Gary Lewis

Wow, $2500 the way she sat is a pretty good deal for you. I sold a good running 4wd F150 w/a 351M and C6 for ~$3000 a couple of years ago. But you are probably right that it would be less expensive as well as much easier to sell this truck and buy what you are looking for. However, I'd drive this truck for a while as what you think you want might change over time.

I'm not sure what you are doing wrong, but here's how I just added your pics to this post: Right-clicked on your links, one at a time, and clicked Copy Link Address, which puts the link on the clipboardClicked the Insert Image button aboveIn the pop-up that appears I pasted the link into the "Or copy an image from the internet". BUT, you must wipe out the http:// that is already there.Click Insert Image But, your last four files are over the 1MB limit that this site will load, so while I left the Resize radio button on None for all the others, on the list four I selected Big Size so the site will reduce the size. And, you can see that those pics present smaller, though still big enough. Also note that several of your pics are rotated incorrectly. Most sites don't have the smarts to read the metadata encoded in the picture to find the orientation and rotate it properly. So you will need to rotate those pics in a picture editor to get them to present correctly here. However, many editors will automatically rotate an image on opening, so if you save it then it will have been corrected.

Oh, I missed this. Oh, I missed this. We have lived in many places: Wichita, KS; Ponca City, OK; London, England; Houston, Texas; Wilmington, DE; Chicago, IL; and finally Skiatook, OK. I say finally because I do not intend to move again, although some year the kids will move us to a rest home. But hopefully not for many years as I way too much stuff I want to do, places I want to see, etc.

Well, I spent the day working on WelderScott's truck, as you will have seen in WHYDTYTT, and it looks like y'all worked out the issues on the wiring. Well done!

Glad you started a thread on your truck. But, you had lots of questions. Let's see if I can answer some: EOTZ 3790-B fits 19890 - 89 E-F-U100/350,FfSuper Duty) - - w/M/T & w/fixed wheel Spectra is a decent brand of cooling system parts Luk is a good brand of clutch Swapping to A/C on a non-A/C truck is a big pain unless you have the High/Low Vent heater system, and in your pics I don't see vents in the dash so don't think you do. You can check out Dave/FuzzFace2's thread where he replaced half of the firewall to get A/C. But if it were me I'd consider aftermarket. A 4 or 5-speed OD transmission is certainly an option. There are several, such as the SROD, M5OD, and ZF5. From what I've read, and there's been discussion of this lately, the M5OD might be the best bet for a light-duty truck, and the ZF5 for a heavier-duty truck.

So, WHIDTYTT? Started Big Blue and got him out of the shop and around to the trailer so I could get the trailer out to go get the '65 Malibu on Tuesday. But Janey's cousin called the outing off until September, so there's no need to move the trailer. Another reason to move BB was so Scott/WelderScott could bring his '78 over for some work. He'd said that he sometimes has the death wobble, and in an effort to fix that he's replaced the ball joints, tie rods, and steering box. That helped but it didn't fix it, so I suggested we replace the Insulators (front susoension radius arm axle end), as Ford calls them. His truck has a D44 solid front axle, not TTB's, and coil springs. So in addition to the bushings/insulators on the rear of the radius arms, which are forged by the way, he has them on the front where they meet the axle. I've circled all of that in the illustration below. And, here's a pic of Scott with the truck as we were working on it: It took us about 4 hours to do the driver's side, but more like 2 hours to do the passenger's side. Or maybe less as we learned how not to do it very well. But, was it successful? Here's his text after just a short drive: So, while that doesn't mean the death wobble is gone, I think it probably is.

That was quite a day, Dave! Glad you persevered in in spite of the recalcitrant primer gun. Has it really been a year since you took pics? Wow! That's a loooong time. Good to see the truck out in the sunlight. On the dash pad, wouldn't a hot iron stick to the hot-melt glue? Or vice versa? Or do you put a piece of something over it to prevent sticking? If so, hot-melt might work.

Wow, Cory, well done!!! I really like it. But at the rate you are going you'll have it on the road very soon. However, there is no reason to rush. The fun is in the journey, not the destination.

Looks like a good plan to me. But I'm not sure you can't use the E4OD's crossmember from the '96. I used a '90 E4OD crossmember in Dad's truck. It didn't bolt right in, but you can see for yourself how it fit in Dad's Truck Build thread here. But your truck is a 2wd - right? I ask because if it is a 4wd there's a possibility that with the E4OD's extra 7" of length the transfer case may hit the floor.

No, it isn't likely you'd get that response here. We try to help each other and may point out issues with their plans, but we don't usually poo poo them.

Wow, that's good info!

I was raised in Kansas, in which the marker for the geographic center of the lower 48 states resides. We considered ourselves Mid-westerners. But people talk about Chicago as being "mid-west"? Anyway, computer crashes are a huge pain. Hope you get the data back.

There should be a certification label on the cab close to the door striker on the driver's side. That will have the VIN and other details showing what the truck was equipped with originally. Or a picture of the shifter stick and/or the shifter knob, and we can tell what transmission it is. The floor shift trucks were all 4spds...that came in a few different configurations...with a very low first and a 1:1 4th, OR with an overdrive, etc. The certification label on the door post will look like the one shown here, and decoding instructions are included: Specifications/Certification Label.

Is that why we are sometimes called rednecks? Seriously though, most of what I've read about fitment problems has been the factory window and aftermarket seals. At least I think that's the case. But let's see what the others have to say.

No, the folks at oilburners are partial to their diesels and probably wouldn't appreciate the idea of swapping a gas engine in for a diesel. But if you don't like the diesel and have a donor truck with a good driveline and terminal rust, then why not. On the Arduino, I've already written the sketch and run it on a simulator. It functions perfectly. And while the 2N2222 transistor would work well, I was wanting to use a shield that would handle that function w/o having to do much wiring. And, I do plan to run a display with the Arduino. I intend to use a radio bezel from a medium-duty truck that has room for switches and a readout at the top. The switches will run things like the on-board air compressor, additional lighting, OX locker, etc. And the readout will provide info on battery voltage, air pressure, etc. And, it'll also be used if a parameter that is being monitored goes out of specs, like battery voltage, oil pressure, coolant temp, etc. But I hadn't thought about the diode on the gauge. That's a good idea. Here's a shot of the radio bezel I intend to use:

All of your posts have been in the "New Members Start Here" folder and in your "New member with a question" thread. But troubleshooting or documenting your truck is best done in the main section called Bullnose Enthusiasts. More people will see it and stop to help you there. But you are replying via email rather than following the link in the email which takes you to the forum. So you can't really tell where you are going. Try clicking on the link that looks like http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/New-member-with-a-question-tp31322p31358.html and then post in there. If you don't have speed control, 4wd, or any of the other things served by Fuse 6 you can use that and install a bigger fuse. However the white/pink wire for it isn't really big enough to support the heater blower, so you'll want to pull the fuse box out far enough to turn it over and replace the small wire with a larger one. I have a fuse box out so I'll see if I can get some pics of the backside of it tomorrow and post them. That might help you understand how to work with it.

Hank - I'm going to include to illustrations from the 1986 EVTM (Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM) below. They may help. First is the layout of the fuse panel from the page on Fuse Panel & Circuit Protection. What fuses aren't you using? Speed control? Note that it also powers the feedback carb if you have one of those. And then here's the circuit diagram for the fuse panel from the page on Charge & Power Distribution - Gasoline Engines.

Yes, sometimes it is easier to orient the phone "properly" than to edit the pic for orientation. You should be able to find a column at a salvage eventually. But the floor-shift ones aren't plentiful. However, you can use a column-shift unit and it'll work. In fact, you can take the shift lever off and fill the hole and make it look very good. I think Pete of Pete's Ponies did that recently. As for the cylinder, I think that was Jim/ArdWrknTrk.

I plan to use an Arduino, as explained in this thread: Bricknose Sender To Bullnose Gauge. Maybe we can collaborate on this?

Yes, I can see what that is going. The 4.9 is an excellent engine, and with the E4OD it'll also return good MPG. But, there are some issues you'll have to address. One is the fuel system and associated gauge. In the Bullnose era the sending units were about 10 ohms full to 72 ohms empty. But in '87 that changed with the range being very different AND it is backwards. I'm planning to address that issue by way of a small microprocesser which will translate from the later model sender to the Bullnose gauge. But if you don't want to do that you'll have to use a Bullnose sender in the tank. EDIT: You are on the map.

As my wife would readily tell you, I may be nearly 50 years old but I still have the sophisticated sense of humor of a pre-teen. So sure, I was serious about suggesting the poop emoji, but if it's not in keeping with the tone of the establishment I'm hardly going to complain. Ok Matthew, just for you we have poo: (Get it? It rhymes. I'm a poet and my feet show it - they are longfellows. ) And, we lost Pirate.

Did a safety upgrade today. Realized that my drawbar and 2 5/16" ball were rated at 7500 lbs, which seems a bit light when the trailer is rated for 14,000 lbs. So I bought a new drawbar rated at 16,000 lbs and a ball at 14,000 lbs. Granted that's more than the receiver hitch is rated for, but at least the weak link isn't the ball or the drawbar. The trip on Tuesday is still questionable, so I don't know for sure when I'll use the new items. But at least I have them.

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined and that you think this is the place for you. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on the map if I had a town/city. And I'm curious what your plans are for the truck. And, what it looks like. Pics?

I hadn't made the connection, but .

Nice truck! You've just discovered one of the problems with this, and many other, forums - they don't have the smarts to read the metadata that most cameras encode in the picture file that tells the camera's orientation when the shot was taken. The way around it is to open the pic in a picture editing package, which usually reads the metadata, and then properly orients the pic. Then save it again. That usually fixes the problem. If not, you can open the pic and rotate it manually and then save it. On the steering column, maybe you can get things working properly and then decide how to replace that broken part. One of the issues is that the columns without a shift lever are hard to find. In fact we just had another member resort to patching his because he couldn't find the replacement part.