Gary Lewis

Yes, that/this is the latest.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Jim recommended that you do as we asked and go to the New Members Start Here folder to post your intro. We ask that because we have our guidelines posted there and want you to read them because we will hold you to them. So please read them and let us know that you have.

I’m tuned in, but in no hurry. I understand going slow and having visitors.

Congratulations!!! And I agree with cab vs engine instead of male/female. That kept me looking last night as I was replying.

Then it’ll be a good fit! Go for it, Bill.

Yes, the 4V heads did flow well. But the ports were huge and that killed the torque at low RPM. But the 2V C/M heads had pretty large ports themselves, much larger than the Windsor heads. Brandon/Bruno2 came over one day to pick up a pair of W heads I was giving him. He's a good sized guy so I told him where they were in the attic. But he came down with a pair of 2V C heads. So I took him, carrying the heads, back up and showed him the W heads. He said "Wow! They have such small ports!" Yup.

The 351M was developed exactly the way the 360 was - by destroking its big brother. And both were, as you said, underpowered. The 400 was a good engine, although it had some issues, like the oiling system. But it had great potential due to the size of the ports in the heads - the exact same 2V heads as were on the 351C. However that potential was not utilized as they didn't put a 4bbl carb on it, at least not in the trucks. And they retarded the cam. So the 400 had good torque due to the stroke but ran out of steam quickly due to the carb & cam. I know a guy that put an Edelbrock intake, 4bbl, & timing set on his stock 400 and claimed it doubled the power. AThe 351M I had with higher compression and the same Edelbrock combo made good power - far, far better than Dad's stock 351M. Dad's 351M/C6 combo got 10 MPG and had no power while the strong 351M & ZF5 got 14 MPG with lots of power - in the same truck. So I fully agree, those engines were "poorly executed" from the factory. But they had great potential.

Yes, I was apprehensive at first, but then he was just offering to make a tee shirt at a reasonable price. And he worked with me to make change until I was happy with it.

Ok, in the light of day I may be starting to understand a bit. I missed that the title of the thread is "Restoring C610 - 1G side (female)". So NOW I understand a little bit of what you are trying to do, Jeff. Not WHY you are trying to do it mind you, but WHAT. So help me understand the "why"? What are you trying to accomplish? And, what does your harness on Big Bro look like? In other words, what are we trying to connect to? If we can stay with the EVTM page that Jim posted, and which I think I understand quite well, and if you could show us where your harness is cut by showing cut lines on the schematic, then we might be able to help you. And, sorry for the confusion. Somehow last night I totally missed the title of the thread.

Just got the email address for Jack Henry: jack333shop@gmail.com So if you want him to create a shirt for you just email him.

But at least he's trying to catch up! Glad to have him back. He's got a long way to go.

Yes, well done!

Might take an XXL just to get Darth on. 😎

Sorry Gary, I made you confused. I will do the 3G job next days. But since I first had to reinstall a C610 connector, I was looking to restore the 1G female side too. Before taking the «1G alt+ 1G regulator + 1G harness» kit out of the engine compartment. Just for fun... If you restore the 1G you'll then have to remove what you've done to do the 3G. I wouldn't want to make those changes and then rip them out.

Gary, just because this is the 3G wiring diagram. And I suppose that it is different than the 1G wiring. I am wrong? I thought the object was to wiring Big Brother up for a 3G. Not a 1G or 2G. If we stick with the diagram I posted then I think it is pretty simple. But I get lost with the others you've posted. If you trim the wire as I suggested you only have 4 connections on that side of C610: Y/LG, which is your #7, goes to ground Big Yellow goes to the megafuse or the starter relay, but not both - as shown on the schematic Y/LG, your #7, goes to ground R/O splices to LG/R coming from C610 and goes on to the regulator

I don't think #5 is broken. I punched the rod bolt out trying to get the cap off, so maybe that is what you are seeing. And yes, it is scrap and I've seen better. Man, this is toast.

I posted a pic of Big Blue on a Facebook page today and was then contacted by Jack Henry. Turns out that he makes tee shirts, hoodies, mugs, etc with pictures of various things and sells them via this website. Not that you want a tee with Big Blue on it, but I thought that some of you might be interested in having a tee shirt with your own truck on it. If anyone is interested I can contact him.

Sounds like lifting the cab is the way to go. That's not the end of the world, but it is more work.

Progress!

Jeff - I am getting lost with all of the other diagrams. Why do we need more than this one?

Yes, the E4OD crossmember is quite different from the others. I have the one on Dad's truck.

That's an idea, Jim. I've not really thought through what to do next, but I'm certainly not against cutting that crank. Everything in there is toast. I was hoping to get the back end of the crank to come up with a pry bar, but it won't wiggle. So I'm going to spend a bit more time trying to dislodge the crank before I start cutting.

Jeff - I'm confused. But I think what is confusing both me and you is that you are trying to use the wires after S201. You'll cut the R/O wire before the splice so you only have 4 wires to deal with off of C610: Y/LG, which is your #7, goes to ground Big Yellow goes to the megafuse or the starter relay, but not both - as shown on the schematic Y/LG, your #7, goes to ground R/O splices to LG/R coming from C610 and goes on to the regulator

Got the engine turned over and the pan off. Can't figure out why the engine won't rotate.

If you use a transmission that has an integrated bellhousing (any automatic or many 5 speed overdrive manual transmissions, including all from Ford trucks) you will need to get a transmission that fits your engine (as Jim said). If you use a transmission that does NOT have an integrated bellhousing (old 4 speed manuals and a few 5 speed overdrives, such as NV4500 from Dodge or Chevy) then you will need the bellhousing for an old 4 speed manual that fits your engine. If you are thinking about a 5 speed, none of the Ford transmissions will have a manual clutch linkage. So you'd "need to get crafty on it" to make it work in your truck. Probably more work than you want to bite off. And if you are putting in a non-Ford 5 speed you may also need an adapter to fit the trans to the bellhousing. So either way a 5 speed will complicate the process. There is a glitch with the 351M/400. Yes, it has the same bolt pattern as a 460, but Ford moved the flywheel rearward ~3/8" on the 460. So a ZF5's input shaft will just barely touch the pilot bearing and the bearing won't last long. So to put a ZF5 on an M-block you need a spacer that Tim Meyer sells. I don't see it on his site right now but he has them as well as a flywheel if you want it. Tell him I sent you.