Gary Lewis

Bill - Thanks! I just needed someone to translate as I'm not au fait with the internals of an automagic tranny. But, you also said in the email "Ask him if he has a later deep pan so you can have the reusable gasket. On the external stuff, look at the neutral safety/back up light switch, if it looks like the connector has been replaced, good, there is a TSB on using the updated switch due to water intrusion. If you can get it off easily, save the RWAL actuator, I think the residual pressure check valve for the rear brakes is in it and I may need it to solve a minor brake issue on Darth, but then if you install the later MC on yours, it may be needed there." So, first, what is a RWAL actuator? Second, do only the later pans have the reusable gaskets? And, do they have a drain plug? As for the NSS/backup light switch and connector, here's what I have. Is it the updated one?

Pulley is "in the mail". Email sent on the shipping cost. Done and dusted, as the Brit's would say.

Pete - Well said. Too many people want large and/or short runners, but they will kill torque at low RPM. A good example of that is the Cleveland engine, which was offered with both "2V" and "4V" heads and matching intake manifolds. The 2V's had reasonably-sized ports and the 4V's had huge ports. Engines with the 2V heads & manifolds had reasonable low-RPM torque, but engines with the 4V heads had little torque below 3000 RPM. However, from 3000 on up they rev'd like banshees. Jim - Probably both as Brandon is fighting a problem on his Bronco that may be a mismatch of heads and intake. So, I'm sure he would appreciate info on both spring pressures as well as the port volume.

This probably isn't your problem now that you have gotten the brakes to release, but there's an adjustment on the pushrod between the booster and the master. If you make that too long the brakes can't fully release. Scott, the welder guy, and I found that out the hard way recently. He came over with his '78 with brake prob's. After bleeding and adjusting the rears we still had no pedal, so adjusted that rod. It made all the difference in the world, but the brakes wouldn't release fully. Backing the screw off slightly fixed it.

Good point I'll have a 75mm throttle body, and that would go to a single MAF Ok, a picture would help.

Jonathan - Those are very good pics. Thanks! So, there are indeed three different cables: 1980 - 82; 1983; & 1984 - 86. I'm going to guess that they had some problems with the 1983 cable or it wouldn't have been replaced so quickly.

One "fix" is to go with the 87+ cowl that has the holes instead of slots. That's what Big Blue has on him. But I don't really like the look, so will go back to the 1980 - 86 cowl with a plastic mesh glued to it. My paint/body man says he knows just the stuff to use, but I haven't gotten a name for it yet. Will do if you need it.

Congrat's! With the light out you know that both sides of the system are working - front/back.

Time for an update here. On Thanksgiving I got to spend some time with my brother and his older son, both of whom like the plan to EFI Dad's truck. And that appears to be especially true of his son, who is an excellent mechanic. He's finding it hard to find anyone that can work on carbs, and agrees that it is only going to get harder as time goes on. So, he fully supports my plan to make it effectively a 1996 F150 w/a 5.0L and E4OD. As for the intakes, Tim says they are on their way to his shop, and he will take pics soon. Plus, he has ordered the spacers and will mock it up and take pictures of that as well. And, I've been doing some thinking, searching, and looking to see how I want to route the intake plumbing. I looked yesterday at how Ford ran it for the EFI'd 5.0's in the 90's, and while I could probably do that, I'm not impressed with the size of the cold-air inlet. So I then looked at the two 460 air cleaner boxes I have and discovered that the tops can be put on backwards, which means the inlet could be plumbed to the opening in the radiator support. But, in both the 5.0L and the 460's Ford used a double throttle body and two tubes going to the air box. However, the Trick Flow manifold uses a single throttle body, so if I'm to a two-tube box I'll have to find a Y. But, I've read that Ford used them on several of the trucks, so that shouldn't be too hard. Thoughts?

I heard from Brandon's friend/neighbor Steve today. But I don't fully understand his response, so could use some help. I sent him this list of Baumann's suggested upgrades saying I wanted to make sure they are included: Improved (thicker) converter clutch piston (circa 1994), prevents the formation of cracks which relieve fluid pressure from the apply side of the clutch, causing it to slip and even bluing the outside surface of the torque converter in extreme cases. Ensure that your new converter contains an updated OEM or "LuK" brand heavy-duty clutch. This can be difficult, as many torque converter suppliers and remanufacturers may not use this new style of clutch. Higher displacement front pump (for 1995) provides more fluid capacity for faster engagement of reverse and greater lube flow. New (for 1994) 4-pinion overdrive planet and input shaft assemblies replace older 3 and 4 pinion units which tend to develop cracks in the carrier under heavy loads. Center support update kit (for units built from 1989 through part of 1994) replaces wear-prone bushing with a ball bearing and contains a new overdrive stub shaft. Stronger overdrive clutch cylinder snap ring which will not dislodge. Revised sun gear and rear case bushings (circa 1992 model year) provide longer wear life and better lubrication. 4 pinion planet carriers (first used in 1992 model year) New forward clutch friction plates with hardened internal splines cure "chatter" and "no-drive" conditions in E4OD and some later C-6 transmissions. And I got the following response: So, did he say all of the things are included?

That's what I hear, Jim.

After doing a bit of machine work this morning I set a goal of getting the cab off The Huck. Score! Makes access to the engine and tranny a bit easier: Maybe tomorrow I can get the tranny out. Shouldn't be too hard - one of the bolts is already backed out 1/2".

And what is parked behind your garage? And I am not talking about the boat, Chevy P/U or lawn mower! Oops, found out. A 1969 Super Bee, that was originally in F3 green with the Ramcharger fresh air intake on the 383 Magnum.

Thanks, David. I'm not sure they think they need it at this point since they found a very heavy hose that they were able to bend into shape. Said they didn't think it would collapse if you drove over it. Anyway, if they need it now they'll know. p.s. These are Janey's cousins. A couple of kids - 3 months younger than I am, whatever that is.

Dennis/Whisler - Got the email. No prob. I plan to send it tomorrow, and may take Darin/Oz's crossmember at the same time. David - You and I know that the second one is French roast, and that gets just about everything going. Now back to gutting The Huck, more of which later - after a badly-needed shower.

It is the thought that counts, Jim. You gave it to me, so it is the least I could do. Note that I actually enlarged the recess at its base. Apparently the folks doing the CNC work on these at the factory were in a hurry and pushed the limits of their boring bar, and it flexed when they got to the bottom. I took off very small amounts since I was only taking off .067" and didn't have any flex. So, the recess is now a bit truer.

Ford and every other manufacturer *wants* you to use A/C more often. If you use it more often, the A/C system is less likely to leak and give you less problems. The old "use it or lose it" expression applies here. That is why the A/C mode is never at the end of the climate control selections on the control panels. If you notice, it is always at the beginning - you have to go past it in order to get to heat. Apparently there were engineers that didn't understand that. Otherwise, why would there be so many applications for valves to turn off the water to the heater core? You can go back through this thread and see the many that others have posted. Anyway, I've already made the mod and plan to put it on Dad's truck when the time comes - and enjoy nice cool air when in Vent.

I think you just answered your own question, Chief! If the air temperature is too warm on VENT because of the hot coolant in the heater core, why not turn on the A/C? Doesn't that qualify as a need to run it? Nope. I don't like to run the A/C when it isn't needed. And, when the outside temps are in the 60's it should not be needed. But, because Ford didn't spend the money to put a valve on our trucks, like they did other vehicles, then we have to turn the A/C on when it isn't needed. I'm just fixing what Ford was too cheap to do right in the first place.

Ok, let's make sure this thing is what you want. As shown below, my math says originally the bottom of the recess to the back of the lip was .754". And 11/16" = .6875", so the amount to take off is .0665". Right? I wound up at .684", but if that's too short I can send you the shavings so you can glue them back on. Anyway, if this is what you want just click on my name and send me an email with your address. I'll get it out tomorrow. If not, what changes do you need? Oh, and here's a shot while I was machining it.

It is easily done, and it *does* effectively cool the air in the MAX A/C mode. Much cooler than without the valve. Do you not have air conditioning in Dad's truck? If you don't, I see why you have an issue. But if you do have A/C, I'm not seeing it? If the air coming from the VENT is too warm, turn on the A/C. Isn't that the purpose? If it is still too warm, use MAX/AC. If it gets too cold, all you have to do is move the temperature control to the "warmer" side enough to suit your needs. I suppose that is why Ford didn't do what you are proposing. That, and one of the biggest reasons the A/C system develops leaks is because the A/C usually isn't used enough. Yup, I have A/C. But, when it is in the 60's outside I don't see the need to run it. However, with coolant to the heater core the air temp is way too warm on Vent. As for needing warm air then, just move the lever to Heat.

Yes, I included the lip in my measurement. But, let's start over. With the pulley front-up on the table, I measure 3/4" (.754" actually) from the rear of the recess to the back of the lip. And you want it to be a max of 11/16"?

Chris - I agree. Which is why I've not said anything. As long as the comments aren't hateful or mean-spirited I'll let them continue.

I used this one on Lucille as well. It works great! That's easily done, but doesn't cool the incoming air in Vent, and that's my biggest issue. So many days when I want to drive with the windows down and air coming in via Vent, but right now the air is quite warm.

You were right, the recess is 27/32" deep. I'm going out to the shop in a bit and will chuck the pulley up and see 'bout making it deep enough that the total shaft engagement is 11/16". I'm moving slowly this morning. Think the celebratory eating caught up with me. Or the late bed time, which was caused by the nap yesterday afternoon, might have been part of the problem. In any event, I'm on my second cup of Starbucks and enjoying the slow morning.

Yes, absolutely run brakes on both axles. My boat trailer came with hydraulic surge brakes on the front axle. But, I wanted the maximum braking I could get so put electric brakes on both axles. They came as bolt-on hubs with new bearings, brakes, drums, etc. Easy fix.