Gary Lewis

"-" is not.

Good luck!

That looks nice! And the bump stop is not only functional but adjustable.

I'm not a fan of the blacked-out look. I do like the way the factory did it, but blacking out the side moulding seems to call too much attention to it. And I'm not a fan of the added-on mirrors. Nor of the hot-air intake. But the pups are cute.

That's the kind of radio I want to put in Dad's truck. Looks factory but isn't.

Looks like fun!

It sounds like you may have the needle suspended incorrectly, causing it not to seat. This illustration from the factory shop manual (Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150) shows how it is supposed to be installed, but it is pretty easy to get it wrong and cause a problem. Luckily it is easy to take the top off the 2150 in situ and fix that.

Because. Because you have a C-II power steering pump. Because Ford cheaped out on them. Because you should install a Saginaw pump. Because. Seriously, that is a known problem with the C-II pump. If you turn the wheel with the engine off it sprays fluid through the itty bitty vent hole in the cap all over the engine compartment. Been there and had the mess to prove it.

Excellent!

I can't. Both are 32 gallons, not the 33 that is advertised, but there must be some other difference.

LOL! Let's not bet as Gary is frequently wrong. Interesting that the Broncos didn't get the large opening but the pickups did.

Looking good, Chris! On the gas, I had trouble getting that ring to seal on Big Blue. But with some lube and patience I finally got it and there's now no leak. Good luck. But what radio do you have which allowed you to use an app to adjust it? Jim and I have Sony radios that allow that, but yours looks like it is stock from this distance.

Well, it looks like Chad is right. Here's the response from JBG. And that should mean that you can use that sending unit/pump combo for an EFI system.

You can easily check the timing chain w/o removing the cover. Two ways: Pull the fuel pump and reach in with a hook and see how much slop there is. 1/2" is max. Bring #1 up on TDC by turning the engine clockwise with the 15/16" bolt on the crank balancer. And then remove the distributor cap. With the TDC mark lined up with the pointer gently turn the engine backwards (CCW) and stop when the distributor starts to turn. The timing marks show the amount of slop. Having said that, if the engine hasn't been rebuilt then the chain has to be worn. Still, checking before you plow ahead is good.

Chad - While the MPC doesn't give the size of the opening for the Broncos, something changed in 85 and it wasn't the tank size. I think it was the opening size as you can see that the 85 pickups got a 4" opening.

Ok, I've written them the message below and marked up their catalog page as well. We shall see what they say.

Oops! I don't believe that unit has a 2" flange. Ford went to the larger opening when the EFI systems came out in order to get the pumps through. So I think their listing is messed up in yet another way.

Their catalog is wrong. They are right that the sending unit for the 85 & 86 EFI'd Broncos is E5TZ 9H307-A. But they are wrong about the ohms range. As Jim said, the change happened in '87 not '85. All Bullnose trucks use the same fuel gauge, E0TZ 9280-A, so the resistance cannot have changed. I don't know if JBG has the wrong part or just the wrong resistance, but I'm going to write them about their catalog and direct them to this post as their catalog is wrong in one way or another.

Progress! Glad you like the results, but I'm looking forward to the trip report after you can take it for a nice, long, shakedown run.

If the bolt is that short then it may have been replaced. But you've had the truck for 33 years and until recently it has been reliable? That doesn't add up. As for what bent the push rods, someone on here recently had bent pushrods due to bad fuel. It gummed up the valve/guide clearance and the valves didn't want to open. But didn't you say you are running LPG? If so I wouldn't think you'd have the same problem. So about all I can imagine then is over revving. But a 302 shouldn't have problems with 5000 RPM, so maybe bad oil? The page at Documentation/Engines/General Engine Service has the 1985 factory shop manual section entitled General Gasoline Engine Service, and it has a discussion about lifters starting on Page 4. If your oil had something gummy in it the lifters could fail to compress and that could bend pushrods. So check out that section on how to clean lifters. And yes, valve guide replacement does require some special tools so I'd take the heads to an engineering shop.

My way of adjusting rear brakes is to tighten the adjuster until the shoes start to drag, then bang the backing plate with a rubber hammer to center the shoes and tighten some more. Repeat until you can't turn the wheel and back off 10 clicks. That gives the preset and then, if it is working, the auto adjusters should kick in when you back up.

You probably aren't asking me, but I've never replace the washer or the bolt and have not had problems.

I've said before, no one's ever accused me of being concise , but yes, it is a Johnson. I can't find any pictures to prove it right now, but if you saw the width of the 90° V-4 you'd know it wasn't a Merc! When we were getting the boat and I was asking for an OMC outboard the salesman asked if we wanted Johnson or Evinrude. I turned to Lesley and asked "white or blue?" The salesman said that they also had Johnsons in a charcoal, so we had three color choices. The charcoal engines were 2 models years old, but that brought the price down a bit. I probably would've picked charcoal anyway, but the lower cost made it an easy decision. Yes, it is easy to tell from the profile if it is a Merc or a Johnrude. But I forgot about the charcoal colored ones, which explains it. As for not being concise, they say it takes one to know one.

How 'bout valve covers instead?

I got lost in the dialog, but that doesn't look like a 140 HP Johnrude. Looks like a Merc to me. My brother had a Glastron rated for 115 HP and he put a 140 Johnson on it. (The same boat that James Bond flew in Live And Let Die, as shown below.) The lake patrol gave him some static so he put a 115 HP cover on it since the only difference was the carbs and the stuffer plate on the 140. That thing would fly. But OMC had a few problems with the 140's and two that I know of, my brother's included, peeled the rings off the top of the pistons. So he got a new 140. But somehow that engine found its way onto a Glastron 16' trihull which my folks had forever and then it was given to me. Engine was a beast but never liked to idle trimmed all the way in. But it sure would fly! Unfortunately the transom wasn't bonded very well to the hull, or maybe it really was only rated for 115 HP, and after I got it things started coming apart. So I gave it back to my brother and he put that 140 on a pontoon boat.