Gary Lewis

Yes, that's a Saginaw.

They actually have a "customer support" organization? Well, maybe in name only?

Yippee!!!! Glad you have all the pieces. I'm along for the ride, although my grandtwins arrive tomorrow and I'll be playing with a French truck for the next week. So if you need me you have my cell and can text me. Good luck!!!!

I'm not sure where this conversation is going, but I have a 2015 Screw with the 3.5L EB and max tow, and an 85 F250 RCLB with a 460 - EFI'd 460 in fact. Both are rated to tow almost exactly the same and the 3.5L will out tow the 7.5L any day of the week, and do it in luxury.

Bob - I went ahead and put you on the map. My grandtwins arrive tomorrow and there won't be much computing going on for a week or so. I'd better do it now if I'm going to do it. I used to live directly west of you across the river. Right where the curve of the Mason-Dixon line cuts across DE 7. Don't know your side of the river very well as I was only over there a few times.

Curly, Moe, & Gary.

That changes everything, and thanks for reminding me, Jim. In that case it is HEI for me. As Jim said, a relay and some wire and Bob's your uncle.

I wish Bill would tell us how he really feels and not hold back. Personally, the HEI dizzy doesn't scare me. But it is so easy to just use a DS-II dizzy and module, so why not stay Ford? I'd only go HEI if I didn't have the wiring harness, dizzy, or module.

That's really cool! I love it!

Yes, the world is a very small place. I've met people all over the globe that when we started talking we found connections. And yes, this is the vision I have for the forum! I want this place to be the safe hangout for anyone, the place where people help each other, and the place where the documentation exists to answer any question. The be all and end all with respect to Bullnose trucks.

So his Jeep has a Saginaw?

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Sounds like an interesting project. Hope you'll document it here. Maybe in Projects? Or the main section. Your call.

I have an open bottle of an equivalent of High Tack. Open because if I put the lid back on it'll never come off again. The last two times water pump pliers got it off, but it is now misshapen and doesn't want to screw on. So yes, that's my go-to stuff, both for a sealant as well as to ensure SS fasteners don't gall.

Yes, there's at least a 10-second one, the VR-F814. There may be others but I'm not aware of them.

Welcome, Bob! Glad you joined. I hope the pickup works out for you. We'd love to help you sort out any issues it might have, and most of them have several. But you are right, we are a community. In fact, two of our members just helped a third get his truck running by going to his house and working directly on it. Which brings me to where you live. We have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city/state or zip. And as an FYI, we are just about to move from the platform we are on, which is Nabble, to Invision. You shouldn't have to do anything, although you might have to reset your password. But it will look different although everything is supposed to go over with us.

I wonder if there is a pressure regulator that you could use? It would let you reduce the max pressure, and therefore the assist, that the system gives.

But you know what the sealant is, and it is on both ends. Ain't gonna leak, regardless of where that opening goes.

Well, some times you have to use what you have on hand. No, I didn't have a nice 1/2" pipe thread plug. But I had a brass nipple and a cap. So why not? And it won't leak - right, Jim.

Here's the page at TireRack on your tires. And it says the right rim width is 8 - 10". So your wheels should be right for them, albeit at the upper end of the width range. But they should work. Have you tried different pressures? That can dramatically effect the "feel" of a tire and wheel combo. So I'd raise the pressure 2 - 3 psi and try that. Lower it 2 - 3 psi below where you have them now. Play around to see what changes in "feel" that might make.

Right. But I'll stress it at times, although not for long. It isn't as if it would be called on to crank out 220A for hours. Worst case would be winching, and that doesn't last very long.

Too much else to do and too little time or energy with which to do it. This looks "close enough" to what I wanted to make it acceptable. I did want to put the receiver in the bumper, but they don't do that. Oh well, I have a receiver on the truck that's rock solid. And with two gas tanks I really don't see the need for a Jerry can. Further, I mounted the jack on the sidewall in the bed, so that isn't needed either. So when wants/wishes meet limited time/energy something has to give.

I think Jim was suggesting that you get the charge cable that goes from the 3G alternator to a fuse on the passenger's fender. Or it may go to a fuse in a power distribution box there. I don't think it actually goes to the starter relay, but I may be wrong on that. Still it is a good find. The air inlet line goes to the fender-mounted air box that is part of the EFI system. If you have factory EFI then you might be able to make it work.

Not saying I "need" it, but at that price it is about the price of a normal 130A 3G. Wouldn't mind having that much current available when winching or running the compressor.

Thanks, David. But I'm just the one trying to re-learn what I've forgotten about the Chevy engines. Bill is supplying the knowledge.