Gary Lewis

Ok, will do.

Yeah, surely faster in a Bullnose. Jonathan's gonna find out in Sept. He's probably 2/3 of the way to you, so we'll extrapolate his elapsed time.

Thanks. As for its location, it is in the back of beyond. If you don't know where that is, ask Mark/Dyn Blin. Or maybe Jochen.

When do you need it? I'm trying to get Huck out of the shop and off to the scrap metal place, so can't blast it right now. But can in a few days.

Well done! That is an ingenious approach.

Guess I misunderstood. No, it doesn't matter to me. Is the one I'm sending back truly a spare? Or, will you be using it on Darth? Just wondering about cleaning it up. It isn't any worse than the one you sent, but ......

Look what I got today. Notice the date at the bottom. There may be more in another section, but I wanted to get you this ASAP.

Well, I think the Novak site is partially right. Tell me what you see on these pages from the new-to-me 1983 organizer.

That's an easy answer - Page 61 shows where each injector goes: 1 - 8. But, in reality there are just two sets of injectors since your engine is "bank fired". One set (1, 4, 5, & 8) has the tan/orange dot wires. The other set (2, 3, 6, & 7) have the tan/red dot wires. So, as long as you have the right color wires going to the right cylinders you are good. But, even if you put the wrong wires to the right cylinders you'd still be getting gas out of the injectors. And, it is likely the engine would try to run, if not run albeit poorly. So I doubt that's the problem. Now, your post set me to thinking, and C160 is the easy way to test things. Disconnect it and on the part going to the injectors you can put power to the red wire and then take either the tan/orange dot or tan/red dot wire to ground. And you should have gas out of 4 injectors, although just proving that you get gas out of one of them should be enough.

Bill - Got the data log, thanks. I have some questions but will ask them under separate cover. As for the plenum, guess I'll ship yours in a different box. As for the plenum itself, you said it was stripped out, but apparently the USPS ran bolts in and then twisted them off. Seriously though, now I understand why you wanted another one. When you said a bolt hole was stripped out I thought it would be cheaper to helicoil it than ship it two times. But, getting those things out of aluminium wouldn't be easy. I'm thinking I'll hacksaw the bulk of that part of the casting off, do a bit of milling, and then round the corners w/a flap wheel. And, while I see what you mean about running a tap deeper and blocking the whole thing off with a plug in the back, I think I want to tap and plug the side hole as well just for to make it look better. Thoughts?

Cool! At least you know it is in good hands. But, does it win?

My buddy James called last night and said he took some fittings and other misc. parts his work was throwing away to his house. So I went by and grabbed a few I thought would be useable: He also told me if I needed some SS tubing that he had some of that also: Wow! How many of those are you going to put on like jewelry?

Bill knows far more about this than I do. But, here come's my simple view: According to Thomas Glover's Pocket Reference: Grade 2 has a proof strength of 55,000 lb-force/square inch Grade 5 has 85,000 lbf/in2 So the SS fasteners at 70,000 lbf/in2 would be 1/2 way between G2 and G5. Let's take the oil pan bolt - 390657, which is a 5/16-18. The factory shop manual calls for torquing it to 9-11 ft-lbs, while Glover's Pocket Reference says a G2's standard dry torque is 11.3 and G5's is 17.4 ft-lbs. So a G2 is adequate for that torque, and the SS fasteners would probably be happy to torque to 14 ft-lbs. Again, I realize that is is a gross simplification as it doesn't take into account the modulus of elasticity, clamping loads, etc. But, it seems to me that those SS fasteners are more than capable of holding on the valve covers, pan, water pump, etc.

Adam - You are on the map! Check it out, please. Bill - That had to have been tough. Perhaps Darin has seen it. Are you in contact with the owner?

Good luck. And you might have to crank the engine before you do it in order to get fuel pressure up.

10v during cranking isn't too bad. The drop is due to the starter's load, and the injectors should be firing if the other side is taken to ground. At this point I would probably pull a connector from an injector that's out of the manifold, and carefully put 12v to one side and, with fuel pressure showing, ground the other side of the injector. You should get a shower of gas, which is kinda scary given you are playing with 12v, so do you connection/disconnection to ground well away from the injector. Or, you could connect/disconnect the power instead of ground. If your fuel pressure stays up after cranking you should be able to do that test w/o turning the key on. But getting power and ground to the pins on the injector w/o them touching each other may be very difficult. However, you need to have the computer disconnected to ensure you don't cause a problem w/it, so the wiring has to be off.

Strange. I'm lost as it would seem that fuel has to come out if you have power, the negative side is getting grounded, and you have fuel. Hmmm, what if your "power" isn't good? What if you have 12v when no injector is being told to fire, but that the power goes way down when an injector tries to fire? Can you put your DVM on the power going to the injectors and the other lead to ground, and then crank it? Watch the voltage and see if it stays up fairly high, or if it goes way down. A bad connection somewhere between the EEC relay and the injectors would do that as you'd have 12v when no current was being drawn but much less with current.

Each injector should have two wires - a red for power and either a tan or a tan/white that goes to the EEC and is grounded by it. Red should be the same as battery power when the key is on - within a few tenths of a volt. And the tan or tan/white wires should go from battery voltage to almost ground (.7v) and back very quickly. The rapid changes will confuse your DVM, which is why a test light is better - it'll flash. Anyway, if you are seeing the voltage go all over the map then it looks as if the computer is telling the injector to fire. So, if you don't have gas then you must have low/no fuel pressure.

That would work. Or use a test light.

Don - As said, we won't be running people off. But we need to set a time for the balloting to end so we can award and present the trophies. (Yep, there are trophies!) So, if people want to hang around past 2:00 that's absolutely no problem. David - Good question. Yes, we have a big Ford bus that we could put across the entrance. But, my hope is that this year we will have so many trucks and vendors that we will have them all the way out to that entrance. However, it is something we can determine on that day. If it looks like we don't have enough I'll put the bus out there and bring Big Blue in.

Thanks. But it was easy peasy. I got last year's flyer in psd format, which is for Photoshop. I opened Photoshop and discovered that she used fonts I don't have. Googled the fonts and found them to be free, so downloaded and installed them. Then I edited the file and presto, we had a new flyer. It probably took less time to do than the say. Now I'm on a quest to get more vendors signed on, which will mean I will need to update the flyer. Oh, and I may need to add something about food, drinks, snacks as the 'utes will be providing them again this year. However, I have already suggested that they not only serve in the gym, but also have an awning outside to sell drinks - and to point people inside. Other ideas? Do you agree we should say 10 - 2 instead of 10 - 4? Thoughts?

That's confusing - both fuel and power to the injectors but no fuel from the injectors? As shown on pages 60 & 61, the injectors are powered by the EEC power relay. But them just having power doesn't mean they are being used. The EEC has to ground them to cause current to flow and the injector to open. So you need to check the tan and tan/white wires that go from the injectors to the EEC to find out if the EEC is grounding them. You should see voltage readings going crazy as the injectors are grounded and then the ground is removed. If not, you need to figure out why the EEC isn't playing along.

Beautiful car, Bill. Bet you wish you still have it. Just fyi, if Darin doesn't respond soon you can use his pin on the map to email him and ask him if he's seen the car. And, it would be hard to forget that one.

If the fasteners look good and fit well then we should document your find in the Resources section. So let us know what you think of them.

Folks - I've modified last year's show flyer to reflect the new date and slightly shorter hours - as shown below. (Last year people were leaving long before 4:00, so we thought that we'd end this year at 2:00. But, if people are still hanging around we aren't going to run them off.) And I put a thread called The Flyer in the 2018 Garagemahal Ford Truck Show Planning folder. All of this is to point to a new page (Bullnose Forum/Ford Truck Show Info) that contains links to higher quality downloadable files in case you'd like to print some of the flyers and hand them out or stick them up in your area. Thanks in advance!