Gary Lewis

Bill - I can't comment on your writeup on Darth, but it and the picture gallery are really taking shape. You are going to have one of the best-documented trucks around. Good job!

I spent some time today trying to remember how to CAD. And I've forgotten a whole bunch of it. However, I'll persist until I get it drawn. But, I already know I need some more measurements. Here's what I'd really like to have to get this thing accurate: Length, width, and height using calipers. It'll be so much more accurate if I don't take measurements from pictures as parallax is going to be a problem otherwise. Radius of the corners Bead: I need the thickness and height of the bead that runs around the edge, and the radius of the inside corner. Probably the best way to measure that is with a drill bit. (I said "inside corner" as it appears to me that the outside corner starts where the inside does, so just measure one and I'll figure out the other. Also, is the top of the bead flat or is it really just one big curve? Lettering: Height and width of the letters, again using calipers. Width and height of the slot, and the radius of the ends. diameter and length of the studs on the back. HOWEVER, I don't see a need to make the back of the bezel hollow as the original is, so if you measure the overall length of the stud down to the bottom of the hollow then also give me the depth of the hollow. Thanks!

Which Dorman kit did you get? There seems to be a million of them. As for the pic, I pulled the front pump and sending unit out of Huck's tank today and compared it to the new one I have from Vernon. What a difference in size! And, I told you that I'm using Big Blue as a learning exercise for Dad's truck. Whatever fuel system I come up with for Big Blue, assuming it works well, will go on Dad's truck. Progressing on multiple fronts.

Dave - Jonathan is a real stand-up guy. He's crashing to get ready for his own vacation and yet spent the time to get your stuff and ship it to you. He's a real brother. Your gauges came out good. However, depending on what color bulbs you put in I'm not sure I'd leave the filters in. What are your plans?

Ray/NotEnoughTrucks is the real deal, so if you are interested in his harness don't be worried.

I'm sorry. But, what little face? And did you change computers? Do anything different? I'm just trying to figure out what the issue is. By the way, have you tried to submit via email? It will work on everything but the thread you have locked, and because it is you it might work there. However, you will need to subscribe to the things you want to respond to so you'll get the email notification.

What have I done today? Not much to the truck. In fact, nothing specifically to either of them. But, I did put a reed valve kit in a compressor that was given to me 'cause it didn't compress, and it'll be for my son. Plus, as I was looking around for air compressor things to go with it I found a portable air tank that should work nicely on Big Blue as the tank for on-board air. Then I played with gasoline and electricity to see how the pumps work, and am pleased to say that I didn't start a fire. In fact, I was able to determine which pumps I want to use. Last, I started playing with TurboCAD to draw up the fog lamp bezel. I'm sorry to say that I've forgotten all I thought I knew about 3D drawing. This is going to be a challenge. So, guys, don't hold your breath. We will get there in the end, but "the end" ain't soon. Bill - Your write up on Darth is looking good! Lots of good info in there.

Ok, I think I've come to a decision - I'll use the Delphi FE0127 in-tank pumps that Vernon sent, and from there I'll use the 1985.5/86 5.0L EFI plumbing. That means I'll use the reservoir/valve combo, the HP pump, and filter, just as Ford designed it. Turns out the Delphi catalog is way wrong on the FE0127 in-tank pumps. I have two of them NIB and one puts out 5 psi and the other closer to 7 psi - way off from the 36 psi their catalog shows. So, I'll use those as the in-tank pumps to drive the reservoir/switching valve. And they'll be on the sending units from LMC, with the 43-4084 shown on the right, below, with the little bracket for the pump just above the float for the much bigger high-pressure in-tank pump for the later trucks, like Huck. Note that in the picture above the sending unit for the later model pump is laying to the side. That's because I was investigating the possibility of swapping a Bullnose sending unit onto the Bricknose pump. And, as shown below, that appears to be possible. Both are retained by three tabs that are the same size and in the same location, as shown here: And, if you do that you could probably also swap the float arms as they are held in the same way, as shown here. But, I think that is too fiddly and would prefer to use the complete pump/sending unit instead of having to piece things together.

Why not officially? He's sure found parts for me. As for the bezel, I started a new thread on the idea of printing one, finding a switch, etc: http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/Fog-Light-Bezel-Switch-etc-td5111.html

I started a new thread on the topic of printing a fog light bezel, finding a switch, etc: http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/Fog-Light-Bezel-Switch-etc-td5111.html.

Guys - Many of us would like to have the factory fog light bezel, a workable switch (none are available new that we know of), and whatever else it takes in order to have "factory" lights on the front of our trucks. So, this thread is about trying to 3D print the bezel, find an acceptable switch, and lay out the necessary wiring and relay. Toward that I found the pictures that Brad Alexander, from FTE, provided me so I could draw up the bezel, and I've put them in this photo gallery. Hopefully with those pictures and additional measurements from those of you who have the bezel I can draw it up and then someone (Reamer?) can print one. I'll come back later with info on switch possibilities.

These pictures were provided by Brad Alexander (FTE member) in order that I could draw the bezel up in 3D:

Good point. No, he doesn't have the tools and equipment with which to do that, so would hire it done.

Maybe you should clarify what the problem is and what your plans are?

That would work. But, you are forgetting that I'm trying to future-proof things for my offspring. And it is unlikely they'll see the need to Loctite those bolts in. After all, they didn't have the chemistry class I had in high school or have the Mech Of Materials class I had in engineering school where we talked about the galvanic series. (Nor would I understand the tax laws they went to school to learn.) If I remember correctly, stainless is a long way down the chart from aluminum, so it wouldn't be good to use stainless bolts. Your stainless Helicoils would be perfect though as they'll bond nicely with the casing.

Ron - Don't miss the related discussion here: http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/NOS-radio-nameplate-XLS-expensive-td5037.html#a5067 And, was it you that sent me the measurements of the fog light bezel? I need to look those up and try my hand at drawing it up in 3D.

Bill - Perhaps I misunderstood, but I thought he just wanted a new wiring harness and didn't want to change to a MAF system. If that is true, then is there a harness that would work?

Jim - So, I'd better use stainless bolts for attaching mine? Jonathan - Thanks again for the tip on the boot. I ordered it from the link you sent for $14.95 and free shipping when Amazon has it for $43.94 inc shipping.

The others will know for sure, but I'm pretty sure that the ones that use a mass airflow (MAF) sensor also use a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. Yours will be an EEC-IV system and according to the new book I have it does use the MAP but not the MAF, which was added with the EEC-V. The years for that varied by the vehicle and its delivery point, but all light trucks (under 8600 lbs GVWR) went to that by 1996. Bill will be able to answer the question definitively, but I think you can use a harness that has the MAF by removing the extra wires and re-pinning to your ECU connector as the -IV has a smaller connector than the -V.

Jonathan - Good thought on the inner boot. No need to have Jim pull it, I'll just order it, so thanks for the link. Jim - I took the ones on my tranny out to the next size and re-tapped the case - 3/8" IIRC. But, I don't know the weight.

In that case I'll probably just use the reservoir/valve combo and be done with it. Lots fewer connections and I can get factory lines if I want. Speaking of lines, do you recommend the Dorman kit, or go with EFI hose and clamps?

I was going with the reservoir-style valve since you said the high-pressure pump needed the reservoir to ensure it doesn't run dry. But, if I put a screw-on filter 'twixt the LP pump and the valve then voila, there's a reservoir - right? So, if that works then all I need is a Bosch HP pump as I have a new 6-port valve and two new in-tank pumps. Sound like a reasonable plan? Another approach would be to see if I can put 80 - 85 senders on the '90-style in-tank pumps which need no external switching valve nor frame-mounted pump. But, if that fails on a trip then I'm probably out of luck getting replacement parts, where the way I'm going just replacement 1985/6 parts will work. Thoughts?

Jim - Feel free to post prices if you want. And, do you want to sell the inner boot by itself? I'll understand if you don't. I think my outer boot is fine, although I'll check, but I don't have an inner boot.

That's a good idea, Bill. And, it should protect the 6-port valve. But, do you have a suggestion on the filter to use? I keep finding diesel filters and not gasoline filters.

I agree, guys. Which is why I didn't bother to call Delphi today. My wife and I went to see Just Getting Started, which we'd give a 3 on a 5-point scale, went out to eat, visited someone in the hospital, went to Best Buy and Old Navy, and generally had a day out. Maybe tomorrow I can test the pumps and see what I have. But, I think I'd be a lot happier with 6 psi rather than 2 psi. Perhaps the valve will switch more reliably with a bit more pressure. Had another thought about the reservoir idea. What about using one of the screw-on fuel filters between the 6-port valve and the HP pump? That would provide probably as much reservoir as the reservoir/valve combo, and put a filter in ahead of the HP pump for its protection.