Gary Lewis

You never know what someone has done before, so don't bet that they are Phillips. They could be cabinet/slotted or even hex-headed. But I'm sure you'll be prepared for anything.

These things? This is from Page 9 of the 1981 Accessories Catalog. What is interesting is that the accessories catalog plainly says they are for the F-series, amoung others, but there's no listing for them! Apparently by 1994 when my catalog was "printed" they'd run out of them and removed them from the catalog. But, judging from the van's part number being the same as that of the previous era's (D9UZ-A), I'll bet the pickup and Bronco's part number is D9TZ 18246-A.

OK, one more quick question then...how is the rubber boot attached to the tunnel cover? Phillips head screws? If I can get back there I might grab the stick out of this thing, and I might as well grab the boot if it's still intact and undamaged. This isn't the NP, but I don't find one for the NP and think they were done this way: And the AMK Products catalog says the 52743-S screw is:

I understand the A/C issue. I'm even contemplating having the A/C on Big Blue charged once to see if it'll hold as I want to take it to the Fordification show in MO in June. It's 230 miles round trip, and since Janey is going with me..... On the speedo, Big Blue's is about 5 mph slow across the board, which is hard to believe but seems to be the case. And that's dangerous as I have to keep reminding myself that I'm going faster than I think. So I do agree that showing faster is better than showing slower.

And Gary will set it aside with the stash for Darin. And, I'll watch for whatever Dave decides is the way to affix them to the truck. Darin - Does your truck have holes already to attach the bracket? If so, does it have nutserts in the holes? If so, what thread pitch? Dave - Why didn't your truck have the holes already drilled?

Thanks for the explanation. But, it sounds like the time to get an old camper is after the fest? Just get it out of the field?

Wow!!!! Congratulations!! Well done!

Jim/ArdWrknTrk contacted me to say that he has the valve covers I need for Big Blue. They are the later ones with the screw-in PCV valve and large o-ring. Unfortunately they are somewhat corroded, so it looks like I'm going to use a new-to-me powder - Black Wrinkle. (Sorry Jim. I know you call it black crinkle, but that's what Eastwood calls it.) I know that's Jim's favorite finish for valve covers, so was pretty sure he'd agree. I'm thinking that will hide the texture the covers will have due to the corrosion. And, it'll give some contrast to the Silver Lining (bright aluminum look) of the upper and lower plenums. In fact, I think I'll use that powder on the throttle body, fuel rails, and thermostat housing as well. And, speaking of the thermostat housing, I spent some time filing the gasket surface this afternoon and still have some work to do as Huck's housing was pitted. Also, you may remember that I twisted off one bolt in the lower plenum when removing the t-stat housing on Huck. I got to thinking about that today and decided I want to go with stainless when I put Big Blue together this round. So I sent Totally Stainless a note to see what they have for the EFI engines. Their web page says they have kits for Ford big blocks with "cast valve covers" as well as kits for them with "sheet metal valve covers". I'm pretty sure I know what they mean, but asked them to make sure. I also asked about stainless exhaust manifold bolts. They list header bolt kits for the 460, but not kits for exhaust manifolds, which I plan to run. So I measured the existing bolts and studs and asked what they have. I'm thinking I may display them at the show.

That may help others if they come across the page as I did not know what the (xx) number was for. I also saw in the 13550 area a B-R--w/chrome bumper , B--w/painted bumper , A for the "83" light and was looking for foot notes what they were for. Dave ---- I added that wording to the page.

Power steering coolers are shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/power-steering-illustrations.html. Scroll down until you see the tubes on the front crossmember. That's the cooler. And a plane Jane probably didn't have one. And, good move on the new battery cables.

This is a strange, confusing area. I know Big Blue has a lower shaft w/o a rag joint. But it may be a replacement.

I don't know. Would they have put an earlier style on? Yours looks exactly like Dad's. Here's another shot of his, turned upside down to match yours, and they look identical. Right?

De-coder ring to figure out how to read the part numbers At first I thought with out bumper PN:D6TZ 13550-A but looking up pictures thru Google they just did not look right So I picked PN: D7AZ 13550-A (no note with or with out bumper) and that looks more like the parts book picture on Google. Less bulb socket. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2322090.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XD7AZ+13550-A.TRS0&_nkw=D7AZ+13550-A&_sacat=0 Now they go for $20+ s/h to $46+ s/h again less bulb socket and it's not LED. Because I am in no rush when I have time I want to check other options for a light in LED models. Grote has some LED plate lights that look like they would work. Dave ---- First, the body code of 99 means Styleside and 83 means Flareside. ("99" is smoother than "83" is the way I remember it.) So I think you want D7AZ 1350-A. I'll put the above info about body codes on that page if you think it'll help.

Hey Gary, my '84 F150 (built in Dec '83) has the replaceable style rag joint. The steering shaft could have been changed I suppose, but everything else on the truck is original, so I assume the steering shaft is too? This is a very confusing area/subject. You saw where the parts catalog shows that the replaceable rag joint went away as of 2/81. Here's a clip from the catalog showing that the lower shaft supposedly changed on 12/81: So, which was it? Did someone drop the "1" from "12", making it 2/81? But, even so, that wouldn't account for a 12/83 build having a replaceable one. Can you post of pic of your rag joint and shaft? Maybe we can figure it out. (But I'm not going to hold my breath.)

I looks that for all 1980 models and 1981 models until a 2/81 build date that the rag joint was a separate part and could be replaced. But, as of 2/81 it became part of the lower steering shaft - 3B676. So, since yours is an '82 it should not have a replaceable rag joint. Here's a pic of the one on Dad's lower steering shaft:

I don't know what you are reading nor where, but the M-block "bible" is Bubba's site, and here's an excerpt from that page: And further down that page he has a pair of tables that give the combustion chamber volumes for the 351C and then the M-block heads. So you can figure out what you have and then see if the swap will help. And I don't think it will, so I'd check it out before you try it. As for power ratings, the 1982 dealer's facts organizer gives: Horsepower Torque 302: 132 @ 3400 232 @ 1800 351W LD 139 @ 3200 279 @ 1400 351W HD 157 @ 3400 271 @ 2400 400 153 @ 3200 296 @ 1600 460 (van) 212 @ 4000 339 @ 2400

Given that, then the price isn't out of line. Maybe you could detail out what the fuel system issues are? It might help people thinking about what is needed.

Hope I didn't hurt your feelings with my post in that thread. Didn't realize it is your advert. But, now you know my thoughts on trucks - if they run and I can drive them to check them out then I'll pay a lot more than one that I can't check out. I've done that several times and have gotten burned each and every time. So now I don't buy a non-driver to fix up, only to part out. On the 335 Series, the 351M is the little brother to the 400. Same engine save for the crank and pistons. Unfortunately you can't get pistons that will give you anything less than 8:1 compression, if that, for the 351M. But you can for the 400 - via Tim Meyer. So I bought a 400 for $40 and put the crank in Dad's 351M and now have a strong 400 - it put out 400 HP and 500 ft-lbs at low RPM on Tim's dyno. A friend of mine has an '81 F250 w/a 400 and he recently replaced the timing set with an aftermarket one, which corrected the 4 degree retard from the factor. And he installed an Edelbrock intake and carb. Said it doubled the power of the engine. I seriously doubt that - especially since another friend put an aftermarket timing set on his 351M and it helped but didn't make a huge difference. However, apparently the combo of timing set and 4bbl carb made a big difference on the 400. However, if I remember correctly 351C 2V and 351M/400 heads are the same. I have a write-up here (Engines/351M/400), and there's a link in it to Bubba's pages where you can check out the head spec's to prove that. If I'm right, then there's no reason to pull the heads off the 351C.

You think I'd give you half an answer? Yes, there's a part # tab that should answer your questions. But, if not please let me know what's missing.

That's a lot of money for a truck that you can't drive and check out. I usually only buy trucks like that for the parts because you are sure to find far more problems than you think when you do get into it. So, something closer to $500 would be what I would normally be willing to pay. Having said that, a newly re-manufactured 460 is worth about the $3000 asking price - if it was done by a reputable builder and has a warranty. So, it has potential.

The 400 is my favorite engine. It is an underdog and is much maligned. But, it has slightly larger stroke than a 460, so can have stump-pulling torque. And it has very large ports, much larger than those of the Windsor series, although smaller than the 460's. Plus, it is lighter and smaller than a 460. Tim Meyer has all sorts of goodies for the 400, including pistons and oil system upgrades, so you can make it whatever you want.

Welcome! 1981 - Good year. Is it a 400? And, a dually. Or, as Ford would say it, DRW. Just learned yesterday that yours will have a narrower bed than those from '85 on. Bill/85lebaront2 educated me on the axle lengths for the DRW's. Anyway, post up some pics! Oh, and do you want to be on the member's map? I usually add the first name of the member.

Sorry, I missed this. Let me take a look at one of my rag joints and get back with you later today.

We'll have to wait for Ray to chime in to confirm, but from what I gathered online, it is some kind of country music festival in the town of Craven, SK. I guess that would be a good place to take a classic camper van. If I lived further out in the country and had a bigger property with a longer driveway or larger yard, I'd be all over the F250. However, where I live now, we rarely have to plow snow. My driveway is only 110 ft long, and in all of this past winter, I only had to plow it twice (with my ATV), and even then it was really only because the wife was howling about it...lol. I could have left it and let it melt. Still, at $2500 CDN with a plow, the old girl does appear to be relatively intact for it's age and location. It could be rusted to bits underneath, but maybe not. Ahhh! A music festival would explain it. I didn't find that explanation. As for not plowing, you must have a relatively flat driveway. We lived in PA with a steep driveway but an AWD vehicle. I discovered that while you could traverse it one time w/o plowing, by doing so you effectively turned the snow into ice, and future trips were "tense" - especially in the downhill direction as there was a 90 degree turn at the bottom with a bolder on the other side if you missed it.

That camper is cheap - if it runs and drives. But I still don't understand Craven. Doubt it means the town in England. Nor one who is is cowardly. One who is into something? And the '85 F250 certainly is clean. And at $2000 US it is a buy - assuming that it isn't rusting away underneath. But, while it is an Explorer it has very little side trim. I'm surprised you could get an Explorer that plain.