Gary Lewis

You've put Appling on the map!

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. That sounds like a very healthy 300. Show us some pics? As for the map, I'm happy to put you on with a city/state or zip.

I’m running Bronco low-back buckets in Big Blue and really like them. They aren’t quite as comfortable as the captain’s chairs I had in before, but the headrest on the taller chairs hit the rear window and limit travel. And that is really the problem with any kind of buckets in a regular cab. They just can’t quite go back far enough to give as much room as a bench seat. But I still like them.

Or have a bed liner sprayed in? They built up 1-8 - 3/16” of it in the bed of both of my trucks, and it is dense but pliable. And TOUGH. Doubt moisture can get through it.

Not quite. The foam is only about 1/4” thick. So 1/2” with two layers.

The carpet has a heavy backing, but it isn't a solid sheet like vinyl - which is closer to a mass-loaded layer. But then the vinyl usually gets constrained at the edges and it is stiff, so it isn't as flexible and resilient as it should be for sound control. To me an ideal layering would be mass loading, like Kilmat, then a layer of foam like the Noico I used, then a mass-loading layer of vinyl, then foam, then carpet. The foam would decouple the vinyl layer and allow it to work properly.

I considered vinyl for Big Blue given what I planned to do with him. But I had the old carpet that was in pretty good shape, so put it back in. So far the carpet has held up well so I'm glad I put it back in. Carpet should absorb more sound in the cab than vinyl will. But vinyl is heavier than carpet & somewhat limp so should do a better job of stopping sound coming through the floor than carpet, by itself, will. So if you are trying to get the cab quiet you need to think about how each of them help in that quest.

Yep, he is really "going to town" on this.

That’s a good combo. Deadener/foam/deadener does a good job. 👍

And luckily the weather is going to stay fairly cool, if not wet, for a couple of days. (For the others, we had a good rain storm this morning and are to have another tonight. Then the tail end of Beryl is supposed to come through on Tuesday, so the heat doesn't come back until mid-week.) I hope you get the A/C system going by the end of the week when it is to get HOT again.

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. The B+ wire is the Bk/O wire which is the output of the alternator and we do show a fuse for that. What am I missing?

I have it on the dip stick, which touches the header at times, the engine wiring harness as it goes from the fender liner over the header to the engine, and on the fuel lines near the header. Doesn't even show that it has touched the header. And it is easy to apply given the velcro closure.

Excellent! Glad it is running and driving so well.

Well, I didn't get very far. I found one reference to the tube being base # of 9B273 so looked it up in the catalog and found this: "9B273 TUBE ASSY. (FUEL PUMP TO FUEL FILTER)—cut to length from 9291". And 9291 is bulk metal tubing. So apparently the mechanic was supposed to make a new tube out of a length of tubing, put the ends on, flare it, and bend it to fit. Which is why most people use fuel hose to either patch their metal line, or put barbed fittings in and replace the whole thing with fuel line and clamps.

I assume you've read the guidelines, and while I don't see an introduction from you I'll say you are "in". Many people would use a tubing cutter and cut the split section out of the line, slip fuel hose on, and clamp it. It think that would work pretty well and since you are only talking about 5 - 6 psi it shouldn't leak. But if you want to replace the line I'll search for the part number of the line.

PV = NRT? I did that from memory and I don't think my memory is what it used to be, but I really can't remember.

I'm only asking 'cause I'm trying to figure out where the little bit of color came from on the UR5, therefore hotter, plugs. The AFR sits at about 14.9:1 when crusing, gets down to 13:1 on a steep hill when the cruise tries to make up speed, and maybe as low as 11:1 at WOT. The UR5's had some WOT runs on them several thousand miles ago, but since then it has all been cruising and maybe dipping to 13:1 every once in a while. But they have a bit of color. The colder UR6's have the same cruising and maybe dipping to 13:1, but only for ~200 miles, and no WOT runs. And at least the #1 plug has no color - and the hotter #1 did. So did the color on the hotter plugs come from the WOT runs several thousand miles ago? Or is it just too early to see color on the colder plugs? This isn't a big deal, I'm just curious - tan, not yellow.

The bluing by the weld, Id keep an eye on that, if I am remembering right thats a sign of too much timing that is causing the ground strap to get hot enough to anneal the metal creating a blue line on the strap at this point.. You are still good as the bluing is above the weld still, but you are at about the limit you can advance your timing before the bluing will disappear from the strap and the ground strap is super heated and has a good chance of causing detonation. The timing is the same as with the hotter plugs, and it is controlled by the computer so I won't be adding any. But I'm wondering if it is just too early to really read the plugs. The hotter plugs had some color to them, but this one looks brand new. I'm hoping to drive the truck more soon, but there aren't any longer trips in the near future. Maybe this fall/winter we will take it to Arkansas and do some of the forest service roads. So it'll be quite a while before I get enough miles on it to make much difference. But I've not done any WOT runs with these plugs. How long does any color added then stay on the insulators? There were quite a few WOT runs done with the hotter plugs, so maybe that's where the color came from?

Detroit Muscle Technologies. In this thread: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td41105

I did report on repairing mine, but the writeup we have in the documentation section is from James191145. You can see it at Documentation/HVAC/Blend Door Repair. And there's info on purchasing the hinge that Chris/ckuske and his friend designed in there. If I were to do it again that's what I'd do.

There was that as well. But I'd also read what needs to be done to the York to keep oil out of the air system and that concerned me. I could still have put a tank under the bedside, but then would have had plumbing running from the front of the engine all the way back. And I could have put pressure limit switches on to control the compressor, but I'd have had to buy them - and the tank. So buying the HF system and taking it apart gave me all the parts with less hassle. And it gave me the upside of having 110V anywhere I go, which let me brew coffee in a Keurig at 14,000' on a pass in Colorado.

That procedure is pretty much the same as Ford's procedure. And it should have been performed by Cardone before sending the unit out, at which point it shouldn't be adjusted again w/o going through the procedure. But you can do that to ensure it is adjusted properly. I'd bet that your box is just like the Ford boxes and uses the cast iron of the box as the bearing surface for the front bearing. And what Cardone, and most others, do is to measure that and discard boxes that aren't within their tolerance. But their tolerance is greater than what the original tolerance was, so the box comes out "loose". As far as I know only BlueTop and Redhead bore the box out and put a real bearing in there. That puts the tolerance back to where it should be. I replaced a recently rebuilt box, that cost the previous owner more than a Redhead or BlueTop, with a BlueTop and it made a huge difference in the steering.

Did you get it mounted? Does it work? I almost did that with Big Blue but then Jim offered me a 3KW inverter and I bought a 110V compressor instead.

My bad. I wasn't reading fully. My excuse is that the back screw came out of a drawer track in the pantry and the drawer went too far back and would NOT come out. So I was frustrated and not paying attention. But more and bigger screws are now in all the tracks and all is good. Yes, an HO has no ECU. Just DS-II and a 4bbl. (Sounds like a song.)

Yes it is very possible to get a bad rebuilt box. And if they are like Ford boxes you'll kill the "feel" of the steering if you adjust it. Buy one from Blue Top: https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/Jeep_c_16.html