work. I think I'll stay right here.

I suspect it is the float level, and since that's the easiest thing to adjust I'd start there. It won't hurt anything to have it low. All a little low will do is to cause it to run out of fuel on hard acceleration as you wind it out in a couple of gears. Your description sounds like it is rich, and that is consistent.

Well, I think the plot just took a significant turn - away from ignition to fuel. So you probably have a carb issue. And I'll guess it is a float level or needle and seat issue. I say that because with the rear tank not supplying fuel the float level would drop as the engine uses fuel. So a too-high fuel level, which could be caused by either a too-high setting or bad needle/seat combo, would go away pretty quickly. Another issue I thought of was the power valve, but it wouldn't change with the removal of fuel pressure when you flipped the switch. So I'd rule that out, although if you are into the carb you might want to replace it anyway.

And you won't remove it just to satisfy me? Ok, thanks for looking. I was just curious.

There are two accepted ways of "securing" the tailgate: A hose around the right pivot/hinge will at least slow the thief down. A lock, like this McGard or this Pop & Lock. But Amazon says the McGard doesn't fit our trucks and doesn't say about the P&L, so you'd need to do some research. This video discusses the two:

Bummer!!!! That is such a shame. Sorry, Rusty. But I think your plan for the weekend sounds good.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice looking truck. And a 302/AOD combo should be a great driver, getting reasonable MPG for these trucks. And it seems like your DIY skills are very good, as adjusting the AOD isn't the most obvious thing to do. So, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if we knew your city and state or zip. As for "Sparky", have you done a few "vacation" films? Or, more likely, served as a radioman in the navy?

That is CHEAP!

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city/state or zip. You'll have to add some pics of your truck. Perhaps start a thread on it in the main section? On the tranny, depending on what you are doing the Mustang tranny might work well. But probably not for towing, if that's what you do. By the way, I see that you "assigned" this thread to yourself. That's fine, but that feature is usually used to alert someone that hasn't posted that s/he should come see something or comment on something. In your case since it is your thread you should get email when someone posts. But on another thread if you tick the box entitled "Alert me by email when someone posts to this thread" you'll get email.

I hadn't noticed that, Shaun. But you are right. I've seen the F100/F150 thing before though, and wondered about it. Don't remember on which vehicle or I'd go back and see if it was also and F100.