Gary Lewis

Congrat's!!! But now you know one of the main reasons I went with a later model master - the ability to screw on a cap that won't leak when I pressurize the system to bleed it. Works a treat. And, the plastic cap doesn't dribble like the metal one does. Plus you can see if you need more fluid. And it doesn't rust. Anyway, I'm glad you found your bleeder tubes. But more importantly, that you now have brakes, and good ones no less.

Got quite a bit of testing done today, and it all tested correctly. In fact, as shown below, I got all but three connections tested, and they are: The two wires for the misfire sensor which haven't been connected as I'm waiting on the labels to come in and want to slip the labels over the wire before soldering the extension on. The single PTO wire, which just comes out of the ECU connector and doesn't go anywhere so it didn't seem reasonable to say I'd tested it. In fact, I don't know if my ECU has that feature built in, but I thought I'd try it anyway. However, I'm not sure what it even does, so... Also I ordered some 10A 100V rectifier diodes today, one of which will go on the A/C clutch circuit to protect the ECU. I measured the clutch current draw at 3.9A, so these diodes should be able to handle the back EMF and protect the ECU. As I think about it, there is a bit more testing I can do before installing the whole thing. For instance I can add power to the PDB and see that all the relays work as they should. I tested the ECU power and fuel pump relays today, but I can easily check the horn, backup light, and fog light relays. And if anything needs to be changed, now is the time. Hopefully the labels will come in early tomorrow and I can button up the wiring and then tidy things up with convolute and tape. Maybe it'll be time for some pics then.

The star means it is NLA, as explained below. And it looks to me that they actually did away with the 3290 E0-T spring and replaced it with the 3485# E3-R spring. I'm guessing that there just wasn't enough demand for the 3290# spring to warrant having it.

Yes. Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Front Suspension then the Part #'s tab, Springs tab, Cross Reference Chart tab. (Man, that stuff is hidden! )

I doubt it is stainless. Maybe a light galvanizing? Most of the steel ones were painted, and painted black. After all, it is a Ford and you can have it in any color you want - as long as it is black. But I understand what you are saying about the temp. Perhaps a silver? As for taking it for a ride, I'd do it. The air cleaner comes off easily to finish it up.

I don't see that in what I said. But in any event, you are right.

It is worth a try. Good luck!

Larry - I agree with what you are saying. But I don't understand the "Look again." I don't think I said anything contrary to what you said. And what you said applies to both schematics. What am I missing?

I thought this sounded familiar. But you are just doing the introduction. Good for you.

I'm free! No, you couldn't make that show today. And probably shouldn't. But I'm not sure I want to identify with Captain Peacock. Maybe Mr. Grainger? Or Jug Ears? (Mr Cuthbert Rumbold.) Perhaps Mr. Lucas? Hard to believe that the last episode of the regular series was filmed in '85 and we moved there in '87. No wonder that it seemed so real to us, especially since my office was literally across the mews from Selfridge's, and I saw a lot of AYBS in there.

Now that makes sense!

Looks good! I think that is going to work well.

I can see why you are considering selling.

Glad you got the sticker! Thanks, Thomas. And glad the truck started, but I understand your concern since you don't know why it didn't start before. That would worry me also.

Ok, I think I can picture it now. Man, that would be a lot of work to fix! And unless you have a lift it would be hard on backs and necks.

That is a bummer! But I watched the video a couple of times and I'm not sure I understand what I'm seeing. At one point it looks like I'm seeing two things moving, but I'm not sure what they are. Can you walk me through it?

I'm missing something. How does looking at an '95 F450 column prove that a '96 > 8500 lb truck does not have a clock spring? You do have me curious. As for what I did today, I took 2 steps forward and 1 backward, but that should still count as progress. Right? I got 8 more wires run between the ECU and the PDB. That leaves me 4 more wires to run that I know of - 2 for VSS and 2 for the misfire sensor. And I've actually run the misfire sensor wires from the PDB end to the ECU but haven't connected them there. That's because I need to label them and I've run out of label tubing, and the order won't be in until Friday. As for the 1 step back - I discovered that the labels on 3 of the ignition wires are wrong. As it happens those wires are to be shielded, and the shielding came in today. So I pulled the pins out of the ECU connector and worked the shielding over the wires and down to the place near the PDB where the original shielding was cut and soldered it to the drain wire with the original shielding. I also put shielding over the 2 misfire wires and connected it to the original shielding's drain wire as well. So now I'm just waiting on the label tubing to come in so I can finish up the wiring. However, I could start testing. On another front I have a date for the bucket seats to be rebuilt - Juneish. But that gives me time to look up the codes, contact SMS to get samples, and get everything nailed down before taking them to the guy - in Kansas.

There's no connection from Pin 6 of the later speed control, which is Common Return, and Pin 10 which is Ground.

Yes. And my 5.0HO base is steel as well.

Note that the 5.0HO air cleaner I have is a dual-snorkel unit. But obviously there were single-snorkel ones for the non-HO engines. And I'd bet that both take the same air filter.

I'm not seeing a table in the 1980 dealer facts book that shows the various GVWR's. But I can see your axle ratings. There's a Payload Package Selector table, and in the Opt column there's a 2041 (4500) selection for the F350's front axle and a 2834 (6250) rear axle option. Plus a note that says "Front and Rear GAWRs will in all cases sum to a number equal to or greater than the GVWR for the particular vehicle." And on the page for Options the Snow Plow Preparation Package says that a 2041 kg (4500 lb) front axle is included.

Right on both counts. Well-spotted, as the Brits would say. (I keep thinking of someone with a paint brush applying daubs to a canvas when I hear that.)

My 5.0HO air cleaner's lid is 15 7/8" while the 351HO's lid is 17 7/8". But I confess that I've not played with a 300's air cleaner, so I think you are right that the V8 snorkels had the same pattern but not the ones used on the 300. Sorry.

Yes, it was creative. And it wasn't just for the On switch, but also for all the other control inputs, like Off, Set, Resume, etc. They liked the design so well that they continued to use it at least until '96 after apparently introducing it in '80 as the part numbers start with E0. Same resistor values for all the switches, so same voltages sent to the speed control to decode - even though there were several iterations in the speed control unit itself. But it isn't easy to see that they used the same design as they redrew the schematic for the later years. Here's the Bullnose schematic on the left and the '96 schematic on the right. The only difference is the addition of one more clock spring for the "return", as discussed. (That, and forgetting to show how power is supplied as they mistakenly show it applied to the box around the schematic. )

As said last night, I'm guessing you didn't "calibrate" the ignition switch when you replaced it. Go to the Ignition Switch tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and you'll find the instructions from the factory shop manual. When not properly adjusted they don't always pull all the way in when you turn the key, so the truck won't start. Or they might not turn all the way off. But the adjustment procedure will fix that - assuming that's the problem.