Gary Lewis

I have an open bottle of an equivalent of High Tack. Open because if I put the lid back on it'll never come off again. The last two times water pump pliers got it off, but it is now misshapen and doesn't want to screw on. So yes, that's my go-to stuff, both for a sealant as well as to ensure SS fasteners don't gall.

Yes, there's at least a 10-second one, the VR-F814. There may be others but I'm not aware of them.

Welcome, Bob! Glad you joined. I hope the pickup works out for you. We'd love to help you sort out any issues it might have, and most of them have several. But you are right, we are a community. In fact, two of our members just helped a third get his truck running by going to his house and working directly on it. Which brings me to where you live. We have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city/state or zip. And as an FYI, we are just about to move from the platform we are on, which is Nabble, to Invision. You shouldn't have to do anything, although you might have to reset your password. But it will look different although everything is supposed to go over with us.

I wonder if there is a pressure regulator that you could use? It would let you reduce the max pressure, and therefore the assist, that the system gives.

But you know what the sealant is, and it is on both ends. Ain't gonna leak, regardless of where that opening goes.

Well, some times you have to use what you have on hand. No, I didn't have a nice 1/2" pipe thread plug. But I had a brass nipple and a cap. So why not? And it won't leak - right, Jim.

Here's the page at TireRack on your tires. And it says the right rim width is 8 - 10". So your wheels should be right for them, albeit at the upper end of the width range. But they should work. Have you tried different pressures? That can dramatically effect the "feel" of a tire and wheel combo. So I'd raise the pressure 2 - 3 psi and try that. Lower it 2 - 3 psi below where you have them now. Play around to see what changes in "feel" that might make.

Right. But I'll stress it at times, although not for long. It isn't as if it would be called on to crank out 220A for hours. Worst case would be winching, and that doesn't last very long.

Too much else to do and too little time or energy with which to do it. This looks "close enough" to what I wanted to make it acceptable. I did want to put the receiver in the bumper, but they don't do that. Oh well, I have a receiver on the truck that's rock solid. And with two gas tanks I really don't see the need for a Jerry can. Further, I mounted the jack on the sidewall in the bed, so that isn't needed either. So when wants/wishes meet limited time/energy something has to give.

I think Jim was suggesting that you get the charge cable that goes from the 3G alternator to a fuse on the passenger's fender. Or it may go to a fuse in a power distribution box there. I don't think it actually goes to the starter relay, but I may be wrong on that. Still it is a good find. The air inlet line goes to the fender-mounted air box that is part of the EFI system. If you have factory EFI then you might be able to make it work.

Not saying I "need" it, but at that price it is about the price of a normal 130A 3G. Wouldn't mind having that much current available when winching or running the compressor.

Thanks, David. But I'm just the one trying to re-learn what I've forgotten about the Chevy engines. Bill is supplying the knowledge.

Just an update. I saw an advert for an Affordable Offroad bumper today and followed up. Their Elite bumper with a pair of 3/4" D-ring shackles, a spare tire carrier capable of 37" tires, 4x4" Nilight flush mount lights, all powder coated black comes in right at $1500 with free shipping. The bumper is made of 3/16" steel, so should be substantial. When Janey and I took Big Blue to New Mexico last year we had the bed FULL of suitcases and totes for the camping gear. If I get to do something like that again I think I'll put that bumper on. That will sure free up a lot of space in the bed by getting that 33" tire out of the middle of it.

I've asked that question multiple times. The best answer I got was that they, not DB, have them wound specially to put out more current and they put 220A diodes in. And with them if you want 440A you add on an external diode bridge.

Good luck. And let us know how it goes.

Wow! That IS a good deal. I'd buy one if I saw that kind of a deal.

Yep, that's the one. You can usually find them mounted to the brush carrier for about the same price, although I've not looked lately. But you'll have new brushes so you can easily move the LRC regulator onto your brush carrier.

I've looked at others but don't remember which ones. However you can see a little bit about it on the Invision forum we have up. Just go to Test Forums in the menu and pick Test Forum For Chris.

Sorry for the late response, but that is great articulation! On the sway bar links, do you pull a pin to disconnect? How hard is it to disconnect and how easy to reconnect? I'm not running a sway bar, and don't think I really need it, because I want the articulation.

If I understand right, you have 32 x 11.5 tires. Have you checked to see what width of wheel those tires should be on? I usually go to Tire Rack and find my tire and look at the specs for wheel width. I just looked and two tires of that size that I picked should be on 8 - 10" wide wheels. What wheel width do you have? Tires on too wide or narrow of a wheel do not handle correctly. And if the wheel doesn't have the proper offset and backspacing it messes up the handling as well. My SiL, TJ, bought a truck with way too wide of wheels and tires that don't fit them correctly - the sidewalls are rounded instead of being straight to the tread. And the handling is very poor. We attributed some of the problem to the steering box, but when we replaced it with a BlueTop we realized that a big part of it is the tires and wheels. They are getting replaced.

Are we really going to be relying on so much magic, Harry? Hoping there is still remaining a bit of techno behind the scene… Glad you will be one of the test pilots, Jeff. You know your way around Invision. As for the automagic bit, it has yet to be proven that it works.

This is the regulator. But you can find it with the brush set for about that price so shop around.

I'll bet you are right, that was the temp sender. I'll plug it. And I didn't mean I'd bypass the filter. Just plug it.

I agree with Jim. If the goal is EFI I'd go HEI now to get it running. But I'd not go with EEC-IV, I'd go EEC-V as it will tell you via the OBD-II port what the problems are. And with the MAF input it really doesn't matter what you do with the engine. I'm running L&L headers on Big Blue, but in truth the exhaust manifolds would have been as good - and quieter.