Gary Lewis

Just take it one step at a time. Try the other part of the ramp, and it may solve the problem. And Jennifer may be ok with pulling the truck and trailer up into a parking spot but not backing up. Tell her that's what Janey did, just pulled up into the parking spot. But I agree about the extension - it isn't something I'd want on when traveling at speed. Put it on in the parking lot if you need it.

Yes, it is. But the spec's I've found call for UR4's for them as well, which is why I had DeWayne order them. But clearly I shouldn't be going hotter.

I think the regulators were the same for a long time but the brush carriers changes at some point. This page from Quick Start shows a number of regulators, but I think this F795 might be what you want with a 2.5 second LRC. Amazon lists a lot of regulators and most of theirs have the brushes with them. But since you are getting a new alternator you should already have new brushes. On the other hand, if you get the brushes with the regulator you don't have to make sure you get the thermal grease between the regulator and the brush carrier.

Turn up that new bass speaker and fuggetaboutit Can't hear the subwoofer for the noise. But I can sure feel it! As for what I'm trying to achieve on the plugs, I don't want to put used plugs back in. Most of the plugs aren't hard to get to, but #8 is a bear. That raises the question of what plugs to go with. I was thinking these 5's looked like they may have been slightly hot, so when Bill suggested the 6's I thought I'd give them a try.

I have the spark plugs out of Big Blue and the new ones on order, so there wasn't much I could do today but either clean the shop or scan documents. But I hate to clean the shop so I scanned, OCR'd, and put 6 more documents in the library with a total of almost 500 pages: Electronic Fuel Injection - Operation & Diagnosis: This is a 79-page 1987 publication where the one I scanned yesterday is from 1989, so they include different info. And for our trucks this one may be the better of the two. Electrical Systems - Reference Book: This is a 179-page training manual that provides a good background in how the electrical systems on our trucks work. Automotive Electrical Systems Review: This is just a 43-page review of that 179-page manual, but it might be good enough to give anyone a better understanding of the systems on these trucks quickly. Automotive Measuring Devices & Systems: 91 pages which cover the description, selection and use of various automotive measuring devices. It also contains descriptions of pressure, temperature and distance measurement systems applicable to automotive concerns. Fastening Devices & Torquing Techniques: 47 pages covering torque wrenches, bolt strengths, torque sequences, etc. Automatic Overdrive Transmission Operation & Diagnosis: 107 pages that covers the operation & diagnosis of the AOT/AOD transmission. It includes a general description of the transmission and in-depth descriptions of the torque converter, planetary gearset, hydraulic system & schematics, and a diagnostic section. And I revised the pages of the library. The main library page, the one you get to by clicking Library, has Jeff's pic/cartoon, a note on how people can get documents to me and what ones we don't take, and links to the other pages - the ones in the drop-down menu below Library.

Got the UR6 plugs on order via DeWayne today. Hopefully they will be in on Monday, so I spent the day scanning in documents.

Man, this has been quite the saga! I hope this is the last piece of the puzzle.

Looks good. Especially for something that will be buried like that.

Yes, it sounds as if they are looking for a quick purchase from someone that needs the cash. Doesn't sound like they are searching for a truck like yours.

Bummer!

Cool!

Ok, I was thinking that there was a recall or TSB where GM realized they'd put too small of wire in the harness to the HEI. Delta Mark 10B. Still have one of those. Put one on that 72 F250 but kept the points.

I'm running 14.7 - 14.9 AFR at present, so 14.0:1 should be richer. Right? And I was just wondering if that might reduce the noise. But I think all that might do is add fuel to the mix so there's more unburned fuel coming out. After all, right now I'm running right on stoich or slightly leaner and that should be the point where most of the fuel gets burned. Not all the fuel as the process isn't 100%, but if I add fuel by going richer then I'd expect there to be more fuel left over and, therefore, more noise. And if this noise is due to unburned fuel getting ignited by the exhaust from another cylinder then that has to be somewhere after the exit of the headers as all the exhausts are separate until that point. If it wasn't for all of the plugs looking so perfect I'd think that I have a cylinder misfiring and its unburned fuel causing this noise. And that's why I pulled the plugs. But looking at them I can't imagine that any one of the cylinders is misfiring. And another thought - the ceramic coating on the headers could be contributing to this because it that keeps the temp up inside the header. Anyway, I see the exhaust on your Mustang, Bill. Those were large primaries for that engine. Must have been winding it pretty high.

I'd go ahead and order the LRC and install it with the alternator off. I'm pretty sure you'll have belt squeal at times w/o it.

I hadn't heard about the bunk glides, but they would make a huge difference. And the hitch extension might get the boat back far enough, but I don't know if I'd want to drive very far with it on. Just don't know how solid it would be. If your bunks are adjustable then you might be able to remove them one at a time and put the glides on.

To the left of the center of my body. Maybe I'm hearing it through the floor, but more likely the door as the floor has sound deadening, insulation, and carpet on it. And we were on 2-lane roads with no one visible for miles. And yes, my Carterbrock was tuned to match the setup, so it didn't get too lean. I can only imagine what the 4180C did. If Ford had that jetted the way they had the 2100 jetted on my '72 F250 w/a 390 it must have been L.E.A.N. On the 390 you didn't accelerate until the power valve opened. Ease into the throttle and watch the vacuum drop and drop and drop with essentially no acceleration, and then all of a sudden away you went.

I don't appear to have any exhaust leaks. I've checked with a scope and a hose and can't hear any leaks. But the sound isn't ahead of me. It is slightly to my left and below me, which puts it in the tailpipe after the forcing cone. Or maybe right at the forcing cone. But yes, when I had a carb on Big Blue I saw 16:1 routinely as I added throttle to climb a hill or to accelerate slowly. Then the vacuum would drop enough that the springs would push the metering rods up and the AFR would come down to 14:1 or so. So the EFI system is keeping the AFR much more consistent.

Right. The resistance wire is in the dash, so if you can splice in the engine bay you are good.

I think you said on FB that you tried using reverse in the boat from the deepest spot you thought you could go and that didn't work either. Right? And you waded in and checked to see that you had the back tires of the truck as far in as you dared go? Obviously you don't want to drop off the concrete as you might not be able to recover. Is the river at its normal height for this time of year? If so then you might consider mods to the trailer. First, is the axle above or below the springs? If below you could put it above and gain an couple of inches. Second, see if you can adjust the bunks down. Some trailers have them welded but some are adjustable. If yours are adjustable then support the boat on the keel and bring the bunks down as low as you can go w/o the boat hitting the trailer as you bring it back on. Maybe you have a center roller that prevents the boat's bow from hitting the trailer. Third, if the trailer is sound consider replacing the bunks with rollers. That will reduce the friction so you might be able to roll the boat off the trailer. But any of these mods will make the outdrive lower so you'll have to be careful not to hit it on the river bottom.

I think I took this picture right at the same place: Yep, that's the same place!

Bill - Wasn't there a TSB from GM where they instructed the dealerships to upgrade the power feed wiring on some vehicles?

The resistance wire is under the dash cover above the instruments if I remember correctly. I should be able to confirm that tomorrow if you'd like.

Vivek - The limited info I have is that detonation in the cylinder is reduced with a richer mix. That's because the more fuel in the mix cools things, and because the richer AFR tends to slow the ignition process. Bill - Do you think if I were to change the AFR to 14.0:1 it might reduce the noise in the headers? I'm guessing that the noise is the unburned fuel from one cylinder being lit off by the hot exhaust from another cylinder - in the header. Does that make sense?

Jim - Yes, the plugs look good to me. But I wanted an opinion on whether or not to change plugs and, if so, which way. Bill suggested colder by a notch, but I'm sure he meant not hotter like the plugs I have. Vivek - Remember, I'm running EEC-IV EFI, which controls the AFR tightly. And I have it tuned to give 14.7:1 AFR, not the 14.0 that most EFI units are set to. My theory is that the 460 gives enough power at slightly leaner mix, and that gives better MPG. But it'll still go down to ~13:1 with heavy throttle. Bill - Ok, I'll get some UR6 plugs if I can. But do you think the "header noise" is detrimental? Is there a way to prevent it? It is annoying.

We just saw that about 3 minutes ago! Man, that looks awful.