Gary Lewis

Yep, that's what you said. So we aren't trusting sheet metal. Just good old copper, and lots thereof. But I forgot one crucial thing in the to-do list - the O2 sensor cable. Not a big deal and I have all of the bits and pieces, just need to do it. And run the cable for the AEM O2 sensor, although it won't be installed until I weld a bung in, and I want someone better than me to do that. As for testing, what I have tested is everything from the ECU's connector to all of the connectors radiating off of the PDB. But that means that the engine harness and the to-be-built O2 sensor harness haven't been tested. So for peace of mind I need to test them, although presumably the engine was running when the truck was taken to the salvage so the engine harness should be good. However, knowing that injector #1 has both power and connectivity to the right pin on the ECU's connector would be comforting. Ditto the other injectors, ECT, IAC, TPS, etc. So I think I'll do the power wiring changes tomorrow, make the O2 cable, and add the air filter box and the connectors to it. But I'll leave the inlet tubing off as that makes access to the top of the engine a lot better. Then I'll test the power circuits, honk the horn, tap on the brake and see that the ECU gets BOO'd, etc. And once that is done I'll start testing the engine harness.

If it isn't running it ain't worth that. I'd guess $3500 at best.

Excellent!!!

I don't think you said that. And I didn't mean to imply that you did. But you were saying I should ground the ECU to the engine ground at the firewall, so that's why I added that pic. It is a LOT of stuff under the hood. Man, a whole lot. I didn't realize that when I started this. It really makes you think. But I hope I'll like it. As for when it'll be back on the road, I'll say "soon". I'm hoping it'll be in April, meaning in the next two weeks. Thinking while I type, here's what I think I have to do: A minor change to the power wiring to do, which is move the feed from the passenger's side to the new PDB and make a jumper to go from the PDB to the battery isolator. Install the air cleaner box and hook up the MAF & IAT sensors. Should be easy as it has all been together before. Install the intake air plumbing. Again, that should be quite easy as it has been on before as well. Set the timing per Bill's directions. Test the new power wiring to ensure that it won't smoke. I think I can do that by using the lab power supply, which only provides 1A so can't smoke anything. That begs the question of what to do next. Do I go for broke and fire the whole thing up and see if it'll run? Or do I go through and test things that have just now been connected to the PDB/ECU wiring - which has itself been tested. Thoughts?

If you stand still long enough moss grows on you. But that doesn't mean I like it.

I think that is a big help. But now I need to find the macro that is doing that. So, how did you disable it? Perhaps that will tell me what to search for?

Waterpump 83/84 E-F250/350 460 E3TZ 8509-R r/b E5TZ 8509-H

Pretty! But $125 each? Still, they are NOS and there aren't many of those left.

Pretty! And free shipping! Seriously though, not a bad price.

And now for the afternoon report. First the Reader's Digest version: Heat shield & convolute is on PDB/ECU wiring. Ignition module is installed and connected Speed control is connected Grounds are connected But that's too easy. Here's the "album version". (As in Light My Fire.) No pic of the heat shield and convolute, but it is there and the wiring is well protected. As for the ignition module, it is bolted to the fender below the speed control and the relays mounted to the firewall. And by "bolted" I mean that I installed nutserts in the fender, but things were just a bit close installing them: And then things have to be put on in just the right order. First the ICM and then the relays: After that you can install the speed control, which shields the ignition module from radiant heat well enough that I don't think another shield is needed: And, as I said, the grounds are connected. Here's the ones from the ECU connected to the engine ground: (Pic just for Jim. ) Man, when I do this on Dad's truck it is going to happen long before most other things are installed. That would make it sooooo much easier!

Including SC, which I'm working on.

Excellent! Congrat's!!!

I thought "Now, why didn't I think of that???" The bore gauges are far easier to use than bending my tape to fit in there. Which didn't work at all.

Here's a "lunchtime" report. Decided that I needed to get the underdash wiring in place as I might have to move some of the wiring out through the grommet in order to position it where I wanted it. Sure enough, I did, and that means I can now put the convolute and head shield on the wiring under the hood. Here's the wiring in place under the dash and you can see the DTC/OBD-II connector to the right. It is just barely visible from what I think is the driver's position, and the wiring to the ECU isn't. But that wiring will be pulled up a bit when I'm sure everything is correct. And, the brake controller, which is laying under the brake pedal, attaches to the ECU's bracket so it will hide the wiring as well. Oh yes, the DTC connector uses the existing screw that holds the cigar lighter bracket in place and a new hole and sheetmetal nut to the left. It made a very solid mount.

I wonder if those of you in that part of Europe could work together to import things? Or find someone on a base that will do it for you? You could start a thread about it to get others involved. One approach would be to start a thread in the main section entitled something like "Band Together To Import Parts?" And before you post go to the bottom and under Assignment make it Assigned. Then next to Assign use the drop-down to assign it to someone, like I have with Thomas/Silver stallion. Then when you post they'll get an email telling them they have something they should look at and a link to your post. Perhaps you in Europe could get a group up that could help with shipping?

Thanks for the pic! Now I see, said the blind man. But, I have to ask if those yellow connectors are just normal butt crimps? I'm not fond of them as they are open to the elements. We've had quite a debate on here about crimps vs soldering, but we've pretty much agreed that it is best to use a connection that is sealed. My approach is to pull those yellow crimps apart so I have just the metal crimp part. Then I put a piece of heat shrink, the type with adhesive lining, on the wire and crimp the connector on. Next I solder it, but others say not to solder. Then we slide the heat shrink over and shrink it. That way the connection is both solid and weatherproofed.

Glad it is working out for you. And you'll like using a vacuum gauge to tune. As for "It's looking clean", I'd say it is looking "clear" as I can't see a thing. Like I'm looking right through it. Hint: We have a saying - pics or it didn't happen.

I think the 2x4 is an excellent idea. That should get you really close and let you worry about getting the bolts in w/o hitting the bed w/the cab. I'm really surprised that you are having this much trouble. The two cabs I've done dropped down on the frame nicely. So I'm wondering if you don't have a bend somewhere in the frame - or the cab. I found that Big Blue had apparently been in an accident and the front of the frame had been bent. It took a come-along and several HD ratchet straps to get it back where it should be. So in your case I think I would see which bolts go in nicely and then figure out how to move the frame enough to get the other bolt(s) in. If you have to pull the frame rails together then you'll need some way to do that. If you need to move the rails apart, then maybe a hydraulic ram like you can get at HF. But you may want to take the frame past the point where things align to get it into alignment when released. And this can take considerable force. Be careful!

You are now on the map. I don't think I've been to your village, although I have driven from Frankfurt to Luxembourg, so have been fairly close. And I see that you are fairly close to Kaiserslautern. Was the truck brought over by an American serviceman? You should start a thread in the main section to chronicle what you do to the truck. You can keep track and we can follow along.

Welcome, Sebastian! Glad you joined. What part of Germany? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can put you on with just a city/village. Also, we have a sticker that many of us put on our rear window that tells about the forum. Thomas, whom you can reach by sending an email through the forum, has several of the stickers there in Germany and said he would pass them out. To email him click this link and follow the instructions. HOWEVER, our email system is messed up and usually appears that it didn't send the message - but usually does. So I tick the box that says "Send a copy of this message to me" so I know it went. Or, if you are close to Thomas (Silver Stallion) you might meet up with him. You can see his location on the map as well. Nice truck! It looks very clean and straight. Hopefully it drives well.

Nice truck, but I think it is overpriced for what it is. If it didn't have the dent and several other issues it would probably be worth it.

Yes, it is weird. But it is also similar to the problem we are having with the TEST forum - you cannot log in with most browsers on most machines, but you can on some. In this case you see you've read it when looking via some browsers, but not others. And still others won't show the whole page. This is well beyond me. I need to call in help!

I wasn't aware of the Australian lighting difference. Those "sealed" headlights of the bricknose trucks were always a "turnoff", pun intended, to me. I've seen way too many of them half-full of water.

Well folks, this is "interesting". I've been trying several different things and am getting such different results that I'm thoroughly confused. First, Safari on my iPhone X is the only one that appears to work correctly. On my Windows 10 device Chrome gives what is shown on the left below, and Firefox gives what is shown on the right - only the first 3 items show. On the other hand, on my iPhone X Chrome gives the same thing as Firefox on the Windows machine. But wait, there's more! The Chrome display, below left, is not correct. How can it be when it shows that I posted at 5:43 PM but haven't read it? I'm really, REALLY confused. I'm going to try to get my mentor on all things Nabble to tell me what he thinks is going on. But it appears to be really bizarre.