Gary Lewis

Yes, that may well be it. Anyway, I sent him an email to let him know he has responses.

I think you are right - $12.5K is about it. Wonder what the reserve is?

That grease and dirt will keep things from rusting. And, thanks for thinking of me and my eye. It is basically completely healed.

I'm guessing his spam filter put the email notifications in the spam folder.

That's exactly what it is here right now. COLD! I can't imagine doing that work outside right now. But, I'll bet it made a huge difference. Was just looking at the tie rods et al I have for Dad's truck today. All new. All w/o paint.

Not a whole lot to report today, but bits and pieces. First, Dorman 81025 U-Joint Retainers kit is, indeed, somewhat universal. Instead of what it appeared in the online picture it has 4 different sizes of retainers: 2 each of two different external clips, and 2 each of two different sizes of c-clips. I bought three kits, so wound up with 6 of the right c-clips, which put me one short of having enough new ones to finish the job, so I put another old one in service. But, I did get all of the u-joint retainers in. And then I spent a bit cleaning up the grease and touching up the paint on the u-joints. The press and c-clamp hadn't been gentle enough, so there was a bit missing on the tops of each cap. All that is drying now and I'll be poised to put the driveshafts in tomorrow. And, I called Mile Marker and got the service kit on order for the hubs. One of the o-rings was damaged, so I'll be replacing all of them. And, for reference, the hubs I have are there older style 402's. Anyway, I put the outside part of the hubs on the lathe and used metal polish on them. (I have a bit of cleanup to do when the polish dries. ) And, while I was at it with the credit card I ordered new gloves and window protective film for the blast cabinet from Grizzly. That's 'cause I'll be doing a bit more blasting in the near future, and the fingers on my left hand are complaining about getting hit with the media. Plus the protective film is getting hard to see through. So I thought I'd get these parts coming in while I put the driveline together. Then I pulled out the front sway bar and front crossmember, and played with them to find out how they mount, what fasteners they need, etc. Turns out there isn't a good depiction of the F/U150 4wd swaybar with quad shocks in the MPC. So, once I got the way it all goes together figured out I captured the following pics for posterity. And, as said, I have quite a bit of blasting and powder coating to do in the near future. That would include the sway bar, front cross member, and transmission cross member, plus all the accompanying fasteners. A quick count says that's 48 more parts. Have I ever cautioned anyone about following in my tracks and blasting and painting or powder coating each and every part? So, what do y'all think about what color to use on the various parts? I'm thinking black for the cross member and all the fasteners, but use the Silver Lining that you see on the already-mounted sway bar brackets under the springs on the sway bar itself just to interject some color. Thoughts?

My I6 spends most of its life at WOT, which means no vacuum to operate the servo. I've had it drop out on hills & when towing, back when I used the vacuum system. V8s don't struggle as badly, but I still consider it a big weakness. But the thing I like most about the '93-04 servo (and '04-up software) is that each press of the buttons is exactly 1 MPH. So if you're in a 55 zone holding that speed, and it changes to 65, you can rattle off 10 presses of the ACCEL button, and it'll ease up to exactly 65 (it doesn't go to WOT like most other systems). Same for the COAST(decel) button. I haven't found any other cruise with that functionality except the very newest high-trim Maxima. My father thought his '10 Dodge dually had it, but it doesn't. Ford had it in the early 90s, and that system can be added to almost anything - including bullnoses (though it's much easier with an '87-up rear axle with the ABS sensor). I actually drive on cruise whenever I can - even in traffic. Interesting. I've not had the lack-of-vacuum problem. Dad's truck, when it had Rusty's warmed-up 351M and the ZF5, pulled the steep hill in eastern TN on I40 on cruise at 65 MPH. And the bed was loaded to the top of the cab's roof with furniture we took from OK to DE. R's were probably 1800, and it just motored right on up. But, I didn't tow with it so maybe the vacuum would have been low enough then not to handle the cruise. As for getting 1 MPH per button push, my 2015 F150 does that. And, it really is nice. However, the cruise on that thing is so aggressive that it really kills the MPG by constantly bringing in the turbos. Anyway, I was just curious why, and you've answered the question. Thanks.

Thanks! If it hadn't been for all the powder coating and painting I might have taken this elsewhere. But I doubt they'd be kind to the paint/powder, so needed to do it myself. And if the c-clips fit tomorrow I'll be a happy camper. Still need to find a repair kit for the Mile Marker hubs as one of the o-rings is damaged. And MM doesn't show one for that hub on their site so I'll need to call them tomorrow. Meanwhile I can lube the wheel bearings and button up all but the lockouts. After the driveline is installed I need to do the sway bar. And then maybe the brakes and brake lines. Then, I should be ready to install an engine and tranny.

Alan, you are now on the map!

Welcome, Alan! Glad you came over, and glad to meet you. Where's home? One thing we have that some others don't is a members' map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map). We don't put addresses on, just the town/city in which people live, but it helps us know something about each other. So, if you'd like to be on just tell me where home is and I'll add you. As for the back burner, Dad's truck can certainly understand that. But he's now getting some belated attention and seems pleased - as I'm sure your truck is/will be. Speaking of your truck, you might consider a signature that tells us what it is so we don't have to ask each time.

Yes, that can be a problem if the pulses are way off; the cruise may not engage at normal driving speeds, or it may keep working at low speeds when it should cut off. It's a bigger problem with the '93-04 system, which actually responds in MPH (which is why I like it so much more). Did you read the TSB in this caption? https://supermotors.net/getfile/185339/thumbnail/vss.jpg This one is also worth reading before you commit to that system: https://supermotors.net/getfile/491917/thumbnail/cruisetroubleshooting.jpg The pre-'93 servo is vacuum-operated. The '92-04 servo is electronic, which is a vast improvement. I've repaired a Rostra, and I'm not a fan. Why is the electronic servo "a vast improvement"? I've gotten along well with the vacuum-powered ones, but what am I missing?

No, I skimmed that article and noticed several "opinions" on the size. I seem to remember having clips like the kind you're looking for, that were a little too big. And I think I was able to file down the part that touched in the middle and get them to fit. HTH! I know that two steps forward and one backward is still progress, but when you have the step backward right out of the gate it doesn't bode well. I started assembling driveshaft parts by installing u-joints, and the first two things I joined weren't supposed to joined. So, the question became how to remove the u-joint w/o messing up the powder coating. A bit of trial and error found that this arrangement worked a treat: That's a piece of 2x4 w/a 2x2" hole milled in it. (Yep, it is amazing how quickly an end mill cuts through a piece of wood. ) The 1/4" plate on top spreads the load of the press, and out the cap came. Then I started assembling the right pieces and discovered that is very difficult w/o the c-clips. In every case one cap was willing to go in but the other wasn't. So the willing one got shoved back out w/o the clip to stop it. Luckily I had 3 clips left and made 3 more by breaking the ears off the snap rings that were in the boxes. And that allowed me to get everything together, albeit with some self-induced difficulty. You see, I was adding a bit of lube to each cap. But when I was then installing things I was having difficulty getting the last little bit of movement to install the 2nd clip. Then I found a little piece of paper in one box that said not to add any grease. And, sure enough, the next u-joint went together nicely. Also, I called O'Reilly's and they have 3 of the Dorman kits on order and they should be in tomorrow afternoon. If they are the right ones then I can install them and then install the front driveline. If not I'll call the outfit Grumpin found and see if they'll sell me some. Anyway, here's the driveline awaiting the clips as well as some cleanup and touch up.

I had a similar problem several years ago that turned out to be fuel hoses. There are short hoses between the fuel tank and the hard line, and from the hard line to the fuel pump. And, if you have dual tanks, hose from the hard line to the switching valve and from the valve to the front hard line. In my case the hose didn't like the new gas with ethanol and it was leaking right through the sidewall - leaking gas when stopped and leaking air when running. The air killed the fuel pump's vacuum after it ran for a while, and replacing the lines fixed it. But, yours may be a vacuum leak. If you have a hose off to the intake manifold, or a blown brake booster, you could be sucking lots of air. That makes the air/fuel ratio very lean, and the engine doesn't want to run. However, with the choke on it will run. So, before thinking about a fuel line problem or a weak fuel pump, you could look for a vacuum leak. Put a hose to your ear and poke around with the engine running and see if you can hear a hiss. Spray brake cleaner around and see if the engine starts running faster.

I hadn't thought of breaking one open. I do have a brand new one, but the spare M5OD trans I have actually has a damaged VSS in it, so maybe I'll check it. I forgot I even had it until you mentioned that. I didn't realize that the speedo drive was not a normal ratio, but using the 8/18 teeth (2.25:1 ratio), the math works out that my speedo cable is spinning 953 revolutions per mile, which is pretty close to 1000/mile, which I thought was what cable driven speedos were set-up for (not just Ford, all of them). I too prefer a servo operated cruise. I've used the Rostra car kits on motorcycles for years, and they work very well. However, for the cheap price of this kit, I might give it a whirl. Thanks for the replies gentlemen! Much appreciated. Yes, I once found that the target speed for the speedo cable is 1000 revs/mile, which at 60 MPH is 1000 RPM. Don't remember exactly where I found it, but it was pretty authoritative. And, I've documented it on the Calculator tab here: Driveline/Speedometer Gears.

I think I just typed this elsewhere. Since it jumps around with the computer out of the equation there are two failure points - the ignition module itself and the pickup in the distributor. If you've changed out the module and there's no difference then look at the pickup. One of the issues with the pickup is the insulation tends to fail on the wiring in the dizzy. Pull the cap and check that out.

Kyle - A couple of things. First, you have two identical threads, so can I delete the other one before people start commenting on it? Second, on the video, this forum supports videos from Youtube, Vimeo and LiveLeak. You have to get the "embed code", then click the "Embed" button above, and paste the embed code between the ">" and the "<" characters. I'll let you chew on that and I'll start a post re your problem.

Kyle - Welcome! Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I could add you to it if you'd like. A mechanic? You'll be handy to have around. And what kind of trucks do you drive?

Don't be so sure. Did I fail to tell you about my favorite part of a Holley? The power valve? The original Holley design was flawed, and yours is one of those if it is the original 4180C that came with the truck. The power valve, which is a fabric valve that controls the amount of fuel going in to the air mix, is easily blown in those carbs. (Holley later added a check valve that should have been there all along.) Just one backfire through the carb will frequently do it, and from there it runs horribly. It can be so rich it doesn't want to start if the choke is on, and it'll be so rich if it starts it'll water your eyes. Idle? What's that - it doesn't want to do it. So, you still may have fuel problems. One way to test that is to prop/tie the choke open and see if it'll start. It may take some stabs with the throttle, but it should start with all the extra gas. If so, how does the exhaust smell? Can you drive it?

Ok, that simplifies things. And, we won't have to ask next time. So a hard-starting problem or a poor-running problem can be either ignition or fuel. Let's take fuel first. Check for fuel in the carb by pulling the air cleaner, climbing up and peering down the throat of the carb, and opening the throttle - with the engine OFF. You should see two streams of gas shoot into the carb. If so, you have fuel. If not, we need to diagnose why you don't have fuel. Also, with the cold weather, is your choke coming on? You should have had to open the choke with your left hand to see the two streams of fuel when you opened the throttle with your right hand. If the choke wasn't closed we have a problem. Now for the electrical side, assuming you have fuel and choke. The easiest thing to do is to check that you have spark. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor's cap and put it close to a ground and crank the engine. Do you have a hot, blue/white spark? If not, we need to diagnose what's wrong with the ignition. The HO uses the simple DS-II ignition system. And the two failure points are usually the pickup in the distributor and the ignition box itself. One issue with the pickup is that the insulation on the wires tends to fail and a short develops. So pull the distributor cap and inspect the wires inside the distributor. That's probably enough for now?

There are two electronic parts that are possible failure points on your truck - assuming yours is the 5.8HO. So, let's start there. Your signature says "5.8W", but there were two of those in '85 - the 2v version with a computer controlling ignition timing and, to some extent, air/fuel ratio. And the HO version w/a Holley 4bbl and a DS-II ignition box, which has a blue grommet where the wires exit. Which setup do you have? And when we get that figured out you should consider upgrading your signature so we don't have to do this again. And, with that answer we can delve into what's wrong.

I specifically remember breaking open a jammed inline sensor & seeing 6 magnets. I thought I had seen the same in the bottom-end sensor, but now that you bring it up, I don't specifically remember tearing one open. It's been decades, so I don't remember that, either. But you have to find the ratio of the worm-drive for the bottom end of the speedo cable, which is NOT simply the tooth-count ratio, like it is for other gear drives. And it's not the same, but it's close enough to work. Another reason I think it will work is that I think the cruise module is the same for '91 trucks (worm drive) and '92 trucks (ABS). It just looks like another version of the sensor in my pic. Different connections, but the same guts. BTW I still think the '92-04 servo is a better system. And it uses the same control buttons as any other Ford cruise. I'm not all that knowledgeable on the speed controls, but I'm not sure the pulse/mile count is a big issue. Don't the controls just keep the pulses at whatever the rate was when you hit the button? It might change the low speed where it will start working, but ....

Gotta keep the banker happy. And you do have lots of other things to do, so.....

Gary I am thinking you cant lift it from below as where would you put the rubber pads? You can't lift from the lower bed side as they are not stiff enough and would fold like a wet paper towel. I am guessing he lifts at the stake pockets with straps around the arms. I do the same on my flare side but my straps go around the rafters and down to the bed stake pockets. Dave ---- Dave - Maybe I got lucky, but I've lifted on the bottom of the bed sides. Both with the lift as well as carried a bed from the front of the shop to the back. And didn't have any problems with it folding or bending. But I can see the issue. As for lifting from the stake pockets, that would solve the bendy problem, but now you have the potential for sway. And then the bed could hit the cab. Perhaps if you keep the straps really, really short? As said, I'm seeking to learn. I'm not anticipating picking up the bed, but the cab on Dad's truck. That's so I can drop the engine and tranny in as a unit and install the rear cross member, which has to be positioned and new holes drilled, so I need the cab out of the way But, I want to ensure I don't damage the cab or the bed in the process.

Looks great! But did you use straps to lift it? If so, I'm curious why. I would have thought you'd use the rubber pads on the lift to raise it, so I'm seeking to learn.

Sorry for the late response. Have you tried it after it sat overnight? Electrical problems, like the pickup in the distributor or the DS-II box, usually correct themselves when they cool off - until they get hot again. And your description of the symptoms do seem to fit with ignition problems. Having said that, the trouble is usually associated with the last thing you touched. But in this case it doesn't seem likely since it ran fine for 5 miles. And just changing the timing chain cover and adding the sleeve shouldn't make a problem - at least not one with those symptoms. Any chance you ran out of gas?