Gary Lewis

That is a beautiful truck. Not sure about $15K, but then you couldn't re-create it for that. That would be an excellent truck to buy and drive. Even the dash cover is uncracked, so it must have been stored inside.

Taden - Thanks for posting here rather than via email. I'll get this started and others will chime in. Lots of things can go wrong with the fuel gauge system. Here are some, but you can see the wiring here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/fuel-tank-selector--gauges.html. Fuse: The gauges actually aren't on a fuse. They are powered by the same circuit that runs the windshield wiper and washer, so if they work the gauges should have power. ICVR: The fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge, and coolant temp gauges are all run by the Instrument Cluster Voltage regulator. It can go bad, but if it does then all three of those gauges quit. Are the others working? Sending Unit: The sending units that go in the gas tanks are notorious for failing. Sometimes the float leaks and sinks. Sometimes the resistor goes bad. But they fail frequently. Wire: The wire that runs to the sending unit may be bad. You didn't say which tank it is, but it could be a dark blue/yellow, yellow/light blue, or yellow/white wire. Check it out for chafing because if it shorts to the frame the gauge will read full at all times. Or if it is broken then the gauge will read empty at all times.

Your sister is 10 years younger than you?

Thanks for the measurements, Ron. I'll check them out.

That explains a lot. Thanks for clearing that up. And, good luck.

Here's a little view of the one off Dad's truck. It'll be replaced with a more modern unit when the time comes, so it is available. And, while the red lines show where an idler could go, one fits nicely on the bolt just to the right of the red circle. That gives more purchase for the alternator than even the factory setup.

Yep, the cruise was great! As to trails not being technical enough to cause a problem, they can be a lot more technical than you might think and still not be an insurmountable problem. This is a picture of my old CJ5 on a trail in Colorado called Spring Creek Trail. I drove my '85 up it as well (but don't have pictures of that). And that was with stock size tires, no lift, open diffs and no winch. It was an adventure! But we did make it. I don't see any overlanding in my future (we just bought a 28' motorhome a year ago), so I like the smaller size of the early Bronco. But you can do an awful lot with an F-250. (I guess I don't know how to post pictures here directly, but I think this link works to get the picture) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/640x480/80-picture_php_pictureid_125617_b47ba984adbdc12a637d2a7b71e198293fa8a20f.jpg Nabble doesn't like that pic's URL from FTE, so I down loaded it, hit Insert Image, then Choose File and picked it, then Insert Image and there it is. Yes, that's technical. But the '85 made it with open diff's. Here's a link to a trip several took to Utah, and this is the kind of country we are wanting to tackle. Here's the toughest spot they got into, and they all made it - with open diff's. So, I'm thinking that Big Blue's Trutrac diff's will help a lot in conditions like that. However, one thing that has me wondering is the stiffness of the rear springs. Maybe by the time we get the truck loaded there will be some give in the springs, but there sure isn't much now. I'm wondering about removing a leaf or two and going with air bags since we will have on-board air.

I like those wheels. As for the pics, open them on a PC and then save them. Most PC software will recognize the camera orientation and when you save the pic will change it to a normal view.

I think I'd swap the carbs if you know the other one is good. Can't hurt.

Mine is the single cylinder, and should be the 10 ci version, not the 6 or 8, as the 10 is supposedly what Ford used in these trucks. It is said to be extremely capable. As for the tank, I had the perfect one. A friend donated a compressor that would no longer pump up pressure. But, a little research showed that the likely cause was broken reed valves. So, for $15 I fixed it and will be taking it to my son. However, I have a portable air tank that I never use and it is plenty big enough. And I've been eyeing that exact spot on the right side. As you say, a pressure switch to control it, and a switch in the cab to enable it. As for the bearing on the clutch freezing and causing problems, I'm not changing the alternator's position at all, so I'll carry the original alternator belt and it'll fit over just the alternator if needed. Problem solved.

Looking good! That's going to be one clean and classy truck.

So if I under stand it right there would be 3 holes in the dash. 1 for the switch held on with the ring and 2 for the bezel. Learning all the time. Dave ---- Pete - It will be interesting to see what you come up with. What software are you using? Jim - it is Kasse FLF. And, I never said I do things the easy way. However, what I've been told is that scanning doesn't give a good of results as from a drawing. Dave - No. There are three parts involved. The fog lamp bezel fastens to the instrument bezel with two studs that pass through holes in the instrument bezel. And, the plan is to use speed nuts on the plastic studs to hold it on, as Pete suggested. But the switch fastens to the dash by passing through a D-shaped hole and being held by a nut on the barrel of the switch. Then the arm of the switch passes through a slot in the instrument bezel and a slot in the fog lamp bezel. (I think I made that complicated. )

Bob - Welcome back! Hope the cruise was wonderful, and good plan to take your wife on a great vacation. Yes, I agree that I'll need to air-down, and had wondered how far down I would need to or could go. But, there's always the airing back up. Assuming your Viair system is the 10007, which is their constant-duty one, the CFM @ 30 PSI is about 1.5. But the York is between 6 and 8 at even higher pressure, so would cut the time by a factor of 4 or more. So, I'm interested in the York, or Tecumseh. In fact, I have been interested in it for quite some time since Luke did it. And, with what I found the other day I think it will be easy to make a bracket for the 460's with serpentine belt systems. And, since I have a compressor and a portable air tank it should be a fairly inexpensive project. About all I need is a new clutch with a serpentine pulley, some hose, and an oil trap. As for the mobility of the long-bed F250, everything I'm reading says that starting out with a Bronco, like I wanted to do, isn't the way to go. Yes, they are certainly more nimble. But, their GVWR doesn't allow loading them up like most people do. In fact, what I've read says most people have their vehicles overloaded before they add passengers and fuel. Don't think that'll be a problem on Big Blue. And, apparently the roads or trails we want to take aren't technical enough to cause a problem. I think we have a winner!

But you didn't lose your post? Bizarre! I'm at a loss. I reported the other, but don't have a resolution for that. Now we have a new issue? Ok, keep me posted on how many times this happens.

Here's another pass, although I've left out the slot since there is some confusion on my part with it. The bezels on the left and right are my new drawing with the dimensions Jonathan gave me, including the bead width of 1/16", although that may be slightly too wide. And, I've tightened the radius on the corners and I think they are correct now. The left one has the lettering at 1/8" tall and stretched to fit Jonathan's dimensions. Note that I tried bold, but it didn't work well at all, although I have a shot of it below if you want to see it. And the drawing on the right is with the letters 5/32" high and again stretched to fit Jonathan's dimensions. Personally, I think the letters on the right look closer. Anyway, what do you think? And, here's the bold one:

Thanks! Two very good subjects. However, if you've ever tried to take a pic of a black dog you'll know that getting such a good pic isn't easy. So, Photoshop Express on the iPhone came to the rescue. Just lighten the shadows, which happened to be the dog, and leave the mid-tones and highlights alone.

Houston (Jonathan), we have a problem. Originally the slot was to be 19/64" wide. But, with your latest measurements it should be 23/46" wide. I get to the latter by: Width of bezel = 1 41/64" less width of bead = 8/64" (2 x 1/16" = 1/8" = 8/64") less left bead to slot = 8/64" (1/8" = 8/64") less right bead to slot = 1 2/64" (1 1/32" = 1 2/64") What's left for slot = 23/64" So, please re-measure the slot positioning as the slot on the first one I drew looked pretty good.

First, as this is your first post, welcome to the Bullnose Forum. Glad you are here. As for your question, I don't know of anyone who's installed extra fans in addition to the engine-powered fan as the latter should be adequate. However, there's a problem with adding fans - you probably don't have enough electrical power to them. Your truck will have come with a 60 amp 1st generation alternator, but that 60 amps is when the engine is spinning pretty rapidly. However, you are saying the problem is at idle, and that alternator won't support those fans at idle - if at any speed. I think the problem is probably a lack of a shroud on the fan. Many of the trucks with a 300 six didn't come with the shroud, and that makes a huge difference in cooling. Another possible problem could be a plugged-up radiator. So, I would suggest you find a shroud and install it - assuming you don't have one. You can see an illustration of a shroud, as well as the part numbers, on this site here: Cooling Systems/Shroud Part #'s. But, I'm not suggesting that you buy a new one, as most salvages with these trucks in them should have one. However, that begs the question of where you are. Please tell us more about yourself as one of us may be near you. And, please create a signature that tells about your truck so we don't have to ask in future. Finally, this thread really ought to be in the normal part of the forum, and I'd like to move it there with your permission. This New Members section is really to introduce yourself rather than troubleshoot your truck. And one of the reasons for that is few people actually watch this section so you won't get much help.

I wonder if there were differences in the instrument bezels. I may get a chance to look mine over tomorrow to see.

Where on the instrument bezel does it go? Is the bezel made just for the fog lights or can the holes be drilled to fit the fog light switch bezel? Anyone have a picture of one installed? Dave ---- Jonathan - Good job! Thanks! I'm going to re-draw the whole thing in a day or two using those measurements, and will be able to get it really close to "right" this time. The only thing we won't have will be the studs on the back, but when Ron/Reamer gets his maybe those are measurements he can get for us since yours is installed and, therefore, hard to measure. And, adding the studs to the otherwise-completed bezel will be easy. As for the color of the lettering, I'll make it white this time. Dave - Here's Jonathan's pic, and the bead to the left surrounds the headlight/wiper switches. So the fog lamp bezel sits between there and the steering column. And, you can drill any instrument bezel to accept the fog lamp bezel. I have a factory instrument bezel with the holes, so can measure it at some point when we get that far and detail out exactly where the holes should go and how large they should be.

Some old man I know.

I actually thought about doing that before I drained it this time, but he I'm a little chicken to do it right before a long trip after what happened to David. I didn't want to break a bunch of crap loose and clog the screen. If it keeps it up I might do it when I get back and can drive it around close to home. On the heater, pull the blower motor and look in there. That's where lots of stuff goes, and the mice can get to it if the blend door is open/broken. Plus, it is easy to get to in order to clean out. As for the oil, I agree about not doing the clean-out on a long trip. But 45 psi at idle is a lot. So, it looks like the engine is in good shape, although you don't know about how dirty things are. Best to play it safe. And I like the wheels and tires. Big Blue's are wide enough that they can't really sit in like yours w/o rubbing on many turns, but yours fit nicely. And those E's should be good for where you are going.

Yes, these trucks are like onions. We just keep peeling and crying. But, I like onion rings. As for the puppy, it is a Whoodle, which is a Wheaton Terrier/Poodle mix. Here's my wife, Janey, holding it as we picked it up:

Must be the Dog Days of Winter. We are headed to MO to pick up a new puppy for our daughter in Nicaragua. She says the puppy is for the grandtwins, but we can tell it is really for her and they'll get to play with it. However, we get to keep it a week before it heads south with the other grandparents. So, life is going to change here for a bit.

But SPOUT is still used to set initial timing and is, therefore, needed - right? HO2S 21 is not needed, and would be a place for me to put my wideband sensor? EGR: Huck's tube looks good, but I don't want to run EGR, so I can disable it. Sonic disables it or does what? Canister Purge: What is VMV? You are speaking a language that is not yet understood by me. A/C Clutch: Ok, I'll just continue with the current system. I could feed the output of the pressure switch to the ECU though, and even though I don't use the ECU's output to control the clutch, it should still up the idle speed. Data Link: Yes, I understand it wasn't there until '96, but all of this assumes that either the unicorn is available in CA or I use another harness to go MAF. If I go SD then there's a whole 'nother list. As for wiring info, I thought you sent me a spreadsheet or Word doc that had the pinouts for either SD (60 pins) or MAF (104 pins). I know that Ray did and found his, but can't find yours. Am I dreaming?