Gary Lewis

Steve - The cab is going to be so far up it won't be an issue, so I'm not worried about that aspect of it. (And believe me, I'm very careful around the cab.)But, your idea of laying the tranny in ahead of the engine has merit. It is one more step, but wouldn't be that much more work. I'll cogitate on that. Thanks. Jonathan - I hadn't thought about the different snout lengths for the 10.25 vs 9". Yipes! So it isn't likely that I'll find a driveshaft with the right configuration and length to fit. Which means I may have to have a driveshaft made. Perhaps they can cut down the essentially new one I have for Dad's C6/208/9" combo. Now for the other bits. The rebuilt 1356 was reconfigured to have the right yokes to match Dad's truck, which means the small cup yoke front and rear. The thought was that I could then re-use the original driveshaft. But the rear driveshaft off Huck uses a a slip yoke, so that's not going to work. Are you saying that I can easily un-bolt the cup yoke from the re-built 1356 and bolt on a slip yoke from Huck's 1356? As for the front shaft, is the 1356's yoke in a different spot than where a 208's yoke would have been, assuming the same transmission? If so, then Huck's front driveshaft should work, assuming that the u-joints are the right size. And yes, at one point I was considering installing the rebuilt 1356 in Big Blue when I put the EFI on and the ZF5 in, and then having his 1345 rebuilt to use in Dad's truck. And, as I think about it, that may still be an option. If Huck's rear shaft would, by some miracle, work if the 1345 had a slip yoke, then I could go that way and find the slip yoke. Bottom Line: I think the decision on what t-case and driveshaft to use needs to wait until I can do some measuring. I remember seeing that someone makes custom driveshafts for $300. But I can probably get Dad's "new" one cut down for that price. Or, I can get a t-case rebuilt for that. So, I need to wait until I get the engine and tranny in, steering in, and drop the truck down on the ground for some measurements. Thoughts?

Welcome. Glad it worked out so easily. And, is seems like you have turned a corner. Well done!

I've been learning new and whizbang ways to format posts, and while I've created a page that will help someone that wants to try it, which is Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's, you cannot tell much from that page about how it'll look in a post. So, I'm gonna use some of the tricks here to see how they look.First, an "ordered list": First itemSecond itemThird itemNext, an "unordered list": First itemSecond itemThird itemWhat if we wanted some words to be green and others to be red and still others to be blue? Perhaps we want to show text that has been deleted? Or text that should be underlined? Maybe text that has been inserted into a block of text? (Looks just like underlined.) Highlighted text? Text that is no longer correct? Small text? Strong text? 22=4 Subscripted text? I'll try some more later, but that's all for now.

Another thought - I gave a guy from church the 1356 that was on Huck. It obviously has the right outputs for the front and rear to take these driveshafts. I'm thinking about seeing if I can buy it back. Would want to have it gone through like the last one, but it sure simplifies the driveshaft situation.Thoughts? (Btw, what do you think of the color? )

Frame-off restorations might be ok. But they frequently turn into restomod's, and those can get expensive. And never-ending. (Don't ask. )

All - I've revised the Driveline/Driveshaft section by eliminating 11 of the pages that were nested under Driveshaft and moving Rear Axle Vents to Driveline/Axles & Differentials where it should have been all along. (Don't worry, I've created 301 re-directs for those 11 such that any links that are out there, including on any search engine, will still be valid but will take you to the Driveshaft page.) I think that has significantly simplified that area as well as provided more information. Thanks for your help. Grumpin - Ok, thanks. But let's take the driveshaft/t-case discussion over to Dad's Truck Build.

You might already see this, but if you extend the boom on that engine hoist far enough to reach the transmission past the engine you are likely to have the cg of the whole shootin' match past the wheels on the hoist, which would not be good for the finish! You can still do it, but you might want to pile some bags of sandblasting media on the other end.Bob - Good point. I've been known to use blast media as ballast. However, in this case it won't be needed. As you can see below, I have the front of the truck on jack stands, which gives ~2" of clearance between the bottom of the diff and the legs of the crane. So I can pull the legs out the whole way, which puts the front wheels past the hook on the boom. And, on other aspects of this quest, I pulled the driveshafts out that came on Huck. Unfortunately the rear shaft uses a slip yoke and I had the BW1356 set up with a yoke for a u-joint, which is what Dad's NP208 has. So, do I have the original NP208 rebuilt, which will require having the small crack welded up, convert the 1356 to slip yoke, or find another driveshaft that is the right length? Thoughts? And, to finish the saga on painting the tie rods and front sway bar, I gave them another coat of the chassis black top coat today, which was well within the 72-hour window. But there were still lots of streaks, brush marks, etc. So I grabbed a can of Rustoleum Satin Black and sprayed them while the top coat was still tacky. Fixed the streak problem and appears to have helped with the brush marks. We shall see. But, I think that will be my approach in the future when using POR15 - use the base coat and then spray it while the base coat is tacky. Far, far easier.

Good luck. Has it been giving you problems any more?

That would depend on where the leak is from. What I remember is that the case is all plastic, so if it has cracked you may have a hard time getting any glue or epoxy to stick. You'd have to clean it really well and make sure that no power steering fluid comes back through the crack before the glue sets. It may not be worth it if you are upgrading. But, how bad is the leak?

Grumpin - I'll keep my eyes open for where I saw, or think I saw, that the 460's didn't get a 208. Bill - I found what I think are the right driveshafts in the application listing: Front: E9TZ 4A376-B Rear: E9TZ 4602-E But, oddly enough, I can't find those in the crossreference where the lengths are shown. Its as if the application page is a later edition than the crossref. And, I pulled the driveshafts out that came on Huck. Unfortunately the rear shaft uses a slip yoke and I had the BW1356 set up with a yoke for a u-joint, which is what Dad's NP208 has. So, do I have the NP208 rebuilt, including having the small crack welded up, convert the 1356 to slip yoke, or find another driveshaft that is the right length?

Bill - That looks longer than my HF one, which is only 22" long and has a off-set of 9". And, at first blush, I don't think that's enough to compensate for a 22" long engine and a 30" long tranny - from the front face to the rear mount.But, I have worked out that I could pick the tranny up with the crane and suspend it from the powder coating cart using ratchet straps. Then pick up the engine/flywheel/torque converter combo, maybe using 7/16" bolts into the heads f/r and balance that with the load balancer. Then mate it to the tranny and use a couple of ratchet straps for safety to hook into the rear of the tranny where the t-case mounts and balance things using the straps and the load balancer. Having said that, I've also worked out that I can lay the parts in piecemeal. In the pic below the crane's boom is all the way in, meaning to the left, and the hook is directly above the engine mounts, which are essentially at the mid-point of the engine. So I could lay the engine in easily with the crane in that position, prop it up, and then add the flywheel and torque converter. And, I can extend the boom and/or roll the crane forward and the end of the boom could be up to 42" further to the rear - which puts it directly over where I think the transmission mount will go. And that's clearly well past the center of gravity for the transmission. In other words, there's plenty of "reach" to allow lowering the tranny behind the engine and then bringing it forward to mate with the engine. I know some of you think I need to put the engine/flywheel/torque converter/tranny combo in as a unit. And while it looks like I can do that, I don't see the advantage of that versus placing things in a piece at a time. In fact, I see disadvantages as the heavier the load is the harder it is to precisely locate the crane. But I'm very willing to listen if you see something I don't see. What am I missing?

Jeff - There are hoses from the tanks to the hard lines, and if you have two tanks there are hoses from the hard lines to the switching valve and then again back to the hard lines. I've seen those hoses so porous that they'll leak gas though the sides of the hose, and air into the system when the truck is running - or trying to run. That air leakage will kill the vacuum the pump uses to pull fuel. So I'd check those hoses for leakage. And, I see two gas cans in the back of the truck. If you run a hose from the inlet of the fuel pump to one of those sitting on the ground the pump should pull the gas and prove the pump is good.

Jeff - Welcome! Hampton Roads, huh? You are a close neighbor to Vinny and a not too-distant neighbor to Bill. You can see that on our member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd like. Good project truck. Is the 351W a 2bbl or 4bbl? You'll want to start a thread about it in the main section.

Go up a page or two and notes 63 and 64 are there. Glad you like the new approach.

I'm not saying this is the only or best way to do it; only that it's an option for you to consider. But you COULD set the trans in the frame (on a 2x4 at the front) bolted to the crossmember, whose ends are padded with cardboard. Then bring the engine in, bolt it to the bellhousing, then set it onto the frame perches, sliding the crossmember as needed. Then remove the pads, drill the holes (if necessary), and bolt the Xmbr in. Steve & Jonathan - You both seem to think that I either need the tranny attached to the engine or need to get it in the truck first, before the engine. That seems to be telling me that you think I'll have problems getting the tranny in after the engine is in place. Right? If so, then I need to do some serious measuring. Perhaps I can this afternoon after/before church and after getting another coat on the parts being painted. For this exercise the cab will be way up on the lift, so we will have access from the front and the driver's side. But the crane has a limit of how far it can go towards the rear with the boom fully extended, so I'd better check that out to ensure I can get the tranny over the engine and then behind it. Steve - I'd rather not slide the crossmember on the frame as it'll scratch both of them. But I could remove the mount and put a 2x4 at both the front and the rear, sufficiently padded, and that might not scratch things. But, if I can lay the engine in and come over it with the tranny and have plenty of clearance, then I won't have to slide anything. Jonathan - One worry I have is that Tim has a lift plate screwed into the carb mount. It is obviously adequate for the engine as he's already lifted it that way. But I am leery of adding the weight of the transmission, flex plate, and torque converter to that. I could use chains to the front and rear of the engine, but that risks scratching something. Or, I could use ratchet straps, both front and rear, to take the load of the tranny up to the load equalizer and keep the weight off the four little 1/4" bolts that go into an aluminum intake. Guys - Thanks for helping me think through this. I really do appreciate it. Please keep those ideas coming.

Oh, so disconnecting at the VSS lets you pull the cable, and therefore the cluster, further out in order to get your hand back there to disconnect. Good idea!

Bill - I think the penny just dropped. You said " there are notes that don't exist", and I was looking at the Notes column and checking to see if there's a number in there that isn't included at the bottom of the page. Instead, I think you meant that your truck doesn't exist in the listing. That it just says "85" and not "85/86" in the row where your truck should be. What I can do is edit the page and make it show "85/86" if you can confirm that the rest of the info in that row is correct for Darth. I know you said in another post that you are going to be busy, so that may not happen soon. I am going to be busy as of tomorrow with Janey's recovery, so understand. Just check it out when you can, please. All - No one has said that they dislike the new approach. In fact, no one has even mentioned the approach, just the details. But, the details are directly from the MPC. So while we can edit the details if they are wrong, as discussed with Bill, I'm also concerned with how the new approach works. I need to eliminate the old pages (actually redirect their URL's to the new page) if we agree that's the way to go.

I run the 750 Eddy on Big Blue, but recently built a 1406 for my brother's little 350 in his '55 and decided to run it on BB for a test. It was stock and it ran great. In fact, as I told him, if it wasn't destined for his engine I might have left it on. In my case I liked the choke at about the index. But that varies by engine. And I do not like using manifold vacuum to my vacuum advance. I like "ported vacuum", which is probably the one you capped. That port only gives vacuum after you start to open the throttle, and especially with an automatic tranny (your sig doesn't say what you have) that's important. Ignition advance can be in the range of 6 - 12 degrees BTDC, and that depends on whether you have EGR and what your distributor's advance curve is like. But it is limited by spark knock under part-throttle with a load if you have too much advance. So maybe start at 8 or 10? As for the idle speed, I like mine more like 650 or 700 RPM. And you get there by iterating between adjusting the idle mix screws and the idle speed screws. Adjust the mix screws 1/4 turn at a time, probably out if you are starting at 2 turns, to get higher RPM/vacuum. Alternate back and forth between sides. You are looking for max RPM or vacuum, which is the same thing, but while keeping the R's down around the 650 - 800 range with the idle speed screw. And a good vacuum range is about 20" at idle. But that depends on the cam you have. More aggressive cams drop the vacuum, while a stock cam usually gives about 20 - 22".

If I weren't installing EFI on Big Blue I'd do that, for sure.

Yippee!!! Glad you got it going. One layer of the onion peeled, more to go.

You use a digital voltmeter and check the voltage as shown in pic below, which is from the the link above. I believe that Vref is the orange/white wire, Signal Voltage will be the dark green/light green wire, and Ground is the black/white wire. You will have to guestimate the angle, but if I'm right the TPS is going "open", meaning not providing an output or signal voltage just off idle. So I wouldn't worry about making sure that the signal voltage is spot-on at all the angles. Instead I would concentrate on what happens as you open the throttle. Does the voltage increase smoothly or does it go to zero and then come back at some point? This is Page 57 from the 1986 EVTM, and you can see the TPS at the top left.

Yes, I do as well. Dad's truck is a long, slooooow, slog. So I have to hit it hard for a while, then put it away for a bit and get something else done, and then come back to it. Otherwise I'd burn out.

The only way I know to do it is to open the thread in two tabs, hit Reply to the two different posts, hit Quote to them, and then copy the quote text from one to the other.

I agree that it shows either the 1345 or 1356. And I can't seem to prove it from the Transfer Case page, but I am pretty sure that all 460's got the 1345 or 1356. As per the discussion on Dad's Truck Build, the NP208 and the BW1345 are interchangeable. Any chance yours has been changed out?

You are now on the map. My advice is to NEVER buy something that you pull out of a field, or something that can't be driven to test it. That is, unless you are buying it to part out. And, if you are looking for something to drive, then buy one near the top of what you'd be willing to pay. It is always less expensive to buy it that way than to put it that way. (Notice I didn't say "cheaper" as there's nothing cheap about fixing up an old truck.) The best bet is to find one that is currently being driving daily, or almost daily. Those typically don't have the problems that cause you to break down along the road when driving it home.