Gary Lewis

Right now the "K" is the problem. Well, actually, the "6" might be a problem as well.

Its in your back yard! Go get it!

Haha.....that's funny, Gary! BTW, I'm not really fond of the way the remaining bracket is attached to the drag link and may have my good friend design me a better bracket for that too! Maybe, I'll just get out of eyes and get into the steering dampner business! Why get out of eyes? Start up a side business. Shouldn't take much time, but could be a big benefit for the others.

I reset the parameters that were preventing adaptive learning and wrote that tune to the ECU. Lowest ACT To Enable Adaptive Learning: From Ben's 246F to the stock -20F Lowest ECT To Enable Adaptive Learning: From Ben's 240F to the stock 150F Then I started it and took it for a drive. The idle AFR seemed better but it'll take time to learn. In fact, the ECT hadn't gotten to 150F before I left so learning wasn't enabled. However, when I got back it appears to have learned something. I'm letting it cool down now so will start it up in a bit and see how it idles then. But I've been looking at the log and it is interesting. The section below is while on cruise pulling a hill at 65 MPH. You can see the colors in the legend to the left, and the values for each parameter are from where the vertical white line is. Note that each trace has its own scale, and the one we are on is TP - Throttle Position. IOW, you can't compare AFR, which is the blue line, to LAMBSE2 which is the white line as they are on different scales. However, AFR, which is from the wide-band gauge, is at 14.66:1 while LAMBSE2, which is commanded AFR for the left bank, is 15.14 at that instant. But notice that Throttle Position is 2.02 and the commanded AFR is headed down almost immediately. Apparently the ECU triggers into the power mode at that throttle position, and it wants the AFR to be 12.36, which is why the white trace heads straight down. And that takes .17 seconds. But note that AFR doesn't change that quickly. It was running at 14.66 and then it goes to 12.64, but that takes .78 seconds. So apparently it takes ~.6 seconds for the change to be seen at the O2 sensor after the computer alters things. Another observation is that the sawtooth of LAMBSE2 is typically from 14.5 to 15.2 when running at steady state of 65 MPH. At the same time the actual AFR is going from 14.7 to 14.8, which is pretty close. And from what I've read you are pretty well "tuned" when the actual matches commanded AFR.

Does this help? I have a few others but I think this is the best.

It says "OBD-II Hardware compatibility: Auto Meter DashLink, PLX Kiwi 3 and Kiwi 4, OBDLink MX+, ELM compatible WiFi and , GoPoint BT1". All of those plug into the OBD-II port and use the power therein to broadcast a signal. The PLX, OBDLink, & ELM are wifi devices, and the GoPoint is Bluetooth. I have a Veepeak VP01, which is wifi, that works with the current app I have. But it is a pain to connect to it from the app because you have to disconnect from your current wifi connection and then connect to the one that device puts out. However, since it doesn't have any internet connectivity the phone reverts back to the home wifi network, and you have to play that game a couple of times to get the connection going. But once you do it works fine. Instead I'm interested in the Bluetooth approach, like the GoPoint BT1, which should work every time you fire the vehicle up w/o quitting your wifi connection. However, Amazon says it is currently unavailable. One of the reviews on the DashCommand says "Works flawlessly with Amazon's recommended Foseal OBD II WiFi dongle." But when I looked on Amazon all the Foseal devices I see are wifi, so I'm missing something. However, there are lots of fairly inexpensive BT dongles, although most say they aren't compatible with iOS so you have to be careful. Given that I called Autometer, who make the DashCommand and talked to Steve. He recommended the OBDLink products, and said "You don't need an expensive one. The MX+ would do." But the MX+ is $140! So we need someone to recommend a BT dongle that works with iOS. In the interim I might give DashCommand a try using the wifi dongle I have if no one has a better suggestion.

I know this doesn't really apply to a stock Bullnose, but does anyone have a recommendation on an app for an iPhone to show various parameters from the vehicle's ECU? Both Bill/85lebaront2 and I have Binary Editor with which we can log anything we want, but that takes a Windows laptop and lots of cabling. Instead, I'm wondering about an app that communicates via wifi or BT with a dongle plugged into the OBD-II port. One I'm wondering about is DashCommand - OBD-II Gauges. Have any of you used it? Or do you have recommendations for other similar products?

There's not much data to project on most Bullnose trucks. Even the ones with EFI don't have a nice interface from which to pull data. It wasn't until about '94 that some Ford vehicles started getting the first OBD-II connectors, which have standardized polling. Before that it was all proprietary and there's very little in the way of scanners to get info from them.

I wouldn't like that thing, probably the projector, on top of the dash. I'm happy with the 747 look. The datalogging on this computer will probably go away when I'm through tuning the EFI. In fact, as I think about it, I'd like to have an app on my iPhone that connects to the ECU and displays various things, so I think I'll start a thread about that...

Looks like a cross between a normal Holley and the Autolite. But keeping the best parts of the Autolite, like the lack of gaskets holding the gas in. Should be good for efficiency.

I use O'Reilly's store-brand brake cleaner for lots of things, and that would be my go-to for that task as well. But I think I'd start with a Nylon brush as a brass brush might score the guides.

The coffee maker was a Keurig and we sat it in the seat when we brewed coffee at 13,000 feet in Colorado last year. Was a nice, brisk day and the coffee sure tasted good sitting on the tailgate. The ticker bit would be fairly easy as there are lots of OBD-II reader sketches for Arduinos. But there are hundreds of parameters that can be read, including inlet air temp to the EFI system, engine coolant temp, and lots of info from the EFI system. So figuring out what to display and controlling when to display it might be a challenge. However, it is easy to set up BT from the Arduino to a phone and then control it via the phone. Or, for that matter, just send the info to the phone for display purposes.

Yup. But what you can't see is the datalogging screen on this laptop that captures a bit more info. The shot below shows some of the info, but AFR wasn't being recorded then, nor was Instantaneous MPG or MPG. And the rear view mirror shows front & rear camera views awa compass heading and true GPS MPH. Plus it records where you've been by lat/long and videos of the camera views.

Add-on gauges? Who would do that? (Glad the AFR gauge is hiding - mostly.)

I'm not sure what the difference is between "adaptive learning" and what you are describing, Bill. But I can see that there are a WHOLE BUNCH of parameters in the tune with "adaptive" in the title or the comment, as shown below. (There are actually two more, but they have to do with the transmission and don't apply to BB.) I think what I will do is to enable adaptive learning tomorrow and drive it a bit to see what happens. That's because what I'm seeing isn't logical as far as I can tell, so maybe the "learning" can fix it?

Bill - There's no learning going on as Ben has it turned off. I think I'll turn it on tomorrow and see what happens. But there certainly are some strange things going on. Maybe that's why?

I wish I could agree, Dane. After seemingly figuring one thing out I've run into something else, and I'm wondering if I caused it. After installing Ben's tune but with the bit mask of 042 added, we took the run to Owasso with no problems. With that I decided to change the Drive and Neutral idle speeds from 728 to 648. When I started the truck up after that the AFR went initially quite lean, like 17:1, and then when it went into closed-loop it went to 12.6:1. I compared the tunes and the only differences were those two parameters, so I put the previous tune back in, which was Ben's tune of Bae 3 with the 042 mask. Started it up and it appears to have gone up around 17:1 although for the first 30 seconds the wide-band doesn't report, although just after it started to report the AFR was at 17 for a second. And then it came down to 12.6 until 111 seconds of the log, at which point it jumped up to 17+, and even reached a high of 19:1. You can see all of that on the chart below, with yellow being AFR, green is RPM, and purple is the idle speed control solenoid's duty cycle. So tomorrow I'm going to go back to Ben's tune w/o the mask change and see what happens there. And I'm going to be meticulous with my notes as I'm quite confused right now.

See the Speedo Cables tab at Documentation/Driveline/SPEEDOMETER GEARS, CABLES, & SENSORS.

The test light should blink as the "voltage regulator" is really just a chopper.

Now you see why I wanted you to read that. It really isn't an open/shut case. Lots of opinions, but not a lot of data.

Yes, grounding the wire to the sender should take the gauge full scale - but it takes several seconds to get there. That's because the gauge is essentially a thermometer and grounding the wire pulls current through a heating element in the gauge, which takes time to move the gauge.

Got a note back from Ben this morning in answer to my question regarding re-enabling adaptive learning. He said "No, I leave adaptive off on almost all tunes I do. Once the MAF is correct the closed loop will have instant correction. If you want to turn it on ok, but this is most likely your bad idle issues. Adaptive learns bad habits with the cam at idle."I asked if I could turn it off if I don't like it, but that I expected to have to clear memory by pulling the power cable for a few minutes, and he said "Yes". But I decided to run it the way it is for a while to see how I like it.However, the check engine light was back on and I cannot figure out why. There are no pending codes and neither BE nor the app on my phone can find anything. So I wrote the "042" mask into both the "SW For OBD2 MIL" and "SW For OBD2 Test" parameters and we took the truck to Owasso and back, which is about 40 miles round trip, with several stops. And the CEL stayed off. So maybe I'm onto something re the mask.But, the idle isn't where I want it yet. Ben left my 648 base idle in, but has 728 dialed in for Drive and Neutral, so I'll drop those 'cause it is idling about there. However, it still runs up to 1500 for several seconds on "cold" starts, so I need to sort that as well. But obviously the issue isn't with adaptive learning as it isn't on now.Anyway, we are getting there!

I have these on Big Blue with 33's: Wheel Vintiques Series 82, Steel, Satin Black, 16 in.x 8 in., 8 x 6.5 in. Bolt Circle, 4 in. Backspace I can get pics if you want re how they look, but you've seen pics before of them.

Ayyyyyy!

Yes, that is exactly what I mean. I'm ok to have other non-automotive things on here. But I'm reluctant to add another pinned topic that takes up more real estate. On the other hand, if it isn't pinned you'll have to go looking for it, and unless it is updated frequently it'll be way down in the list. So, what about creating a new pinned folder into which the FORD Lounge goes? It could be Anything Else, or it could be something else or All Else. And in it people could create their own topics, but we could pin the FORD Lounge to the top. Thoughts, y'all? I'd like to hear from a lot of you about this. Thumbs up or down, and what to call it.