Gary Lewis

That’s good news! I guess a bent connecting rod does make a difference.

Two steps forward and one backward is still progress.

I like Midwest Transmission. They've been good to me.

Everyone else went for a walk and left me alone for 15 minutes.

Ok, I've determined that your transfer case takes parts list #5E, as show below, which you can find on the Applications tab on the page at Driveline/Transfer Cases. So you should: Go to the page at Driveline/Transfer Cases & click on the NP208 tab Click on the Illustrations tab and see that the shift forks are base part number 7289 Click on the Parts Lists tab and note that the heading says Transmission Parts Lists 5A thru 5M Scroll down the 5E column until you find the 7289 base part numbers Note that in the E column you have two shift forks, and the correct one is determined by the manufacturing date on your tag - before or after 1/19/82. I think yours was manufactured on 5/28/82, so yours should take E1TZ 7289-B.

Ok, if you were in 2Hi then its alright. And popping out of gear is what I've seen when the plastic on the forks goes bad. But I can't read the #'s on that tag. Can you read them for me? I'll try to look up the parts list tomorrow.

Welcome! Glad you joined and glad you posted here. Where is home? I ask because we have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member’s Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city/state or Zip.

Welcome! Glad you joined the forum. However, you may have missed the email that Jim sent you asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself there before posting elsewhere. Until you do that people are reluctant to reply. Don't worry, this happens frequently and we get over it. But it is an important step because we have our guidelines in the NMSH folder and we will hold you to them. So it is important that you read them. Now, towards your problem. First, it sounds like you were driving in 4wd. Did you have the hubs locked in? Were you on dry pavement? That is a no-no and will destroy something. Hopefully you've not been doing that. As for the shift fork, I can research that tomorrow. But today is the last day my grandtwins will be with me for a few months so I'm otherwise occupied. So I can check tomorrow but I really need the info of the tag that should be on your transfer case. An aluminum tag that has the model and specific info that lets me look things up in the master parts catalog. So please go to the NMSH folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself there. And then in this thread come back with a pic of the tag off your t-case.

Nice! There are always lots of things to be resolved. But it looks to be in better shape than most.

I agree with Dane. Sometimes we overlook the close at hand. But you have a beautiful state. Bummer on getting sick, but at least the illness was fairly short-lived. Had it been COVID like is going around here it would have been a bigger, longer problem. As for the propane leak, I'd hope that is a fairly easy thing to solve. But solve it must be!

Louis was born a very few miles into Switzerland from France. I looked it up before we went to Alsace last year and found that the village is actually Swiss not French.

The show is to be Sept 14 at the Chuch of Christ in Skiatook, Ok. There will be a dinner at the same place the night before for forum members and others. I'll make an announcement soon. This has caught up with me apparently sleeping.

Thank you, David! I got it.

Congrats guys! I suppose you’re taking good notes and pictures to remember how to put it back… fonctional. Thanks, Jeff. But no notes, although several pictures. However it is pretty straightforward. There’s the throttle linkage, but it will probably need to be changed as the 216 gas what I think is a governor and the 235 doesn’t. And there’s the choke cable but the 235 has an automatic choke. Anyway, it is all pretty simple.

I'm not sure that's the right word, but I think it is. The driveshaft is enclosed and at the end of the transmission there's a spherical chamber in which ride the u-joints. And then a spherical piece attaches to that and to the "torque tube", as Chevy called the outside tube of the driveshaft assembly. full.full

Got the engine out! Man, was it a struggle! The first pic shows Ian cutting the last thing holding the engine in - the vacuum line, probably to the wipers. The next pic is proof we got it out. But it wasn't as easy as I expected. Even though we'd gotten most things loose/off yesterday there were still several today. The exhaust pipe, the throttle linkage, the clutch linkage, and the gimbal bearing. The latter was a particularly tough nut to crack. I don't have a pipe wrench large enough to get the nut off the back of the bearing housing, the one that goes around the torque tube. And my strap wrench wouldn't do the trick. So I used a chisel in the serrations and walked it off. Will need to dress the burrs, but it is still useable. That got us to the "u-joints" inside the gimbal bearing. There are two bearing caps and they are supposed to have two bolts each. One had only one bolt and the other bolt wasn't tight. The other cap had both bolts but neither were tight. Luckily someone had put the keepers on and that kept the bolts in place. Got the transmission off, but that was a challenge as the top two bolts go through the ears and into the bell housing. But the bottom two bolts come through the bell housing into the transmission. So the flywheel cover comes off and you peer up into the black abyss with the thing dangling on the shop crane . That got us to the bell housing which has the same thing - top two bolts through the ears into the block, but the bottom two bolts are from inside into the block, and the head of the bolts is ~1/4" from the flywheel. So obviously the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel have to come off to get to those bolts. We quit for the day as we have the front chain wrapped around the crank pulley, so it'll have to be shifted so we can rotate the crank and get to the bolts on the pressure plate and then the flywheel.

Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well done!!!! While any progress is good, that is a major step forward.

Glad you are getting things ready for your holiday, Rene. As for the oil level being high, have you started it and filled the filter? Probably, but I thought I'd ask. Anyway, good that you found that noise. Apparently it was the u-joint.

Got a note from Stuart at Invision yesterday: I responded that they are doing the right thing, that we aren't in a hurry and want everything to work. But that all he has to do to get an account is to apply and we will approve it.

Thanks so much Jonathan and Gary for sharing these wonderful pictures and memories! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/love-23x23_orig.png Yes, we are making memories. Some are better than others. Today we got the hood off, the radiator & support out, the gimbal bearing cover removed, the transmission support disconnected, and the shop crane hooked up to the engine. Oh and the fuel line, electrical connections removed. Plus the starter linkage disconnected from the starter pedal. But when doing the latter we found a bit of oddity, as shown below. Engineering at its best. But at the end of the day we didn’t get the engine out. There is something holding it that we’ve not found - yet.

Vinny!!! Good to see from you! You can send funds via a check to Gary Lewis @ 15519 Colonial Lane, Skiatook, OK. 74070

We got the tires and wheels on the truck and got it into the shop yesterday, which was my goal for the 2 hours we had. But that makes it sound easier that it was. It rolls easily on the pavement, but not in the grass. So we used Big Blue and his winch to move it in the yard from the back to the front of the shop. And getting out out from under the car port and lined up between the shop and the fence was an issue as we had to make at least 5 full-lock moves - with no power steering for Ian, the driver, and only old-man motive power. Today the plan is to remove the hood and whatever else needs to come off to get the old engine out, and then see if we can actually get it out.

Yep, that is true. And you can see from the pic above (done w/o a # on the post) that the spare takes up a lot of room in the bed - even though that jack is now on the LH bed side not the tire. The toolbox reduces the length and then the spare in the middle effectively makes the bed quite small. So, as said, going to NM last year our suitcases and the needed camping gear had it FULL. Given that, if I get to do it again I'd like to have the spare on the bumper, and this bumper is a way to do that.

We do have the option of creating different things, like a FOG group. But I fear people will ask questions there that are or should be asked in the main section. We could say "Only ask questions specific to Flaresides", but not everyone knows what those are - and there aren't that many of them. As for slow threads, I'm hoping that the new platform will fix, or greatly reduce, the time to load them. I know that Franklin moved all the forums to one server some time ago, and I think that is a big reason why it takes sooooo long to load. I hope.

Right, Bob. Here's a shot of the spare tire carrier itself and you can see the pivot and the latch. Can't tell if it clears the license tag, but I'm guessing that it does. And yes, the tire will obscure the view to the rear, but that's not a problem in my case as I have the rear view camera and only use the interior mirror as a display for the camera(s). I don't particularly like the full-width design and it means that you have to have a lot of clearance to the rear when opening it. In fact, I might not be able to open it in the shop. My design of the latch being just left of center reduces the width a lot. But then I'm not getting it made either.