Gary Lewis

Yes, Jim, we need that emoji. Or, the dope-slap. Bill - I don't know how it held water.

I agree with your numbers. Don't know about Dorman vs Spectra.

That's basically what I've run into, having to piece things together to get the gaskets I want.

Yes! As Jonathan says, "Please share!"

Alfie - First, a discussion of Ford part numbers. The number you see on the illustrations is the base part number. That number is used for that part on essentially every Ford vehicle ever made. But to make it specific to your vehicle you need a prefix and a suffix. The prefix will be something like E0TZ, and the "E" means it was first used in the 80's while the "0" means it was the first year of the 80's, so 1980. The "T" means Truck, and I think the "Z" means replacement part. Then there's the suffix, which appears to start with "A" and goes from there. So, a "3530", which is a Shroud (Steering Column) for your truck would be an E0TZ 3530-C for a fixed steering wheel and E0TZ 3530-B for a tilt wheel. And that's shown on my page Interior/Steering Columns - although I just added the info for the shroud. I don't think it is 3530 that you need. Note that it doesn't vary for manual or automatic transmissions. And I'm researching what it actually is. Hope to be back soon.....

Did you break the fitting? Where did it break - sheared off leaving the threads in the manifold? My plan was to cut the tube just far enough out of the fitting that I can get a deep socket on the fitting. Then do my best with penetrating oil and heat, alternating, and then the big impact. If it won't come out then crimp and braze the end of the tube. But, if there's a probability of breaking it so that part of it is in the manifold maybe I should go directly to Plan B and crimp it?

Instead of "there's and app for that" it is "there's a page for that": Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part #'s/Fuel Tanks.

Replace the tanks. I spent a lot of time and money trying to clean the tank on that '82 white Explorer I had, and never did really get it clean. My brother, his son, and I put a chain in it and about 2 gallons of gas and sloshed it for 5 minutes. Then we dumped that and did it again - at least five times. And each time the gas came out yukky. We finally gave up and I put gas in and tried to use it. The accelerator discharge nozzles on the 2150 were the things to plug, even with two filters in series. Looking back on it I'd have been time and money ahead to have replaced the tank.

When he was telling me how he got the fuel door I was crying a little and yes I did tell him they are hard to find and should not have cut it up. No not ship it as I don't need either fender (at this time). I only needed a fuel door and area to graft onto the rear part of my fender for the rear tank I added and was going to use 1 of the 2 from the parts truck. He said the only thing he saw wrong with the truck was it had no dash and the wood for the bed was rotten but the rest of the bed was in good shape. He did say the gate & fuel door was already boxed up and sitting in the back of his truck just needed my address. I told him no rush but he wants it out of his truck so he can get more parts! I will get pictures when it gets here. Dave ---- Actually it was more "what I did to the shop" as I spent most of another day cleaning and organizing the plethora of parts y'all have been kind enough to send me. Today was dedicated to getting the serpentine brackets, tensioners, pulleys, and fasteners clean. And now they are cozy in a large Home Depot tote like Jim introduced to me. Part of the brackets came from Huck so that took a bit of disassembly. Along the way I couldn't help "playing" a bit, including checking to see why Huck's AC/PS bracket broke. And, Bill called that right - no backing plate on the water pump. And, since I was already pulling things off of Huck's engine I decided to pull more weight off as I'll be moving it for storage. The first thing to come off were the exhaust manifolds. I held my breath and hit the bolts with the impact, and off they came. But, when I got to the driver's side the EGR plumbing refused to come off of the EGR valve on the top or the exhaust manifold on the bottom. Anyone know what size the threads are going into the manifold? And, what are the odds I can get that fitting out with penetrating oil and heat?

Here's what a Magna-Pure looks like inside: And here's the business parts. The ring is a mild magnet and the screen will capture big stuff. And, if it gets too clogged the pressure will overcome the spring and the flow will bypass the filter.

I was wondering the same thing. Yup, they did it:

Ok, it looks like Bill wins the prize. And, having test-fit the brackets on Huck's engine I'm now quite comfortable that the problem is not an un-supported power steering pump but a "mechanic" that should be un-supported. Here's Huck's original C2 bracket installed - without the tip, which is long gone: And here's the unbroken C2 bracket that Jim sent me off the 1995 F450. However, these two brackets have the same ID # on them, so they are the same. This distance is .125", and that cast bracket isn't going to flex anywhere near that much, so it'll break right at the corner where all the forces get concentrated. Bill said that the guy probably left off the backing plate on the water pump. Anyone see a backing plate here?

As I think about it I agree with Bill - the problem with breaking the casting is probably mis-alignment between the bracket and the water pump. With those 4 big bolts above into the block and head nothing is going to give up there. And since it is a casting, there's no flex. Something has to give, and the "give" is at the end of that tab. So, maybe there isn't a problem w/o the support bracket. But I agree with you, Jonathan, that a second return should be pretty simple. However, I would rather braze one in than weld it as I can do a water-tight brazing job but I'm not sure I can weld it that well. I'm sure you could braze in a 90 degree fitting. I also agree that a filter and a cooler should be adequate w/o the remote reservoir. I wouldn't mind having another of the 460 tranny coolers like Bill posted the pic of recently. It would look right at home on the radiator support, so if you run across one in your salvage runs..... Bill - It easily could have been Vernon's "mechanic". The one that didn't put in the valve cover gaskets, left the exhaust against the frame, and ran the fuel lines w/in an inch of the headers.

Looks like Magna-Pure is Cardone's brand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL4IokvT63k. Might explain why your pump came with one. The video shows that it is a magnetic ring set in a mesh filter.

I'm rethinking going with a Chevy reservoir unless it has the stud on the back of it for the brace. Look at the bottom mount on the Sag bracket - in the yellow circle. Yup, the tip has been welded back on. And Huck's bracket was broken there as well. Granted it is a C2, but the design is pretty much the same. Perhaps there's a problem w/o the brace?

Bill - That looks promising. As for measuring, I didn't want to get things dirty so spent most of the day cleaning the brackets. I think they came out rather well, but what do you think? There are a couple of pics below that show the measuring setup with the brackets bolted to the mill table to ensure nothing can move. You can see the inside mic that I used for one set of measurements. And then I used the dial calipers and measured through the hole to the table and subtracted the thickness of the casting at the hole. The two methods gave really close results, like within .006", but I'm showing the caliper #'s as I have more confidence in them. All measurements from the head mounts to the power steering pump mounts: Saginaw: C2: If we say that the C2 mounts at 5.670" and the two Saginaw mounts are 5.594", then that says that the Saginaw should mount .076" aft of the C2. Not nearly as much as I expected, so am I thinking incorrectly? However, the difference between the Saginaw mounts are .361". Here are the pics:

There's actually another problem I'm fighting - getting Google to index the forum. I realized recently that I couldn't find things on the forum via Google search from the outside. The rest of the website yes, but not the forum. However, I could find anything and everything on the forum with either a Bing or Yahoo search. After running lots of tests with the Test Forum I have Nabble concluded that it has to do with the fact that the forum doesn't actually sit on the same site/server that the website is on. In other words, the user is "redirected" from the Weebly site where the rest of the website is to the Nabble site. Bing and Yahoo don't care, but Google cries "foul!" They've made a change that has let Google find 140ish pages of the forum, but it isn't liking the other ~180 pages. So they are working to get it to find/index the rest of the forum.

Glad it works. Boy, I never imagined the weird problems running a site would find. 🤔 On Fri, Feb 23, 2018 at 10:27 AM, 85lebaront2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Might the remote reservoir might solve both the interference with the bracket as well as the return issue?

Maybe I'm making this too simple, but in my mind the pulley's location has to be fixed. Has to, otherwise the belt will come off. And you are going to use the same bracket with either pump. So the distance between the back of the pulley and the bracket must not change. So, what we need to know is how much to move the Saginaw aft to put its pulley in the same spot as a C2's. Assuming that your C2 pump and Saginaw pump are/will be the same as those I have, we can ascertain that distance in two ways: I say all that to make sure we are all on the same page. Does that make sense?

Good analogy. As for the pump, all I can do is give Jonathan the dimensions of my pumps. (I just realized I have the one I rebuilt for Dad's truck which I can also measure.) And, hopefully that with the source of the pump, like the year and model of the vehicle the pump came from, he can get the same pump and know it'll fit.

Jim is right about the mill vs drill press. A mill's column has bearings designed to take both end and side loads. But most drill presses have bearings designed for end loading only. So you have to be very gentle and work very slowly, and with very little leverage. I've done it, but it isn't ideal at all.

I'll let Jim speak to the broach question. But when you mill you want the end mill's working point to be as close to the chuck as is possible. So short mills put as far into the chuck as possible is best, and then put as much of the mill through the part as you can so you work at the top of the flutes. Too much leverage will cause problems, especially when using a drill chuck instead of a collet.

Won't the inside edge of the belt be the same for a C2 as a Sag if the engine is the same? All the other pulleys don't change so the power steering pulley can't either. Since the belt/running surfaces of the pulleys should be in the same position, and since the pumps and pulleys are used as a team, I was thinking that the real question becomes where the Sag mounts with respect to the C2. If I measure from any reference point, like the head or the water pump, to the mounting position of the power steering pumps we will know the delta. Just move the Sag back that amount on any engine's C2 bracket and the pulley should be in the right position. I must be missing something. Or saying this poorly. Perhaps a rudimentary drawing?

That should work, but you'll need a true end mill, or cutter. And it needs to be a single-ended one so you have some place to put it in the chuck. Like this one, although it is the wrong size. Drill a hole, change the drill bit to the end mill, and then gently create your slot.