Gary Lewis

Ben - Welcome! Glad you found us and decided to join. That's quite a story about the truck. And, it makes it special. But, is the degree physics or engineering? Or both? Mine is math & physics, but I had two years of EE before I changed schools and had to switch. That's a really good looking truck. You've really done a good job. You should start a build thread, tell us what you've done, add some pics, and have something you'll be able to get back to. Oh yes, where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I could add you if you'd like.

Yes, that looks like my list. But I'm not sure where I got it, so you may have gotten it the same place I did. It is here: Underhood/Vacuum Systems, but you have to click Vacuum Systems twice.

Thanks! They will look good on the truck, and I'm anxious to get them installed.

Be careful with paint remover. It could easily destroy the certification label.

Probably 3/8-1/2". But you should probably look at the gravel building up on your frame & in your shackle brackets, and size the hole for that. If you have none, 1/4" hole might be big enough. Steve - I'll check it out. Thanks. All - Finally got the paint/powder off the E4OD crossmember. Wow, that was a battle. Anyway, got it and the front crossmember powder coated today: Here are the markings on the front crossmember - FABCO and Made In Canada. I don't see any Ford stamp or part numbers. And here are the markings on the E4OD crossmember. But, I took a look this afternoon and I may not have the right tie rods/ends. So, before I paint them I need to figure out what I have vs what I need, and re-order if I have some of the wrong parts. Then I can paint the sway bar and the tie rods and get all that assembled. Plus put the wheel bearings in and the hub locks, and have a roller!

Jein. (German for "yes and no".) This page gives Mustang bolt patterns, and the one you are looking for is 5 x 4.5", which equates to 5 x 114.3mm, as your truck apparently has the 5 x 4.5" pattern in the back. But, there's a lot more than the bolt spacing to whether a wheel will work. Notice the other columns, like offset and center bore. I don't know offset your truck needs. Nor do I know the center bore of the hubs. Anyway, I do hope that helps?

I hadn't realized that Ford revised the door handles in '87 and replaced the E0 # with E7TZ 1022405-A. So that's one of the original design door handles. And I have no idea what the difference is. But, it is a good price. Hmmm....

Cute!

The only full VIN's are the plate on the leading edge of the dash and on the certification label on the door post. And, speaking of that one, you can't remove it and have anything. What comes off is the clear plastic cover and that appears to wipe out the letters.

True, the horsepower at the torque peak will be equal to the torque if the torque peak is at 5252 rpm. But unless the engine has a REALLY peaky torque curve the torque will be not be falling off as fast as the speed is increasing. So the peak horsepower will be higher than the peak torque, and at a higher speed You are almost (but not quite) backward. First of all, if the torque peak is above 5252 rpm, then the horsepower at the torque peak will be higher than the torque. For example, an engine making 400 lb-ft of torque at 6000 rpm is making 457 hp at 6000 rpm. But in reality you can't simplify it that much. Because an engine with torque less than hp can still have the torque peak below 5252 rpm if it has a very flat torque curve. For example, an engine with a torque peak of 200 lb-ft at 4000 rpm might only drop off to 190 lb-ft at 6000 rpm, which would be 217 hp. You can use the 5252 to give you some tendencies, like if torque is higher than horsepower that you don't have a screamer. But the variability in the shape of the torque curve keeps you from being able to pinpoint it. And that gets to an error in your later hp and torque calculations... That would be true if the torque and power peaks were at the same engine speed. But that would only be true if the engine had an exceptionally peaky torque curve. Generally the torque falls off fairly slowly as you speed up past the torque peak, so the power is actually going up as the torque goes down. For instance, this engine might make 260 lb-ft at 1600 rpm, which would be 260*1600/5252=79 hp. But it might only be down to 210 lb-ft by 3000 rpm, which would be 210*3000/5252=120 hp. That illustrates a useful take-away. Peaky engines can be a kick to drive, but broad torque and power curves are more pleasant. One way you can tell by engine ratings whether the engine is peaky or broad is to look at the rpms at the torque and power peaks. If they are close together, then the engine is probably pretty peaky. But if the power peak is at an engine speed significantly higher than the torque peak, then it's probably pretty broad. Oh, and by the way, some might notice that I say "lb-ft" while others say "ft-lbs." Torque comes from multiplying the force (lbs) applied to a lever arm (ft). And multiplication doesn't care which order you go in, so ft multiplied by lbs would be mathematically the same thing. So neither lb-ft or ft-lb is incorrect. However, energy is also described in units of force times distance. So to avoid confusion, in the English system of units engineers and scientists use "lb-ft" for torque and "ft-lb" for energy. But as I said, mathematically they are identical, so it really doesn't matter. Bob - I clearly didn't fully comprehend that of which I typed. But, I do think I understand what you said. And, well said it was. So, I'll leave it at that and cease and desist. David - Yes, your engine is happy down low, has a flat torque curve, and yet rarely reaches 2425 but probably never does that at full throttle so never produces its max power. It just putt putts along, quite happy to be driven by an almost grandfather.

Hmmm? Trying to understand this... 4.9L with ~120 HP and ~260 ft. lb. torque @ ~1600 RPMs? 260*2425/5252=120 In other words, the 260 ft-lbs has to be at 2425 RPM to get 120 HP.

350 hp and 400 ft-lb means the horsepower peak is significantly below 5252 rpm. The formula for calculating horsepower is torque (in ft-lbs) times rpm divided by 5252. So I'm thinking the estimation is generous. Very true, Bob. I was aware of the equation, but was thinking backwards. So, the torque and HP will be equal if the torque peaks at 5252 RPM. And if the torque value is less than the HP it means the torque peak is at less than 5252 RPM. But if the torque value is higher than the HP value then it means the torque peaks higher than 5252 RPM. Did I say that correctly? To put this into perspective, I tout Dad's engine as having 400 HP and 500 ft-lbs, but without telling what the RPM is for either. However, since you are always quoting the torque peak, then you have enough info to solve the equation: 400 HP comes from exerting 500 ft-lbs of torque at 4200 RPM. And 350 HP comes from exerting 400 ft-lbs of torque at 4600 RPM. So, Dad's engine has more 25% more torque but only 14% more HP than the Mint engine. That's because the torque peaks at 9% lower RPM than the Mint engine.

And now to your questions: The aux battery relay should have 12v to it all the time on both of the main terminals. One side would be the 12v from the main battery, and the other the 12v from the aux battery - assuming it is connected. Those voltages will be slightly different - until you turn the key to Run. At that point you should hear a loud CLICK and the relay should come in. That will parallel the two batteries and essentially make their voltages the same. Then, when the engine starts the alternator will charge both batteries. As for the Start position of the ignition switch, that's when the key has been turned all the way and, if all else is correct, the starter is spinning. And, during that time two terminals on your starter relay will have battery voltage that otherwise wouldn't - the little "I" terminal and the large starter terminal. Priming the carb doesn't happen until Start. Yes, that can require a bit of cranking when the carb is dry, but it isn't too bad. However, some have added a push button switch to that circuit to bring the relay in prior to cranking in order to prime the carb. You can do that by placing the switch in parallel to the oil pressure switch, and when you push the button when the key is in Run the Fuel Pump relay will come in and spin the pump. But note that you'll be sending less than battery voltage to the pump since the voltage will be dropped by the .75 ohm resistance wire. The pump only gets full battery voltage in Start. But the reduced voltage is easily enough to prime the carb.

Josh - No problem. I miss posts all the time. I've taken your comment as permission to put you on the map. But the only thing that came up in your area when I typed in Northern Neck was the jail. So, that's where it dropped the pin. Take a look and see if you want me to move it. But we aren't trying to get precise as we don't want people using the map to show up on our doorsteps. But, in a place the size of Northern Neck, or Skiatook for that matter, it is pretty easy to find a person. Anyway, please let me know if you want your pin to be moved.

Yeah, ain't that the truth! I just wish the install of the front bar was as easy a job as the rear was (without the bed on the truck...lol). I'll have to remove the coils, which isn't the end of the world, but it's still a pain. I certainly understand that move, having just removed the coils to put the sway bar bracket on. But, in my case it wasn't that bad since the truck was still on the lift and I can reach down through the coil with a large extension to take the nut off.

Good questions!

Steve - I like the idea of drilling the brackets, and will take a look to see if it is obvious where to drill. And, as Jonathan asked, how big of a hole. And, the idea of undercoating is good for something like Big Blue, which is used for all sorts of things. But that's not my vision for Dad's truck. I'm looking for smooth, painted or powder coated surfaces. Jonathan - I, too, have spent a lot of time finding things in threads, most of which are my own. Which is why I really like the idea of pulling the bits and pieces together in one place to explain what's been done at a summary level, but give links to the nitty gritty detail with all the banter. And, by "links" I don't mean a link to the thread itself, unless it is a short one where everything is relevant. Instead I mean "permalinks" to the first in a series of posts relating to the subject. And, if there's a considerable break in the discussion on that topic, then a link to the next relevant post. Someone recently suggested that I write a book about Dad's truck's build. But I think this would be better than a book. It could tell the story at a Reader's Digest level, but then with the links would allow a person to go read the day-in and day-out conversation about what it took to get that particular part done. Now to find the right media for doing it.... And, by "right" I mean one that other people could use to do the same.

Actually, I just had another thought - links to relevant posts. This thread currently has 11 pages, but there are many other threads back on FTE that tell the tale of this truck. So why not put links to those threads, and more importantly directly to the relevant posts? That's easily done in a document, and would be so valuable to bring everything together in one place. And, once this method is perfected then anyone could have a summary document as the first post of their thread, and even if the thread runs to hundreds of pages have a fairly easy way to find things - other than searching.

Yes, the paint or powder coating is original. It was probably 98% "there", but I wanted it to be 100% so started taking it off, not realizing how hard that would be. We shall see if it comes off easier tomorrow after sitting overnight with stripper on it. I'm sure that will have dried, but I'll soften it up and scrape it off. As for discipline to update the document, I expect the thread itself to be the daily update. But, I hope to use the document for major things - like getting the wheels on! Yes, I'm pushing for that as it is a major milestone.

Yes, it does look good! It amazes me how few of the Bullnose trucks have sway bars when they are now pretty well standard on new cars.

The "I" post won't show anything except when the engine is cranking. Testing the oil pressure switch requires pressure. If you can't get the engine to start you could use air pressure and a regulator. I think the switch closes somewhere around 10 psi. And you can test the "Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay" while you have the oil pressure switch out. Put battery voltage to the red/yellow wire coming from the oil pressure switch and going to the relay and the relay should pull in. You can hear it pull in, and you should be able to then see battery voltage on the pink/black wire leaving the relay - assuming the inertia switch isn't tripped. You can check the inertia switch by checking to see if you have battery voltage on the yellow wire going to the fuel pump relay.

Thanks. Yes, I think having a summary in the first post of the thread will be a big help. And not having to edit the post to do so will be a big help as well. What I'd like to use is Evernote or Onenote, but I cannot get either of them to actually show in the post. In other words, the spreadsheet shows in the post and you can see what is there, click the various tabs, scroll around, etc. But the Onenote "embed" just gives a link to the file instead of showing the content. I've beaten my head against that wall for two days now, so am looking at other options.

Tank looks pretty!

Well done, Cory! However, I'm a bit suspicious about the horsepower and torque ratings. Dad's engine hit 400 HP and 500 ft-lbs with 10.5:1 compression. In addition, it was running aluminum heads. So I'm having a hard time believing the 350 HP rating - unless they really wound that thing up. Dad's cam was spec'd to give power at low R's, so maybe they used the large flow capacity of the 335 Series heads and really spun that thing.

I solder. And use adhesive-lined heat shrink. The only crimps I use are for battery cables, and those are done using 16 ton hydraulic crimpers giving extremely tight crimps.