Gary Lewis

I agree, guys. Which is why I didn't bother to call Delphi today. My wife and I went to see Just Getting Started, which we'd give a 3 on a 5-point scale, went out to eat, visited someone in the hospital, went to Best Buy and Old Navy, and generally had a day out. Maybe tomorrow I can test the pumps and see what I have. But, I think I'd be a lot happier with 6 psi rather than 2 psi. Perhaps the valve will switch more reliably with a bit more pressure. Had another thought about the reservoir idea. What about using one of the screw-on fuel filters between the 6-port valve and the HP pump? That would provide probably as much reservoir as the reservoir/valve combo, and put a filter in ahead of the HP pump for its protection.

Not everybody sees/reads these introduction threads, so you will probably want to start a new thread/topic on fixing up your truck in the main section in order to get a larger following and more helpers. As for the transmission, the C6 is one of my least-favorite units if you want MPG. It is robust, but w/o an overdrive or lock-up torque converter it is a gas hog. There are only two autos that offer those features and bolt to that engine. One is the ED4OD or its later brother 4R100, and those take an expensive electronic controller to function. But the AOD will bolt up and it does lock up and has an overdrive. However, it isn't the stoutest of transmissions, so wouldn't be a good choice if you are towing heavy things. But, if you aren't going to drive the truck a lot of miles then the cost of changing transmissions is probably not worth it to get the gas savings.

As said about the fog lamp bezel, I haven't read good things about scanning things to then 3D print. Where I went to learn about this they have a series of little figurines that have been printed, scanned, printed from the scan, scanned, printed from the scan, ...... And each successive generation is noticeably degraded. I think we'll be better off taking accurate measurements and drawing it up in 3D. But, even then the printed part will need some cleaning up - assuming the resolution of 3D printing hasn't been improved significantly in the last 3 years or so. Apparently the printed part has a texture that needs to be smoothed, and especially the parts that will be shiny. As for the measurements, I'll need the normal ones like overall length, height, width. But also the radius of the rounded corners, the crossing points for the straight lines, etc. However, it shouldn't be too hard.

When you get back lets do closeup shots of the tank selector switches (I should have an early and a late one) and the fog light switch, with rulers in the shots for reference. As for scanning, I suppose that is possible while on the instrument bezel, but that would complicate things. However, from what little I've read it seems that scanning is somewhat imprecise. So, what I really need to do is to dig out the measurements I've been given by others and finally draw up the bezel in 3D. Then maybe Ron can walk me through having it printed and we'll see if it is acceptable. The font for the lettering may not be exact, although I'll try to figure out what Ford used. But unless it is compared to an original it, hopefully, will be acceptable.

Jonathan - The app I have, Speed, uses satellite signals for determining speed, and doesn't need a cell signal. I just lay it on the dash, under the windshield and it works. Used it on Lake Powell w/o cell service and it worked fine. Hope you get the tires mounted today.

Welcome, John! That was a good-looking truck, and I'll bet you can get it back in shape - with another truck and a bit of help. What are your intentions for the engine? Transmission? Will it remain 2wd? Again, welcome!

Jim - I wondered where you'd gotten off to. Ok, so the metal tank pumps are the ones I want to look at. Thanks. Didn't get Delphi called yesterday, but maybe today. However, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be easier to rig up a test.

I think you've just figured out their cunning plan to get more money w/o making it intuitively obvious to the casual observer.

I'd like to see some good pics of that switch as I want to find one like it. I had wondered if a tank switch would work, so yesterday I pulled the NOS one I have out and held it next to the dash I have in the attic. I think I could make it work, but it would be just that - work. The mounting bracket on the switch isn't close to being right and some fabrication would be necessary. However, the hole in the dash is D-shaped, so there might be a switch out there that I could make work. Preferably it would have the flat arm/lever on it so a knob like is used on the fan and tank switches would go on.

Thanks, Bill. I think you may be right about the Delphi website being wrong. Vernon bought those pumps for Big Blue, and somewhere someone said they are the right ones. So, they can't have that much pressure. I may call Delphi and see. If they can't help I may just block the return on Big Blue so the hot-fuel handling orifice doesn't bleed off pressure and turn the regulator up to see what I can get with the current in-tank pump. Thanks again!

Bill - Thanks. That location should work fine since I should be able to route the lines you see to the front instead of the rear. However, I think I may have an answer to my pump question: Here's the summarized info from Delphi's catalog: High-pressure pump for 1986 5.0L w/EFI: FD0029, which flows 28 gph, works at 44 psi, and has a relief at 90 psi 1986 5.0L EFI in-tank pump: FE0484, which flows 30 gph, works at 2 psi, and has a 6 psi relief 1985 460 carb in-tank pump: FE0127, which flows 24 gph, works at 36 psi, and has a 65 psi relief I have two brand new FE0127's, and that would seem to be a no-go. However, here's the 1987 F250 460 page from Dephi, and it shows the FE0127 used for the aft-axle plastic tank and the FE0484 used for the aft-axle steel tank. HELP!

You are saying that the lineup of "stuff" on the frame may bring the filter so far to the front that the lines can't go up the back of the tranny like on Huck, as shown below. Right? If so, perhaps I can start the lineup further to the rear, meaning run the lines from the front tank rearward rather than forward. I'll have to look to see what's on the inside of Big Blue's frame now, but not much other than wiring that I remember. And, so far no luck on the pump part number for the in-tank pumps. Ford didn't sell them other than as part of the whole sending unit assembly, so no part number to cross-reference. LMC doesn't tell, but I'm checking other sources. Perhaps Delphi?

Dave - Sorry for the slow reply. But, you may help us solve this problem if you can replicate the problem. First, what phone are you using, what OS, and what browser? Next, have you tried another browser? With that info, and the fact that it is an every time thing, I'll go to Nabble and see if they can help.

As David and I've discussed, this harness won't work well for me. The reason being that I don't have the original switch, which isn't available, so can't use the connector. And, I'm going with a later power distribution box, so won't be running the wire to the original spot for the source. But, if anyone has the original switch and wants to wire up fog lights this would be an easy way to go.

That's the problem - I don't know what it should be, so wouldn't know if it is correct or not. But, isn't the real question whether those pumps will trigger the valve to switch? They supply enough fuel to run the engine, even at full chat. And the high-pressure pump will circulate fuel to the regulator and back to the reservoir, so if the pumps provide enough pressure to switch the valve wouldn't that be all that is needed? I'll continue to look for the right in-tank pumps for an EFI setup, but so far all I've found is the whole sending unit/pump combo. And since I have both new sending units and new pumps for the carb'd version I'd like to minimize cost and use them if they'll work.

Pretty - in several ways. Pretty to look at, and a pretty penny! But, it would look good on that radio bezel.

Let me see if I understand - I shouldn't use the 6-port valve as there's no reservoir to keep the high-pressure pump supplied. Right? Said another way, just to check we are on the same page, the in-tank pumps that I have are fine, but I need a reservoir to supply fuel in all conditions to the high-pressure pump and the 6-port valve doesn't do that. So, if I run the pumps I have and Reservoir/Tank Selector Valve F1TZ 9B263-B I should be good? That way I'm using what Ford designed, although I'm not sure what in-tank pump they used as I can't find a part number on the pump by itself, just the pump/sending unit combo. So, I'd like to use the sending units and pumps I have, which are right for a carb'd 460.

I'll have the whole cross member in place before the cab comes back down on Dad's truck. I will say that having the cab off when doing the E4OD swap looks to be the best way to do it. One reason is that the cross section of the frame on the Bullnose F150 is different at that point than the Bricknose 250's frame. So, it will be a bit of trial-fitting to get it to go where I think it should and I may have to make some mod's on the piece that attaches on the left side. Speaking of that, I might ought to explain to others that the E4OD cross member sits on the bottom lip of the frame on the left side and has a brace that then attaches to the bottom side of the top lip - just like the C6 and other cross members do. But, on the right side the cross member goes under the frame and turns up, with three bolts then going through the upturned lip of the cross member and then the side of the frame from the outside. So, it isn't a bolt-in as there aren't any holes for it on the Bullnose frame, and I'll have to determine where they should be and then drill them - which will be far easier with the cab off. (But you already know that, Bill.) Now, I'll admit that when I first read your post I did a flash-back to yesterday when I dropped the cab back down on Huck's frame - and discovered that either the frame or the cab had moved considerably while they were separated. My first thought was how in the world I was going to move them, but then I just picked up one side of the cab and slide it around.

Oh no! That's winding a 460 a bit. Glad the governor kicked in?

Ok, I think we are on the same page. But, let me throw in two wrinkles: I have three brand new in-tank pumps from Vernon. Why not use those instead of some EFI-specific ones, and put them on the new sending units I also have? I also have a brand new 6-port selector valve from Vernon, the one those pumps are designed to switch. Why not use it instead of the EFI-specific one?

ADHD? I prefer to say that I'm advancing in parallel on several fronts. Seriously though, if I'm learning EFI then why not do it on Big Blue as well as Dad's truck? And, I'd rather use Big Blue as the guinea pig than Dad's, especially since it'll be the easier one to do as it will be close to a bolt-on. And, what I learn on Big Blue will be directly applicable to Dad's truck. For instance, there is the issue of the fuel system that needs to be sorted. And, it is complicated for a couple of reasons. First, the 400's & 460's didn't have EFI, so there are no bolt-on parts to buy. Second, by the time the EFI'd 460's did come along in the Bricknose era the fuel gauge senders had changed to a reversed and different resistance range - totally incompatible with Bullnose gauges. But, fortunately, Ford did offer the 302 w/EFI in '85 & 86, and they used the same high-pressure fuel pump as the 1987 and later 460's with EFI - as shown below. That being the case, it would seem that the most straight-forward solution would be to use the 302's fuel system, which is: In-tank pumps mounted on the correct 1980 - 86 sending unit so the fuel gauge works Reservoir/Tank Selector Valve F1TZ 9B263-B (replaced E6TZ 9B263-C a/o 9/91) Frame-mounted high-pressure pump E7TZ 9C407-B So, what do y'all think? Why won't this approach work for both a 400 and a 460? (Parallel efforts. )

I'm thinking the 1990+ system is the way to go because I think it would mesh best with the existing plumbing to the fuel rails. But, maybe not since the 1985.5 - '89 system has an output and a return, so should connect right up to what I have. So, forgetting the gauges, which system would you prefer? As for the gauges, I don't think that will be a problem as I think I can put the earlier sender on the later pump, or vice versa. I hope.

I have the high-pressure pump from Huck, which is a '90, so could go that way. But, apparently Huck was a single-tank truck as there's no switching arrangement in the lines. And my catalog stops at 1989, so I don't know what parts were used on the later trucks. But, I know that the 1985.5+ systems were problematic, so wanted to consider the later stuff. What do you have to switch tanks?

Fuel System: In addition to installing the 38 gallon tank that I already have, I'll need to put a pump and sending unit in it. My plan is to make the fuel system essentially a 1996 with the Fuel Delivery Modules.

Bill - Does Darth have dual fuel tanks? How do you have the fuel system set up? What pumps, reservoirs, switching valves, etc? The parts catalog shows a complex arrangement of reservoir, pump, filter, etc on the frame. What do you have and what would you recommend?