Gary Lewis

What carb are you going to use? I ask because I have the one on Big Blue that I made and it works well with an Edelbrock. But since it was designed for that carb it might not work on another. I hope to go EFI in the winter, so you could have this one if you'd like. Here's a pic of it, but you can read about its development starting here.

I've not used Colorbond so I don't know about a sealer. But I have used SEM. All of the interior of Big Blue, save for the dash, has been coated in it. And it is holding up very well. It isn't as good as original, but it is pretty good.

Yes, it is extremely clean. Very well done. Would be a shame to have it coated in oil and salt! But good question about heat. I'd guess resistance strips, but don't know. However, you may be right about the batteries, although they would only produce heat when the vehicle is moving. So maybe both?

Nice. But another one with 35" tires and no mention of regearing. That makes them slow to accelerate, way too high geared.

Man, you got SERIOUS! I could do the same on Big Blue, but I'd have to fix the cab corners and bedsides before painting, so I'm living with it. But you are on a mission.

That's good advice. So check the battery. And then, if the battery is fully charged, start checking connections. And the easiest way to do that is with a trouble light since you can put it on and then go turn the key. I'd connect it to the starter relay's output side and see if it lights strongly when you turn the key to Start. If it does, connect it down at the starter and see if it still lights. And then, if that fails I'd go to voltage drop testing. You may ask what that is, but we have a good writeup on how to do it at Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. Somewhere along the line you probably have a bad connection, and this testing will find it.

Glad it helped. Please let us know how it fits. And glad to have that explanation to refer to later.

Corey says he was running a Group 34 in his truck, as explained here. And here he explains that it is a 34/78. Are they the same?

I'll guess it is the pickup in the distributor. They have been known to fail and give weird symptoms, including failing when hot and starting again when cold. But I think I'd try the cap and rotor first. Easier and cheaper. Then I'd do the pickup.

I don't recognize it either. But agree it should have numbers, and probably a Ford oval, if for a Ford.

Gary, please check to see if this [E1TZ-98758-E] is correct for this application. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254189860791 Yes, I believe that is the correct cable. However, two things. First, Shaun asked for a throttle cable bracket. Second, this doesn't say it fits an '86 460. However, I'm pretty sure nothing changed between '85 and '86 and I cannot find one that says it does fit an '86 w/a 460. So I believe the MPC is wrong and I believe this does fit.

I'm not sure I understand your second approach, but since you say you can't get heat shrink on it I don't think I'd use it. I actually do basically the same thing as your first approach, although not with the Solder Seal Wire Connectors as I've not tried them. Instead, I take a crimp-style butt connector and cut off the insulation. Slide the glue-lined heat shrink over the wires and then crimp the connector on. Then I solder the wires into the connector, slide the heat shrink over that, and heat it up. Makes for a permanent connection that is waterproof. And it makes for a much smaller connection than trying to twist the wires together and then solder them. As for the 3M Scotchlocks, I will NOT use them for all the reasons you stated. And while they make a weatherproof version, I like my approach much better.

How's this? It is on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges:

I'm not at all saying that the factory info is perfect. But I believe it is a lot closer to perfection than lots of the info floating around on the internet. And when Ford runs the same gear ratio info for several years in a row, and I've been able to confirm it hands-on, I'll take it any time over the "info" found elsewhere. But if someone has info that is counter to the factory stuff, please let me know.

I'll see if I can add the reverse ratio to the spreadsheet. And the T-18 does have 7.44 reverse ratio, and Poncho Loco should have a T-18. Plus, the only trucks that got the T-19 had the diesel or the 460. Smaller engines always got the T-18, and the "F" does indicate T-18, as shown on Documentation/Specifications/Transmission Codes. As for the F150hub link, I'm sorry but I have a hard time believing them when their T-19 page says: That's not true about the 460's as the factory literature (Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Transmission & Transfer Case Ratios) says they had a 5.11 1st gear and it doesn't appear to vary by 2wd or 4wd. And that has been borne out by what I've found on T-19's I've been around. In addition, their chart shows the T-19 to have a 6.96:1 reverse with the 460 when it was actually 5.63 - which I've also checked out on T-19's from Bullnose trucks. As for Poncho Loco's axle code, the factory axle ratio info (Documentation/Specification/Axle Ratios) says that a "16" is for 3.50's.

Yes, you'll see the new posts. As will I since I'm subscribed to everything. But not everyone knows to do one or the other of those things, so may miss things.

I slid under my brand new '69 Super Bee and was cut on a "grease plug" on the steering linkage. Upon closer inspection it was a zerk fitting with the head knocked off. Chrysler had purchased fitting with the check ball in the base and serrations around the neck. They supposedly greased the car at the factory and then knocked the heads off. Why? It took them time to do that, and there was no need to do so. So Ford wasn't the only one with a Stupider Idea.

Yep, I used those spreaders on a bowtie 350. Worked good.

David says he has a gift for finding things. He certainly does, but that gift seems to extend to spending other’s money. DAHIK

Man, things are flying off the shelves!

Hmmm? Seems suspicious, right?

Welcome, Dane. But I hope we don't lose sight of some of the things I moved. I'm wondering if we should put new things on the main page and then move them into the folders after people have had a chance to see them? For instance, December Truck Of The Month Nominations is currently in the TOM folder. Should it be in the main section and pinned for the couple of weeks it is active, and then moved into the folder? Ditto each month's TOM polling thread. We could create the nominations thread when the last month polling is done and the winner announced. Move the polling thread into the folder and pin the nominations thread in main section. That way we'd only have one TOM thread in the main section at a time, but it would be easily seen. We could do the same with announcements about the forum or website, and other such things. Thoughts? (John/Machspeed, the TOM is your area so you get to decide, but let's see what the others say.)

My Chinese actuators were from Amazon, and they wouldn't even try to move the linkage. After that happened on the first one I pulled it and put the other new one in. Same thing. So I tested them against the old ones I'd taken out of another truck. I have a small vise and I sat it on the bench, clamped the link of one of the new actuators in it, held the other end, and gave it power. It tugged on the vise but didn't move it. Same thing with the other new one. Then I tried the Motorcraft ones. Wow! They moved the vise like it was a rag doll! You can read my testing here. But Scott shared a link several posts prior to that with the actuators he bought, and they work fine. Apparently there are good ones and bad ones out there.