Gary Lewis

You wouldn't need to do the leak-down test before you go as you won't have time to repair the engine. If you are taking it on holiday then you need to figure out how often you need to check the oil level and take enough oil with you. Or use a brand you can easily buy on the trip. Then, when you get back, do the leak-down test and determine the path forward. But I doubt that you would be able to seat the rings now.

I would start by doing a leak-down test to determine if you have a poor seal on the rings.

Bummer, Jim! We do have the FSM section on them at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Power Steering, but I've not been into those things.

If we figure it out we need to record it. I can figure out where to do that.

No, I don't. But I have a bag full of them with short bits of Ford wires on them and would be happy to send you some. What wire colors do you need?

lol! Thank you, Vinny!

That is a bummer! Sorry that happened to you, but glad you got your money back. Yes, if you want to send another check that would be appreciated. This one didn't go through, surely due to your problems.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Sounds like a nice truck. How about posting some pics? You may want to refer to the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's to figure out how to post as this platform is wonky. But we are moving to a new platform soon that is much better at everything, including posting pics. Speaking of pages to look at, there is a map at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

That’s good news! I guess a bent connecting rod does make a difference.

Two steps forward and one backward is still progress.

I like Midwest Transmission. They've been good to me.

Everyone else went for a walk and left me alone for 15 minutes.

Ok, I've determined that your transfer case takes parts list #5E, as show below, which you can find on the Applications tab on the page at Driveline/Transfer Cases. So you should: Go to the page at Driveline/Transfer Cases & click on the NP208 tab Click on the Illustrations tab and see that the shift forks are base part number 7289 Click on the Parts Lists tab and note that the heading says Transmission Parts Lists 5A thru 5M Scroll down the 5E column until you find the 7289 base part numbers Note that in the E column you have two shift forks, and the correct one is determined by the manufacturing date on your tag - before or after 1/19/82. I think yours was manufactured on 5/28/82, so yours should take E1TZ 7289-B.

Ok, if you were in 2Hi then its alright. And popping out of gear is what I've seen when the plastic on the forks goes bad. But I can't read the #'s on that tag. Can you read them for me? I'll try to look up the parts list tomorrow.

Welcome! Glad you joined and glad you posted here. Where is home? I ask because we have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member’s Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city/state or Zip.

Welcome! Glad you joined the forum. However, you may have missed the email that Jim sent you asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself there before posting elsewhere. Until you do that people are reluctant to reply. Don't worry, this happens frequently and we get over it. But it is an important step because we have our guidelines in the NMSH folder and we will hold you to them. So it is important that you read them. Now, towards your problem. First, it sounds like you were driving in 4wd. Did you have the hubs locked in? Were you on dry pavement? That is a no-no and will destroy something. Hopefully you've not been doing that. As for the shift fork, I can research that tomorrow. But today is the last day my grandtwins will be with me for a few months so I'm otherwise occupied. So I can check tomorrow but I really need the info of the tag that should be on your transfer case. An aluminum tag that has the model and specific info that lets me look things up in the master parts catalog. So please go to the NMSH folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself there. And then in this thread come back with a pic of the tag off your t-case.

Nice! There are always lots of things to be resolved. But it looks to be in better shape than most.

I agree with Dane. Sometimes we overlook the close at hand. But you have a beautiful state. Bummer on getting sick, but at least the illness was fairly short-lived. Had it been COVID like is going around here it would have been a bigger, longer problem. As for the propane leak, I'd hope that is a fairly easy thing to solve. But solve it must be!

Louis was born a very few miles into Switzerland from France. I looked it up before we went to Alsace last year and found that the village is actually Swiss not French.

The show is to be Sept 14 at the Chuch of Christ in Skiatook, Ok. There will be a dinner at the same place the night before for forum members and others. I'll make an announcement soon. This has caught up with me apparently sleeping.

Thank you, David! I got it.

Congrats guys! I suppose you’re taking good notes and pictures to remember how to put it back… fonctional. Thanks, Jeff. But no notes, although several pictures. However it is pretty straightforward. There’s the throttle linkage, but it will probably need to be changed as the 216 gas what I think is a governor and the 235 doesn’t. And there’s the choke cable but the 235 has an automatic choke. Anyway, it is all pretty simple.

I'm not sure that's the right word, but I think it is. The driveshaft is enclosed and at the end of the transmission there's a spherical chamber in which ride the u-joints. And then a spherical piece attaches to that and to the "torque tube", as Chevy called the outside tube of the driveshaft assembly. full.full

Got the engine out! Man, was it a struggle! The first pic shows Ian cutting the last thing holding the engine in - the vacuum line, probably to the wipers. The next pic is proof we got it out. But it wasn't as easy as I expected. Even though we'd gotten most things loose/off yesterday there were still several today. The exhaust pipe, the throttle linkage, the clutch linkage, and the gimbal bearing. The latter was a particularly tough nut to crack. I don't have a pipe wrench large enough to get the nut off the back of the bearing housing, the one that goes around the torque tube. And my strap wrench wouldn't do the trick. So I used a chisel in the serrations and walked it off. Will need to dress the burrs, but it is still useable. That got us to the "u-joints" inside the gimbal bearing. There are two bearing caps and they are supposed to have two bolts each. One had only one bolt and the other bolt wasn't tight. The other cap had both bolts but neither were tight. Luckily someone had put the keepers on and that kept the bolts in place. Got the transmission off, but that was a challenge as the top two bolts go through the ears and into the bell housing. But the bottom two bolts come through the bell housing into the transmission. So the flywheel cover comes off and you peer up into the black abyss with the thing dangling on the shop crane . That got us to the bell housing which has the same thing - top two bolts through the ears into the block, but the bottom two bolts are from inside into the block, and the head of the bolts is ~1/4" from the flywheel. So obviously the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel have to come off to get to those bolts. We quit for the day as we have the front chain wrapped around the crank pulley, so it'll have to be shifted so we can rotate the crank and get to the bolts on the pressure plate and then the flywheel.

Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well done!!!! While any progress is good, that is a major step forward.