Gary Lewis

The code is on the interior section of your certification label. Go to Documentation/Specifications/Body Codes - Interior for decoding that bit. But it really is only useful if you find someone that carries the right fabric, and that excludes people like LMC, JBG, etc. But SMS does. You might want to read about them here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Does-anyone-make-the-correct-80-86-bronco-seat-upholstery-tp5932p5949.html

No, the 351HO air cleaner is a single snorkel. And the 460 is a single snorkel, but has two openings with the 2nd one back towards the firewall and it only opens at low vacuum like WOT. But your approach looks like it'll work fine. I think the extra metal may be a plus. What's the diameter of your lid? I'll measure my 351HO lid in the morning and post it. And I think I have a 302HO air cleaner from a Mustang so can measure it as well. What are you going to use to close the other hole? Oh, and all of the snorkels are interchangeable. IOW, You can bolt a longer one where the short one is. And there are several different ones, with the differences being the angle up/down and left/right the snorkel makes with the air cleaner. You can drill out the spot welds and change that bit if you want. I have and have pics thereof in the Dad's Air Cleaner thread on FTE.

Bill - That's exactly the socket I'm using - far left bulb. But the gauge bezel I'm using has SHIFT in there, so I need to change it out. I don't see that the low side of my bulb is connected to anything as I don't have the infernal mileage module. But I can't find where the wire goes so will cut into it at the farthest point away from the bulb and run my own wire from there to the connector going to the ECU. And, while I have you, did you read the bit about the "return" for the speed control's input? The only difference I can find between the Bullnose horn pad and the '96 one is that the "return" is ground on the Bullnose and a non-grounded DG/O wire on the '96. You used a later column, so was your return a DG/O wire or ground?

That's really a puzzle! But then, the MPC is full of contradictions and puzzles. The only two mentions of 9100 GVW are for an E-Series van and this 1981 F350, and even then it is only in the rear axle section, not front axle. So if I were you'd I'd look on the certification label to see what your truck's rating is rather than rely on the Marti report. Oh, and there's no mention of using the E0TZ 5310-U springs on any truck, even though they are listed as available in that table.

You are now on the map. As for the 37's, I kinda doubt they'll fix the electrical gremlins. Seriously though, you should start a new thread in the main section and we can work it there. But my first suggestion will be to "calibrate" the ignition switch with the instructions on the Ignition Switch tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.

You don't have what the transmission is in your signature, but does it happen to be a ZF5? I ask because they have a rattle in neutral with the clutch not depressed. As for the chirp, it may go away with wear. (In "Are You Being Served" speak, it'll ride up with wear. ) I'd give it a while before worrying about it. Anyway, if you did all of that in one day you really had a good day.

Not a bad price, in and of itself, but add on the shipping and it gets a bit more expensive. This one is a 1980 (E0TZ) version, but in '84 they changed it somehow. And I don't know what the changes were.

There are several different harnii for each truck. There's one that runs from the left headlight, across the dash, and out to the right headlight. And there's one that plugs into that one for the ignition and sending units on the engine. And there's one that runs to the rear. Plus add-on ones for things like speed control, backup lights, etc. So you won't find "a" harness for your truck. As for the difference between '85 and '86, there were some significant differences in the fuel pump wiring in that timeframe. But some 85's were wired one way and some 85's another. What part(s) of yours are bad?

Not a bad price, but I don't see that it says what engine it is for. And since each engine series had the oil pressure and coolant temp sending units in different places that means the wire lengths need to be different. So while the way it is wired will be right, you might have to lengthen some of the wires depending on what engine you have.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Interesting. Going from 33's to 37's will drop your RPM from ~2600, assuming you have the ubiquitous 3.55 gears, to 2300 @ 65 MPH. But it'll also drop the torque you put to the ground by about 10%. Are you going to regear? And, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can put you on it w/a city/state or zip.

Yep, that's how I would have done it. And I'll bet you are right that the driveway's slant caused it to shift.

No pics again tonight, but there are now only 12 wires at the ECU end left to connect. In theory that means that I made 34 connections today ((29-12)*2), but there were a few more as some dummy didn't leave connections for power so I had to fix that. Given that, I think I made 37 connections, and my fingers are D.O.N.E. Hopefully I can finish up tomorrow and then start checking things out on Thursday. Speaking of checking things out, here's my cunning plan - but I'd like your input. I'm going to check as much as I can right on the bench. I have the spreadsheet that shows each connection to the ECU and I can put power on each pin and use the test light to see that it goes where it is supposed to go. But "where it is supposed to go" will be only to the connector headed to some sensor, or to a fuse or relay. That will be tedious but with the pinouts on each connector in the EVTM it shouldn't be too bad - unless there are more mistakes. Then I can put power to the PDB and see if the various pins get power when I cause the ECU's power relay to pull in. And I can cause the horn's relay to pull in as well by simulating the horn pad. Does that make sense? Upgrades?

Did you take all 4 body mount bolts out at the same time? I'd leave one side in and do like you show in one pic - raise one side up with a 4x4 under it. That way it is less likely to shift. Anyway, glad you are having fun. I get frustrated when things don't unbolt and bolt back on nicely.

Man, you are having LOTS of "fun" on this quest. But you seem to be getting right along with it.

Yes, usually the wheels will change angle when you drive it - forward. Not backward. On the pics, see the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Cool! Must have been moving pretty good to get the Dodge in the air.

According to our page at Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint there was only one red in '86 - Canyon Red. That's SEM #4002, but as you'll see on that page none of the SEM matches for our trucks are already on the shelf. You'll have to have it mixed, but there's a link to Vinyl Pro on that page and they do a great job mixing it and shipping it to you.

I would hit it with POR-15. Since you are going to cover it you don't need to topcoat it the way you would if it was open to UV, which turns it white. But POR-15 will seal it and even if you get water on it again it won't rust.

Congrat's! But don't buy a SC tag. As I said, my SiL is finding you one.

That's a really nice truck. Sorry you are selling it. What's the plan? Also, you should post the pics and information, inc price, here as many of our members aren't on FB so won't be able to see your listing.

Glad you got it apart. And you are right, some tools aren't needed very often, but when they are they are worth their weight in gold. Kinda rusty on that floor. What are you going to treat it with to stop the rust?

That’s cool! But what do you play them on?

Decent. I like the HighLINER headliner. But I don’t like the speakers on the dash.

Not a bad price, but I wonder what butchering was done to the floor to get those seats in? And if he'll butcher that, what else has he done?

That preload on the steering box can be a big issue. Doesn't take much and you have no feel and wind up chasing it all the time. I'd rather have a bit of play than no feel.