Gary Lewis

I think I took this picture right at the same place: Yep, that's the same place!

Bill - Wasn't there a TSB from GM where they instructed the dealerships to upgrade the power feed wiring on some vehicles?

The resistance wire is under the dash cover above the instruments if I remember correctly. I should be able to confirm that tomorrow if you'd like.

Vivek - The limited info I have is that detonation in the cylinder is reduced with a richer mix. That's because the more fuel in the mix cools things, and because the richer AFR tends to slow the ignition process. Bill - Do you think if I were to change the AFR to 14.0:1 it might reduce the noise in the headers? I'm guessing that the noise is the unburned fuel from one cylinder being lit off by the hot exhaust from another cylinder - in the header. Does that make sense?

Jim - Yes, the plugs look good to me. But I wanted an opinion on whether or not to change plugs and, if so, which way. Bill suggested colder by a notch, but I'm sure he meant not hotter like the plugs I have. Vivek - Remember, I'm running EEC-IV EFI, which controls the AFR tightly. And I have it tuned to give 14.7:1 AFR, not the 14.0 that most EFI units are set to. My theory is that the 460 gives enough power at slightly leaner mix, and that gives better MPG. But it'll still go down to ~13:1 with heavy throttle. Bill - Ok, I'll get some UR6 plugs if I can. But do you think the "header noise" is detrimental? Is there a way to prevent it? It is annoying.

We just saw that about 3 minutes ago! Man, that looks awful.

I can feel your frustration! This sounds like a real problem. Could the Dodge be sold when you get it back? Before the next thing happens? As for Oswald, what needs to be done to get him road worthy?

Yesterday we took a 150 mile trip in Big Blue, and at one point where we were going north with the wind I realized that there is a rumbling noise in the exhaust - pretty much directly under the driver. Janey says there's no noise on the passenger's side. The noise completely goes away when you are coasting, and it is smoother when you are climbing a steep hill and the AFR goes down around 13:1. But when you are cruising and the AFR is running in the high 14's there's a rumble that I can only liken to softballs in a dryer. It isn't a hard hit, and it isn't steady, but it is there consistently when cruising. I've checked the gaskets and they are intact and don't appear to be leaking, so I'd say it is in the headers. Or maybe "header" as Janey isn't hearing it on her side. I've pulled the plugs, as shown in the Spark Plugs Questions thread, and there's obviously no fouled plug. In fact, the plugs look almost new with just a slight tan showing in one area on each plug, so it looks like each cylinder is running well. Have any of you experienced a noise like this in headers? Thoughts on what might be causing it?

You'll see a parallel post entitled Exhaust Noise Questions, which was caused by noise in the headers I've recently noticed. And that prompted me to pull the plugs today in an effort to rule out a fouled plug or an overly-rich mix. But as you'll see, the plugs say the mix is not rich. I'll show two pics of the plugs below, but my question is what to go back with. These are NGK UR5's, but I recently bought UR4's to replace these, and I just discovered that these are one notch hotter than the 5's. So I'm thinking that I don't want to go hotter give the state of these plugs - would you agree? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif The plugs on the left have been turned to show the color, which isn't all that much. And on the right the color is turned away from the camera. But the white is about as white as the new plugs I bought. Comments, please!

Excellent!

Is your vacuum advance adjustable? If so you can dial it back until the detonation stops.

Thanks, Rufus. 👍

Here’s another addition to the Library/Ford Training Manuals list: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electronic-fuel-injection.html.

Ok, now we are getting somewhere. You have an HEI ignition. Second, to show pics please go to Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's in the menu for how to do that. Third, the HEI REQUIRES a lot of current or it will not run correctly. What usually happens is that someone connects the HEI to the original R/LG (not R/LB) wire that supplied power to the coil. But that wire runs through a resistor, as you can see in the EVTM (Documentation/Electrical/EVTMs/1986 EVTM) and is NOT the wire you want to power the HEI. To make the HEI work properly you must install a relay that is triggered by key-on power - like the R/LG wire or W/LB wire. Go to our page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Simplification tab followed by the One Wire tab. There you'll see a schematic for the relay and a description of what wires to use to power it and pull it in.

First, if you are near O Henry Oaks you are on the map. Second, there's something missing in your description. The ECU is what fires the ignition in the EEC-III system. So if the ECU has been pulled w/o something else being put in its place it shouldn't run. The typical thing to do is to buy a blue-grommet DS-II module and the DS-II distributor for your truck. They'll plug into the harness, unless it has been butchered, and you'll have a non-computer controlled ignition system.

I don't know what transfer case you have, but I rebuilt my BW1345 starting here. There might be some tips in that which would help. But I'll also say to be really, REALLY careful as you take it apart and inspect and possibly label everything. The hardest part for me was determining which seal went where and which way it faced. So as yours comes apart take pictures to make sure you know.

The guidelines say we are here to help each other, and if you are making parts to fit these trucks then that could help us. And the interiors of our trucks have lots of plastic parts. Dash and radio bezels, door panels/cards, and corner pieces to name just a few of them. So how big can you make the parts? Of what materials?

Haven't tried WD40, but will now that you show those results. Nor have I heard of those brushes. May try them as well.

Welcome, Pete! Glad you joined. I guess if you live in NC then you aren't the Pistol Pete of Oklahoma State fame? As for the truck, by "modified duraspark conversion" do you mean that someone removed what was surely a feedback carb and EEC-III system and put a DS-II system in its place? That is a very common retrofit, and I've done it myself with great effect.

I see your point about the aluminum heads. However, the tension on those bolts would be in shear and the heads will be very strong in that case. So I think you could heat the header up and tweak it to fit w/o any problem with the heads. However, I don't think the mismatch is that bad. As you said there's 1/4" mismatch on each side and I think the flare will match up with the cone easily.

Today's addition to the library is the 1980 Service Highlights booklet on Engine, Emission & Related Systems. It is listed on the page at Library/Annual Service Literature and, like the one on Climate Control Features, is courtesy of Paul/Rockhauler. Thanks, Paul!

You are on the map.

Would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.

My cross reference from ID # to part # only goes to 1991, or F1. That is F7.

Our guidelines start with "We are a community of people who enjoy the 1980 - 86 Ford trucks and want to help each other use, maintain, repair, and upgrade them." But I don't recall having seen any of his that have been other than posting an eBay advert. Perhaps I'm not remembering correctly as my rememberer is getting flakey, which is why I asked him to show me where he has helped others. Or otherwise to please discontinue the advertising.