Gary Lewis

I like it! Nice installation.

Interesting! It is doubtful it was original on a truck. Only the 351HO and 460 air cleaners had steel bottoms from what I’ve seen. But there was a smaller Mustang air cleaner that had a steel bottom.

Good luck. That aluminum is not very fun to work with as it is brittle. I did the cutting on a steel lower and it wasn't bad. And use washers on the inside to spread the load. With the vibrations of the six I'm guessing the bottom will crack pretty quickly if you don't. They cracked pretty easily on the V8's, so...

I agree - the old damper looks rough. And the new one looks just like the one I put on Big Blue. I'd find TDC and see where the marks on the damper go.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. But I don't know much about converting an OBS to a Bullnose. But I know some on here have done it, so hopefully they'll chime in soon. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

Yep! And I believe that EFI with OBD-II can be maintained much easier in the coming years than carburetion. (Yes, it is much more complex, but as the gurus die off and leave us with computer jocks...) Anyway, it does feel good to have that part done. Getting C305/305A figured out took a bit as my wire colors don't match those in the EVTM, and the '85 EVTM doesn't provide pin-outs on the connectors like the '96 EVTM does. So I had to do a bit of testing to make sure I had it right. But I'm not doing much "inside" the dash. I'm doing it all on the bench as the ECU's connector will go through the hole in the firewall. I just have to make sure that I have enough slack in the cabling. PROGRESS!

Well, no pics tonight as there's not a lot to see. But I did get a number of wires run. In fact, I count only 29 wires left at the ECU end of things, although there are probably a different # of wires at the PDB end. It'll be interesting to see how that plays out. I did wire up all of the "inside" connections, meaning those in the cab. That included Brake On/Off to both the ECU awa the speed control module. And the connections from the horn pad for both the horn itself awa the speed control. But I need to document a change I made to the speed control wiring. Page 31-1 of the 1996 EVTM shows that the DG/O wire runs from the horn pad to the speed control module and is the "Switch Return". But the Bullnose trucks have the third wire from the horn pad grounded via the steering column, so I grounded the DG/O wire near the speed control module. Hope it doesn't mind. Also, I think I found an error in the '96 EVTM. Page 150-2 says that the O/R wire from the ECU going to the distributor should go through Pin 19 of C101. But instead it goes through Pin 25, which is the pin right above 19. And I'm quite sure the wiring hasn't changed since it was in the '96, so I'm pretty sure the EVTM is wrong. Last, I need to shield the G/O & O/R wires. The EVTM shows them shielded, so I ordered this shielding. Should be in on Wednesday.

I don't live in the Rockies, but I took Big Blue there last September. I have him tuned for here, which is 700', but took him to 13,000'. He didn't idle very well, but ran ok. However, I'm sure he'll run better with this EFI on him.

Yes, red is probably the best way to go. And a fine-thread bolt will have a higher max torque rating, so that's a good idea. Clamp it as hard as you can. I'll look forward to your report.

I would use Loctite Orange rather than Blue. But yes, that would work instead of a lock nut. And any way you can get it to tighten would work. But you do need to torque it pretty tight as there's a lot of force right there. I reamed it like the TSB says and got a nice tight fit, and that took the popping out of it.

I agree it is "just about always" better to do it right the first time. And if you have the time to do it that way now then you'll save time in the long run. But it would be easy to get cold air to it the "quick and dirty" way.

Good point, I forgot about the heat issue. So you could do it right and go the other way. Or do it quick and dirty for now and plumb up the cold for the summer. Me, I'd do it right.

You are now on the map. And yes, that one is in the TSB. It is a pain, but getting the bolt in was easier than getting the nut in, and then tightening it. I got the nut in by hot-melt gluing it to a screwdriver so I could hold it and turn the bolt to catch it. Easy enough, but tightening was a bit harder. I wound up placing a blank 3/8" lathe bit between the flat of the nut and the front edge of the crossmember. It was a tight fit and the bit and nut were hard enough that it wouldn't slip past as I tightened the bolt.

Welcome, Matthew! I remember you! Glad you joined. Nice truck. Bummer on the pot hole damage. But if the rivet is the Huck bolt then that's par for the course. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

I like option 2 better. I think you could put a short snorkel on and get to the cold air opening in the radiator support from there with the hose - assuming there’s an opening on the driver’s side. That way you wouldn’t have to cut a new opening.

Ok, I think I understand about the orientation. As for the thing in the vacuum line, do you mean like in the illustration below? Here's the writeup from the "Other" tab:

There's "pumping" and there's "flooring". Most carbs have a mechanism to force the choke open when you floor the throttle, and that's used for starting if you suspect the engine is flooded. So yes, "flooring" the throttle while starting does change the choke. But just "pumping" it w/o going to the floor shouldn't.

I think pressurizing the radiator would be my first choice. I'll bet over time you find a leak, but it may take a while to find it. The kits are fairly expensive from what I've seen, but I think the parts stores "rent" them. If not, I've considered making one out of an old radiator cap. As for the air cleaner, I think you are on the right track. But I am not sure I'd rivet the snorkel to the base. Instead I've used 1/4-20 screws, nuts, and washers to spread the load. And do you really need to cut a new hole? Most of the air cleaners I've looked at have a tab that orients it with the carb, but you could bend or cut that tab to let you orient it differently and get the existing hole pointed where you want it. The ~1" hole is for another sensor, the Cold Weather Modulator IIRC. You can see how the system works on the Operation tab at Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Air Cleaners.

It is hard to tell the condition due to the small size and orientation of the pictures. You can read about how to post pics on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's, but there are two main things associated with posting pics: File Size: You cannot post a pic that is larger than 1MB w/o choosing to "Resize" it. And doing so will then make the pic show smaller on the screen than it might otherwise. So I edit all my pics with Photoshop before posting and get the size down to ~500KB. That lets me post them full screen or anything less. Orientation: When you take a pic with a modern device it encodes the orientation in the metadata in the file. Smart software will read that metadata and reorient the pic before showing it, but our forum's software doesn't do that. So you have to edit the file before posting and orient it the way you want it to show, save it, and then post that file. Now for the truck. I use Hagerty insurance and they have a valuation tool. The tool says that a 1986 F250 Styleside Long Bed SuperCab 4x4 w/a 460 is worth: They back that up with a number of recent sales data, but I will tell you that sale prices vary dramatically across the country. The Pacific Northwest has the best trucks with the lowest prices. The North East has rusty trucks and high prices. And the Hagerty prices don't really reflect that, so they don't mean they are right for your area.

Yep, Jim, that's the right page. And on that page it is easy to find E0TA 5310-AEA, as shown below.

Ahhh! That's probably it. Thanks, Jim. My imagination just couldn't come up with anything.

Excellent! Congrat's!

That would be pretty fancy, Bill. But my mirror gives front & rear camera views awa compass heading and speed via GPS.

Not sure I understand. "Getting the vacuum"? "beet lean idle"?

I know exactly where Eddyville is as I drove through there on I-24 last Wednesday at 6:30. Left Nashville that morning, stopped at the fabric store in Paducah at 9, and made it home to Skiatook by 7. Anyway, you are now on the map.