Gary Lewis

I got a hand-me-down printer/scanner from Janey, and it works pretty well. In fact, I was planning on sending the book out to have scanned, but this one works well enough that I may do it myself. And, I could re-scan some other things, like out of the '81 organizer, if you need it.

I have some new XLS "pictures":

Yes, it is humid. Haven't been to Kenny and Ziggy's, but have been to the Galleria. We miss Dirty's, the Papa's restaurants (and the ones in IAH are not the same), and The Taste Of Texas.

We used to live in Katy so know how to say Umble. But I still snicker when I say it. I've never been to Cut and Shoot, but have seen it on the map. Gotta go some day.

Hopefully the ZF is the S47, but there's really only 50 more ft-lbs of capability over the S42, so I'm not sure that matters much. And, I hope he has the long-pinion Sterling in it, like Big Blue does. I'll bet that thing can turn whatever tires you can put on it.

Yes, Pete is right. Said another way, in Ford's infinite wisdom the number on the part is not the part number. The number on the box is the part number, but the number on the part is either an engineering number or an ID number, and those terms seem to be used interchangeably. Page 3 of the 1980 - 89 master parts catalog says: That statement is misleading as it says that a "part number" is on the part itself, and that is not true if you use the term "part number" the way they use it in the catalog. Go to the Windshield Wiper page in the link below and see how Ford really used the term "part number". Every page has the Part Number terminology in the 3rd column of the header. But in the blurb above the catalog goes on to say "identification number", and that's really the proper term - that or "engineering number". And you'll find that number in the Description column of the catalog. A good case in point is the wiper motor. I've added the part numbers for all the wiper parts to the page on Electrical/Windshield Wipers. Note that wiper motors for these trucks can have two different part numbers: E0TZ 17508-B; or E2TZ 17508-A. But the latter replaces the former, as "r/b" means "replaced by". So, Rock Auto is correct on those two. However, it is not correct with the E69Z 17508-B & E79Z 17508-A (format corrected so you can compare). I've posted below the rest of the motor parts list, and you can clearly see that those motors are not for Bullnose trucks. But, back to the ID or engineering number. On the Windshield Wiper page you can see under Description that the later motor will carry the ID number of E2TF 17504-AB. So, your motor is correct, and its part number is E2TZ 17508-A. Clear as mud?

Mark - We don't want people to find you off this map. Just know the town in which you live - although in a town as small as Skiatook...... Bill - Yeah, I realize "close" is a relative term. Lots closer than I am to you.

Done, Don. (I originally thought about placing you in Plain 'O Texas. I just can't help it, that's what I think ofwhen I see Plano. And I also love "Humble Texas". Yeah, right. )

The brown brick nose in the background? Yeah, I don’t think that one is for sale, below is a picture of the engine he has in it... unofficially it is in the 500-600 hp range and ~1,200 tq. We will see where it lands when the tuning is done. We will probably see at H4H this summer (hunting for horsepower event). Wow! He got all of that under the hood? What tranny can hold up to that? What axles?

It looks to be complete. And, I can't see any rust other than that in front. So it looks to be solid. And a 351C can be potent. Can't tell what tranny is in it, but it could be a fun drive. And the price isn't bad. Those trucks are sought after. Besides, you need a Ford truck. And, while it isn't a Bullnose, it is still a Ford.

Dunno. But I’m actually down your way judging debates. Came down 169 at 7:30 and saw many wrecks - and watched one happen. Really really slick overpasses.

Looks good, Brandon. And yes, factory valve covers are sheet metal. As for strength, there’s no need for stronger bolts.

I think you'll be happy. Having the concern about customer service running around in your mind isn't worth it, and the AEM gets good reviews. Mine works fine.

That's the plan, Stan. The question is when. Gotta get Dad's truck ready for the show first. By the way, I got the bill of sale for Huck in the mail yesterday, so can now dispose of him. Oh yes, have you seen the Member's Map? The map resides here in the menu (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) , but the discussion thereof is in the Member's Map thread. I took the liberty of adding you, albeit not as Willing To Help as that seemed a bit too presumptuous. But, I can change that or delete you from the map if you want.

Done - you are bi-located. And, when in VA you are quite close to Bill. Do you winter in VA and summer in Canada?

You are now, quite literally, on the map.

Dennis - You didn't say where in northern Kentucky you are, so I picked Sparta. But it is easy for me to move it to wherever you are if you'd like. Thanks.

Wow! That's a lot of work - good work. Hope I get to meet Little Joe in September.

Thanks, Mark. But we may be going in a slightly different direction. See what you think about the approach shown here. Please let me know what you think.

Didn't know that, Bill. Perhaps he was right!?

Do you read lips?

I, too, have given up on using anything but Craigslist to search Craigslist. It is easy enough to search a 200 mile radius, and I really don't want to go much further than that. Having said that, I haven't used Searchtempest, so will give it a try. Thanks.

Yep. 👍

Yes, the choke coming off too early could easily cause the engine to stumble when you go from coasting back to power. But it would only happen while the engine was still warming up. And it wouldn't be dependent upon hard turns. So, if it really is because of the turn then you probably have a low float level. That means there's not enough gas in the bowl of the carb and on a hard turn the gas can be pushed to the side and away from the main metering jet. I'd make the choke change first, and if that doesn't solve the stumble then it may be time to check the float level. And we can talk you through that.

Pull the coil/distributor wire and place it close to a good ground. When you crank the engine you should see a good white or blue spark. If so, the coil is good.