Gary Lewis

Good find, David.

Vivek - That's pretty much what I expect to find when I get into this engine. But I'm not going to be as gentle as he was as I don't care to salvage anything but the bell housing.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. As Vinny implied with the link to the New Members Start Here folder and Jim outright stated, that's where we ask people to start because we have the guidelines posted there and want you to have read them as we will hold you to them. So can you confirm that you've read them? As for wrenching with your son, I fully understand. My son doesn't wrench but we've at least taken a trip in Big Blue. My SiL does wrench 'cause he has an '84 F150 and that's required to drive it. And now my grandson is getting a taste of it on a 50 Chevy pickup. So I DO understand your desire to share those experiences. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip.

I like that! Oddly enough, I grew up on Chevies. My first car was a 1958 Belair and the next was a 58 Impala. For his to-work cars Dad had a 34 Ford, an earlier Olds, a Willys, a 54 Plymouth, a Kelvinator (Nash), and a 55 Chevy pickup that was HOT. But the family had a mix of Buicks and Chevies. So I learned to work on all of them. When I got into Bullnose trucks I was appalled by the fact that you can't swap transmissions willy-nilly between engines. In the Chevies I was around you would swap transmissions any which way. So that was a bit of a bummer. But now that I've found this horrible design with bolts inside the bell housing I'll take a Ford any day. As for the next step, Monday I'm going to put the engine down on the floor on its side. That will let me put more force on the pry bar than with it hanging by chains on the shop crane. Maybe it'll come loose. If not I'll pull the pan and pull the rod caps to see if I can get the crank to turn. Worst case I'll use the sawzall on the crank at the back.

I have one I could measure if y'all get serious.

Welcome. Glad you can actually post. I was afraid we had a spammer. But before we get into the wiring please go to the New Members Start Here folder and read the guidelines and post an introduction. We ask that of everyone and it was in the email we sent you.

Good finds, David!

Interesting! But it also needs the right brake pedal or the "feel" will be off.

Maybe. Or spam. We shall see.

Please stop posting until you introduce yourself. Another blank post and I'll have to ban you.

I'm sorry, but there's nothing in your post. Also you were asked to go to the New Members Start Here folder and introduce yourself before posting elsewhere. We ask that because we have our guidelines posted there and we want you to read them because we will hold you to them. So once you've read the guidelines and posted in that folder please come back here and tell us about your unidentified wires. We should be able to help you.

Well done!

Watch out for the "old" bit. I'm 77. All the parts you can buy are "replacement" parts.

What's wrong with our page at Documentation/HOW TO DECODE FORD PART NUMBERS.

Did you try the links in the thread I linked to?

You might consider installing a load reduction control (LRC) voltage regulator before installing the alternator - assuming it doesn't have one. Most of the LRC regulators are white. You can see how they work in this thread.

I know I'm late to the party, but I'm confused so that seems to be an ideal time to chime in. But I don't think it is possible to definitively answer the question w/o having the two parts in your hands or having extensive experience. You asked "Would, E8UZ 19B888 A be a good interchange for E1AH 19D961-BA?" But E1AH 19D961-BA ID # is part # E1AZ 19B888-B, not 8BBB-A. The MPC says: E8UZ 19B888-A was used on 1988 E150/350 w/aux. or integral A/C & heater also dir. installed A/C E1AZ 19B888-B was used on 1983-89 F-U100/350 w/integral A/C & 1988-89 E150/350 w/aux. integral A/C So I can't tell you if they will interchange as I don't know what differences there might be in the applications. But the fact that both were used on 1988 E-series vehicles suggests they might interchange for the vacuum part.

Right. So removing the EGR w/o addressing the spark advance can cause knock/pre-ignition at part throttle. I had that on Big Blue when I got him as the previous owner had removed the EGR system but hadn't backed off on the vacuum advance and it would ping under load at part throttle, like pulling a trailer or carrying a load. I got around it by running 91 octane gas when needed, but the better thing to do would have been to back off the vacuum advance. Assuming your vacuum advance is adjustable you can see how to do that on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Instructions tab followed by the Crane Cams tab.

We do have Ford's chart on U-joints on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts and then the U-Joint tab. Has this info and more:

I took a very thin tape measure and wrapped it around the harmonic balancer to determine the circumference. Then I divided by 4 and marked the balancer every 90 degrees from TDC. Set #1 to TDC and do it leak-down test, checking adjacent cylinders, the intake, the exhaust, and the cooling system for air. Turn the balancer 90 degrees and do the test for the next cylinder in the firing order. Etc. Some say you can test two cylinders at each point as the opposite cylinder should have its valves closed. But I haven't tried that as it is easy enough to test one at a time. If you don't get the piston at exactly TDC then it may try to move down with the air pressure. But I've not had a problem if I really get it on TDC. And I always use 100 psi as that lets me easily determine the % leak down.

Good to know, Bill. We aren't using any of that as the 235 comes as a complete unit, inc carb, starter, and generator.

You need the knob AND the module. I grabbed this pict on eBay: Or you could use the pic we have on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers:

Thanks, Bill. I'm sorta back on the manual tranny kick right now as I really don't want to do any fabrication. So if I can get the bell housing off and buy a new clutch/flywheel/pressure plate combo I think I'll go back that way. But you are right, the 50 does have one mount in front and two in the rear. The one in the front mounts to the timing cover and is said to fit the 235. So I'll be taking it off as I work on the 216 to get the bell housing off.

There are other types of governors. The 50 Chevy pickup we have has one in the intake under the carb. The pic on the left shows the inner workings of it, although I don't know how it worked. And the one on the right shows the plate in the intake that the governor closes or opens.

Thanks, David. I do remember that, but it was still funny. Got the 50 back under the carport today and Big Blue back in his stall in the shop. Here are a couple of pics to prove it. The one on the left shows the motive power used for a few minutes - until I realized that the truck was almost rolling w/o the mower, at which point I just pushed it by hand. The one on the right shows that I cut it rather close getting it past the post - but it cleared. Now I can work on disassembling the engine to get the bell housing off.