Gary Lewis

In the dark is the perfect time to check spark. I've seen the whole engine bay look like a circus. And you might try squirting water on it to see what happens.

But boost is fun..... Well, I will be driving Gary's 3.5L Ecoboost 2015, so perhaps I will find out? If you find out that "boost is fun" while driving Blue you'll lose the competition then and there. But, boost IS fun! Man, Blue can be FAST! And it can TOW! It made the 200 mile trip on Saturday so easy. Going over pulling the empty trailer at 70 MPH on the turnpike it only downshifted out of 6th for a hill once, and there are many big hills. And it got mid-14's doing it. Coming back I locked it out of 6th and it handled the car and trailer so easily, and still got about 11 MPG running 70. But, I filled it up with 91 octane for that trip, and it was almost dry when I filled up. It probably still has 20 gallons of that mix in the 34 gallon tank, so when we fill up with 87 octane Blue is still going to be sipping high test. And that gives it a bit of a boost on MPG, although not a lot in a non-towing mode.

Oh, I missed the radio question. No, I was WA0FFF back in the day. But when I got married I didn't want to sit in a room by myself talking to others instead of my wife, so I gave it up. Now I sit on the couch next to my wife and type to others.

That's really good stuff, and deserves to be on a page in the documentation. If you can add some more bits in this thread then when you think you have everything then I can consolidate it to one page. And things that would help include a source/example for the silicone tape. Definition of what you mean by a "mechanical splice". On the lacing, are you using one wrap and tying it? What knot? (I think you said above, but I lost it.) Lots of little details that all add up to a great page on how to do wiring.

So we were talking about this license plate light previously since it appears to be the same as the one used on the Flareside, except it is black. I see there are several listed on Ebay now as fitting Rangers. Can anybody confirm? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Ford-License-Plate-Light-Lamp-Assembly-E1FZ-13550-A-Ranger-1989-1997/153535256710?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 You out there Ron? Dave?...it looks the same, ya? I don't need one, but others might... And the MPC says: D7AZ 13550-A 80/88 F100/150(83) 87/A E1FZ 13550-A #Painted argent 83/ R(99) — w/std. bumper or w/o bumper So, the "correct" one for the Flaresides is also the one for Aerostars from 1987 through at least 1989 when my catalog stops. But that doesn't mean that the one for the Ranger won't work. However, that part was not engineered for the Ranger. I say that for two reasons: First, it was engineered in 1981, before the Ranger came out. Second, the "F" means it was for a car. So I turned to the 1980-89 car MPC, and lo and behold I found this: W (ESCORT). MW (LYNX) 81/82 W, MW "BEFORE 4/82" ElFZ 13550-A So it was made to go on a 1981 or 1982 (built before 4/82) Escort or Lynx.

Glad you found it, Ron!

You can test the spark's color by pulling a plug wire and sticking an old plug in and laying it on the block. You are checking for a white or blue spark. Anything less is bad.

I have the '83 exterior color chip chart here: Documentation/Literature/1983 Literature/1983 FORD LIGHT TRUCK EXTERIOR COLOR SELECTIONS. But, what I saw on my screens, plural, after scanning that in was not what I saw when holding it in my hand. And there's no way what you see on your screen(s) will be correct. So if you are basing your color choice on something like that you need to buy a chip chart and work from that. They aren't expensive. Or work from the paint codes, which are shown here: Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes. As for interior colors, I don't have them in a chip chart. In fact, I'm not sure one of those exists. But I do have them listed here: Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint. And SEM has paint to match those colors. However, it is not off-the-shelf paint - you'll have to have it mixed. Please let us know what you figure out.

What is the difference in these coils? When I converted the old 240 straight six to electronic ignition I left the old coil on it. I just now changed the coil in my ‘81 to a threaded lug unit that I asked for as a 1966 F100 spec and it runs as it did before. If it is bad for some reason I will change back. The update is that the new coil and new ignition module made zero change. It is still rough, especially under load and has no power. Rough under load could be spark, but it could be fuel. Have you put a spark tester on to see what color the spark is? If it is spark, it could be the wires. Under load the pressure goes up in the cylinders and that makes it harder to jump the gap in the plugs. So the voltage builds and sometimes finds another way to ground - out of the wire. And you've not changed out the pickup in the dizzy? But your fuel pump could be failing. Less likely than spark, but a possibility.

She is a most excellent grandmother. And, as she told me today, "I only have two grandchildren, and your mother is too old to give me any more so I have to be careful with the ones I have." Cue offended screeching from mom - but since we were all there today for her 73rd birthday... (That's grandma on the left) And, good job with Dominic. Shame he can't come with you. But it looks like the truck is ready. Can't wait, Matthew! I'm really looking forward to it - it's been a while since I've gotten to do a solo road trip. And while Dominic is coming along well on his automotive skills, he still lacks appreciation for classic iron - he'd be miserable at a truck show. So, your mother is basically the same age I am. (And that of another frequent poster on here, but I won't mention Bill's name. ) Cool! Anyway, I understand solo road trips. But, there's no one to keep you awake, so please be careful.

I'll take your word for it, Bill. Haven't had it off for yonks.

Hey, that's my name! (And if you don't believe me, check my sig.) So, Grandma approves, with reservations. Sounds like she cares. And, good job with Dominic. Shame he can't come with you. But it looks like the truck is ready. Can't wait, Matthew!

I've never heard a coil slosh. I think that one may be suspect. I'd take that one back and see if the others they have slosh. But if it is still running rough you have other problems. I'm guessing the module/ICM is the issue.

Bill - He said it was 360 HP, but I didn't pop the hood and don't know what carb it has. He's not sure what he wants to do with the engine, but it will surely be rebuilt, and they'll obviously have to figure out what heads it has in order to figure out the compression ratio. This one has a manual tranny and 12-bolt behind it. Was originally an SS w/a 327, so I'm guessing he just used that tranny.

Sounds like a plan, Stan.

Cool!! Loving it, Dave. As for protecting the nuts and bolts, I use electrical tape on the flats and pick a socket that fits tightly. Then once the fasteners are torqued down I repaint the threads and any damage done by squirting rattle can paint in the cap and using a Q-tip as the brush.

That's a great resource Gary. People do go looking for this info from time to time.

No problem here Gary, it's just a snip from the 1984 manual. There's one for the 300 as well. I didn't think that the routing mattered much, but I remember wondering about it myself when putting my engine back in, and I've seen others ask as well. Cory - Check out the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Heater Hoses.

I got info back from Zach 1981 Flareside and updated the page at Documenation/Exterior/Beds, Tailgates, & Components. Then tab Beds, then Flareside Beds, then Prior to 7/82. Let me know what you think.

that is awesome they travelled to the US for a truck show! i have plans in the future to visit the US if i can convince he other half i would love to attend a truck show possibly even fill a suitcase or 5 with some parts! . thanks rouge! i do have plans for a Barra swap, long term goals are something along the lines of a pro touring/sleeperish style truck, frame swap/build, barra turbo, coilovers, brakes, cage, buckets something i can drive on the street and also take to the track/strip and chop the usual built cars.il be keeping this truck for a vey long time if not pass it down. but for now though its just get it driving and enjoy it while i sort the house/garage and kids. adult life:nabble_smiley_cry: They didn't travel to the States just for the show. They were planning to come and adjusted their schedule (or is that "shedule"?) to match up with the show. The show is held the 3rd Saturday in September, so you can plan around it. Would love to have you come! And Darin did fill a suitcase and then some with parts. I was parting out a '90 and the cab was going to scrap, so he asked me for part of the roof. When he got here we cut out the section he wanted and he then boxed it up and had it shipped back.

Yes, a lower brick driven by three speeds is still a brick with a fast-spinning engine. While there may be a slight improvement, it'll be so small that the wind direction will mask it. In the case of Blue I have a 2015 F150 with soft suspension but with the Max Tow package. That gets the better axle ratio and better axle in the rear and the GCWR is ~12,000 #. But you can't really tow what it is rated for if it is bumper pull as you'll have more tongue weight than the springs like. So you either need a weight distribution hitch or air springs. And the folks I've talked to say the latter in a 2000 # rating work very well. In the case of Big Blue, I have the same 7-leaf rear spring pack on my regular cab F250 as Bill does on his crew cab F350. Serious overkill and brutal ride. So I want to take leaves out to improve the ride but shore up with air bags for when I do carry a serious load.

Guess that is what im getting at, granted you couldn't really hurt the mpgs any worse. Someone recently said our trucks are like the proverbial barn door. No they are not. They are worse! Barn doors don't have the pockets, like the headlights, that hold air. But don't the visors have vents on top?

Yes, a how-to with pics would be good. Especially since I'm not following everything you are saying. Part of it is that I don't understand the terminology. Part of it is a lack of experience. Anyway, I do solder - everything. Been doing that since I was an amateur radio operator in high school in the early 60's. And I use adhesive-lined heat shrink. But I'm new to lacing as well as that sleeve. Instead I've used tie wraps and the convolute. But I'd like to learn about the lacing and sleeve.

You are now on the map. And, by the way, if you click on someone's pin in the map you'll have the option of emailing that person. So you can easily email Darin. And, by the way, one year ago yesterday he was sitting beside me here in the house. He and his wife, as well as Ken and his wife from New Zealand, had come over and were here for the truck show.

Could you give us a source for things like high temp expando sleeving, lacing tie, etc? I'm doing a MAJOR electrical revision on Big Blue (EEC-V EFI with the underhood power distribution box, 3G, Arduino, etc) and would like to do it "right". In fact, if you'd be interested in doing a how-to on splicing wire and using the expando sleeving and lacing tie I'd be thrilled to put up a page on it. The best approach is if you send me a Word doc as well as the pics in an email. (Pulling pics out of a Word doc has been a problem for me.)