Gary Lewis

I'm glad things went well. You did adjust the switch as shown here? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ignition.html

It also works well. Fortunately I haven't had to use it very often, but it works when I do.

Does that MAC scope even work after its overland journey? Can you take a pic of the waveform if you get it to work? Wow! 1" of spark! And it was HOT!

DON'T ROLL IT IN THE POND! I'LL BE THERE WITH MY TRAILER!!!!!! Seriously, you are right on the cusp of getting it sorted. I'll go back and re-watch your video, but whatever you did around the 5 minute mark made a big difference. So, can you tell us what you did at various points in time? Again, don't give up. Please! (But, if you do let me know and I'll come get it. )

That's a cool piece to stick in the end of a vent.

Ray - That's a really good read. Thanks! (Is that Daniel Stearns in the pic at the bottom?) Here's what he said about fusing: Not far off of my 20A suggestion. And I agree about the spares. And, the waveforms are very telling. The spike to over 20 is impressive, and the sustained spark is awesome! And, I'm sure you two are right that you could do this with a DS-II's PIP to trigger it. And you could put the HEI module in a DS-II case and no one would be the wiser. Bill - The EEC-V system uses an E-coil. How hot is that system?

THIS IS REALLY WHAT I DID TO MY TRUCK TODAY!!!!!!!! As I just posted on Dad's Truck Build, I actually did something on it today! (The last post was March 26th. ) And, as a teaser, here's a big part of what I did today. It may not look like much, but it took a lot of blasting to get things that clean.

Well, at long last it is time for an update on Dad's truck. Today I got a little bit done. First, I didn't like the look of the frame where the bushing goes: So I wire-brushed it and flap-wheeled it and then finally used sandpaper on it. I think it is now smooth enough that it won't hurt the new bushing. And I'll paint it with POR-15 in a day or two. Then I set to work on some parts that hadn't gotten media-blasted. The springs aren't perfectly clean, but I think they are good enough to also take a coat of POR-15, although I'm not 100% sure I'll be able to get to every nook and cranny with a brush. Anyway, the bolts came out of the blast cabinet in great shape, so they'll get powder coated in a few days. And the rear transmission mount will also get POR-15'd.

Today I added these TSB's: 83-14-1 UNDERHOOD PRODUCTION STAMP RELOCATION 83-13-7 CORRECT OIL FILL LEVEL 83-13-8 RTV SEALANT - NEW MATERIAL 83-13-22 ELECTRIC MIRROR LOOSE GLASS 83-13-4 SHEET METAL WELDING PROCEDURES

This page explains what vacuum hoses an '80 - 86 truck needs: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vacuum-systems.html. But yours isn't a Bullnose, so may not need the vacuum hose to the heating and A/C systems. But, that page doesn't include the vacuum choke pull-off that your choke needs. So if you keep that carb you'll need vacuum to that. So, let's talk carbs. In my opinion, which many on here don't share, the most simple and reliable carb is an Edelbrock, which is what you asked about. So here goes. To fully feed a 460 at full-chat you'll need a 750 CFM carb. But from what I've read the 4350 is a 600 CFM carb, so if you are just wanting to match that an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb would work. But, they also have a 650 and a 750 CFM carb. However, those carbs are across three different carb lines: Performer: This is essentially the original Carter AFB, which was a very good carb. I'm running the 750 CFM version on my 460. Thunder: This is based on the younger brother to the AFB, the Air Valve Secondary (AVS). The major difference between the AFB and the AVS is the adjustable secondary opening point. Adjusting the AFM is very difficult as it requires disassembling the carb and adding to or taking weight away from the secondary air valve's lever arm. But the Thunder/AVS has an extremely easy-to-use adjustment on the secondary opening point. AVS2: This is a new carb and I'm not au fait with it. But, from reading about it I think it is the Thunder/AVS with annular discharge venturiis. This should be helpful on economy, but then I'm not sure "economy" and "460" should populate the same sentence. Having said all that, from what I read your 4350 is a "spreadbore" carb , and that is going to be a minor problem. You might want to read this: http://www.drbob.tqhosting.com/tech/carb/4350_compared.html as you are going to need an adapter to bolt another carb on that manifold.

Haven't heard of tripods?

Let's see if these help. (Please disregard the red bracket.)

Been there, and had the same worry,

Never fear! That hood slides off. First, here's the one out of Dad's truck, all together: And here's the hood part way off: And, here's what's hiding inside: Voila! It is an 1815:

You have my rebuilt stuff, with bronze bushings. Right?

We now have a page for electrical specification (Specifications/Electrical oddly enough) and it shows the bulbs for these trucks:

Cool! How 'bout posting a video of you tuning them?

'Vair? Looks like fun. What year? Are those Rochesters?

Back in the day I used to sync multiple carbs with vacuum gauges. (Actually, a mercury manometer intially.) If you assume that the venturi are the same size, then vacuum at a given engine RPM is directly proportional to flow. It is like E=IR. If you know two of the values you can solve for the third. In this case E is vacuum, I is flow, and R is the venturi restriction. Used to do this routinely on 4 cylinder bikes, like CB750's, Kawi 900's, Yamaha 1100's, and the Goldwing 1200's. The linkages weren't perfect so we didn't get a perfect balance at every throttle opening, but we picked our balance point to be at cruise, and would go down the highway with one guy operating the bike and the passenger with the vacuum gauges on a board checking for balance. Stop and tweak and go again.

Here's the entry from the Year-To-Year Differences page on the Electrical tab: Haven't made it to the shop yet. Still drinking coffee. Will be by 10 and will check the light bulb spec.

It might just be an indicator of the real reason behind the difference. Possibly, the alternator output dictated the use of an ammeter or light; so the presence of the meter would indicate the fusible link size, without being the direct cause for it. That was just an example. What the wire can handle isn't relevant - the fuse should be sized for what the load requires, which should be shown in the system's manual. I'd only use a 20A fuse if that's what this particular system needs. If loads are added later, they can either get their own fuses, or the single fuse can be replaced with one sized for the combined loads. Yes, the alternator size may be part of the answer to why the different fuselinks. Something I've not looked for in the documentation is if idiot lights required the base 40A alternator. I would have thought I'd see that, but haven't specifically looked for it. But, that would play into the fuselink difference. And, speaking of what I can't find, I can't find a recommended fuse size from DUI. Perhaps it is there, but I've read the installation instructions several times and I do not see a recommended fuse size nor the current draw. And the lack of that info is why I suggested a 20A fuse. However, a better approach would be to call them and ask. What I did find is that the distributor needs at least 10.5 volts to work. So, with that info and the fact that they recommend #12 wire, the dizzy must be a very low-impedance device and pull lots of current. So I'd fuse big to ensure the fuse isn't running hot and fails when you hit a bump way off the beaten path. I agree that's not the scientific way to choose fuse sizes, but all you are jeopardizing in this case is the distributor's electronics should it short internally. And if it shorts internally it is gone anyway.

I think it is the same bulb as the instruments, but I don't remember. I can check tomorrow though.

The one at the bottom R of this chart? https://supermotors.net/getfile/832986/thumbnail/bulbsfuseswire.jpg AFAIK, all '80-86 trucks have the female side of the light blue connector: https://supermotors.net/getfile/645722/thumbnail/auxbattconn.jpg Absolutely. Without one, a short in the wire to the DUI would NOT burn the (heavy) fusible link wire, and would probably catch fire itself. Fusible links aren't actually rated for current. They're engineered into the harness to protect the other wire. So the fuse should be sized for the DUI system's designed peak current. If it says it draws a maximum of 5A, use a 5A fuse. A fuse doesn't blow until current is 111-125% of its rating. https://supermotors.net/getfile/849725/thumbnail/fusesblades.jpg It's sometimes taped up in the harness, or farther down under the booster. Look at my photo above. Steve - Your chart doesn't quite look like the one I saw earlier today. Mine is simpler, if I remember correctly. But it could be the same one. We will see next week. As for that circuit, I agree. I think all the trucks have that circuit, just not the relay or stud unless they had the aux bat or trailer. Oh, or DRW. But, there were two different sized fuseble links feeding them, depending on whether you have an ammeter or not. That bit I don't really understand though. And, the fuse is in the drawing now. But I wouldn't put a 5A fuse in for HEI. The inrush current is apparently quite heavy, and if you use #12 wire I'd go for 20A since the wire can easily handle that much.

Boy, those gauges look exactly like mine. Are you sure that's not my pic? Did the tach work? And, the blue bulb is the light source for the headlight and wiper switches.

Cool truck. Too bad it is so rusty. But, not as rusty as that Bronco.