Gary Lewis

Jonathan - Get some photo editing app like Photoshop PS. I believe it is free, but if not it is cheap. With it you can rotate the pics by playing like you are going to crop them. But just opening and saving them seems to fix the orientation. Bill - I've done the same on a Windsor. Ain't easy, but far better than pulling things off. However, not having a bypass hose is even better. 😎 Back in '65 I was out on a date in my daddy's car. We hadn't driven very far, there in the road, straight ahead, a car was stalled, the engine was dead. Turned out it was Dad's 1964 Buick - the one I was driving. The bypass hose sprang a leak and squirted coolant on the distributor, and it died. Never got another date with her. 🙈

Ahh! Makes sense. Glad I asked. Thanks.

Jim - I think you are saying a decal could be cut and installed in the recess if folded in half and laid in. Like maybe a 460 decal? Thanks. 👍

Bummer! Those things are a pain. Did you get it on w/o removing anything else? That's one advantage of the 335 series engines - internal bypass so no hose. The downside is that you have to have the right thermostat, but since Tim is now having those made it isn't a problem.

The catalog shows the black grille was used through '86. And, it also shows the upper and lower moulding was available in black from '82 on, meaning through '86, but 'w/"XLS" option'. But, the 1985 catalog makes no mention of XLS, and I've OCR'd it so it would show up in my search if it were there. So, we have the catalog suggesting that the XLS option went from '82 to '86, and saying the black grille and headlight doors were used through '86. But, the brochures don't substantiate that. I side with the brochures as they were short and therefore easier to get right. And because I know of lots of errors in the catalog. Now, having said all that, there's nothing to say a 1985 Lariat XLT Explorer couldn't have come with a black grille and headlight doors. Maybe not a true XLS, but we have the catalog suggesting it could happen.

Well, there's a question that I hope our resident XLS guru will answer, at least on his to-be XLS page. The catalog shows those gloss black doors are for an 82-86 truck. But, there is no mention of XLS in the 1981 or 1985 brochures I have, although it does show in the 1982 brochure I found on a handy web site, with the page shown below. So, when we get this nailed I want to note that in the catalog, and therefore on the web page. In a way it is a pity that the option wasn't available in 1985. Can you image whomever optioned Big Blue with the order sheet? I'll bet he'd have checked that box as he sure didn't miss many boxes. Hmmm, perhaps I should create one? 1985 Lariat XLT Explorer XLS?

Good questions as well. My plan is to use the east lot, as shown below, for the show and swap meet. Plus the welding display and Tim's engine stuff - as shown by the red rectangles on the east side of the east lot. And, I thought we would park our trucks in the parking slots for the show. As for the swap meet there are at least two choices. One would be inside the gym using tables that our church has, but covered to protect them a bit. Or, we could carry the tables outside if the weather is good and take some chairs to sit on. Thoughts? I would cherish some input on this as I'm just making it up as I go, and I've never done it before. Ever.

Ok, in my gathering of things for the swap meet I'm wondering how much, if any, labeling is needed. To be honest, it has been 20 years since I've been to a swap meet, so I am not familiar with it. So, here are some specific questions: Do things need to be labeled in case I'm not right there? I have a Powermaster alternator that failed on Big Blue. I don't know what it wrong with it, so do I need to put a tag on it explaining what little I know? I have a never used, freshly rebuild 2G alternator. Do I need to tag it as that, or will guys be able to figure it out? Are things usually priced, or is the expectation that you'll throw out a price and haggle?

David posted a link in the eBay Finds thread to a headlight door, so I went to the Exterior section to check the number on it. Turns out I didn't have headlight doors nor grilles in, but I've added them now to the Grilles, Moulding, & Headlight Doors tab here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/exterior-trim-and-moulding.html.

Pretty! Were those for an XLS? The catalog just says "w/gloss black option". And, thanks for posting that. It helped 'cause I thought I'd check the ID # on the web site, and discovered that I didn't have the headlight doors nor the grilles on there. But, now they've been added on the Grilles, Moulding, & Headlight Doors tab here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/exterior-trim-and-moulding.html.

What size are those rectangles on the valve covers? I'm thinking both about a label to put there as well as the base for a wire separator. And, I think it was Reamer. Perhaps he will chime in. One possibility is this from CJ's, which measures 7/8" x 3-1/4":

With Mike's agreement, because only he and I had pictures in there, I deleted the "Bullnose Gallery" that was on a separate page from the forum itself. That's because it required a separate registration and log-in from the forum, and that was both a pain and confusing. So, you should now use the "Picture Gallery" w/in the forum. And, today I discovered/remembered that we can have a "favicon" for this site, meaning the whole of Garysgaragemahal, not just the forum. A favicon shows up on the tab you have open in your browser, at least it does on computers, and lets you see at a glance which tab you might want instead of having to read. Examples are the "G" with a circle around it for Google Search, the "f" set in a square for Facebook, and "P" all by itself for Pandora Radio. However most of the one's I've tried don't really work as you can't tell what they are. But, the Ford logo seems to work, the one that is on the '82-'86 grilles, although it is possible that Ford might complain - although I doubt it as we are small potatoes and it really is a way of advertising for them. Ford uses the script "F" from that logo on their site, so it won't exactly be confused with theirs. And then I hit on the Bullnose. What do you think?????

Jim - My brother has DeWalt stuff and really likes it, but he's going to the 20v lithium batteries as he can. But, his sons have Ridgid like I do, and he says if he'd known about the battery warranty before he bought he probably would have gone with Ridgid instead. Chris - Milwaukee tools are supposed to be top notch as well. Are those the lithium batteries? As for what I have: Drill R86006: Purchased in Dec of 2007, this one has served me well. But, since I bought the new one, see below, it'll go to my SiL who has a Ridgid impact like the next one down. This drill has more power than I can handle on 1 if the bit gets stuck, so I have to be careful and run the clutch down a bit. Impact R8823: Purchased in Dec of 2007, this thing has driven many, many screws. And, it can take off many nuts/bolts on trucks, but it just isn't quite enough for some things when running on the 18v batteries that I have. However, it is a dual-voltage unit and supposedly can take 24v batteries, although I've never had those batteries to try them. Never had a problem with it, and it has gone to my son, who has a Ridgid drill, like the one above. Impact R86010B: This is the 1/2" impact, and it was purchased in Dec of 2014. It has 325 ft/lbs of torque, and it'll get almost anything off on these trucks. But, it really likes the 4 amp/hr batteries better than the 1.5 amp-hr ones. Hammer Drill R86116: This drill is smaller than the R86006 it is replacing, but includes hammer and impact modes - with the impact mode supposed to deliver 60 ft-lbs of torque, which is everything the R88823 impact was said to deliver. But, I haven't had a chance to push it as I just bought it in July of 2017. Impact R86037: Three-speed impact that will allow you to install screws in plastic items w/o breaking them when on "1". But, on "3" has 188 ft-lbs of torque, far more than the 60 or so the R8823 it is replacing in my kit was said to have. So, it should be a very versatile tool in the shop. Reciprocating Saw R8642: This thing is my go-to saw for anything from a little board to smaller trees. I have 12" blades for it, and it'll chew up a tree very quickly - if you give it the power it wants from a 4 amp-hr battery. But, on 1.5 amp-hr batteries it'll kick the circuit breaker in the battery pretty quickly. It is a serious saw. Jobmax R223500: This is a 12v tool with interchangeable heads. I have two - a right-angle drill and a right-angle impact, both of which will let you get into really tight places. It has plenty of power for small jobs, and the versatility is very helpful in tight quarters. Batteries & Chargers: As said, in 18v I have a mix of 1.5 and 4 amp-hr batteries, with the larger ones used mainly on the saw or the 1/2" impact where they make a big difference. But, they also work well on the smaller tools. However, the battery sizes also have their own chargers as the smaller batteries won't charge on the larger charger, and vice versa. Also, I have one 12v battery and charger, and that gets me by handily since I don't need the smaller guy all that often. But, I leave the battery in the charger so it is ready to go when I do need it. In closing, note that my son had a drill and my son-in-law had an impact. So, my purchase of the R9205 kit with the new drill, impact, and larger batteries was serendipitous in that I got new tools and bigger batteries, and both of them got a tool they didn't have. That was part of the justification of buying the tools.

They look great. 👍 So good that I may order the other set on eBay. Tim has replied that his supplier doesn't have the flat ones in stock and doesn't have an ETA, so the OMC's look like the way to go. What do you thing about placing wire separators in the blank spot? Or, maybe I could come up with a special badge?

Interesting. That Bee doesn't have the 383 badges that at least the 69's had, and I thought the 68's should have. But I don't know. I do agree about people getting too close while trailering. Some are just .... dumb. When pulling the 25' Sea Ray to Lake Powell one year ago right now we had someone in a little car drafting. I had extended mirrrors on and they were so close I couldn't see them. If I'd hit the brakes there's no way they could have avoid hitting the outdrive, and they had no way at all of seeing what was ahead of us to tell if I might hit the brakes. Plus, had I not been watching them come up and then disappear I wouldn't have known not to hit the brakes. 🙈

Yes, I believe! Good job! Does the one valve cover have a label on it? Or did it? Does it say Cobra? Can't quite tell. But they look great. 👍 The work on the EGR plate looks great as well. And the carb cleaned up nicely. You did well!

Yes, someone may well be interested. After church yesterday we had lunch at Ron's, the hamburger place we've gone to several times. There was a cute '40 Ford pickup parked in front, so we took at table at the front to see whose it was. When the guy walked out to it I went out to talk to him. He'd already seen the flyer and was thinking of coming - especially since there will be a swap meet. Given that, I'm gathering things for "swapping" as well. And I need to remind at least all the locals about that. I have told Cash about it and suggested we put "his" door panels in - the ones he dropped off here some time ago to pass on to someone. Anyway, we need to get some parts there so people will have something to swap. Thanks for starting this thread. 👍

Here's a tease for you.. Cool! Didn't need the tag shot, it is obviously a '68. The round marker lamps and the tail lights make it obvious - to me. 👍 Thanks for sharing!!!! 👌

Ok, you are just going to tease me? Mention it but don't tell me what it was. As for the carb and power, can you tell a point in the part throttle acceleration when the power picks up? Might be easiest to tell with a vacuum gauge on, but it will be the point where the metering rods pop up. Will be between 3" & 8", but varies with the springs in it. If the power picks up some when the rods pop up but you are still down on power then you are lean across the board. On the secondaries, it is possible they are adjusted such that they aren't opening, or not opening early enough. There should be a set screw and an adjustment screw on the driver's side basically on the end of the secondary air valve's shaft. Hold the adjusting screw, back off the set screw, loosen the adjusting screw a bit, and tighten the set screw. You should be able to get them to open at even low RPM if you get to ~2/3 throttle, and the engine may bog. But at least you know they are working, and you can tighten the setting up to get them to open at what you consider the right point. And, it is also possible the secondaries are just too lean. I have a kit that may have some jets and rods that will work, although I will have to look. So when you want to start tuning I'll send it to you if it has usable rods and jets.

We have several stations that carry straight gas in several grades, and that's what most people use for small engines. And all the marinas I've been to only carry straight gas. I sure wish they'd change that law.

I'm gonna guess the reason it doesn't pull as hard as the Holley is that it is much leaner. Are we talking part-throttle or WOT? As for the miss, if the leak-down finds it then it might be a burned valve. But that wouldn't give the noise, which might be loose rocker or bent push rods. However, they wouldn't give a miss would they?

In fact, the number 9850398 doesn't show in the catalog. Here's as close as it gets:

Yes, the ethanol is a big issue. It is amazing what it does to the rubber lines in the old trucks.

Welcome to the forum! Might you want to tell people what "pebcak" means? (I know - I was in IT.)

This page says that badge was used only in 80 & 81: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/name-plates.html. But those bumper guards look strange. I've never seen any for the rear, and the catalog doesn't list them. Nor does the 1981 Accessories brochure, shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-accessories.html. (Note the pics of the bed rails on Page 11.)