Gary Lewis

Eli! Welcome! You sure have some interesting projects.

Someone we know would say "Another clueless ebay seller!"

Someone didn't think so - it is already sold. Hmmmmmm

I agree that it is more "squeezed". Unfortunately there are no controls on width, but I did try to stretch it - and it was such a mess I had to close the app. I'm going to play with it today to try to get it where I think it needs to be and is ready for some dimensions later. Then I can adjust it and, hopefully, make it correct.

Jonathan - I'll play with spacing. Like maybe a space between each letter. I already have two spaces between the words.

Did a little more playing. Ran the font through a service on-line that said that Kasse FLF is the best font, so downloaded and installed it. And it is pretty close. However, as you'll see, the distance from the left of the F to the right of the P in FOG LAMP isn't as much as on the bezel - even though the height of the letters is what Jonathan measured. I can probably stretch the lettering to make it longer, but I think that will make it look odd, so am wondering if the letters really need to be different. Anyway, the letters are randomly placed on the bezel, so don't read anything into their position. And, for Pete, here's a head-on shot. Much easier to compare to Jonathan's pic.

I'm pretty sure that Jonathan does, and he said he will get pics of it ASAP and post here. And I have an early and a late tank selector switch, which have the right arm on them so we could have the right knob. The hope is that we can figure out how to use the selector switch as the fog lamp switch, although it will take some adaptation for mounting. But, if someone can find a switch that attaches via a nut on the barrel and has a flat arm to take the knob, maybe that would work.

Pete - Good point on the bead. I'll check out the bezels I have to see what theirs are like. But confirmation from people who have the fog lamp bezel would still be helpful as I'd like it as close to original as is possible. As for CAD, I'm using TurboCAD, which I've used for a long time but am growing very tired of. However, in things like this I don't find a 2D projection to be helpful. For instance the shape of the bead is almost impossible for me to grasp w/o some angle to the view.

Also, Jonathan, I've found a font that closely resembles whatever Ford used. However, when I use a 1/8" tall font the resulting FOG LAMPS is too short end to end. So, could you re-measure the height of the characters? And, maybe measure the length of those two words, together? 😎

Let's take this conversation over to the thread called Fog Light Bezel, Switch, etc.

Here's my first attempt at creating the base bezel. And, while it is really hard to see in the picture, I may not have the bead correct. I don't think we have a measurement on its width, but I have it drawn at 1/16". Also, I don't know if the "filet" on it correct, and by that I mean the curve that rounds the corner at the top of the bead. I have the radius as 1/64", but I can't tell from the pictures if the bead has a flat top or if it is round. If so I need to set the radius to 1/32", and as I look more closely at your photo that's what it looks like. Also, if it is easy when you are measuring the width of the bead, could you measure the centerline of the lettering? I can also interpolate, but it would be nice to have something to check my measurements against. And, what about the distance the lever opening is from the bottom - or top?

Ray - I'm providing the venue. You guys are doing all the good work.

And you went with the blue ones also? With the ones you went with do you have to watch how they are installed +/- so they will work? When I did LED's on my AMC Javelin they could only go in 1 way to work so I bench tested the cluster and good thing as I had a few that did not work and had to be turned 180*. Did you go with Super Bright's LED's? Have a part number? May get them to have on hand if/when I change them out. Dave ---- I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y1CFAB2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. And they do have to be oriented correctly or they won't work. But, to tell the truth, if I had it to do over again I might go with white LED's. The blue is a bit much and I'd like to see if the white is easier to read at night.

Bill - Good thinking. A quick check on Big Blue shows that all of his plumbing is there, meaning for both tanks and the 6-port valve, and it is using the nylon lines. And the 6-port valve sits at the front edge of the front tank, about 27" back of the cross member. It looks to me like the best bet would be to find a 1985.5/1986 5.0L or a 1987 - 89 truck with an EFI'd 4.9, 5.8, or 7.5L engine in a salvage and get the lines, reservoir/valve, pump, and filter - along with their brackets and shields. I'll probably replace the pump, filter, and reservoir/valve, but the brackets, shields, and lines would be very helpful. And, if not: Tank to Reservoir/Valve: I'll use Big Blue's existing tank to 6-port valve lines from both the rear tank and the front tanks, although there may be a problem as one set of lines comes in from the bottom on the 6-port and I don't know where they come in on the reservoir/valve combo. So I may have to cut the 90 degree ends off and put straight ones on. Reservoir/valve to Pump: I'll probably have to make new lines for this application if I don't find them at a salvage. Pump to Filter/Pump To Engine: I should be able to use the existing lines to the engine from Huck as I'll want to go up the back side of the engine just like on Huck to connect to the regulator and rail. So I'll want to try to position the filter right where it is on Huck to facilitate that. Does that make sense?

I guess it is good, but I was really wondering if the precision had gotten better. A few years ago I was reading that you needed to smooth the parts somewhat after printing. Has it gotten better such that something like the fog light bezel might come out ready to paint? Or will it still take some smoothing?

Stand up guy is an under statement. Again thank you Jonathan. Just have to figure how the lines get run to what vacuum motors when I get to that point. Gary, Thanks on the gauge looks. At this time I am going with the stock 194 bulbs. As said the filters were in great shape, no frosting at all on them and why I left them. Unlike the ones that came out of my trucks cluster. They were dried out, turning white and some just fell apart as I was removing them from the cluster. If the ones I left in look like the truck was kept in a garage & out of heat and if they were even a little bad they would of been pulled. Now if I feel I don't get the light needed to see the gauges I will pull them and replace the bulbs with 194B (B=blue) as I seen posted. I think going with LEDs they will be too bright and with out work (resistor that you do) or special LED bulbs I would not be able to dim them, time will tell. Dave ---- ps: just got thinking of the HVAC panel lighting. I think 1 of the panels has the light need to see what that is like. While we went to great lengths to make David's LED's dim, in the end it wasn't worth it and he usually runs them on full from what he said. So, when I did the conversion on Big Blue I didn't bother and I like them on full.

Wow - that's the most simple vacuum diagram that I've seen on these trucks!

Yes, I got the fuel lines with Huck. But they are really just a big Y, with the supply of both tanks Y'd and going to the supply side of the filter, and from the filter to the regulator. And the return side Y's from the tanks and goes to to return from the fuel rail. So I can cut off bits an pieces from that to use and then graft on. For instance, if the reservoir/valve was properly placed I could cut the supply and return lines just after they Y and put new connectors on to go from the reservoir/valve to the high-pressure pump. But, that may only save a fitting or two and a few feet of line. What were you thinking?

Sounds like a plan, Ron. Have the 3D printers improved in the two or three years since we started playing with printing things? I ask because the fog light bezel is going to need to have very smooth and precise features, and last I knew the printers weren't that good. Maybe they are now? Also, don't miss Grumpin's "That Dash Patch sounds interesting" in WHYDTYTT. Perhaps you want to put up pics in the Picture Gallery of the patch and how to get one, and then share a link with Grumpin?

Interesting. I just assumed that the supply would be larger than the return as there would be more volume in the supply. But, if they want to keep the pressure high then I could see a smaller line there, and then a bigger one to make the return easy. Thanks.

I think I should have named this the Bullnose Brotherhood or somesuch. Well done guys!

The acronyms are shown here: Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Diagrams. (I know that is hard to find because I just had to search for it. So, if anyone has suggestions please let me know.) The big fitting on top of the bowl goes to the charcoal canister below the battery. The bigger of the two on the bottom of the carb is for the PCV valve. And the little one is probably ported vacuum, although it may be hard to tell until you have the engine running. If you turn the carb over you may be able to tell if you trace that port - if it goes below the throttle plate it is manifold vacuum, and if it is just above the throttle plate it is ported vacuum.

I had a similarly vague recollection - but couldn't find anything on it. Sorry. Now that you've mentioned it and when I did find it. But, now we have it in one place that should be easily found. And I'll put your pic from that email in the gallery as well. Thank you very much. And, I do understand all you have written. It is clear and straightforward.. I'll do some more up-to-speed work this afternoon and see if I can make progress.

Yep, the extra depth of the cup holders is what I was talking about. And, you can remove them to drop bigger things in - assuming they'll catch before going all the way through. On the dash, you might consider trying the dash patch that Reamer has. We designed it together and he has them 3D printed. But, I've been planning to redraw that so it would be a catchall, somewhere you can put things if you don't have a console. But, a console would be wonderful!