Gary Lewis

First, it apparently is a myth that there are no part numbers on our parts. I can look that number up and it is the part number. Second, beyond what the catalog calls something I can't tell what it really is. I don't an EVTM for an '89 so can't see how they wired it. But, from what you said about the wiring it looks as if it is wired much the same as ours - power to the light from the fuse block and the switch grounds it. And, looking at the switch all it can do is to ground the output. It takes two connections, minimum, for a switch, and the only way it can have two is to use the case ground. And that's what ours does. So, I don't understand the terminology difference.

Thanks, Pete. Since I have the intake, injectors, throttle body, intake plumbing, etc, all it would take, I think, to go MAF is the MAF , a harness, and the right computer. But, there's a lot of learning to do on my part in order to accomplish it, where I have a bolt-in/plug-in SD system. However, if it won't work correctly with the headers, cam, etc then it won't be satisfactory.

When does it get to go to work with you?

Thanks for the followup. And, glad it works for you.

Hope it fits. Let us know.

I have a bit on seat interchangeability here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/seat-interchangeability.html

Bill - I feel your pain! I had a large post typed in a lost it. Where do you stand working with Peter from Nabble? Anyway, wasn't the 460 available in MAF SEFI? It was used through '97 from what I've read, and everything in '96 had to be OBD-II. So why not use a harness from one of those? Jonathan - Janey and I've been to the North Rim once, many years ago, and to the South Rim twice. Most recently was late Aug a year ago when we rode the mules down and stayed at Phantom Ranch. And, it was a zoo up on top. Anyway, good suggestions. Thanks. What about an air compressor. I've thought about using a York/Tecumseh A/C compressor for one like Luke did in Big Blackie, as shown below. (You almost got to meet Luke and see Big Blackie in Sept, but he had to cancel at the last minute.)

That's exactly the shape Dad's build sheet is in. Don't think I have any extra of the grommets, but will look.

I don't think the earlier seats are a bolt-in for our trucks. I have heard that from 1980 to some place in the mid-90's the floor pans were the same, but have never seen anything about the earlier pans being the same.

I got an email from my son today that said "I'd like to do this trip", and it included a link to this: The Grand Adventure: The North Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is the invitation I've been looking for! So, I'm wanting to discuss what I need to do to Big Blue in order to get it ready - assuming that we go. Here's what I can think of off the top of my head: Fix the leaks: I need to pull the engine and replace the main seals, pan, intake gasket, and valve covers and gaskets. Exhaust System: The glass packs have to go if we are to drive it that far. EFI: I'm thinking that while the engine is out that I need to put the heads and EFI system off Huck on so that the elevation changes we would be experiencing won't be a problem. See questions below. Install the ZF5: It is ready, so when the engine is out put it in, which will make the trip out/back much more relaxed. 3G: Install the 3G I got from Jim, as well as the serpentine belt system. And, install the ammeter-turned-voltmeter that was destined for Dad's truck. In fact, I might install the 160a 3G that was destined for Dad's truck and build the other 3G for Dad's truck. After all, Big Blue needs more current that Dad's truck will. Hydroboost: And, while everything is out, why not install the better brake system So, what do you think? What am I missing? Bill - Tell me, again, what you've done to Darth to get MAF and SEFI. Are you running an EEC-IV or V? If V, what harness did you use? And, since I have all the stuff for SD bank-fire, is it worth it to go MAF & SEFI? And, will the SD work with the Edelbrock cam and slightly-higher compression I'd have? Jim - Remind me, did I get the EEC-IV computer out of the F450? That had a ZF, so would be a good one to use if I go that way. (Yes, I know I have it, but that's in the shop and I'm out of time to go look before church.)

Well, I found a crack in the E4OD's case today, as shown below. And, oddly enough, I think it has helped me make my mind up on where to have the tranny built. I believe I'll go with Charley at Aspen. I called him and he said the cracked case is only cosmetic. However, he remembered our discussion and said that if he was doing a truck like I am he wouldn't want to use that case. But, for $100 he has other cases. In addition, he said that my '90 case isn't compatible with the reusable gasket. But, he has later cases that are compatible with it, so he will use one of those. And, he has later pans that have a drain plug. My guess is that Steve, the teacher, doesn't have the spare cases. And I know he doesn't have a pan with a drain plug as he said so. Given that, I think I need to go with Charles. And, the plan is to take it down to him on Friday. He said that the best way to transport one is by plopping it on an old tire, so I've contacted the local tire shop and will pick one of those up tomorrow when I'm out to ship Darin/Oz's crossmember "down under". Then, all I have to do is to figure out how to get the tranny from the middle of the shop out to Big Blue in the driveway - with Huck sitting on the floor 'twixt the lift uprights. I may have to drop the cab back down and then pick the whole thing up so's I can roll the shop crane under it. Anyway, one step back and two forwards still gets you there eventually.

Not a problem, but a sign. This thing has been apart. I don't know, yet, if the engine was out or if the tranny was out. Or both. But one bolt in the bell housing was backed off 1/2", one bolt left out of the lifting eye, and several tabs are broken on the wiring harness.

Wasn't quite what I meant. Take a look at the picture again.

Yes, it does have the lifting eyes. But, what do you notice here?

Jonathan - Check Text Section 70.6 pages 3 and 6. The E0TZ 7E440-A is a 4wd light switch, and -B is a lockout switch. On the clocking, in my experience having it clocked backwards makes your shift pattern backwards. And while that's on an NP208, it should be the same on a BW1345. The arm certainly comes off on the 208 and can go on 180 degrees out. Been there, done that. And you can make that linkage adjustable by cutting it, welding a nut on each end, and placing a bolt or piece of all-thread in there with another nut for a jam nut. As shown below: And I'm sure the speedo will be much more accurate with the driveshafts in.

That's the stuff that Rick/Fonzie found for his truck. Rare.

That's what I was told. Also told me to let it cool, and it worked! Other wise I may have panicked! Just kind of unnerving to see it leak like that You can see the vent here, and it would certainly make a big mess. My plan is to use the stock 1990 F250HD cooler from Huck on Dad's truck, with the theory that it was sized for the work that truck was designed to do. And since I won't tow with Dad's truck and will, as Bill has suggested, keep the torque converter locked until something like 80% throttle, it should stay nice and cool. Agree?

Thanks, Pete. But, given what you've learned would you order their stuff again?

Grumpin - Glad that carb is working well for you. I'll be curious how the MPG changes, although "MPG" and "460" shouldn't be used in the same sentence. Dyn - I really hate it when I find others have butchered the wiring that way. The only way to fix it is as you've done - cut it out and start over. As for the tail light grounding, here's a snip from Page 49 of the 1981 EVTM: But, I don't know about the backup light switch. I haven't found that yet. And, glad wire colors are helping.

Well, from what I've just read the Trick Flow pan is not for a 4wd truck. 2wd only. But Dorman supposedly has a steel one for $35 - which is so much less than the $250 or so the others cost that I'm suspicious. Granted it is stamped steel vs cast aluminum, but I sure don't want it to leak. But now I'm torn. I have a price from Steve for $2200 but I'm pretty sure it is with the existing pan, so I'll have to add $250 or so for an aluminum pan - to ensure it doesn't leak. On the other hand, I have a range of from $1800 to $2600 from Charles, and he said he'll just put a pan on that has a drain plug - apparently from his stash. (And, by the way, apparently the 4R100 pans interchange, so maybe they had drain plugs.) So the prices are pretty much the same. Steve gives a 1 year warranty and Charles gives a 2 year warranty. But, I would think that 1 year would be enough as if it is going to fail from bad parts it should do so in the first year. And if it holds up a year it should be good to go. One, Steve, teaches transmission rebuilding and does this on the side and the other, Charles, does this every day as his business. Thoughts?

Jim - Thanks for saying that. You wouldn't believe how much grief I got last weekend because I'm not done with Dad's truck or haven't made as much progress as people expected. So having someone say that I've been busy is a big deal.

Pete - What brand of upholstery are you using?

I'm not sure they ever were truly weak. The transmissions were only used in trucks, motorhomes, etc and they were used behind big engines. But, there were a number of upgrades, and those were due to problems. So, hopefully when it is upgraded it will be stout.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. So:

That's not interfering. Not at all. So, thanks! I'll check with him on a pan, but whatever goes on will have a drain plug. If he doesn't have one that does, and if I decide to go with him, I'll order in a Trick Flow cast aluminum one. Anyway, made some progress today. As you can see, the tranny is out. And, that's a transmission! It measures 32" long, a full 6" longer than the ZF5. Glad I got the driveshafts that go with it. And the rear mount is 6" farther aft than for a ZF5, which is already 1" farther aft than for a C6. So, glad I also got the crossmember for that as part of the deal. And, THAT'S a torque converter!