Gary Lewis

Great! But, this is a picture gallery, so where's the pic?

Thanks, Jonathan. All - I've added a how-to on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page and on the Embedding tab. Please take a look and see if that makes sense to you. I'd like to get it right before forgetting about it. Also, you can download a copy of my document and use it as a template if you'd like. You can change the names of the headers, like External Links, Engine, Interior, etc. And delete my words and add your own. Just don't forget to click on "Contents" and then click on "Update Table" in the pop-up menu, and probably click the "Update entire table" radio button. That will update the contents to match what your headings are and where they are.

That is a beautiful truck! And, as I frequently say, you could not recreate it for that price.

Well done! The coffee can is going to work nicely. As for the link, I've been able to get the link out of one vacuum motor and use it on another. But your solution should work equally well.

When I hear "nice" that I can't help but think of:

Interesting! I didn't think about it having the ability to be opened as a document, but it certainly does. You could even download a copy if you so desired. Cool! Glad you pointed that out.

As Jim/ArdWrknTrk says, progress is good. And you are making progress. It does look like the valve is the issue, which make sense as it was the only common thing that could keep fuel from the carb if the pumps are running. As Bill said, you need to verify that the valve works and which way it goes when it does work.

Dually and Flareside had the same doors, Styleside was the odd man out. But let's see what Cory says before you pull one.

I "third" the vote for the 1406. I have an '85 460 w/a Performer cam, intake, and long-tube headers. I've been running and Eddy 750 CFM, but recently built a 1406 for my brother's 350 Chevy and wanted to test it. So I installed it on my 460 and was pleased with how well it ran. I really think it got better MPG, or maybe "less bad", and had only slightly less top end. As I told him, if he hadn't wanted the carb I would have left it on.

The only way to correct the orientation is to open the pic in a photo editor and save it. That usually does the trick. The issue is that this, and most, forums don't have the smarts to read the metadata embedded in the picture. That is what tells the orientation of the camera. Most photo editors do read the metadata and then re-orient the pic when you save it. Most, not all.

Bill - Thanks. But I hope the others will chime in. I'm not worried about the content, but the approach.

Nope, originally from B.C.! Weather is great too, the kind that makes you want to open the garage door as you tinker away. I have not seen that truck from B.C., but I noticed as a whole, the rebuilt/restored/custom bullnose presence is starting to get better. I deleted the mid-ship tank as I prioritized the dual exhaust with x-pipe and electric cutouts being ran symmetrically. I opted for the larger 38 gal (I believe, it's been a while) replacement for the rear instead. I have a 38 gallon rear tank for Big Blue, but plan to also run the 19 gallon mid-ship tank. Are you going to run the Bullnose era pump? The beauty of a single tank is life without a switching valve.

Folks, I've added a new feature to the thread called Dad's Truck Build - a document to summarize all that's been done/going to be done to the truck. And I'd like your help in getting the document "right". (There is really no "right" as it is in the eye of the beholder, but you are the beholders and I'd really like your thoughts.) First, this is not just for me. I can show any of you how to do this with your own thread(s) if you'd like. All it takes is a Word document that you create and save on an online storage service like Google Drive or Onedrive. From there you get the "embed code" and put it in your opening post. And then it automagically appears and when you update your document it'll get updated in the post. Now, for what I've done. As many of you know I started this quest many years ago while I frequented FTE. And, as shown in the document, I started many, many threads called "Dad's Truck's XYZ". In fact, I've found 14 different threads on FTE that start that way - and I probably missed some. So the information on this truck is fragmented to say the least. And then we "chased rabbits" once or twice in those threads, so digging the info out is painful. Which basically explains why I've created the document. It gives me a place to provide links to those threads and, more importantly, provide links to the posts where a particular issue was discussed - so the reader doesn't have to peruse hundreds of posts to find the information. (The Dad's Truck Build thread on FTE has 765 posts all by itself. ) To put it another way, someone recently suggested I write a book about Dad's truck, and this is sort of that. It is intended to be a cohesive summary of things that have and will be said about the truck as it is being built, and should then serve as the documentation I can pass on to those who get to maintain it. So PLEASE look it over and tell me what you think about the plans. Not the words I've written in it, but the idea behind it and implementation thereof. And, here are some things to think about: The Contents section is hyperlinked so you can click on any section to go to it. But, I need to find a way for you to get back to it w/o scrolling all of the way to the top - right? Each section is currently on its own page, but they don't have to be if a section doesn't warrant a full page. I don't know that the Create & Stick To The Plan section needs to be in there, but it is something I think people need to see. Somewhere. It is biting me, so don't follow me if you don't want to be bitten. So, PLEASE take a look and let me know what you think.

Wow! Stout! That will be quite the truck. And I'm in no hurry, whatsoever.

Ryan - WELCOME! So glad you followed the trail. Wow, what a transformation! That looks so good! In fact, it may be cleaner/better than one near and dear to me. Do I see tubular crossmembers? Or just hoops to catch the driveshafts? Headers, ZF5, Edelbrock carb, and what kind of front axle is that? As for the map, you are on it. And, I'm quite a ways away from being ready for interior, but let's talk about the Rosewood. Hope you can get back to the project. I've recently done that and it sure feels good. And, you certainly need a build thread. But I'm working on a trick that I hope to post about in the main section in a bit, and you may want to think about using it for your thread. (Anyone can, and you can retro-fit it into your thread, as I'm doing on mine, so there's no need to wait to start the thread.) Welcome!!!!

Gary, different shape I'm afraid. Flareside is shorter and wider by the looks of it. I think I can fix this one...stay tuned. But yes...you just squeeze the spring with a Channellock an it almost falls out, and then bend the tabs to get the pins out. In any case, I'll report back with this one after I attempt to repair it. Standing by .....

Your truck should have the 2G alternator, which was new to the Bullnose trucks in '86. If so you won't have a regulator, which is a square box, on the fender behind the starter relay. And it will be wired as shown below, but which comes from here: Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM/Charge & Power Distribution - Gasoline Engines. So, if you've tested the alternator off the truck and proven it is good, then the problem has to be one of two things. First, check that with the key in Run that you have battery voltage on the light green/red wire. That provides the initial excitation to the alternator, and w/o it the alternator won't charge. Second, ensure that all of the connections are good, including that the alternator is grounded.

Cory - I think Ford may have used the same part on the Stylesides. Here's a pic of one from a Styleside that I haven't taken out/off of the door. But, I can do for you - did you just bend the tabs a bit to get the pins out? It measures 3 15/16" center-to-center on the holes and 3 3/16" from the left tip to the tab at the bottom, 3" from the right tip to the tab, and 4 11/16" outside/outside on the tabs. If it'll work for you I'll pull it and ship it to you.

Yes, I intended to mention that. Another case of Ford not throwing anything away? Maybe they ordered several thousands of those trim sets and when they didn't sell put them on the spec trucks they built to put on the lots?

By the way, while on the topic of different terms we use on opposite sides of the pond, this one was mentioned on one of my Podcasts the other day. A British guy mentioned a term that he hears in the US all the time and NEVER hears anybody say it in the UK: When you ask somebody "What's your story?". Ha! It was funny to me, because I ask people that all the time...lol. The British guy said you'd never hear anybody ask that in the UK unless it was during an intense police interrogation...lol. Well, we might have another Brit soon. I'm "recruiting" Matt Wood from FB. He volunteered to send me info on his truck, like the build sheet, Marti report, etc, and I recognized his town name when messaging. We shall see.

LOL. That never even occurred to me, but the color is very close! I don't know what brand bandaids they are...I got them at my work, but they're really tough! They don't fall off...I had to cut one off this morning. Not to be outdone, I guess I'll have to order some maroon ones. (You'll have to take my word for there being two as it is rather hard to hold a camera and take a picture of both hands at the same time.) But, how many people does it take to put an Aggie bandaid on?

Ding! Ding! Ding! Give that man the prize!

Yes, it is. Love mine. It ain't perfect, but certainly is a nice truck. Hope to get it back tomorrow as it is in the body shop due to a buck deciding that he wanted to cross the road regardless of what was there. Damage to the front fender, replacing the front door, and damage to the rear door.

A trick I've used is to tighten the bolt on the puller as much as I could reasonably, then take a big hammer and hit it. Sometimes hitting the end of the bolt of the puller works best, sometimes hitting the side of the pitman arm does. But then I can usually get another few degrees tightening the bolt, and can eventually walk it off without feeling like I'm going to break the puller. Bob - I forgot to reply to your post. But, I was using that same trick. To protect the pitman arm I had a brass hammer, but I was whacking the end of the arm near the shaft as well as the end of the bolt on the puller. I'd run the battery-operated impact until it stopped moving, all the while banging on things, then went to the air impact. That didn't go much farther - until I changed to the bigger air hose and connected it close to the compressor. Then it turned a bit and I banged a bit. And finally it "walked off" as you said.

I'll check my stash to see if it there's a chance that the Flareside doors I have look like that part could be grafted on. And, by the way, I like the "bandaid". Mine are pink. Blue looks more manly.