Gary Lewis

That's awful! I've got to check the ones on BB.

That's really strange. Somehow your I terminal is getting power from the main battery terminal w/o the relay being pulled in. Let's try something. Move the big wire to the starter onto the big output terminal along with the signal wire to the starter. Basically you are going back to the original wiring but adding the signal wire. It should work just fine, and if there is any feedback from the starter on the signal wire it'll prevent that from pulling in the pump. And, speaking of the pump, put the blue wire back on the I terminal for the test. In this configuration you are still getting the extra power of the PMGR starter, but you will still be using the heavy duty starter relay.

Ok, I think I'm set for another round on the harnii, but only tomorrow afternoon 'cause we have errands to run in the morning. As for that engine, I didn't realize Ford had an engine similar to the Chevy W-block. Must have been a monster with that compression and cam. Wow! Hydraulic wipers? And a crank-mounted pump? Interesting. But removing the stops on the AFB surely required some feathering of the throttle. I did that on the WCFB on my W-block and it would fall on its face with too much throttle. Basically it didn't help, but gave me the opportunity to play a bit. Maybe your carb was smaller in comparison to the size of the engine than mine vs the 348? I think my WCFB was 500 CFM?

Here's your picture rotated. And from what I can tell the relay is oriented normally. But do you have the battery cable, and the one to the starter, on the front terminal? And the smaller wire to the starter on the rear terminal?

Bill - I don't have any, but I hope you find it. And I'm glad you posted here 'cause someone may have some they are willing to give you.

You didn't answer the question about the relay being mounted the wrong way 'round. I'm asking because the I terminal is electrically connected to the terminal that is typically connected to the starter. So if you have the relay oriented differently then you might have connected to the starter's terminal instead of the battery's terminal. Does that make sense? And if it is oriented normally then I think there is another problem besides the relay being bad. It was working correctly before you re-wired - right?

Well, things are starting to take shape. I removed a number of wires today, including the headlight, marker lamp, and turn signal wires. And with Bill's help I've identified all of the connectors including some that can be removed, along with their wiring. So in the near future I'll have this bag of snakes pared down to something reasonable. But, I thought I should pass on a few tricks I've been using to identify circuits. First, the '96 EVTM has a diagram for many of the connectors and that diagram shows the wire color and circuit number on a by-pin basis. But there's no way to search the EVTM as I have it in paper form, so I needed a way to at least get it pared down to a section of the EVTM. Fortunately in many cases I've been able to find either the wire color or the circuit number in the Standard Wire & Color Code document (Documentation/Electrical/Standard Wire & Color Code). Ford has been very consistent with their wire colors and circuit numbering, so that got me to the right section of the EVTM and I was usually able to find the circuit.

Ok, let me address those: 140: That circuit is from the transmission to the backup lights, and I already have that circuit connected to the ZF5. So why would I need it here as it doesn't go to the ECU that I can see. 298: Ditto 140. 784: I have the 4wd signal from the transfer case and will be feeding that signal to the ECU for Low Range. The t-case grounds in 4wd and that's what the ECU is looking for. But I don't need this whole connector, just the wire going to the ECU. 210: I already have the signal from the t-case that causes the 4wd light to come on. So I think I can do away with C103 and all the wiring for it save for the LB/BK wire, which will be taken to the LB wire/210 circuit. Yes?

Bill - I wish I had some, I'd send it to you. But there won't be as many viewers of your post here as if you were to start a new thread in the main section. Lots more will see it there and it won't cost anything. But you might give them some idea of how much you need.

Bill - Next question. I'm looking at the pinouts on C103, which appears to be essentially for the transmission, and don't believe that I need it. Here are the pinouts and circuits, and the only one in question is Ckt 15, the Transmission Range Selector. Oddly enough the 96 EVTM shows that circuit on this page for the ECU, but when you go to Page 30-1 it isn't there. Is it needed for a manual transmission implementations? I have the ECU set up for a manual tranny.

Then I'd have to rewire something that is already working. If the intake has to come off the A/C compressor can stay on. So if I just use a male/female 1/4" connector to join the 96's DG/O compressor sense wire to the 85 compressor control's BK/Y then I can easily pull the engine harness. However, I just spotted the statement in the 85 EVTM that the 8500 lb and up trucks didn't get the snubber diode. Doubt the ECU would be very happy about that, so I'll have to add one.

Perfect! Thanks! It is C106, and it does go through C101 to the high pressure cutout switch and then to the clutch. But, since I'm running the 85's system I don't need this bit as the 85 will control the compressor. I'll just need to tie the DG/O that's sticking out of the engine harness to the clutch circuit so the ECU knows when the compressor comes in. But, having just looked at the wires sticking out of the harness, in addition to the DG/O and R/Y there's a black and gray/white. I'll have to figure out what those are at some point.

Two thoughts. First, any chance the key was left on? Second, there should be a blue fuse link (T) on the I terminal of your starter relay. It feeds the fuel pump circuit. Pull it off and see if that makes the pump quit. If so, and it should, that means your I terminal is hot at all times, and it is only supposed to be hot when cranking. Two thoughts there. First, some starters have a jumper on them from the large terminal to the small terminal. If yours had that it needs to be removed. (But if it was there the starter should have spun when the power hit it.) Second, is there a chance your starter relay is mounted upside down, with the small terminals up? That would mean the terminal nearest the battery is probably wired hot at all times, which also lights up the I terminal.

Bill - I need some help. I think I've figured out all of the wires and connectors I have "hanging out" save for this one. There is only one Red/Yellow wire in it and it goes into C101 and therefore out into the engine harness. I can't figure out what it is. Any ideas?

Another reason to stay off it. (And, I think I can change the connector on the one I ordered to make it work.)

Strange. Doesn't appear to fit any of the trucks, in spite of the "T" in E6TZ.

I just paid ~$20 for one for Big Blue's "new" '96 system, and it doesn't fit. That one will. But I'm not going into competition with Larry.

At $200 I'd think about it vs a $20 can of SEM and a $400 new one, knowing the NOS one is likely to crack soon and the new one probably won't. But at $2000 I think they are smoking some serious stuff.

I won't hold my breath, and IIRC it is turned off in the EEC. But I thought I'd leave the wiring in place, just in case. However, Darth runs fine w/o it, so I'm not too worried about not having it.

$32K??? Wow! Hard to believe. Why put that much work and money into it and then sell it?

Welcome, Billy. Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we knew the name of the town or the zip. (We don't want exact addresses.) Share some pics with us?

Yep, it is all new. As is most of the EFI stuff. Should work quite well.

As for what I did today, I took the engine harness apart and took out some of the systems I'm not using, like EGR, and then installed it. As of now the injectors, TPS, IAC, ECT, & oil pressure and coolant temp for the gauges are now all connected - as far as the engine harness goes. I'll still have to connect the oil pressure and coolant temp for the gauges through the main harness and then to the gauges. I think I'll use a spare C325 connector to do that. However, I left the misfire sensor wiring in the harness, but don't have the sensor nor the connector. So I'm just going to coil it up and secure it near the front of the engine. And I don't have the connector to the A/C compressor. While I'll still be using the '85 system to control it the computer wants to know when it comes in or cuts out, apparently to adjust the idle, so I have some wiring to do there as well.

Big Blue has a complete new 1996 system, with new tanks, new FDM's, new lines, etc. So, there shouldn't be a problem - right?

Yep, no resistance. That's why that resistance wire had already been cut out. But I unwrapped down to S160 to make sure. As for connectors, there will need to be a big discussion on that - soon. I need to figure out what I have first and how many terminals I need in each. I don't want to do as I did on the passenger's side and get it together in a way that it can't easily come out. That was a pain.