Gary Lewis

Ok folks, I need some help. I've been looking at the Manuals & Literature spreadsheet on my computers and it works well. But I just looked at it on my phone and it doesn't work so well. Basically the issue is that the Excel feature of being able to freeze panes doesn't appear to work for embedded spreadsheets. (I've asked for help in the Microsoft Tech Community, so maybe someone can help.) So when you scroll down the sheet you lose the years at top, and when you scroll over you lose the row headings on the left. So I'm looking for ways to make it more usable for mobile users. One thought was to split the years by placing 1980 - 86 on one tab and 87 - 96 on another tab. But that doesn't fix the years at the top, just the headings on the left. So, what can y'all think of? How can we make this better?

Time for an update. Part of the lull has been that my scanner died. But it has now been replaced by Xerox, under warranty no less, and I'm back in business. So yesterday and today I scanned some of the documents that Bill/85lebaront2 sent me. But you may have seen in Site Formatting Question & Possible Solution that those documents are from the 90's. And while it might not seem appropriate to have them on the site, they are helpful since many of us have incorporated later bits and pieces into our trucks. Anyway, I've added columns for 1990 - 96 to the Manuals & Literature spreadsheet to accommodate these later docs: 1990: Owner's Guide; Operating Guide; Maint Sched & Record Log; Warranty Info Booklet 1995: Maint Sched And while it might not seem all that much, it's another 435 pages of documentation. Now for a bit of note-taking for me. I've come up with a technique that works fairly well for the little booklets that are held together with staples in the middle and I want to capture it 'cause I will forget it otherwise. But first, the problem is that each piece of paper actually has four pages on it. And they are NOT sequential. However, my scanner scans both the front and back of each page at the same time and creates an image for each side separately. So if it is a 6-page document the first image will have Page 1 and Page 6 on one side of it. The second will have Page 2 & Page 5. And the third image will have Page 3 & Page 4. So here's what I did in my pdf application after the scanning and OCR'ing are done: 1: Duplicate each image and put the duplicates at the end of the document. But in the 6-page example that leaves the deck with pages in this order: 1 & 6; 2 & 5; 3 & 4; 1 & 6; 2 & 5; 3 & 4. However I need the duplicated pages to be in reverse order as the 2nd page on each image is in reverse order. 2: Move each of the duplicated images to the end of the document, one at a time, starting with the next-to-last image. Do it one at a time until you get to the last image, which is in the center of the deck and is usually the back & front cover, and move it. And in our example we'll have: 1 & 6; 2 & 5; 3 & 4; 3 & 4; 2 & 5; 1 & 6 3: Crop the odd numbered images by moving the left margin to the middle of the page. That takes the back half of each image off. In other words, in our 6-page example on the first image we are cropping Page 6 off and leaving Page 1. So now the images in our example look like: 1; 2 & 5; 3; 3 & 4; 5; 1 & 6 4: Crop the even numbered images by moving the right margin to the middle of the page, taking the front half off the even images. So in our example we now have: 1; 2; 3; 4; 5; 6. Yes, that is painful. And the file is twice the size it needs to be as every page is in there twice since cropping doesn't delete it but just hides it. So it is better to cut the pages up and scan them individually. But I didn't want to do that to Bill's booklets. However, for the '90 owner's guide I did pull the pages out as getting a good scan of "bound" things is very difficult.

Yes, the power valve is probably at the front/bottom of the carb and the cover is held on with 4 screws. On some of the carbs the cover has a fitting that is for vacuum and that goes to manifold vacuum. Not all 2150's have that, but one of mine did. And that vacuum hose is important as w/o it the PV won't work.

Hadn't thought about what carb it might have. Yep, if it has a VV then there could be a problem. And you are right, a bad power valve would certainly cause the CO to go through the roof.

The parts washer washing away the paint and grime is helping to accelerate my cleaning, all I have to wirebrush is stubborn paint which is very little and wirebrush the rust out of the metal. The penetrating oil I am only spraying on steel parts to prevent rust. Aluminum is getting nothing but carb cleaner sprayed on them to clean them as the chemicals in the parts washer will turn the aluminum black from oxidation which I dont want. I thought about powder coating but started thinking it would make it harder for touch ups down the road. Plus I learned powder coating chips fairly easy just like paint. I did find black paint on all the parts for the dealer AC so it looks like even what I take to be cast steel parts were painted black as well. So only bare metal would be the cast iron alternator bracket that I have to repaint, the aluminum flex fan spacer, and the aluminum mount for the power steering pump. Dealer AC bracket before being tossed in the automated parts washer. Dealer AC bracket after washing with cool water (parts washer heater gets the parts hot enough you cant hold them in your bare hand) and wire brushing the obvious rust. Might take more time and go over it again and maybe use a sanding disc to smooth out the weld splatter I found on the front side. The flat adapter plate that bolts to the driverside cylinder head that bolts to the two back bolts on the AC compressor bracket. This is after the wash but before wire brushing. Box of cleaned and uncleaned parts. AC compressor bracket, powersteering pump bracket, AC compressor bracket to head bracket, fan pulley, fan spacer, and dealer AC tensioner are all cleaned and ready for paint. I did not spray penetrating oil on the cast steel tensioner out of fear it may soak in too deep with its cast pattern. The AC adapter pulley still needs to be cleaned as well as the three spacers, the two equal length ones fit between the AC compressor bracket and the water pump bolts and the shorter one fits on the head for the bracket which I may not need with the AFR heads as they are flat smooth and the OE heads are recessed lightly. And this is where I am at as of today when I left work, everything but the three spacers and AC pulley adapter have been cleaned. I am still unsure if I can make the compressor brace work with the further back mounting point and I will have to source a larger diameter washer to cover the larger hole since the mounting boss that I will have to use if it will clear the valve covers is a small 3/8" bolt. I thought about just not even having the brace since you have the compressor bracket mounted to the water pump and the head but this brace goes from intake to the top of the compressor I think its more for stabilizing the compressor since all that holds it is the four bolts on the bottom. Yep that was always my goal, look stock sound stock for the most part and idle like stock. The 112* LSA should give a nice rumble to the exhaust but the engine should still idle stock smooth. The engine vacuum should still be between 15" and 18" at idle as well. Its also why I picked out the 6" round muffler like OE from magnaflow in their XL 3 chamber, just have to source a 2 1/2" inlet and outlet version as I have 2 1/4" as I had planned on running a replacement 2 1/4" tail pipe. I have since decided might as well just run it all 2 1/2" from the merger of the Y pipe straight out to the tail pipe. I asked jegs yesterday via chat if my order shipped from Manley for my pushrods and they told me that they havent got the tracking information from Manley yet but the customer service rep said he emailed Manley and will email me when he hears back. 24 hours later and nothing. If I dont see information on my pushrods shipping before midnight I will be flooding their customer service chat with inquires daily on my pushrods. 3 months have been long enough of a wait someone needs to light a fire and get me my product which jegs already took my $244.63 for the order back on Aug 5, 2020 which means it is becoming excessive for me to not have them after 3 months. Good progress. And you are right, powder coating will chip, so it is easier to touch up paint. And I like the plan to make it look stock but RUN! And I think it will. But it is a shame that it is taking so long to get the push rods. But I think you mean Aug 5, 2021. Surely the parts are from the US so they shouldn't be sitting on a ship. And I know that there is a shortage of drivers, but still... Hope you rattling cages will do some good.

I agree with Rusty. But will add that a clogged air filter will also raise the CO levels, but it would have to be really clogged to be up that much. So I'm going to guess it is the choke as it might have stuck shut or not have been properly adjusted after the rebuild. (I don't change the choke's settings in a rebuild if it was working correctly.) As for a computer, it should have one if it has the California emissions system. The pages below are from the 1981 EVTM (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1981 EVTM) and show that the CA-spec 302 and 351, which was an M in '81, had a computer. I don't know where it was on an '81, but in '82 they were under the driver's seat. And there is an O2 sensor, engine temp sensor, MAP sensor, etc. Any of those can cause problems.

Nice looking truck. By "built" you mean for someone, right?

On the page at Documentation/Electrical/Tachometers you'll find the schematic and statement below.

Yikes! I'd forgotten about that approach to things. The best way is to use the menu and go to Documentation/Manuals & Literature. Or you can bookmark it. And thanks. Glad it is helping.

Hi Gary, In BigBrother, the motor is not the original one (I swapped it around 2013, was rebuilt in 2015). It is a 351w 4v. Went to NAPA Auto Parts in order to renew distribution cap and rotor, the guy asked me if "code H or G". Since the motor is a replacement one (and the VIN certainly went out during the restoration), can I assume that a 4v is necessarily a Code H? Thanks! Yes, you can tell him that it is an H.

Seems like you are making good progress, Rusty. Getting all the grease and grime, as well as paint, off is a big help in the painting/coating process. I assume the A/C bracket is steel, but if you are dealing with aluminum I wouldn't do the penetrating oil step. From experience, cast aluminum has lots of open pores that absorb oil, and it'll bite you when you try to paint. And when powder coating, since you have to raise the temp of the part up to 400 degrees, the oil flows out and ruins the finish. In fact, the only way I know of to get rid of it is to bake the part for an hour at 400 to burn off the oil, and then wash it with brake cleaner. Anyway, if your part is steel you should be fine with just a wash with brake cleaner before painting. And I'm sure you know that. As for the heads being incognito, the truck is going to surprise people, and they'll be amazed and how much power the EFI gave it.

It'll draw some. But if it has power all the time then the ignition switch isn't the problem.

Yep, them! Last year when we rented a Jeep in Ouray we drove north to Ridgeway and picked up 62 west. A few miles out you pick up Last Dollar Road to the south, which comes out near Telluride. And just after we crossed over the summit we met a guy in a rented minivan that wanted to know if he could make it on up. By then he'd already done the hardest part, which wasn't hard at all in comparison to what we did this year. But still, why not rent a Jeep?

I don't know anything about repairing gears. But have you tried Midwest Transmissions? They have always had the tranny parts I've needed.

Well, if you don't have leaks then that's certainly progress. And even if you do have leaks it might be two steps forward and one back - which is still progress.

I doubt it got ruined. Probably just a connection issue. Like maybe your ignition switch didn't come all the way back to Run. That happens a lot in cold weather as the grease in the switch and the linkage gets stiff. There are multiple contacts in the switch and the ignition contacts always seem to make before the accessory contacts do. So it isn't unusual for a lot of things not to work if you don't roll the switch back a bit more.

It is a loooooong way around, Chris. Better yet, take Last Dollar Road. It cuts off a lot of miles and is easy. I saw minivans on it last year.

That's my thinking as well, Dane. Thanks!

Oh! Ok, so the top works now?

Even quoting your post I don't see anything regarding a picture other than the one of the seatbelt mount. I assume it was of the center stack?

Bill - That looks good! And the unit sounds good. But the way you embedded the video doesn't work. I'm embedding it, below, but I get the "embed code" by clicking "share". Then I tick the "Message is in HTML Format" box in the upper left. And paste the embed code in.

Guys - Bill/85lebaront2 sent me several docs that I'm in the process of scanning and have been wondering where to put them. Here's what he sent: Kelsey Electric Brake Controller Installation Instructions 1990: F-Series Operating Guide; F-Series Owner Guide; F-Series & Bronco Maint Sched & Log; Warranty Info Booklet 1995 F-Series Maint Sched 1996: F-Series Owner Guide; F-Series Maint Sched Some may wonder why include them in a Bullnose repository, but they have info that could be helpful to many of us. For instance, Bill's Darth is basically a '96 inside. And I have a ZF5 and D60 in Big Blue and they are covered in those doc's. Plus the E4OD in Dad's truck. So I'll include them as they could be very useful. But the question was where? We've heretofore had the Manuals & Literature page (Documentation/Manuals & Literature) that just included 1980 - 86. But we already had the '95 and '96 brochures on the site. So I decided to expand the M&L page to go out to '96 and that's where I'm placing the later stuff. And I put the Kelsey brake controller down below that in Other Publications because it isn't year-specific. Hope y'all like that, but it gives me an easy place to put things. And it should make it easier for you to find things. But please let me know what you think? And if you have a Better Idea then please let me know.

I probably have some. If you don’t find them by the time I get the docs scanned I could include some in the box. Scanned the 90 Operating Guide and Owner Guide. Will see if I can get them on the site this afternoon.

I think that the stiffness in the lock is probably due to the way the lock linkage was assembled, or disassembled. I say that because in Big Blue's case the linkage was slightly bent and was rubbing other things, making it hard to lock/unlock. And, it depended to some extent to whether the window was up or down. And David/1986F150Six was told that many shops bend the linkage when they take it off, causing things to not work well when reassembled. So I do think it is something they did in disassembly and/or reassembly. But, it may well be difficult to get them to own up to it. However, it is worth a try as it won't cost anything. If they don't or won't fix it, you should be able to do it yourself. If the passenger's side is working then the linkage is probably "right", so you could compare. In my case I had to put the linkage from both sides together to see where the wrong bend was. But it was pretty obvious. Having said that, I doubt the door locking problem with the electric locks is related if the switch on the passenger's side works it just fine. And, if the electric lock can lock or unlock the driver's side then the problem you have with the key must be associated with the key lock linkage and not the electric lock linkage. Most of the linkage is in common, but there's a bit that isn't, and it seems like that is where your problem is. Good luck!

Nice, but $27K? I think that is way too much for that truck. But it'll be interesting to see what happens.