Gary Lewis

Excellent! Glad it is running and driving so well.

Well, I didn't get very far. I found one reference to the tube being base # of 9B273 so looked it up in the catalog and found this: "9B273 TUBE ASSY. (FUEL PUMP TO FUEL FILTER)—cut to length from 9291". And 9291 is bulk metal tubing. So apparently the mechanic was supposed to make a new tube out of a length of tubing, put the ends on, flare it, and bend it to fit. Which is why most people use fuel hose to either patch their metal line, or put barbed fittings in and replace the whole thing with fuel line and clamps.

I assume you've read the guidelines, and while I don't see an introduction from you I'll say you are "in". Many people would use a tubing cutter and cut the split section out of the line, slip fuel hose on, and clamp it. It think that would work pretty well and since you are only talking about 5 - 6 psi it shouldn't leak. But if you want to replace the line I'll search for the part number of the line.

PV = NRT? I did that from memory and I don't think my memory is what it used to be, but I really can't remember.

I'm only asking 'cause I'm trying to figure out where the little bit of color came from on the UR5, therefore hotter, plugs. The AFR sits at about 14.9:1 when crusing, gets down to 13:1 on a steep hill when the cruise tries to make up speed, and maybe as low as 11:1 at WOT. The UR5's had some WOT runs on them several thousand miles ago, but since then it has all been cruising and maybe dipping to 13:1 every once in a while. But they have a bit of color. The colder UR6's have the same cruising and maybe dipping to 13:1, but only for ~200 miles, and no WOT runs. And at least the #1 plug has no color - and the hotter #1 did. So did the color on the hotter plugs come from the WOT runs several thousand miles ago? Or is it just too early to see color on the colder plugs? This isn't a big deal, I'm just curious - tan, not yellow.

The bluing by the weld, Id keep an eye on that, if I am remembering right thats a sign of too much timing that is causing the ground strap to get hot enough to anneal the metal creating a blue line on the strap at this point.. You are still good as the bluing is above the weld still, but you are at about the limit you can advance your timing before the bluing will disappear from the strap and the ground strap is super heated and has a good chance of causing detonation. The timing is the same as with the hotter plugs, and it is controlled by the computer so I won't be adding any. But I'm wondering if it is just too early to really read the plugs. The hotter plugs had some color to them, but this one looks brand new. I'm hoping to drive the truck more soon, but there aren't any longer trips in the near future. Maybe this fall/winter we will take it to Arkansas and do some of the forest service roads. So it'll be quite a while before I get enough miles on it to make much difference. But I've not done any WOT runs with these plugs. How long does any color added then stay on the insulators? There were quite a few WOT runs done with the hotter plugs, so maybe that's where the color came from?

Detroit Muscle Technologies. In this thread: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td41105

I did report on repairing mine, but the writeup we have in the documentation section is from James191145. You can see it at Documentation/HVAC/Blend Door Repair. And there's info on purchasing the hinge that Chris/ckuske and his friend designed in there. If I were to do it again that's what I'd do.

There was that as well. But I'd also read what needs to be done to the York to keep oil out of the air system and that concerned me. I could still have put a tank under the bedside, but then would have had plumbing running from the front of the engine all the way back. And I could have put pressure limit switches on to control the compressor, but I'd have had to buy them - and the tank. So buying the HF system and taking it apart gave me all the parts with less hassle. And it gave me the upside of having 110V anywhere I go, which let me brew coffee in a Keurig at 14,000' on a pass in Colorado.

That procedure is pretty much the same as Ford's procedure. And it should have been performed by Cardone before sending the unit out, at which point it shouldn't be adjusted again w/o going through the procedure. But you can do that to ensure it is adjusted properly. I'd bet that your box is just like the Ford boxes and uses the cast iron of the box as the bearing surface for the front bearing. And what Cardone, and most others, do is to measure that and discard boxes that aren't within their tolerance. But their tolerance is greater than what the original tolerance was, so the box comes out "loose". As far as I know only BlueTop and Redhead bore the box out and put a real bearing in there. That puts the tolerance back to where it should be. I replaced a recently rebuilt box, that cost the previous owner more than a Redhead or BlueTop, with a BlueTop and it made a huge difference in the steering.

Did you get it mounted? Does it work? I almost did that with Big Blue but then Jim offered me a 3KW inverter and I bought a 110V compressor instead.

My bad. I wasn't reading fully. My excuse is that the back screw came out of a drawer track in the pantry and the drawer went too far back and would NOT come out. So I was frustrated and not paying attention. But more and bigger screws are now in all the tracks and all is good. Yes, an HO has no ECU. Just DS-II and a 4bbl. (Sounds like a song.)

Yes it is very possible to get a bad rebuilt box. And if they are like Ford boxes you'll kill the "feel" of the steering if you adjust it. Buy one from Blue Top: https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/Jeep_c_16.html

Welcome! Glad you joined. The ECU should be in a bracket roughly above the gas pedal. Where's home? We have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and I can add you with a city/state or zip.

I now have all of the documents that I got from the lady at church scanned and on the site. Today the last two were: 1985 CARB & FUEL SYSTEM SPECS: This includes the specs for the 1985 Carter YFA & YF, the Motorcraft 2150, the Holley 4180C, and the EFI system, and is shown in the list of Annual Service Literature. MICROPROCESSOR CONTROL UNIT SYSTEMS: This one is included in the list of Ford Training Manuals. David/1986F150Six - I'm going to tag you as I'd like to fill in the missing documents in these three lists over time, so maybe you could watch for them to come up at a reasonable, if not very good, price? I'm thinking that if we have money left in the operating budget at the end of the year I'd use the funds for adding to the library, but if you find a really good deal now I'd probably buy it myself. Adverts & Brochures Annual Service Literature: Other Annual Publications

Wonderful!!! It is always good to get the break-in done w/o problems.

Here are pics of the new UR6, on the left, and the old UR5 for #1 cylinder. Just about 200 miles on the UR6, and all of it running 10% ethanol.

I hope I don't run you off, but you may have missed the email that Jim sent you. Basically it asked you to go the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then post an introduction there in that folder. We do that because we hold everyone to our guidelines, so want you to have read them. And since they are posted in that folder we ask you to go there for your first post. Don't worry, many people miss that first step. But we won't hold that against you. So once you've done that come back here and we will try to answer your question.

Let’s let Keith know what is being said. I’ll tag him.

Only your hairdresser curator knows.

Go to the page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns & Steering Wheels and then go to the Instructions tab followed by the Factory Shop Manual Section tab. When the shop manual section opens scroll down to Page 8 and on the right you'll find "Ignition Lock Cylinder (Without Key)".

Well done!

Good pics, Paul. 👍

Looking good! Can't wait for the report.

You should be good on the detonation, when you pull the plugs out now you should have a tan color porcelain which means you are not too hot and not too cold. I suspect what was happening is your electrode was getting hot enough on some cylinders to cause a slight detonation. You didnt have what appeared to be silver pyramids so you weren't knocking metal off your pistons, you were detonating just enough to rattle some carbon loose. Heres an old diagram I got about timing indicator mark on the electrode strap. Its one of those things that I am kind of dreading to do for my build, considering the proper way to do a plug read is to do a hard full throttle pass then kill the ignition system then pull the plugs. No way for me to do that unless I do it on the side of the road away from home. Rusty - Your plug diagram matches what I've read, and both say the timing is about right - for part throttle usage. I've not done any full throttle runs in a long time, and certainly haven't stopped on the side of the road to read the plugs. And I agree that the UR5's may have been causing pinging or detonation at low RPM. I have a corner in the neighborhood that is fairly tight and the engine would rattle if I took it in 3rd and gave it any throttle at all. That was down just below 1000 RPM. But yesterday I tried it after we'd been on the highway for 90 minutes and it didn't rattle. Maybe tomorrow I can pull #1 and see what it looks like.