Gary Lewis

You can peruse the Ebay & Craigslist Finds to get an idea of what things are being listed at - not necessarily sold at. In Ohio, the buckle of the rust belt, that will go for more than it would in AZ or the Pacific Northwest. So it is hard to say what it will go for. Perhaps others will have some idea? As for the map, I can't just say "Mass". I have to have a city.

Are they symmetrical?

First, welcome to the forum! Second, where are you located? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to add you to it. Third, these truck certainly can be reliable enough to be daily drivers. And that one may be just about there. It looks like a gear-splitter behind the transfer case, and as explained in the description that should allow higher highway speeds. I don't know which gear-splitter it is, but Jonathan will know and will probably be along to answer in a bit. The truck has 3.54 gears, according to the certification label, and a T19 tranny. That's what I have in Big Blue, and he goes down the highway at 65 MPH turning 2500 RPM. That's too much, so the gear-splitter will be like and overdrive, bringing the R's down. And, no concern on Canadian-built trucks. Anyway, nice truck. If you buy it you should start a thread on it in the main section.

Bill - Thanks. Yes, I have the plastic plug. But I wonder if under all the crud on the 460's engine plate there are holes. I'll pull that thing off and clean it up to find out. It is gross! Jonathan - I'll have to look at the tranny tomorrow, but I can come under the front and the rear with large ratchet straps, as shown below when I took that monster out of Huck, thereby missing the pan. The straps won't hurt the paint, although I might pad them. And, I have a load balancer like the one below that will let me tilt the tranny to line up with the engine. Plus, I don't have to use the tranny jack as I can lay the tranny in from the top with the shop crane. So if I can place the engine and prop the rear of it up with a jack stand or floor jack (remember, the truck will be down at almost ground level) then I can add the torque converter afterwards. The TQ is HEAVY on an E4OD, and especially so since I went with one that is extra stout. And then add the transmission.

Bill - That was Arte Johnson. Anyway, I don't understand about the notes that don't exist. If you go to the new Driveshafts page and the Applications tab it says the 1980/86 F350 2wd's are on Page 31. Here's a screen grab from the bottom of that page, replete with notes. Did you go to the old page?

Only got a little bit done today: Found two flywheels/flexplates. Not sure why I have two, but they appear to be the right ones for a 335 Series engine as they bolt up to the crank on Dad's engine. So far I've not found any #'s on them, but I can confirm they are the right ones as they have a 180-tooth ring gear just like the 460, but have a smaller hub, so can't be interchanged. Anyway, one of them has really good teeth on the ring gear, so that's the one I'll use. And, I pulled out one "Plate Assy. (Engine Rear)", and I'm sure it is for the 335 Series engines. I compared it to the one on the 460 out of Huck, which had an E4OD behind it, and it looks identical with the exception of 3 small screw holes to attach an inspection cover - the 335 one has them and the 385 one doesn't. I guess I'll pull Huck's engine off the stand and get that plate off, just to make sure. Bill - do you have an inspection cover for the torque converter on Darth? I also pulled the adapter I made to space the flywheel on a 335 back to where it should be on a 385. I'll use it and be able to use a 460's starter as it registers on the transmission, which is a 460's transmission. And, I found the place bolts for the flywheel, the mount/isolator bolts, the tranny/engine bolts, and the t-case/tranny bolts. I'll have to blast and PC those to be ready to install the engine, tranny, and t-case. But, now for the lament. Did I ever tell you that I don't like to paint? Well, I put on two coats of POR15 Rust Preventive Coating in gray on the tie rods and front sway bar. Heretofore I've used their gloss black, and have always complained that it is hard to tell where the quasi-cured base coat is when you put their chassis back top coat on as it goes on shiny and you can't tell the difference. So, I thought gray would be just the ticket as you can easily tell what's what. Yep, sure can. But, covering the gray isn't all that easy. I got two coats of chassis black on and will have to hit it again tomorrow. In future I might go to a chassis black spray paint to cover the POR15. Apparently if you put it on while the POR is still sticky it'll bond, and it sure would be easier and smoother.

Someone on Facebook asked a question about driveshafts that our documentation didn't answer. (He was looking for 4wd F150 info and we have F250 only.) But I got to looking at what I'd put out there and it was/is confusing. So I've tentatively revised things and I'd like you to take a look at it. The new page is at Driveline/Driveshafts. (BUT, WHEN USING THE MENU AT THE MOMENT YOU HAVE TO CLICK DRIVESHAFTS TWICE. I'll change that if y'all agree that this is the better approach.) Previously the pages looked like what is shown below. With the exception of the Rear Axle Vents, I think the new info on the Driveshafts page replaces all of the ones below. Do you agree? Driveline: Driveshafts: (Click twice) Coupling Shafts 4wd Driveshafts Rear Driveshafts: F100 2WD Driveshafts F150 2WD Driveshafts F150 4WD Driveshafts F250 2WD Driveshafts F250 4WD Driveshafts Rear Axle Vents F350 2WD Driveshafts F350 4WD Driveshaft

Well, I'm sure glad that I don't bounce around. (Let's see, church, family, website, Dad's documentation, Big Blue, Dad's truck, ....)

Yep. But it is takes a 20a 110v circuit. Not your normal 15a. In fact, it plugs into a 20a outlet, one of those with a prong turned sideways. I think they said it would work on the low setting on a 15a circuit, but that's remembrance from a long time ago. Anyway, I've built my shop crane, my engine stand, and many other tools as well as repaired the frame, welded on exhaust systems, etc. Now, if I were buying again I'd go a bit larger, but this one has worked well for probably 20 years.

By ear. Get it where you like it and where it doesn't stall when going in gear, nor makes serious clunks. But, if it is the throttle position sensor changing the idle speed won't help.

Well worth the $350 if you have a Windsor for it.

And, there you have it. But, maybe mounting a Bullnose dash in a Bricknose can be done? I can provide Bullnose pics if needed.

I'm sure others will have differing opinions, but my 110v Century works well. Came with a cart, which was an additional cost on the others. But, if you don't have a shop in which to roll it, then that might be a hindrance.

Man, if I were that close on Dad's truck, which I can't even imagine, I'd be chomping at the bit to get it on the road! So, I'll bet you are as well.

Let's hope it was just expansion. But let us know what you find out, please.

I'm sure that question is to Dave, right?

Why did you exclude the option of putting the trans in, then the engine? That worked very smoothly for me, but the body out of the way. Read this & the NEXT several captions: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1066261/thumbnail/07in1.jpg That would work if the transmission crossmember were in place - or if I already had holes in the frame for it. But I don't exactly know where it goes since the E4OD is several inches longer. than both the C6 and Zf5, for which I already have holes. So I need the engine in place, and then the tranny, in order to know where to place the crossmember.

I used SEM product on my 70 AMC Javelin dash frame (it has a new pad) and the dash on my 81 F100. I will do the kick, door panels and think the seat belt covers. As with any painting it is all in the prep. Dave ---- Yep, SEM is my go-to vinyl/plastic dye.

Bill - You have to remove the bezel, which means removing several screws and the wiper and headlight knobs. But with the bezel off you can slide the cover off the bulb and change the bulb. I don't know any other way.

Pete - It looks wonderful, and will last a lifetime. Well done.

If you hold an air or battery-powered impact in tightly they usually get the job done. But what I like about the hammer-driven one is that it is driven in, not just held in, with the hammer blow.

I am just getting to this now but went thru all the post before I answered it but the answer is it will not fit I tried to fit the 19 gal from the parts truck to my short bed flare side. Because of the flare side small 16 gal tank is why I installed the parts truck 19 gal rear tank in my flare side Dave ---- Why not a Bronco 33 gallon, or the replacement 38 gallon?

I followed that link and quickly realized that I have way too many other things to do to consider a D60 swap.

This is what I'm talking about. But, now that I look at this pic I realize that is caused by the angle. And, I'd say they may be for a Bullnose.