Gary Lewis

You are special. And Bill is special. And sometimes I'm special. And there are probably others that are sometimes special. But we can't seem to find a common denominator with why it happens some times and not others. So, with you does it only happen when you are on your phone? Have you noticed anything else that might help?

Good idea, Bill. I actually have one you sent me a few years ago, and could do it like shown below. And, I would put a tank in, probably under the bed, with a pressure switch to bring the compressor in. Plus a switch in the cab to turn it on. But, I don't think I need the in-cab gauge that the Viair system has. However, I will need to figure out where to put a quick-disconnect port.

Wow! Beautiful! But, I'm not ready to fork out $200 for just the fog lamp bezel. Perhaps if it were a full instrument bezel w/the fog lamp bezel on it, and maybe with the switch. But.... Now, if we wanted to band together and buy it to have it 3D scanned and then printed.......

As an update on the York compressor possibility, I've taken it as far as I can at the moment, and am looking for input. As explained below, I can see how to fairly easily make a mounting plate for it to attach where the AIR/smog pump went. However, if it is to be driven off of the alternator's belt it will cut the "purchase" of said belt on the alternator by something like 40%. That's shown by the red arrows, which show approximately where the belt goes tangential to the pulley. The top and bottom ones mark the current "purchase", and the middle one shows about where the belt would come off if the York compressor was being driven by it. Is this too much reduction? As for how to mount it, here's a pic of the compressor sitting almost against the alternator/pump bracket: And here's the same shot with a bracket drawn in. It would bolt to the top of the compressor, and there are mounting bolt holes there, and it would have lips that stick up and are then captured by a through-bolt that goes through the pivot point for the smog pump. And then there would be an arm from the plate that was secured in the anchor hole for the smog pump shown here:

Bill - Got it. Now I understand, and that would make a convenient junction. Could be put right where the pipes are cut and not have to weld them together, just bolt them. But, that flange look huge and it hangs down. I'm not sure we want something hanging down that much to get caught on things. Is there a smaller version?

Jonathan - I'm gonna have to see pics of the tracks out of the Bricknose to understand. But, not right now. You are busy getting ready to go on vacation, and I'm supposed to be finishing the stripping of Huck - although I'm really fitting a 3G to its engine and checking to see how I might fit a York where the AIR pump went. Speaking of the York, the gentleman that made the brackets got back and said he doesn't make them anymore. Further, he doesn't share his drawings. So, maybe I can figure out how to do it. Or, convince Luke that he needs to get rid of that problem and go electric.

Bill - I thought I remembered that the head ports were different on both sides, so both EFI intake and exhaust manifolds are required. But, since I have those from Huck, not problemo. And, I have the complete exhaust, as shown below. All that has to be done is to weld them back together, and that's not too hard. But, are you suggesting that I put flanges there and then be able to replace the rear section and the mufflers? Speaking of mufflers, are those original? Look like more glass packs to me. What I'd really like is a Magnaflow 2-in/2-out right there. I may check into that. As for the book, at least it'll get me started. Yes, the ECU I'll use, if I go this way, will be the one from Jim's 1995 F450, so the book won't cover the latest capabilities. But, hopefully it'll have the concepts, inputs and outputs, wiring, etc.

Sorry for the confusion on that. I love the seats and console in the regular cab. What I am barely tolerating is the 40/20/40 seat pan mounting system. Most of this is cosmetic. It shows too much. The individual chairs and console leave a lot of ugly black metal frame exposed and the early console sits too high (if front is shimmed/blocked) or it sits too far back if the slope is placed behind the pan. It interferes with the correct seat belt receivers (again cosmetic, but the 40/20/40 receivers look way different and have an integral center belt that needs cut off leaving slots in the sheath). The sliding track for the seat sticks out past the corner of the cushion and it kept catching my pant leg. I rounded it off with a file so it does not do that anymore, but it just looks and feels a bit like a hack. It may look better once I get black carpet in the truck and the frame will blend in. The receivers will basically be hidden by the console, and once mounted well everything may look and feel more like it came that way. The crew cab will show from the back and I just don't think it will be acceptable for me. And I might even opt for drilling and shimming the original seat tracks for both trucks if I don't like the end results with the seat pan and early console. Oh, ok. So, in thinking about it there are two issues to be considered: comfort of the seats and convenience of the console, and what it looks like. And it is the latter which concerns you. Got it. And, for Big Blue that may not be a problem, although I don't know yet. But, for Dad's truck it will probably be a problem. So, we need to come up with a better way to mount the buckets. If we knew someone that could draw up the needed brackets and had the equipment to fabricate them we'd be "in". Seriously though, we should consider that. Perhaps it is a project Ron/Reamer will want to undertake?

Jonathan - Thanks for the offer. I will keep it in mind, but you might watch for a good pair of captain's chairs in blue. And, hopefully soon, I'll try the ones I have in Big Blue so will know what I think of them. But, you said "I am barely tolerating it in my single cab...". So, tell me more. That's not what I gathered from your previous post. On the carpet/bed liner issue, I'm pretty sure to stay with carpet for the interim, but when it comes out for the ZF to go in it would be an ideal time to at least spray the bed liner in, even if I go back with carpet. At least it would be better sealed - I think.

Thanks, Bill. If I decide to go that way I'll contact Matt, although I'm not sure I still have his email address, so if you don't mind emailing it to me I would appreciate it. Going with the EEC-IV system would actually be pretty easy as I have everything needed. In fact, I have this book coming in on Thursday: But, do you know if the exhaust manifolds are different between the carb and EFI heads? If so, that would mean that I need to go with stock manifolds, which I have from Huck. And, it would solve the exhaust problem since I have a complete exhaust system, although it does have to be welded back together.

Not to sidetrack the conversation, but I've been emailing with Luke of Big Blackie fame from FTE. You'll remember that he put a York compressor on Big Blackie for on-board air, and I asked how he did it. He explained that he used a bracket made by North Country Specialities, but that he's not sure they are still making it. Turns out he got the prototype and the guy told him he was getting no orders so may not continue to market them. But, I've emailed him to see what the availability is, nonetheless. But, if he has them his web site says they are $250/ea. Luke said the clutch bearing on his seized on his trip from Oregon to Kansas and he was stranded for a time as it stopped the belt from turning, and that's the one for the alternator as well. In fact, he said "...if I were to do it again I might be tempted to just put a Viair along the frame rail somewhere and call it good. If it went bad, oh well, the engine still runs. You would definitely be in for a lot less work to take the electric route." That got me to thinking, so I checked out the Viair systems. Their Heavy Duty model is available for $288 from Amazon and is a complete system, including air tank, compressor, switch, etc. It puts out 2.62 CFM, but that is misleading as that is at 0 PSI, and anything above 40 PSI it goes below 2 CFM. Plus, it only has a 33% duty cycle. Further, it says it will take tires the size of those on Big Blue from 15 to 30 PSI in 2 minutes, but I normally run the tires at more like 40/45 PSI, and if they are loaded they are to have 80 PSI - although loaded is 3,750 lbs. In contrast, the York/Tecumsehs I have are said to be the sought-after 10 CI ones, according to the Ranger Station. And, according to this page they put out ~6 CFM @ 90 PSI. So, I'd have gobs of air, but would have to piece together the "system", meaning add a tank, get a pressure switch, create the wiring, etc. As for the potential of having the clutch bearing fail, I would think that I could also have a belt with me that was the correct size for the alternator w/o the compressor. Or, carry a spare clutch and belt. But, I've not seen a bearing failure like that and have been around a lot of vehicles with those compressors, so I think that is rare. Thoughts?

Your truck doesn't weigh nearly as much as Big Blue, so won't need the same tires. And they are 32.9" tall, so bring the overall gearing up 4% over stock tires. But, the 460 doesn't mind, so 2nd gear starts are easy when unloaded. But the T19 is effectively a 3-speed tranny when starting in 2nd, so it leaves a lot to be desired. Anyway, glad the wheels are almost there. Looks like you'll have them for the trip after all. And, they look good - as does the Bronco.

David - Makes sense. Or cents? After all, with billions of vehicles going out, saving pennies here and there made a huge difference. Besides, our trucks were made in a transition period. Prior to them the trucks were real trucks with few amenities and not much worry about dolling things up. Ours were starting to have glitz, but nothing like later ones. So, they didn't worry too much about color-matching everything inside, like they did with the cars, which had been glitzy for years. Decades? So, if they could save a few $.01's somewhere, and David's theory would do it, they would.

Jonathan - What about a rubber mat over sprayed-in bed liner? Wouldn't the bed liner prevent the rust? And provide a bit of sound reduction? But, I take your point about a rubber mat over carpet, which would be easier to do. However, the carpet has to come out to put the ZF in as I'll have to go with the tall tranny cover, so could spray in the bed liner then. Maybe that's a good idea anyway if there's no rust? Glad to see that the buckets (captain's chairs, actually) work, albeit with some issues. But at least they allow you to get situated correctly. And, I like the body-hugging part of them as well, which would come in handy for the overlanding/off-road part. Plus, if we do go to the North Rim, I already know it is a long drive out there, so the extra comfort won't go un-appreciated. As for trying Dad's in Big Blue, I wasn't thinking of doing so on that trip. Just around here to see that we like them. On the console, it took a bit of machining to create the spacers for Dad's truck in order to use the later console. Yes, it doesn't look quite right, but only you and I know that, and it gives much better cup holders, although the early one can be modified. Anyway, if you find you don't like your seats, perhaps you'll want to sell them and the seat track? On the length issue, Big Blue sits high enough that I'm hoping it won't be a problem. And, from what I've seen in the pictures and videos, we won't be needing to turn too tightly. But, you've been all over that country and I haven't, so I'm sure you know much better than I do. As for the weight, yes that could be an issue. But, with the weight comes bigger tires to spread the weight, so I'm hoping we won't have a problem. And the gentleman at 4wd Parts in Tulsa, who may join here as he has an '86 Bronco and wants a Bullnose shortbed, has a 90's F250 Crewcab long-bed and it is tricked out w/everything and he uses it almost every weekend for overlanding. However, until we get some experience it might be best to make the additions to Big Blue things that could also be moved over to a Bronco. Bill - Thanks. If the EEC-V system isn't there when Dyn goes, I may put the EEC-IV system on. That was my thinking when I got the parts from Jim and bought Huck so I'd have plenty of parts. I'm assuming that a '95 F450's computer had OBD and it'll give some sort of diagnostics? As for the miss, it comes and goes and isn't noticed except at the exhaust. There was a point yesterday when I put my foot over one tailpipe and heard it, but then it went away almost immediately. And the vacuum gauge was the same before and after. I wonder about the plugs. These are the ones that Vernon had in and they went through the gasoline bath. Might one of them be bad?

I'll ask the same question here as I did on Facebook and text - why is #4, which is after the bowl work, worse than #3 until you get to .4" of lift? Is there anything Eric can do to get it flowing better at low lift?

Yep, I swapped a ZF5 into Dad's truck and used the driveshafts that were on the C6. Retained the NP208 and that meant the shafts fit right back.

Hope you get your wheels in time. And understand the concern about tires. Fortunately Vernon did his research and Big Blue is wearing Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx tires in LT285/75R16. They are Load Range E and have a 3,750 # rating, with 7 plies in the tread and 3 in the sidewall. As for the tranny, there's always the ZF5, which has the low 1st and nice OD. I loved it in Dad's truck, but never towed with it, so we will see what I think about it when in Big Blue as he tows often. Anyway, at least you can get things rolling in 4lo on this trip and change later if needed.

Yes, it is 7" farther back than the C6 and 6" farther back than the ZF5. I took lots of measurements, but the plan is to lay the engine/tranny combo in, gently, with the cab raised on the lift. I'll block the back of the tranny with the engine sitting on its mounts, and then insert the crossmember where it needs to be rather than where the measurements say. But, I'll have the measurements for reference. Anyway, thanks.

Today I tried to post three YouTube videos and couldn't get them to work, so contacted Nabble support. Turns out that the code YouTube gives you when you say Share and then Embed has extraneous stuff in it that kills the post. Further, when you try to fix it there is something weird with Google Chrome that gives an error message. But, Edge seems to fix it. And, what you have to take out are gesture="media" and the allow="encrypted-media" bits from this one, which is what YouTube gave me: And when done it looks like:

Thanks, Ray!

Pete - I agree about the cam, and suspect that the Edelbock Performer is, indeed, an SD-compatible cam. Here's a link to three youtube videos I shot this afternoon. The engine was warm, the choke was off, the gauge was connected to a vacuum port on the carb, and the speed was 500 RPM: Given that, I'm pretty sure that speed-density/bank-fire would work fine. But, if Dyn can get the parts I need for MAF/SEFI/OBD-II then that's what I would prefer.

Well, Dyn Blin may have hit the jackpot. As shown below, he's found a `96 F250 4wd manual tranny truck w/a 460 and EEC-V & MAF, which should mean it is sequential-fire. It appears to be missing a few things, but I think it will be a good match for what I have. Here's the plan, assuming all of this stuff is there when he goes back: Dyn is to get: Intake air hoses, air filter with bracket, and MAF. Plus the front harness all the way from firewall plug to A/C system plugs, as well as the EEC box, associated through-firewall gasket, and ignition module and heat sink. Also, I'm questioning whether the EEC-IV power distribution center that I have will work with EEC-V w/o a lot of work, so would like him to get that as well, although it may be considered part of the front harness and is, therefore, already included. I'll use from what I got from Jim and Huck: The lower and upper plenum, throttle body, fuel lines, pumps, rails, and injectors. I'm sure that we are forgetting something that is needed off the one in CA, so please chime in if you spot it. Also, Bill has called dibbs on several other things as we are working in the background with Dyn. And, I thank Dyn in advance for his scouting trip last weekend and the upcoming retrieval trip.

Remember, guys, that Tim is just using my lower plenum to create an adaptor to the Holley upper. But he also has my Truck Flow upper, which is what I'll use. So, what you are seeing isnt what I'll have. Hopefully Tim will post pics of my upper and lower together so we will see the real thing.

Bigger and heavier. Wow! Ok, got the tranny crossmember off, which will go with the tranny to Dad's truck. And I got the engine on the stand. Now I have to accurately measure where the holes are for the crossmember to ensure I get it where it should be on Dad's truck. And, strip a few more things off the frame and it'll be time to lower the cab back down and bolt it on.

Time for a couple of updates. First, I got the shipment from Ray today. Thanks, Ray!!! It has two EEC-V ECU's, one for an E4OD and one for a 4R100. And the engine harness, and power distribution block, and on and on and on..... Now I have most of what is needed to put MAF SEFI on Dad's truck. Second, Tim posted on Facebook a few pics of my Trick Flow lower plenum mocked up with the Holley upper: