Gary Lewis

Is that in reference to can’t, shouldn’t, or will? 😎 I think I learned “will” the first time I pulled Fuse 9. (Going from 77 yo memory here, but it’s younger memory than some. 😉)

Looks good! I think you’ll love it. You’ll have to decide which one you are bringing to the show. 😎

The speed density/bank fire systems work well - if you don't change much. The range of adjustment in the ECU is fairly small as it assumes it knows how much air was just ingested at a given RPM with a given throttle opening. So if you change the cam, or the intake, or the exhaust it won't really know and it may not be able to adjust far enough to make it work correctly. That's where the mass airflow (MAF) systems come in. They don't assume, they measure. So then they can do the math to determine how much fuel is needed, and they have a table that tells them how long to open the injectors to get that much fuel. But they monitor the output via the O2 level and learn how much to adjust from their table to get the right amount of fuel and, therefore, the AFR they are supposed to be at. And it is that learning that you lose when you pull the battery.

Wrong terminology. You "can" do it but "shouldn't". The systems learn what it takes to make the engine run correctly and will forget that if you remove the power. So you'll go through the learning exercise each time if you disconnect the battery and your trip may be over before it learns everything again.

I'm running Ford's EEC-V system from a '96 California 460. Those trucks got EEC-V with MAF & SEFI while the rest of the world got EEC-IV with speed density and bank fire. But the biggest draw for me was the OBD-II port on EEC-V. That will let my offspring maintain the truck 'cause anyone can plug in a scanner and find out what the problem is.

Don't want to do that on Big Blue 'cause we'd be back in the Learn mode on the EFI each time.

It actually varies a bit. The battery isolator drops out right at 12.70v according to my DVM. Yesterday the voltage was 12.67 and sagging just a bit, so I'd bet the isolator dropped out over night and the voltage on the starting battery went up enough to bring the isolator back in. The battery charger puts out around 600 ma and the isolator's coil takes up about 1/2 of that. The various devices in the truck, like the dash cam which is always monitoring, are pulling most of the rest of that, so there's not much going into the two batteries. However, I've not really measured it.

I'm copying this over from Scott's post last year and will follow up with what I've said to each of the vendors as well as track their responses in this post. LMC - Email sent to "Tyler B. Reyes" & cc'ing Keith on 8/10 NPD - Email sent to Darrin Dewey on 8/10 Summit Racing - Question submitted via their website on 8/10 S&B - Does not provide advertising so won't bother them 66 Auto Color (SEM) - Does not provide advertising products so won't bother them Obsolete Classic Auto Parts Off Road Warehouse 4 Wheel Parts (Toys for Trucks) Wilco Offroad Jeff's Bronco Graveyard - Sent an email to them on 8/10 Dennis Carpenter - They "no longer provide these services" Rock Auto - Email sent on 8/10. Response on 8/13: "RockAuto is not providing event sponsorships at this time." O'Reillys - Gary to hit up the local store which did contribute last year AutoZone ARP - Scott did the comm's last year so I'll tag him SEM Skiatook Auto Parts - Gary to hit them up as they did contribute last year Bumper To Bumper - Gary to hit up the local store which did contribute last year GRC Performance - A local Ford tuning place. Not expecting them to give, but maybe show up. 8/10 Ben Head of Binary Editor - emailed on 8/10 Cody @ Leech Motorsports - emailed on 8/10, but it bounced. Sent him a text and he asked that I send it to codyl2008@gmail.com. Did on 8/10

A 429 with 11:1 would take a lot of cranking. And that was the days before the PMGR & LEDs, so you needed a lot of battery. I'm happy with my huge starting battery. As said, I don't know that I'd buy the same one again, although because I already have the fitted hold-downs for the Odyssey batteries I might. But after the fiasco of the Horrid Freight battery charger failing and draining the battery I keep an ancient trickle charger on it when the truck sits in the shop for weeks on end. This charger has just enough to keep the Cole Hersee battery isolator pulled in and both batteries at 12.7V.

But in those 726 miles how much did the oil go down on the dipstick? I think Jim's point is that if the oil level went down more than what went into the catch can then it is going somewhere else and not just through the PCV system.

Got it! Thanks, Bryan.

Well, Big Blue aways carries a 12,000 lb winch, dual batteries with 2000 CCA combined, on-board compressed air, onboard 3KW of 110V AC, a highlift jack, all kinds of recovery gear, lots of spare parts, and enough tools to overhaul essentially anything. But all of it save for the winch is hidden from view - both to be neat awa to keep it safe. BB is not a mall crawler.

That is bizarre! But it proves, yet again, what I've seen before - the EVTM and the wiring diagrams do not agree in a number of places. In this case S110. Clearly they are talking about two different splices. But I don't know why they differ.

The All Ford Truck Show is 5 weeks from tomorrow. Skiatook, OK. About 20 miles north of Tulsa. No fees, just lots of Ford trucks of all shapes and ages. BE THERE! (If you kids don't know about the BE THERE tag, many of the radio commercials for drag races in the 60's ended with BE THERE!)

So that’s what the saying is! Janey looks at me and says “Dodo, you aren’t in Kansas anymore.”

My bad, James Island.

Danny - My family is fine. Apparently they live in a "less-low" area. (Can't say "high" and "John's Island" in the same sentence.) Hope you are staying safe. Bill - You, too! Stay safe 'cause it is moving north.

It turned out to be a very easy thing to solve. I just handed over my credit card! I'm busy enough this summer that I didn't want to mess with this, especially since we have another trip coming up in a few weeks. So I took it in. They found a hole in the hose to the fridge, so they replaced the hose. I was also a little concerned / annoyed that the propane detector hadn't thought there was a problem. I was told that they have about a 5 year life span and mine was 9 years old, so they also put a new propane detector in it. I'm still wondering a little about the location of the detector. It's probably about 10" above the floor, under the dinette table, about 10' away from all of the sources of propane (the fridge, furnace, stove and water heater are all in one area). Especially since the entry is between the possible leak locations and the detector, giving the heavier-than-air propane a place to collect before getting over to the detector. It seems to me that having the detector closer to the floor, and closer to the possible leaks would be better. Still, Lesley detected the leak while standing with her "detector" much higher than the one from the motorhome. So it's probably fine (as long as it works!). Glad you got it solved. But I'm with you, the location of the leak detector is not good. As you said, it would be easy for the propane to pool in the step well. And with the detector 10" off the floor you could have a whole lot of gas built up before it senses it. This propane detector says "Propane gas is denser than air, and will usually accumulate close to the floor. Therefore, RV Safe should be placed near the floor in order to quickly detect propane gas leaks." But they don't quantify "near". This one says "Propane is heavier than air. For propane gas detection, install this alarm from 4 to 20 inches off the floor." I think I'd install a new one near the source(s) and ~6" off the floor.

It is hard to imagine it being that clean and also being used overlanding or off-roading. In my experience of taking back roads and 4wd roads there are mud holes that coat the underside of the truck. Bushes and limbs that scratch the side of the truck. And overhead obstructions that would take some of those things off the top of the truck. I think that's a mall-crawler.

Is it always that clean? If so then it is unlikely that it gets used overlanding, which is what it looks like it is set up for.

The PO threw money at this truck, and the battery he put in is an example thereof. About as expensive as you can get. And they are AGM. Not saying I'd go back with the same battery, but that's what I have and I know they fit - but just barely in the case of the starting battery.

That's the battery that was in Big Blue when I got him, so I've stayed with it. But I don't use that one for winching, just the aux battery which is an Odyssey Extreme 34M-PC1500. I bought it to match the starting battery as closely as I could, but the factory aux battery tray wouldn't allow the height of the group 31 battery.

Yikes! Sorry to see that, Danny. Hope you are safe and will heed the warning.

The later tray came out in 87 and was used for many years. Here's a shot of how I mounted it in Big Blue:

I'm running an Odyssey Extreme 31M-PC2150 on a later F4TZ 10732-B battery tray. That's the newer battery tray that is much better than the Bullnose tray. And the battery just BARELY fits as the negative post almost touches the hood. That's a Group 31 battery with brass SAE posts & 3/8 inch positive and 5/16 inch negative thread SS stud terminals. And it has an 1150 CCA rating. But I don't recommend the Odyssey batteries as they have a strange shape that standard battery clamps don't fit well. However the later battery tray has a bottom clamping arrangement that might fit most batteries nicely.